Steel Brake Lines & Rotors

[Texfoto]

I've done a bit of searching on here but I haven't found the answer or at least enough information on my question.

I like the linked brake system. I don't want to lose it. I know people install EBC brake pads to improve braking but I thought about taking it a step farther with a full set of steel braided brake lines as well. I'd like to keep most everything else stock if possible.

For simplicities sake I'll keep my questions to the front brakes as I'm not worried about the back. My questions are:

- With increased braking power do the rotors wear out quicker or can they warp more easily? I can live with wearing out quicker as long as they don't fail.

- Does the front allow for a thicker rotor with stock calipers and retaining the linked system?

- Any concerns about increased power on the stock system?

I'd love to hear from all who have done this. My reasons for upgrading are 1) better braking power for my own rides 2) better braking power with two up.

[V4 Rosso]

but I thought about taking it a step farther with a full set of steel braided brake lines as well.

...

- With increased braking power do the rotors wear out quicker or can they warp more easily? I can live with wearing out quicker as long as they don't fail.

Just for the record: steel braided brake lines do not increase braking power. Using different pads can and often that means a slight increase in wear of either the rotor or the pads.

[Texfoto]

I must have misunderstood this over the years. I thought they were more rigid lines which increased the pressure on the caliper. What do steel braided brake lines do then?

[dalesvfr]

Steel brake lines are capable of handling more pressure without blowing. But if your reservoir doesn't change you aren't moving any more fluid and the pressure at the caliper is the same.

[V4 Rosso]

What do steel braided brake lines do then?

They give a more direct feel, less spongyness. And it is not the steel braiding that is responsible but the teflon hose instead of rubber as used in normal kevlar braided (and with a rubber outer lining) brake hoses.

Often the so called increased performance (or feel) comes from replacing old hoses by new ones, and people choose the steel braided ones because they are a lot cheaper than OEM and function just as well. Also the teflon hoses can last longer so it is a sensible choice.

[AnikMankar]

Steel braided - do not expand as much as the OEM - So basically no "swelling" of the tubes, hence more pressure and better response.

[Switchblade]

Definitely better then stock ...

[FJ12Ryder]

I never felt the brakes on my '99 VFR were lacking in any way, but I do like the look and feel of braided steel lines. I installed the complete Galfer steel line setup, and love it. It definitely

makes the brakes a 2 finger, and sometimes 1 finger operation. Like was mentioned, part of the difference is the change from OEM rubber lines to steel and part of it is simply changing

12 year old rubber brake lines.

I don't think you can put thicker brake rotors, or at least mot much thicker, because of clearance issues. And you don't really need them anyway. Well, maybe if you're doing a lot of track

days or running the Dragon 20 times a day.

The HH pads also add to the change in braking feel. Over all, adding the steel lines and HH pads is a very good thing. Just be careful and get used to the decreased lever pressure necessary

compared to the old system, especially if you're changing old lines for new.

[Africord]

I've just completed the conversion using HEL lines. The big difference is progressiveness. The application of force on the lever is more linear and managed. I stop quicker because of feedback, not more actual braking force.

I installed EBC HH pads on the front a couple of years ago and haven't noticed any significant impact to the rotors. But they do have more "bite" than stock. The rear pads are stock.

[Texfoto]

So, based on all these responses, which I appreciate, it sounds like this is an improvement overall. I now have to ask myself whether the time and effort to replace them all is worth the gain for me.

In the near future I am going to upgrade the rear shock with a fully adjustable and new springs and valves in the front. I just thought that if I was doing this I could really get a bonus out of doing the brake lines and pads as well and wanted to do it right.

I don't really try to use the public roads as my racetrack but I do like a brisk pace in a corner once in a while. A solid suspension that feels planted with some added brake improvements just sounds too nice not to do at once I suppose was my thought.

[luvtoleanit]

Braided steel/teflon is always better than rubber unless you are talking about tires. Do it. S/S lines, if you want more, change the pads, if you want more, go to a Brembo master cylinder, then if you are still wanting, change the rotors. I'm partial to the RCS19 if going aftermarket master cylinder.

In the end the cheapest and most effective, S/S lines.

[Texfoto]

Braided steel/teflon is always better than rubber unless you are talking about tires. Do it. S/S lines, if you want more, change the pads, if you want more, go to a Brembo master cylinder, then if you are still wanting, change the rotors. I'm partial to the RCS19 if going aftermarket master cylinder.

In the end the cheapest and most effective, S/S lines.

Since you are from Texas I will have to take your word and do it.

Any idea how many hours and difficulty level on this? I can wrench a little and bleed a clutch or brakes, I just haven't tried bleeding linked brakes but I do have the instructions on this.

[FJ12Ryder]

It can be a bit daunting because of the sheer number of lines; if you get the complete Galfer kit including clutch, I think it's 9 lines. But it really isn't quite

as bad as it sounds. The hardest part is just getting everything bled. I used a MityVac to get the fluid started, and installed Speedbleeders to make it easier

once I got the fluid started. I only used about a quart of brake fluid, but I got very lucky on the bleeding part. I've read of guys going through a couple of

quarts trying to get things bled.

I took my time and worked on it over a couple days. If you stuck to it, I'm thinking probably 4-5 hours would do it. It all depends on how mechanically inclined you

are and how well the bleeding goes.

And be very careful with the brake fluid, it will fade/ruin paint, and also ruin plastic. Take no chances, and have plenty of water around to wash the fluid off

if you spill it.

Good luck, and you'll be glad you did it when it's all finished.

[Duc2V4]

I replaced the lines on both my VFRs. I did the 6 Gen first and I had a little trouble getting to one of the rear lines, as I didn't remove anything under the seat, so I left it overnight and went back to it and then bled the lines the next day. I did the 5 Gen in less than a day, including the bleeding part but I also had the 6 Gen experience to draw from. I will say that the 5 Gen was a little easier to deal even though there are more lines, as it was easier to reach all the flare nuts and banjo bolts. One thing I had an issue with though, the two hard lines on the front of the 5 Gen I had to replace, the flare nuts got a little rounded and one of them developed a leak. I ordered new lines and put them in and re-bled everything in just a few hours. I would recommend getting a flare nut wrench to deal with the hard line connections. I believe it's a 10mm.

[Texfoto]

Can I get another opinion on a braided clutch line, is there any advantage to this being replaced?

[zupatun]

maybe theer's a little advantage to the clutch line feel but not in my opinion...for my money I worry about the brake lines....stock works fine for clutch...spend the money on heated grips or new springs if you haven't already...

[Switchblade]

Can I get another opinion on a braided clutch line, is there any advantage to this being replaced?

Just for looks but if your not worry about that .