MarantzManiac Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 FJ12Ryder.... yup, they're the correct LED's for the 5th Gen...find someone with small hands for the backlights, it's a little tight and they are polarity specific but won't burn out if installed backwards. RectalTronics... laugh a little buddy... if your going to toot your horn all day by all means install the relay... IMO, it's overkill for this application... and so long as we're blowing our horns, this backyard engineer has a BSEE. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FJ12Ryder Posted March 31, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted March 31, 2015 Thanks for the info, and the heads-up about the backlights. You are talking brake lights, and not instrument back lights, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarantzManiac Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 correct, brake lights, see complete thread.... http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/78803-new-red-led-tail-lights-ya-gotta-be-blind-not-to-see-me-stopping/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beck Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 A sound argument can be made that all switches will fail inevitably... but don't go tooting your hella too much or a little pitting will be the least of your worries... Sound argument. LOL. Ignore good advice at your own risk. A horn switch isn't something you want failing unexpectedly and OEM switchgear already has enough challenges with weather exposure, etc. Shifting the larger currents through the path of a relay means either the cheap and easy to find and replace relay will inevitably fail instead of your bike's expensive (and possibly difficult and/or lengthy to source) OEM switch. Aftermarket horn kits come with relays for a good reason. I think it's amusing when backyard engineers are convinced they know better. Yeah, do it the lazy way. It'll work. Until it doesn't. But it'll be more reliable AND louder if wired properly. http://www.rattlebars.com/avalanche/relay_basics.html For a single horn direct repalcement, unless it's an air horn, I would think you can run the new horn to the existing bake horn wiring, without any relays, without any problems, as the current/amp draw will not be sugnificatnly raise with the horns being discussed here. I've "Plug and Play" installed a Fiamme low tone snail horn to replace the dinky OEM many years ago on my 95, and zero porblems..... Now if I insalled dual Fiamme snail horns, I would have added in a relay then.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted March 31, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted March 31, 2015 For grins, I did add a relay in the horn circuit. I found the fairing stay a good place to mount it. The top red lead goes to the battery and has a fuse in line. pos side.... Light green and green are from the horn button. Lower red lead goes to the horn and ground lead goes to the other post on the horn. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rectaltronics Posted March 31, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted March 31, 2015 RectalTronics... laugh a little buddy... if your going to toot your horn all day by all means install the relay... IMO, it's overkill for this application... and so long as we're blowing our horns, this backyard engineer has a BSEE. Howdy neighbor. Have you had a handy in designing any consumer products? Remind me not to buy 'em. ;-) I have lots of respect for EEs. It takes real mad skillz to find just the right cheapness of Chinese capacitors to allow an electronic device to last 10-20% beyond the length of its warranty. On a serious note, I spend a portion of my day replacing or repairing shit that fails because some highly qualified engineer thought it would work fine long enough. Some of the failures are sufficiently obscure to lend some benefit of doubt but others are disgraceful and repeatable from year to year of production runs. Let's all try not to be That Guy especially when it's safety gear that we're wiring up. Stock horn wiring will reduce the output of an aftermarket horn and OEM switchgear is not designed for those currents. It may not take all that many make/break cycles to induce a failure and you don't want to find out you reached the limit when an SUV is changing lanes right into you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer RC51Nick Posted April 2, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted April 2, 2015 For grins, I did add a relay in the horn circuit. I found the fairing stay a good place to mount it. The top red lead goes to the battery and has a fuse in line. pos side.... Light green and green are from the horn button. Lower red lead goes to the horn and ground lead goes to the other post on the horn. . Mello dude. Where did you get the terminal ends that you used to hook up the relay. I have a relay coming for my Hella horn and want to make everything as nice and neat looking as your setup. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted April 2, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted April 2, 2015 Why the 5 prong relay when a 4 will do? Had it lying around? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FJ12Ryder Posted April 2, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted April 2, 2015 Like you said, probably just had it laying around. I used a 4 prong on mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted April 2, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted April 2, 2015 Why the 5 prong relay when a 4 will do? Had it lying around? Yup... I have a electric spare parts drawer in my tool box. Lotsa misc wire, terminals, wire, loose horns, new terminals, a few relays, heat shrink etc....- a handy junk drawer. I've have fixed plenty of electric stuff on bikes with the magic drawer. -- I used the 5 pin, cause it had a bracket for mounting it. Drilled a hole in the fairing stay and used a 5mm bolt with a rubber piece for shock insulation. Turned out fine. RC51Nick -- If you dont have a parts drawer, usually the auto parts store has electric terminal stuff that will fair ok for a horn job. Heat shrink it up..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer expvet Posted April 8, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted April 8, 2015 Hi Folks. I just finished installing the Hella horn on my 06 VFR but find that the horn sits lower and is in front of the coils. I used the bracket that came with it mounted to the OEM bracket and can see that the horn will wobble front to back and hit the coils on a regular bases when it moves, which is not a good thing. Did anyone have a similar fit and if so what did you do to remedy it? If you could include a picture it would help. The only pic I saw in this thread was on a 5th gen and it seems that the horn mounts higher and at an angle that avoids the coils. The horn is plenty loud and I definitely want to keep it on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted April 8, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted April 8, 2015 Hi Folks. I just finished installing the Hella horn on my 06 VFR but find that the horn sits lower and is in front of the coils. I used the bracket that came with it mounted to the OEM bracket and can see that the horn will wobble front to back and hit the coils on a regular bases when it moves, which is not a good thing. Did anyone have a similar fit and if so what did you do to remedy it? If you could include a picture it would help. The only pic I saw in this thread was on a 5th gen and it seems that the horn mounts higher and at an angle that avoids the coils. The horn is plenty loud and I definitely want to keep it on. I have place mine in the space and you must be careful about extending the mounting bracket or you will contact the front fender when the forks compress. And I have the front fender off of my 03 to prove it . I went to the local junkyard and remove a Mercedes horn and mounted them on a extended bracket . Every time I would cross railroad tracks I would hear this awful rattle, it was the horn hitting the top of the fender . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer RC51Nick Posted April 9, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted April 9, 2015 Anyone comenup with a decent mounting location ( reasonably close to old horn) or bracket yet for a 6th gen? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer expvet Posted April 10, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted April 10, 2015 A bracket would be the best solution. I am also looking at using a rubber bushing that will go on the nut that holds the horn to the bracket. At least that would provide a cushion when it contacts the coils. But definitely as it currently is with the wobble making the horn hit the coils is asking for trouble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer RC51Nick Posted April 15, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted April 15, 2015 A bracket would be the best solution. I am also looking at using a rubber bushing that will go on the nut that holds the horn to the bracket. At least that would provide a cushion when it contacts the coils. But definitely as it currently is with the wobble making the horn hit the coils is asking for trouble. I'm trying something different. Mine does not have ABS so there is a large area behind the L/S of the cowl turn signal where the ABS module would go. The horn seems to fit but I'm going to see how everything elses comes together. Will post up when I'm done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.