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Speed Bleeder On A 4Th Gen?


Dutchy

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Anyone have these?

Am considering buying 4 (1 for the clutch as well).

Do they really work as advertised?

connect drain tube

open 1/4 turn

take lid of reservoir

pour some new fluid

pull lever, keeping an eye that the reservoir stays filled

repeat until clear liquid comes out.

close

Goodridge sell regular (some $5) and stainless steel ones ($15); anyone regretting buying the regular ones?

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I have them on mine, they do make bleeding easier! but not as easy as http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_bcbe.asp I picked up one of these after tearing my calipers apart (was taking forever to bleed them) and was very happy :cool: makes fluid changes a breeze

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Do you have linked brakes on your 4th gen Dutchy? If you don't and your bleeding process is fairly straight forward, it may not be worth your while.

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I want to use them to flush, on non linked nor abs.

Stahlbus is sold in EU, at $25 equiv a piece. So could you elaborate on them being better?

Does Dani use them on his Honda??? :-)

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are you teasing dutchy??? :unsure:

park your bike. turn the bars to the right. loosen the MC mount and level the MC...tighten.

take a tube and fit it over the bleed nipple.

clear tubing works best as you can see the color change..

tape to the inside of a throw away cup or bottle..

remove the MC top. loosen nipple.

open a beer. :beer:

turn on a game..

check the cup.. fluid in the cup? bet there is!!

check the MC level..

going down? almost gone? add new fluid....

check the score.. is your team winning?

check your beer.. almost gone?

check the fluid in the tube / cup.. clear ? tighten bleeder.

move tube to the other side..

repeat.

watch the game.. finish beer!

clear fluid in the cup? tighten bleeder.

top off MC, add cap.

squeeze lever..

WOW!! ITS FIRM!!!

tighten cap.

do the back brake... same method but try a different beer. :beer:

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Not teasing, but venturing into an area I have always paid to have the work done.

and thus looking at the right tools for the job....

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Park Tools sells a cheap one way bleeder valve with short lengnths of hoses attached to it that worked well for my 4th gen.

One thing I heard about Speed Bleeders is, for some users, they sometime leak at the threads, and supposedly that made it so that some air might get into the system while bleeding. I heard of remedies like using plumbers teflon tape to seal the bleeder nipple threads better usually works(?)....

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I want to use them to flush, on non linked nor abs.

Stahlbus is sold in EU, at $25 equiv a piece. So could you elaborate on them being better?

Does Dani use them on his Honda??? :-)

You get them across the pond a lot cheaper than we get them here. Speed Bleeders use a thread sealer to keep air from getting into the system when in the open position. This sealer does wear after repeated use and can and often does eventually introduce air into the system when open. The Stahlbus bleeder valve is essentially two parts: a semi-permanent seat that remains in the caliper (thus no thread wear of the caliper with constant opening and closing) and the valve which is opened and closed with respect to the seat. If you Google "speed bleeder leak," you will find more than a few cases of the aforementioned issue. I don't know if Speed Bleeder moved their manufacturing to China, but Stahlbus is designed and manufactured in Germany (and always will be) and TUV tested. I've used both Speed Bleeder and Stahlbus, and after trying Stahlbus, I've never looked back. Plus, they have cool aluminum dust cover caps to match your bike if you are into the bling.

post-28057-0-04448700-1381430470.jpg

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I want to use them to flush, on non linked nor abs.

Stahlbus is sold in EU, at $25 equiv a piece. So could you elaborate on them being better?

Does Dani use them on his Honda??? :-)

You get them across the pond a lot cheaper than we get them here. Speed Bleeders use a thread sealer to keep air from getting into the system when in the open position. This sealer does wear after repeated use and can and often does eventually introduce air into the system when open. The Stahlbus bleeder valve is essentially two parts: a semi-permanent seat that remains in the caliper (thus no thread wear of the caliper with constant opening and closing) and the valve which is opened and closed with respect to the seat. If you Google "speed bleeder leak," you will find more than a few cases of the aforementioned issue. I don't know if Speed Bleeder moved their manufacturing to China, but Stahlbus is designed and manufactured in Germany (and always will be) and TUV tested. I've used both Speed Bleeder and Stahlbus, and after trying Stahlbus, I've never looked back. Plus, they have cool aluminum dust cover caps to match your bike if you are into the bling.

attachicon.gifstahlbus.jpg.343715.jpg

The last few speed bleeders I bought all had thread sealant already applied and they also sell the sealant, although you do have to "bake it" on. It looks like the Stahlbuss uses a rubber o-ring which could be replaced much easier and quicker.

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I've used speed bleeders a long time on multiple bikes. It just makes bleeding brakes painless. On a dry system you do have to use a Mityvac to get things started. But once fluid is moving, its just like a normal bleed job. Never had an issue with any of the speedbleeders.

That Stahibuss bleeder looks interesting, its probly "da bomb" for a clutch slave.

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Cheers guys! :goofy:

Speedbleeder's website does state that multiple use (ie after each race) will wear the sealant.

I envisage using them every two years myself.

The Stahlbus do look more bling, pity that the valve will be somewhat hidden from view on my 4th gen slave cilinder.

post-8974-0-05823500-1381473375.jpg

final 2 questions:

Did the regular speedbleeders rust on you?

My front brakes were serviced recently, can I simply pull the old valve and screw on the bleeder? Or will the oil squirt out?

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final 2 questions:

Did the regular speedbleeders rust on you?

My front brakes were serviced recently, can I simply pull the old valve and screw on the bleeder? Or will the oil squirt out?

-- No rust, they have a chromate finish.

- Pull out old, stick in new, give the mc some pumps to firm it up. ez peasy. (Of course, do the valve switch quickly, pull old, hold finger over hole, grab new and screw it in. )

Suggestion to consider is getting the SB8125L instead of the SB8125, the nipple is larger for the bleed hose to grab on to...

--- On mine for the 5th gen, the SB8125's are a bit of a pain with the bleed hose. I use a small automotive spring hose clamp over the nipple so the fricken bleed hose stays put, instead of popping off.

(LL is typically a slave cylinder part.)

SpeedBleederpic.jpg

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Cheers Mello :beer:

Speedbleeder's website state "proudly made in the USA" so I donot expect poor quality.....

Checking with my mates if they too want some so we get 1 package shipped from the USA.

I could possibly "cheat" by buying the Stahlbus pimping colored caps.... :goofy:

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regular ones are cheap and eventually rust out. I have moved to SS one worth the spend. no regrets !!

i had regular ones on my GSX750 and the VFR...but eventually moved the VFR to SS.

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Ordered! :beer:

As always with Yoshua (wiremybike.com), great prices, great service!

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  • 2 weeks later...
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And the package made it across the pond! Great service from Joshua at wiremybike.com as usual. :-)

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