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3G oil change schedule


mk2davis

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I know it's been a few miles since I've done my last oil change on my '91, so I looked up the recommended interval. The manual says (after the first one of course) the oil change interval is 8000 miles. 8000 miles? That seems a bit far, at least to me. So my question to you is, how long do you wait?

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4G('95),5K km(3K miles), filter every 2nd change, conventional oil(Rotella 15W 40 or similar other brands)diesel oil. 239K km, started using conventional oil as above way before 100K km.

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When shifting gets clunky. That's usually around 4 or 5k with Mobil 1 15w-50 synthetic. (With regular oil it was around 2k.)

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I've had my oil analyzed by Blackstone labs a few times.

I had Oil w/aprox 3,000kms on it tested....but it was in the bike throughout winter storage so it was around 6-7months old.

I also had oild w/aprox 5,000kms on it tested. only 1 or 2 months old.

Both came back clean, no Viscosity weight loss, and plenty of life left.

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I've had my oil analyzed by Blackstone labs a few times.

I had Oil w/aprox 3,000kms on it tested....but it was in the bike throughout winter storage so it was around 6-7months old.

I also had oild w/aprox 5,000kms on it tested. only 1 or 2 months old.

Both came back clean, no Viscosity weight loss, and plenty of life left.

What oil were you using. Thanks.

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Note to self (so I don't have to look all this up again):

oil change on centerstand, check with dipstick resting on neck, next oil change before 41k, PL14610

Thanks all.

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Note to self (so I don't have to look all this up again):

oil change on centerstand, check with dipstick resting on neck, next oil change before 41k, PL14610

Thanks all.

Calling anyone with a 3gen ............ Does the dip stick go all the way in to check oil, or rest it on the neck to check?
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I agree with tbzep...when the tranny gets irritable. That's anywhere over 3K typically...I use synthetics. Don't forget it's not that the oil loses its ability to lubricate or keep viscosity...it's how much metal shavings, sand and fecal matter that's held in suspension that requires the oil & filter be changed. I spoil my girls and each one treats me special.

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I know it's been a few miles since I've done my last oil change on my '91, so I looked up the recommended interval. The manual says (after the first one of course) the oil change interval is 8000 miles. 8000 miles? That seems a bit far, at least to me. So my question to you is, how long do you wait?

Lets see, HONDA suggest 8k change intervals and that's using their crap dino oil, but the oil industry started something many years ago! :ph34r:

The 3k oil change interval ad campaign! :unclesam:

The 3k change interval that's imprinted in everyone's brain is proof that the Oil Industry's ad campaign(read brainwashing) was a Huge success.

They more then double their profits because of this very successful campaign. Just think how much less foreign oil we would be buying if everyone just switched to very reasonable 6k change intervals. :huh: What kills me is people running full syn oil are still changing at the 3k interval. WOW!

The ONLY way to know your oil needs changing at 3,6, 9, 12, or 15k is through Oil Analysis and unless it shows your oil breaking down it's a complete waste of time, money and resources.

Of course that's just my opinion! :rolleyes:

BR

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I know it's been a few miles since I've done my last oil change on my '91, so I looked up the recommended interval. The manual says (after the first one of course) the oil change interval is 8000 miles. 8000 miles? That seems a bit far, at least to me. So my question to you is, how long do you wait?

Lets see, HONDA suggest 8k change intervals and that's using their crap dino oil, but the oil industry started something many years ago! :ph34r:

The 3k oil change interval ad campaign! :unclesam:

The 3k change interval that's imprinted in everyone's brain is proof that the Oil Industry's ad campaign(read brainwashing) was a Huge success.

They more then double their profits because of this very successful campaign. Just think how much less foreign oil we would be buying if everyone just switched to very reasonable 6k change intervals. :huh: What kills me is people running full syn oil are still changing at the 3k interval. WOW!

The ONLY way to know your oil needs changing at 3,6, 9, 12, or 15k is through Oil Analysis and unless it shows your oil breaking down it's a complete waste of time, money and resources.

Of course that's just my opinion! :rolleyes:

BR

There you go trying to create dissention in the ranks again......... way to go..........
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I know it's been a few miles since I've done my last oil change on my '91, so I looked up the recommended interval. The manual says (after the first one of course) the oil change interval is 8000 miles. 8000 miles? That seems a bit far, at least to me. So my question to you is, how long do you wait?

Lets see, HONDA suggest 8k change intervals and that's using their crap dino oil, but the oil industry started something many years ago! :ph34r:

The 3k oil change interval ad campaign! :unclesam:

The 3k change interval that's imprinted in everyone's brain is proof that the Oil Industry's ad campaign(read brainwashing) was a Huge success.

They more then double their profits because of this very successful campaign. Just think how much less foreign oil we would be buying if everyone just switched to very reasonable 6k change intervals. :huh: What kills me is people running full syn oil are still changing at the 3k interval. WOW!

The ONLY way to know your oil needs changing at 3,6, 9, 12, or 15k is through Oil Analysis and unless it shows your oil breaking down it's a complete waste of time, money and resources.

Of course that's just my opinion! :rolleyes:

BR

There you go trying to create dissention in the ranks again......... way to go..........

I can't ride, so I have to stir things up a little. :tongue:

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I just drove my truck about 8,000 miles on a oil change, course it has near 100,000 miles so the oil holds up better, if you kept the oil clean in the early miles of life. Same goes with all motors.

The vfr I run car oil about 1500/2000 mile, diesil oil about 2500/3000 mile. Synthitic oil contaminates just like dino, so unless running a heavy weight, its degrading just like the dino. If you want to be smart with savings, find those dino's which have synthetic componentry, but dont advertise it, cause labled synthetic, they'd have to charge more.

Like Delo 15w40, or Exxon superflow, these dinos are not cheap dinos

Oreilies auto parts, their brand supply oil is Exxon superflow, for $2.99 a quart, a cheap oil change for your bike.

I raced with car oil in my motorcycles for years, excellent clutch life, friend of mine went 6 month on Belray tranny oil, his clutch was totally trashed, not because of motorcycle oil, but because he didnt change it.

Thats the key, no matter the quality of oil, you got to change it.

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I know it's been a few miles since I've done my last oil change on my '91, so I looked up the recommended interval. The manual says (after the first one of course) the oil change interval is 8000 miles. 8000 miles? That seems a bit far, at least to me. So my question to you is, how long do you wait?

Lets see, HONDA suggest 8k change intervals and that's using their crap dino oil, but the oil industry started something many years ago! :ph34r:

The 3k oil change interval ad campaign! :unclesam:

The 3k change interval that's imprinted in everyone's brain is proof that the Oil Industry's ad campaign(read brainwashing) was a Huge success.

They more then double their profits because of this very successful campaign. Just think how much less foreign oil we would be buying if everyone just switched to very reasonable 6k change intervals. :huh: What kills me is people running full syn oil are still changing at the 3k interval. WOW!

The ONLY way to know your oil needs changing at 3,6, 9, 12, or 15k is through Oil Analysis and unless it shows your oil breaking down it's a complete waste of time, money and resources.

Of course that's just my opinion! :rolleyes:

BR

That's why I change based on shifting instead of mileage. If it gets clunky and I have a false neutral or two, it's time to change it, not because it is damaging my engine, but because I like that smooth butter shifting I get from 15w50 synth. That was usually around 4-5k for my 2004. The 2008 is clunky as heck now and needs to get that Honda oil out and Mobil 1 in. :fing02:

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Oil change huh? I'm with BaileyRock on this one; VERY successful advertising campaign!

I run all my cars at 10k MILE intervals. e.g.

'90 Jeep: 225,000 miles and still strong (well, you know, leaks like a Jeep :rolleyes: uses about 1.5 qts per change).

'91 Civic: 325,000 miles, getting tired. I have more clutch problems than anything though. (retired, due to confrontation with Dodge Ram :huh: )

'99 Suburban: 200,000 miles, burnt exhaust valve cylinder 2. (not entirely sure this was oil change related, could have been wife's fault :491: )

'03 Stratus: 200,000 miles, still strong (rebuilt tranny at 150k)

'04 Passat: 150,000 miles, just a pup (10k intervals in owners manual anyways)

'02 VFR: 54,000 miles, still strong (... except for the whole stator thing :mad: , could that be oil change related?)

Anywho, I tend to have more trouble with trannies than engines. The way I got it figured the manufacturers numbers probably have a little built-in cushion also, so the less oil I buy (fuel or otherwise) the better. In my opinion.

P.S. Opinions are like armpits, everyone has at least two of them, and usually they both stink :laughing6-hehe:

P.P.S. I know I have to thin the stable a little bit, maybe to make room for more bikes. First world problem-I know! :blink:

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How much oil did your jeep burn when it was new?

At some point it developed enough wear to burn oil, if runnig 10,000 mile oil changes I'm sure that shortened the wear life of parts, with excess particulate in the oil.

If its burning oil, the test is over(or useless) as far as im concerned, about the longest Ive kept a car was 150,000 mile, with zero oil burn. far far from 10,000 mile oil changes though.

My present chvy colorado has 100,000 mile with zero oil burn, its early life it saw 3,000 mile changes, in these high milege years I'll go 60 to 8,000 mile. This is a vehicle that will see 200,000 mile though. It starts burning, I'll look to get rid of it.

I bought a 3/4 ton chevy many years ago. The salesman said they loosened the rings to get better fuel milege, I didnt acknowledge what he said. But damn sure that truck would burn a quart in 3,000 miles, Pissed me off, I dumoed that sucker at 56,000 miles, I dont put up with oil burn. Gas was $1.65 cents back then and I thought that was high.

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Nah, I think based on the (unmeasured) puddle in my driveway most of it is escaping. Being that it was an old GM/AMC designed engine that Chrysler got it's sticky fingerprints all over I'm actually surprised it went over 200k :ohmy:

I'm a chevy guy, so I have just come to expect being a quart low all the time. And frankly I have a very hard time believing someone could achieve zero loss. Most engines are designed to sacrifice a little for the good of the parts.

Obligatory VFR content: I wish the oil filter wasn't directly over the exhaust pipes on the sixth gen :mad:

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The VFR is the longest motorcyle ive kept , 100,000 miles doesnt burn a drop. Having said that, I know a gs 500 rider (aircooled) 3k change intervals, he started burniing oil around 60,000 mile.

If you get a motor that doesn burn oil, its preventing wear to where it will begin, oil has always been the life blood of a motor, although oil has improved, that still holds true even today.

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Hooboy! An oil thread!

  • Oil change once a season=3,000-5,000 miles.
  • Oil (currently) Castrol Actevo X-tra 4T 10W40 semi-synthetic.
  • Filter change every time.
  • Magnetic drain plug.

The Castrol I'm currently running (Actevo) works pretty well. I started out with Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W40--very nice, but expensive in these parts ($18 CAD/litre). Then I tried Castrol Grand Prix four-stroke 10W40 motorcycle oil (mineral based, non synthetic). This stuff works great in my air cooled thumper, but caused clunky shifting in the VFR. (Which makes me question the "change the oil when the shifting gets notchy" school, since the dino Castrol was clunky right from the start.)

So far I've used only Bosch and Honda oil filters. If I were racking up more miles and changing oil more often I would experiment more, but since this is working out to be a once a season thing for me, I may go back to the fully synthetic Mobil 1 after I use up my last jug of Actevo. I agree with Spud, oil is the life blood of an engine.

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(Which makes me question the "change the oil when the shifting gets notchy" school, since the dino Castrol was clunky right from the start.)

If you will note my posts, I use Mobil 1 15w50 synthetic for butter smooth shifting. :tour:

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