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Official Rapid Bike Race Group Buy!


CandyRedRC46

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Hey guys,

One of the best shops in my home town Orlando, just became the official Dimsport Rapid Bike dealer of North America. I stopped by the other day to check out the shop and inquire about tuning my Rapid Bike 2 and other general moto talk. I showed the owner my bike and everything that that I have done to it. I told him about my quarter mile times and that there are many other people that would love to have rapid bike products on their vfr800's as well, but there is nothing available for us...

So he got in contact with dimsport and they said all we need is 10 people to put down a deposit on just the harness and they will release the Evo and Race modules for VFR800 use!!!!

Guys this is VERY VERY powerful technology! The Evo module is fully capable of auto tuning the fuel map with the factory o2 sensors. The race module is capable of doing this as well plus it has the ability to tune the ignition timing as well.

I will be first to put down a deposit so we just need 9 more people in line and we can make this happen!!!

I will post more information on actual pricing and all of the features of the Dimsport Rapid Bike Race and Evo modules later on tonight!

Thanks for your time guys! Let's make this happen!!!!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

http://www.dimsport.com/rapidbike/

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I forgot to post up a picture of the new quickshifter. Its a really cool set up. Its fully adjustable for amount of force required to initiate the shift. It came set up at 12 kilograms. That felt a little too hard so I backed it down to 11kg and it feels much better.

Also I made it out to Orlando speed world dragway last night. Put a hurting on a gsxr1000, 2 cbr1000's and a ninja 636. Still can't beat the stretched hyabusas though lol.

10.87 at 125 is really fast for this weather. Were gonna be breaking into the 130s when it starts getting cold.

0 to 103 mph in 7 seconds.... NICE!!!

Great 1/4 run!!! I was waiting to see some results from your install... is this before the bored throttle body install?

Did you install the TuneMyBike module and how long have you let it auto adjust?

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I haven't put in the o2 sensors or throttle bodies yet. This is just with the supplied base ignition and fuel maps. I must say. It feels pretty strong lol. The fueling is pretty damn good too.

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I haven't put in the o2 sensors or throttle bodies yet. This is just with the supplied base ignition an fuel maps. I must say. It feels pretty strong lol. The fueling is pretty damn good too.

Did I see that you grounded yours next to the brake reservoir, or is that something else?

The ground wire looks like a stretch to make it to the battery from that spot.

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Yes the ground wire is the single black wire with the loop. I have it grounded to the brake reservoir because that is wire I had my old pc3 and rb2 grounded to. That seems to be the easiest and cleanest installation spot but really you can ground it to anywhere within a foot or so of where you decide to mount the rapid bike module. I'll measure the exact length of the ground wire when I get home.

post-17122-1413245674829.png

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Any ride reports yet with the new module?

I've only been able to put about 10 miles on mine so far, noticeable power increase though.

V-tec transition was smooth, throttle engagement coming off idle was a bit abrupt though.

Looking forward to a good ride to get the adaptive tuning fed some data.

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Thanks, no need to measure it, I used the same grounding point and all is well.

Just need some dry weather now...

443ffb345a0fa1c6bac447611749bf8e.jpg7ec216b5ca556e4e9d41750de1a97b23.jpg

Confirmed it will reach the battery ground easily.

Any ride reports yet with the new module?

I've only been able to put about 10 miles on mine so far, noticeable power increase though.

V-tec transition was smooth, throttle engagement coming off idle was a bit abrupt though.

Looking forward to a good ride to get the adaptive tuning fed some data.

If you want to lessen the off idle throttle response, you can zero out the 5 and 10 percent throttle columns of the ignition map that are close to idle. That will make it behave more like factory off of idle.

8ab2c6c74b1e93a837c9d6a13a98116a.jpg

You see those all the cells in the 5% column from 2500-4000 rpms? Those 2 - 3 and 4 degrees of ignition advance are that dramatic off idle throttle response that you are feeling. If you subtract a degree or two there it will soften up a bit.

I actually like it and went in to the accelerator pump feature and added some fuel and ignition on there. It revs up race bike fast now.

That and I have been playing with the engine braking feature too. I'm going to go put some miles on it today and see how dramatic the change is.

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I just got mine installed. Running the branch down to the O2 sensors was a royal pain in the ass to squeeze it by everything. Off to the store to get some zip ties to make everything look nice and tidy and then put the body work back on. I did start it up and everything works so that's good. Hopefully the weather will be nice enough Friday I'll be able to take it out for a spin.

Nick

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Got everything in and the software running on the computer in the garage and they are talking to each other. Now all I have to do is figure out what everything is. Never really played with a dynojet either. PCV was on the bike when I bought it. Is there any kind of a tuning tutorial anywhere that anyone knows of?

Nick

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Got everything in and the software running on the computer in the garage and they are talking to each other. Now all I have to do is figure out what everything is. Never really played with a dynojet either. PCV was on the bike when I bought it. Is there any kind of a tuning tutorial anywhere that anyone knows of?

Nick

First lesson... leave it alone and go ride! If you've got the O2 sensors hooked up it will start auto adjusting. Make a copy of the base maps and save them then go ride... my advice, don't start tweaking things in there if you don't know what your doing... the guys who made it are pretty sharp and got it close to right

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Just got home from a 200km ride and wow :-)

I did notice that jerking between 3000-4000 in first aswell, might have to take off the ignition as CR said.

Just wondering if any ideas on mounting the usb somewhere other than under the seat. PITA to take seat off every time I wanna hook the puta up. I was thinking of that little notch on the right hand side of the seat fearing.

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I was thinking about that too.

P.S. on a side note, our bikes do not like the ignition advance correction pump feature. I added 3 degrees of ignition timing advance on the accelerator pump and it was almost unrideable. So then I backed off to just one degree and it was almost perfect, but I found that if I wacked the throttle open at 7000 in top gear it will buck and cut bad. So I zero'd out the ignition portion of the accelerator pump. I did set the fuel adjustment of that feature to 20% and it feels good. I'm going to go put some miles on it now.

JUST TO REITERATE. DO NOT TOUCH THE IGNITION ON THE ACCELERATOR PUMP.

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Got everything in and the software running on the computer in the garage and they are talking to each other. Now all I have to do is figure out what everything is. Never really played with a dynojet either. PCV was on the bike when I bought it. Is there any kind of a tuning tutorial anywhere that anyone knows of?

Nick

First lesson... leave it alone and go ride! If you've got the O2 sensors hooked up it will start auto adjusting. Make a copy of the base maps and save them then go ride... my advice, don't start tweaking things in there if you don't know what your doing... the guys who made it are pretty sharp and got it close to right

That's what I plan on doing. Saved the original map. Found that out the hardway on my PCV. Lost the original map that was in it when I got the bike.

Just looking at the features tho... Engine braking, accelerator pump, etc. I don't plan on screwing things up but I want to learn on how to do things with the software for future use...\

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Its been said that we shouldn't play with the ignition map. So I was just thinking with the 3000-4000 jerks, what is the diff between taking 1% OUT of the ignition or ADDING 1 to the fuel map?

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Its been said that we shouldn't play with the ignition map. So I was just thinking with the 3000-4000 jerks, what is the diff between taking 1% OUT of the ignition or ADDING 1 to the fuel map?

They are totally different things, to much ignition advance will destroy your engine. To much fuel will do the same but take a very long time. I will make the assumption having just got mine in the UK today & looking at the install pics, that Dimsport got an example Vtec in & ran it on a dyno to find the maximum SAFE setting for the ignition where it is advanced & the best power setting where it is retarded higher in the rev range.

So my advice is DO NOT advance the ignition unless you have the means to detect engine knock or pinking as its sometimes called.

If you get bad hesitation, or bucking retard the ignition first if that does not cure it it may need the fuelling tweaked.

First & foremost if YOU do NOT fully understand these settings, do NOT mess with them, it could prove VERY expensive ! You have been warned.

It's a pity that Dimsport has NOT provided any details of the setup they supplied & how it was obtained, dyno/road testing, what grade fuel they were using, all of these have a bearing on the performance. The standard European unleaded fuel is 95RON, about the same as 87MON or 91PON in the USA. Our Super Unleaded or higher octane fuel is 97/98RON about the same as 90MONor 94PON in the USA, so you don't need to use anything better than 91PON in USA (not sure what standard or Pump numbers Australia use), as you will NOT gain anything from it.

See here http://thoms1.net/Ford/Reference/RONMONPON.html

Higher octane rating fuel does NOT improve knock resistance, it provides the same level of resistance under DIFFERENT (as in higher compression or higher load) situations. I suspect Dimsport used regular european unleaded 95RON/87MON/91PON. So the use of anything higher will just cost you MONEY for the fuel.

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Thanks Mohawk, when you say 'tweaking the fuel' would that be + / - .

Regular is 91RON

high is 95RON

Premium is 98RON

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We only have 2 grades of fuel in europe now, 95/98RON. Most engines will run fine when rich/lean unless its super rich/lean, so most likely the issue is ignition timing. One test bike is not a good sample for all ! We are the crash test dummies for Dimsports latest product :) And mine is a 5th Gen, if I get time & can managed (I have a problem knee & no bike lift) I'll try & get the RB fitted & test run.

For anyone interested I stumbled across this excellent idea for monitoring knock !

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0353

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I put about 70 miles on the bike today. Runs alot better than it did with the PCV and the staintune map I had in it. I didn't really notice the office jerkiness or the problem in the 3-4000 rpm range. I did do the flapper mod when I had the tank propped up and the previous owner must have done the marbles in the pair hoses because everything is hooked up but I do not get any backfiring on decel.

One question I have since I am new to this. The unit will autotune itself I know. But do I have to save the map in the module every so often and then upload it back into the module but the module to run on the new settings? I was told that is how a PCV auto would work. Again I am a novice at using these modules.

Nick

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I put about 70 miles on the bike today. Runs alot better than it did with the PCV and the staintune map I had in it. I didn't really notice the office jerkiness or the problem in the 3-4000 rpm range. I did do the flapper mod when I had the tank propped up and the previous owner must have done the marbles in the pair hoses because everything is hooked up but I do not get any backfiring on decel.

One question I have since I am new to this. The unit will autotune itself I know. But do I have to save the map in the module every so often and then upload it back into the module but the module to run on the new settings? I was told that is how a PCV auto would work. Again I am a novice at using these modules.

Nick

I suggest posting here ...http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/79234-rapidbike-evo-and-racing-related-questions/

This way all Q&A will be in one place and Yaman, RapidBike US, is answering questions

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Okay I got to meet all the head guys from Italy yesterday at the AIM Expo and was overwhelmed by all of the valuable information that they provided me with. I will try to pass down as much as possible.

About the test bike. It was a 100% stock unmodified 2002-2005 vfr800. Testing was done using 98 RON which I was told was equivalent to US 93 (RON+MON)/2.

also I was informed of the disappointing news that our bikes do not appear to have an external gear position sensor and cannot support map by gear....

Also I was informed that correction pump feature should be around 5% fuel +/-2

And the timing advance on correction pump should not be advanced but could possibly be retarded to reduce throttle snatchyness

The engine braking feature defaults to factory at +99 and softens/Richens on overrun anywhere below that. The rpm should be set to full minimum.

Neither the engine braking feature nor the correction pump should be adjusted unless you are highly knowledgeable in the effects of adjusting these parameters as they can lead to serious damage if the are adjusted wrong.

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