Yet Another Crispy Connector

[Veefer800Canuck]

Bike is charging good since I redid to connections. Cut, splice, solder and shrink wrap.

I'm getting around 14.1v measured at the battery, which is about 0.8v more than my voltmeter actually shows, wired in at the front of the bike, on the + lead going out from the ignition switch.

Voltage fluctuates with RPM as expected, and I've ridden the bike twice, for about 60 miles total. Cranks and starts perfectly. And I took the battery tender off after winter storage, to see how well the charging system would do, all alone, without the "crutch" of a trickle charger in the garage.

[gll429]

CUT THE BLOCK OFF!!

solder the wires to the harness. ground your green wire in 3 more places. front, back, and mid bike.

PM sent.

[mello dude]

Throwing another sealed connector suggestion into the mix - Dephi Automotive Metri-Pack 630..Rated for 46 amps. Looks like..

Vendor

http://www.pcsconnectors.com/metripack630.aspx

[Guest]

The $hit that should have been supplied on the wiring harnesses from the factory...

[Veefer800Canuck]

CUT THE BLOCK OFF!!

I did, the stator connector is history. Direct wired from stator to R/R and I used 12 Ga wires where I had replaced a few inches, stock wires are 14 Ga.

[NakedViffer]

The thing to do on the stock stator connector, or any connector for that matter, is to de-pin them with a small pick. Then take some pliers and tighten down the female spade terminal, gives them a much better, tighter connection, I do this to almost all my connectors that use spade style pins.

Also, I can't help but recommend the R1 MOSFET R/R some more.. This thing runs great, it barely gets warm, and I get a solid 14.4v to the battery no matter what rpm I am at.



EDIT:
I also like to de-pin the male side and scrub them down with a small wire brush for better contact.

[JeffInFranklinTN]

Geez, I hate these crappy connections.

Cleaned it right up last year when I put my new stator on, and half the connector was, of course, brand new at that time, and this year???

Stator AC outputs:

Chopped the affected wires off, stripped them back, tested the stator, all tests were normal phase to phase and to ground.

Deep-sixed the connector, and direct wired the stator to the R/R. Soldered and shrink wrapped, used 12 gauge wires Vs the stock 14 gauge.

Gained a volt on the charging system, now at 13.9V at the battery. Increases and decreases with RPM as expected.

The other (black) connector to the harness was fine, the 12v output from the R/R to the harness. Clean as a whistle, no corrosion, discoloration, melting, perfect.

How old is the battery? I have a theory of one reason why these connectors burn out.

With a new battery the R/R isn't required to throw alot of juice from the stator at it to keep it charged. It will send most of the available current to ground but when a cell in a battery is starting to go bad, the voltage capacity within the battery starts to drop. It still may be strong enough the start the bike and run the systems but the battery is telling the R/R "Hey, I'm not getting charged, I need more juice." So the R/R throws more juice to the battery and less to ground. Now since the R/R is demanding more current and more prolonged current from the stator, those 3 yellow wires/connector are heating up. And as the battery gets older and even more weak. It will ask for even more prolonged current from the stator heating the 3 yellow wires up even more. To ad more misery to the 3 yellow wires/connector....the heat building up in those wires/connector causes resistance, resistance causes even more heat which is an inevitable death for that connector.

If your battery is two years old or more have it load tested. If it's showing signs of getting weak, replace it. Clean your terminals once or twice during the season. If you have a "wet" cell remove it from the bike and check the fluid level at least once mid season. If it's low only ad distilled water. Clean the battery terminals/cables. Also clean the ground connections from the harness to the frame grounds. Good ground connections are very important.

Some say to have a battery tender connected whenever you're not riding. While others say don't do that.

Jeff

[Veefer800Canuck]

Battery was brand new last year, and spent the winter on a battery tender. AGM style battery.

The 3-phase AC outputs from the stator to the R/R produce full voltage, all the time, regardless of battery condition or age, whenever the MC is running.

Something like 55-60 VAC, I forget precisely.

The 12VDC output connector from the R/R to the MC wiring harness is pristine. Clean as a whistle, no corrosion or discoloration, and the wires are all perfect going in and perfect coming out.

[Auspanglish]

KFC = Kentucky Fried Connectors... Honda lives off 'em.

[Switchblade]

I have had this 5 wire setup on my mind for a while. Thinking about trying it next time I have a charging problem.

Five wire stator harness setup

Here is a diagram from a pretty sharp motorcycle fellow who saw my request for help on the
5 wire stator harness problem . This is his take on it and it makes sense. It takes a few more
dollars to try it but I think it's worth it for some of you. I found a Dodge "78" regulator and
connector for it on Amazon. Make sure you buy a 12volt regulator. The 3 phase SQL50A
rectifier I found on Ebay. It is pretty self explanatory. I put this system on my SX650 Yamaha
Street Tracker. If you need a SQL50Amp rectifier I have some in stock $12.00 free shipping.

Works great!!! No issues.

Jack

SQL50A 3 phase rectifier
Changes AC to DC.
75 Dodge electronic voltage regulator.

Here's the link

http://roadstercycle.com/Five_wire_stator_setup.htm

[coderighter]

I have had this 5 wire setup on my mind for a while. Thinking about trying it next time I have a charging problem.

Five wire stator harness setup

Here is a diagram from a pretty sharp motorcycle fellow who saw my request for help on the

5 wire stator harness problem . This is his take on it and it makes sense. It takes a few more

dollars to try it but I think it's worth it for some of you. I found a Dodge "78" regulator and

connector for it on Amazon. Make sure you buy a 12volt regulator. The 3 phase SQL50A

rectifier I found on Ebay. It is pretty self explanatory. I put this system on my SX650 Yamaha

Street Tracker. If you need a SQL50Amp rectifier I have some in stock $12.00 free shipping.

Works great!!! No issues.

Jack

SQL50A 3 phase rectifier

Changes AC to DC.

75 Dodge electronic voltage regulator.

Here's the link

http://roadstercycle.com/Five_wire_stator_setup.htm

VFR has a permanent magnet alternator. There is no electric field to regulate.

[Guest]

Direct wired my yeller plug (it's gone) but there is another with some issue. is it supposed to look like this. what did you guys do regarding this situation. I'm thinking maybe the posi-lock idea might work or should I direct solder also.

Great site we have here. thanks

[Veefer800Canuck]

That's bad. Which plug is that and what is it for? Like, what devices are hooked to it?

[Switchblade]

I have had this 5 wire setup on my mind for a while. Thinking about trying it next time I have a charging problem.

Five wire stator harness setup

Here is a diagram from a pretty sharp motorcycle fellow who saw my request for help on the

5 wire stator harness problem . This is his take on it and it makes sense. It takes a few more

dollars to try it but I think it's worth it for some of you. I found a Dodge "78" regulator and

connector for it on Amazon. Make sure you buy a 12volt regulator. The 3 phase SQL50A

rectifier I found on Ebay. It is pretty self explanatory. I put this system on my SX650 Yamaha

Street Tracker. If you need a SQL50Amp rectifier I have some in stock $12.00 free shipping.

Works great!!! No issues.

Jack

SQL50A 3 phase rectifier

Changes AC to DC.

75 Dodge electronic voltage regulator.

Here's the link

http://roadstercycle.com/Five_wire_stator_setup.htm

VFR has a permanent magnet alternator. There is no electric field to regulate.

Yeah got it you would have to put the old style alternator on ...

[Mac Morgan]

Having had the fried connector problem as well as rr issues, what is causing all the heat that is melting the connectors?

When I first got my 98 VFR new, I stopped one day and turned the bike off with the kill switch instead of the key; result was a dead battery. I bump-started the bike and got it running but I think that was the start of my problem. A low battery causing the rr to pull excess current (amps) through the system could cause this condition... I think.

I now have 2 98 VFRs. My original one is on its 3 rr with wires connected with posi- taps. It has about 22k and I don't ride it much. My second has about 14k and has never had the problem although I have a brand new Mosfet rr wired and ready for the switch. Btw, the kit came from www.roadstercycle.com.

So my question is still, what causes the heat?

Mac Morgan

[gll429]

Having had the fried connector problem as well as rr issues, what is causing all the heat that is melting the connectors?

When I first got my 98 VFR new, I stopped one day and turned the bike off with the kill switch instead of the key; result was a dead battery. I bump-started the bike and got it running but I think that was the start of my problem. A low battery causing the rr to pull excess current (amps) through the system could cause this condition... I think.

I now have 2 98 VFRs. My original one is on its 3 rr with wires connected with posi- taps. It has about 22k and I don't ride it much. My second has about 14k and has never had the problem although I have a brand new Mosfet rr wired and ready for the switch. Btw, the kit came from www.roadstercycle.com.

So my question is still, what causes the heat?

Mac Morgan

PM SENT!

[Misspent Youth]

The thing to do on the stock stator connector, or any connector for that matter, is to de-pin them with a small pick. Then take some pliers and tighten down the female spade terminal, gives them a much better, tighter connection, I do this to almost all my connectors that use spade style pins.

Also, I can't help but recommend the R1 MOSFET R/R some more.. This thing runs great, it barely gets warm, and I get a solid 14.4v to the battery no matter what rpm I am at.

EDIT:

I also like to de-pin the male side and scrub them down with a small wire brush for better contact.

Any additional direction on how to de-pin these? None of the youtube vids I found addressed these particular connectors. I've tried a small screwdriver, a large paper clip, and something that looks like a ninja throwing star with different ends or points on it (some flat, some round/hollow). Do I go in from the inside to outside? I think that's correct. On the top of the blade/receiver? Or beneath it? Paper clip goes all the way through when I use the hole on the underside. Thanks for any help. I've actually got a lot mechanical experience on this bike and others, so that makes this one frustrating.

[vfrAustin]

I used Posi Lock connectors and still couldn't stop thinking about the importance of this connection and the vulnerability of these connections. After the strong recommendation of others on the site, I have soldered all the connections and feel 100% better about it.

[Guest]

You also need to look at the main fuse holder/starter relay- the "U" shaped spring pieces that provide tension for the 30 amp main fuse get weak/dirty over time and become a high resistance joint. My bike quit miles from home 'cause the 30 amp fuse was melted, deformed and quit making a connection.

After replacing the 30 amp fuse, I rode home with no issues. When I checked the melted fuse, it was still electrically conductive!!!!!! ( only the plastic was melted)

New plan-- get a new starter relay/ fuse holder, open it up and connect a dedicated new waterproof

fuse holder where the cheesy "U" shaped spring pieces are.

So far, along with soldered alternator /RR wires, -no issues (doh!!!)

[Misspent Youth]

Thanks for the input, Jeff and Austin. I understand the options and have a terminal block on stand-by to use in place of the connector, but for now I just want to clean up the connector which doesn't yet show any signs of overheating. I do need to take a look at the 30 amp fuse holder, as it's been a while (I've owned the bike since '05). Re: the connector's spades, I found the lock tab is on the crimp side of the male, and on the non-crimp side of the female. Back to take another whack at it.

EDIT - Re: Sumitomo Connector spade removal - finally managed it. Unlike seemingly every other spade, the 5th gen spade does NOT use a metal rise/tab on the spade itself to grip the connector. The tab to be lifted (from the spade's mating side) is part of the plastic connector and I used one of those tiny flathead screwdrivers you get with an iphone replacement battery. Slide it in slowly and it should stop at the tab's leading edge, apply some pressure and rock the screwdriver to get the edge under the tab's lip while pushing the wire in from the back to take some pressure off the tab, lift up the tab a bit while then pulling on the wire and it should pop out easily.

I also noticed the wires from the factory stator (a Honda replacement) are noticeably thinner than those to R/R (the Honda non-MOSFET upgraded version).