Member Contributer Mohawk Posted April 4, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 4, 2014 Just did this to my 5th Gen at lunch time, all main instrument lights are LED 5 lamp types. The indicators are now flat type & the warning lights are standard. I found that the 194 W5W style can also be used for the parking light, so i now have an all led headlight array :) As I don't ride the bike often in the dark, I never realised that 4 of the 5 main instrument bulbs were blown ! Amazing how it looks now :) Need to sort the time on that clock to as the pic was taken around 13:00hrs ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crewwolfy Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 Very nice. Really pops! Any pictures you took along the way would be very helpful. Did you have to modify anything to allow the lower wattage? Can you link to the exact bulbs you used? Nice work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted April 4, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 4, 2014 Sorry didn't take pics. Need to remove front fairing, I had it off already for other work. Then need to undo 3 x 10mm nuts holding instrument cluster on to fairing sub frame. On the back of the cluster there are 5 x redish/brown 1/4 twist lamp holders, plus 2 x Blue indicator lamp holders & at the bottom 4 x black mini indicator lamp holders. Ebay item. 5 LED bulbs = 150800537519 These are used for the 5 main instrument bulbs, they can be used for the indicators too. This was a pack of 10 & you need seven bulbs total inc the 2 for the indicators. i used one of these for the parking lamp in the headlight too. Ebay item. 1 Flat LED bulb = 270996379859 I got these for the indicators as being flat all light is thrown at the lense & they really are bright, you won't forget your flashing indicator ! There are NO power issues, other than the LED's are polarity sensitive, so if you put the holder in & it does not light up, then remove & reinsert 180 degrees around. Why ? Well I saw some other threads & decided that with the fairing off I better check my bulbs 4 of the 5 main ones were blown :( Being solid state they should last longer than incandescent bulbs, only time will tell. They are cheaper than incandescent bulbs too. the pack of ten gave me spares, just in case :) Any LED bulb that matches the 194 or W5W type can be used, don't need a specific match. It does not affect the indicators, as the load for those comes from the main indicator bulbs, which on mine are still incandescent, so they flash normally. Hope that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crewwolfy Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 Awesome, thanks for the extra info. I have my front cowl apart at the moment, might as well do the same thing.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubSailor Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 Likewise, I replaced my incandescent with LED several weeks ago. The larger bulbs were LED equivalent to 194 type, and the smaller bulbs were 74 LED equivalent. The bulbs were also polarized so I used a permanent marker to mark the orientaton of the bulb and socket in relation to the panel receptacle. The smaller bulbs didn't quite seat securely in their sockets as the OEM bulbs did, and I feared they might possibly vibrate loose, so I placed a small dab of silicone glue to secure them in place. Made a huge difference in visibility, even in broad daylight. One thing to be aware of, be sure and order the LED bulbs that use one super-bright LED over multiple groups of LED. While the bulb may fit into the socket base just fine, it may be too large in diameter to fit into the panel bulb opening. When viewing the LED bulb specs, check the bulb output in lumens, and the O.D. of the bulb as compared with OEM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer BCmcrider Posted April 5, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 5, 2014 Are you concerned about it being too bright at night and detracting from your night vision? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted April 5, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 5, 2014 I'm tall & can't see the clocks without looking down when riding. Mine are no brighter than new bulbs, except for the indicator ones. YMMV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v4pilot Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 I also did this but used blue leds and replaced the gauge faces with brushed aluminum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer AnikMankar Posted April 23, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 23, 2014 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfr350 Posted April 25, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 25, 2014 ANIK that is the most complete best dash i have seen, props. Are any gauge faces truely drop in? Anyone try the plasma faced? With the LEDs swapped in do the needle still light up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer AnikMankar Posted April 25, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 25, 2014 The cost of plasma was nearly double plus would have been difficult to add the volt meter. The gauges are actually quite bolt on except for the rpm side the needle stop holes are a little big. The needles do fit properly so have to glue them on. Rest was a piece of cake. Getting a perfect alignment on the needle is tough. The rpm is off by 300rpm when I comp was with an electronic rpm gauge. thanks Anik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted April 25, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 25, 2014 The cost of plasma was nearly double plus would have been difficult to add the volt meter. The gauges are actually quite bolt on except for the rpm side the needle stop holes are a little big. The needles do fit properly so have to glue them on. Rest was a piece of cake. Getting a perfect alignment on the needle is tough. The rpm is off by 300rpm when I comp was with an electronic rpm gauge. thanks Anik So it idles at 800 r.p.m. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer AnikMankar Posted April 25, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 25, 2014 No shows 1500 ... thanks Anik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aimbot9000 Posted April 27, 2014 Share Posted April 27, 2014 Is the lcd backlit with a blue bulb or is that a color filter ? I ask because i would like to switch my dash to red. or would that not be possible on a stock dash? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer AnikMankar Posted April 27, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 27, 2014 The dash is white lite with a white LED. You can use red LEDs SMD to have a red effect on your stock gauge thanks Anik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted April 27, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 27, 2014 Not saying it wont work, but you likely will have super bright needles and not so much of everything else. The way I've read it, the white LED light (and natural incandescent light) contains the full spectrum and therefore the colored needles and numbers will filter all the colors and only allow through whatever color they are. It's best to use the LED color behind the same color lens, or white for multiple colors from one bulb. -edit: Maybe you're only saying red for the LCD? If so, yes that will work. Pretty sure it's two bulbs, 3 for the dials. In mine I have (3) white behind the dials, (2 IIRC) Blue behind the LCD, and color matched behind each indicator lens: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer AnikMankar Posted April 27, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 27, 2014 In theory the you will bet a red at the LCD but my guess is the dialsay end up reddish or purplish. Changing the stock to whiter dials would definitely give you a redder look thanks Anik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aimbot9000 Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 With some sleep and coffee I can now see how poorly phrased my question was. thank you for the info guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNRabbit Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 Not saying it wont work, but you likely will have super bright needles and not so much of everything else. The way I've read it, the white LED light (and natural incandescent light) contains the full spectrum and therefore the colored needles and numbers will filter all the colors and only allow through whatever color they are. It's best to use the LED color behind the same color lens, or white for multiple colors from one bulb. -edit: Maybe you're only saying red for the LCD? If so, yes that will work. Pretty sure it's two bulbs, 3 for the dials. In mine I have (3) white behind the dials, (2 IIRC) Blue behind the LCD, and color matched behind each indicator lens: Exactly what I did. It's the titz! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MadScientist Posted April 28, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 28, 2014 Is the lcd backlit with a blue bulb or is that a color filter ? I ask because i would like to switch my dash to red. or would that not be possible on a stock dash? It is a blue plastic filter. I removed mine with no ill effect so the red backlighting would be better. Also swapped the color filter for the brights with the oil pressure light so I don't have an annoying blue light in my face when the brights are on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted April 28, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 28, 2014 I wasn't aware there was a blue filter in there, so I took apart an extra to take a look. Low and behold, there it is! I pulled it out and put it back together with a red LED to take a look. Even with the filter out it was pretty dim. Only had one red to try, but even with only one blue in there it's pretty good. Maybe a better bulb would work? I only had an inverted cone style on hand to try. But that's what I have in blue on the dash i use. When I first tried it out this morning before I took out the filter, it was almost not visible. Here's a couple pics: Pull these 6 screws out (already removed) to release the LCD and circuit board Here's it all apart: Unfortunately, after putting it all back together I can't get anything to display on the LCD. At least it was a spare one! Can't recommend you try it, but maybe you'll have better luck... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MadScientist Posted April 28, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 28, 2014 Kev, do you have the LCD in there upside down when you reassembled? I'm lighting mine with the 5 led bulbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer AnikMankar Posted April 28, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 28, 2014 Those vertical tabs on both side of the LCD should align properly with the back plate thanks Anik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted April 28, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 28, 2014 Kev, do you have the LCD in there upside down when you reassembled? I'm lighting mine with the 5 led bulbs. I suppose. Anything is possible... Not really a priority since it's just sitting on my workbench. I've spent all the time I have for it today. I'm still happy with the blue in the LCD on my bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MadScientist Posted April 29, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 29, 2014 Those vertical tabs on both side of the LCD should align properly with the back plate thanks Anik If you are referring to the grey "tabs" on the sides of the lcd itself, those do not provide orientation. You can just as easily install the actual lcd portion upside down. Additionally, the 4 black metal tabs are only for the bezel that holds the lcd unit in place, the lcd is a separate piece. They will not help orient the lcd screen itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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