Member Contributer gll429 Posted September 10, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted September 10, 2012 it NOT an oil issue... and use 10w 40 oil.. when you change it., most people use mobile 1.. but its up to you.. i use baby oil.. made from fresh squeezed babies this not an oil thread. now that you see the wear on the basket case carefully file them smooth. remove as little as possible... but get the them smooth. this WILL make a difference. in anycase.. order some new friction plates and springs and put them in. personally i use barnett.. the hold up to the crazy monster 150ci HDs very well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WGREGT Posted September 10, 2012 Author Share Posted September 10, 2012 For me, I can probably rule out the oil. Always Honda 10w-40 GN4. Changed it about 500 miles ago, and every 3000 miles with a new oil & honda OEM filter. New parts ordered. Will report back when I get them in the bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WGREGT Posted September 17, 2012 Author Share Posted September 17, 2012 Update: new fiber clutch plates, new fiber B plate, and all new clutch springs installed. All OEM parts. Put 30 miles on it today going to work and....still slips. In 2nd gear @ about 9k, it surges briefly and immediately goes to redline (and past) and revs as if I'm in neutral, even though I am not. If I let off of it a little and it drops to 7-8k or so, it still pulls and rides fine. I think it's only in 2nd gear. Never saw the neutral light on the dash light up at all. Is there some way this could be electrical making it cut out like this? If not, I suppose the next step is to yank the engine and replace the gears in the tranny? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mk2davis Posted September 17, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted September 17, 2012 I don't see how this could be an electrical issue. Of course taking a peak at the tranny would answer a lot of questions, it doesn't seem like it's your gears. I know many people here know more than I, but usually gears missing teeth make horrible sounds. I wish I could help more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WGREGT Posted September 17, 2012 Author Share Posted September 17, 2012 There is no metal or shavings in the oil at all. I strained it coming out and going in. Nothing left in the pan. No grinding sounds, no clunking, no gearbox noise or vibrations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 If it were electrical, the engine would slow down, not speed up. As in the ignition cutting out or something. You are hearing an audible increase in engine speed which corresponds to the tach reading, yes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WGREGT Posted September 17, 2012 Author Share Posted September 17, 2012 If it were electrical, the engine would slow down, not speed up. As in the ignition cutting out or something. You are hearing an audible increase in engine speed which corresponds to the tach reading, yes? Yes. It really sounds and acts like I pulled in the clutch lever @ 8-9k while still on the gas, and it revs to redline (and past it if I let it). I don't go any faster, the engine revs to the moon instantly. The whole time I don't touch the clutch lever at all. Only happens in 2nd right now (didn't have the room this am to try out anything above 4th, and I didn't get above about 5k in 4th today.) If I let off the gas, it'll come back down to 7k or so, and resume riding and pulling like normal. Until I get close to 9k again, and then it repeats. At about 9k it has a stutter (which is me thinking it may be electrical when this happens?), then immediately and easily swoops right to redline, even though I don't move the throttle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WGREGT Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 I rode home and when I shifted it into 2nd, I tried to keep it there with my foot, but it made no difference: it gets almost uncontrollably jerky from about 7k on up, alternatively moving forward, grabbing and letting go, and then reving high and going no where, all without touching the lever, and holding steady (not increasing noticeably) the gas. One time the neutral light popped on, I was in neutral (all revs, no forward movement) like I missed a gear, though I'm sure I didn't. I tried to pull it into 2nd, then keep the shifter up, but all it did was go into 3rd. When I got home I doubled-checked the tightness of the chain (all good) and noticed the shifter peg, while not rotating on the splined shaft, did have some play in it, so I tightened it up. Will ride tomorrow and see if it made any difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 Sounds like someone abused the hell out of your bike. The stutter is your trans intermittently catching second. You have a worn/bent shift fork. Your fix is to take apart the motor and replace the fork, although, if I were in your shoes, I would look for a lower mileage motor and do a simple motor swap. Then sell the old one for parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WGREGT Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 Riding hard and shifting is abuse? I swear, I don't get it. I've never missed a shift on this bike...are they not meant to be ridden hard? Am I supposed to ride hard only in 1st, and 3rd-6th? Yeah, I've accelerated hard while in 1st, shifted to 2nd, then accelerated hard to 3rd, and so on....now & then when time/space allows. I thought it was a bike, not a mini-van. What a grand disappointment due only to...riding it like a bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 Have you owned it since new? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer V-FORE Posted September 18, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted September 18, 2012 Have you checked the clutch fluid? I had read somewhere there is a tiny opening in the reservoir that when plugged can cause the same symptoms, just an idea there might be some goo plugging up something? I agree with most others, if trans was the issue it would be constant, you replaced the clutch pack & its still doing the same thing..... Just a guess since I try the easiest thing first. I have not had any issues with mine yet & at 91K she still can make me smile when twisting the throttle Good luck Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WGREGT Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 I have not owned it since new, but I bought it from a friend (who bought it new in 94) when he decided motorcycling was not for him for the grand sum of....$300 (long story). He wanted it gone RIGHT NOW to make space in the garage for a Porsche he could race. Anyhow, he put about 15k on it over 10 years or so. I know the guy...he was not hard on it. I keep all the fluids clean and neat, but it's worth a check. If it's something easy like that I will buy every person on this board a beer. Otherwise, I just rode it into work...and it is damn near unrideable at this point. I can short-shift and only stay in 2nd for a brief time, but otherwise it bucks too much (and too consistently in the same place on tach and in the same gear) to make me think it is anything simple. I can't imagine anything in the reservoir would cause it to be so spot-on in the same place every time, but it's worth a look. I'll report back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 I had it happen to my VF700F. It's the shift fork. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted September 18, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted September 18, 2012 so said the edge off the clutch basket had groves worn in to it.. did you file them down? thats important! as the plates will stick if its not smooth.. and you did soak the new clutch plates.. right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WGREGT Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 Yep. Did both of those things. Soaked for 48 hours (not needed, but I couldn't get back to it once I started putting it back together). Filed the grooves with a dremel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 I don't know if this is related to your problem but wanted to share my experience (and waste of money) in case it helps. Long story short: My clutch slipped when the bike was hot. I spoke with Honda dealer to no avail. New clutch disks (twice), steel plates, springs, clutch hose, rebuilt master and slave. Problem persisted. Solution per Moto Grand Prix Racer's suggestion. Took the Master Cylinder apart and cleaned the weep hole out using a needle (previously cleaned with pick). It had gunk blocking the hole which did not alllow the pressure in the line to relase and equalize. When things got hot pressure would build up in the Slave cylinder and the clutch would start to slip. Let it cool and the problem would go away. Cleaned the hole, problem solved. Now, if I had read this post before spending $300. I paid for college, I guess this learning experience is no different. BTW, the bike had 18,500 miles at the time. If anybody is in need a good set of steels w/18k and a set of clutch disks with less than 1000 miles on them, give me a shout (sorry, no springs). Good luck finding your Gremlin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beck Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 I'm not really sure what can be considered as "abuse" with a VFR engine. They are considered by many as quite bulletproof to start with....but then I kinda have to wince, every time you mention that you bounce your engine against the rev limiter and redline, and it seems quite often from what you had described to us. I guess you can call me a redline wimp, but I don't think I hit the limiter on my bike more than twice or three times on my 4th gen since I bought it in 1995...... Beck 95 VFR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WGREGT Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 Oh, I take the bike to redline alright, but I shift before it hits the limiter and before it sweeps the red zone. And I use the clutch for every shift. And it got me...nowhere, in regards to longevity. I don't use the rev limiter as a suggestion on when to shift though. I've ridden with guys like that. Too funny. I get out of it before it gets that far, and get into the next gear. But yeah, each gear is usually under load. I'm riding...I'm not in a parade procession. That's what Gold/Old Wings are for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WGREGT Posted November 8, 2012 Author Share Posted November 8, 2012 UPDATE: Sorry this update has taken so long, but here's where things are: I dropped the engine, split the cases, and found.....a bent shift fork. Pretty significant scarring/gouging on one side of one fork, and the peg/dog for 2nd gear that moves inside the long slot to engage the gear has been significantly rounded off on one side. So, all together I need about $500 in parts for o-rings, gears, gaskets, etc, which I have ordered, and I'm sending the tranny out to be up & down race cut so this won't happen again. Should have it rolling out of my garage in a week or so if all goes well timing-wise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 Couldn't find a used engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WGREGT Posted November 8, 2012 Author Share Posted November 8, 2012 Didn't even look for one. Didn't want someone else's problems in addition to my own on this one. At least with mine, I know the history of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NakedViffer Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 Didn't even look for one. Didn't want someone else's problems in addition to my own on this one. At least with mine, I know the history of it. Buying a VFR engine is very unlike buying other motorcycle engines. These things are almost always ridden by older, respectful riders that take care of them. I got a used 97 engine for $500 shipped to my door, I've done nothing but beat the wheels off of it, and all its done is smile and take it. Of course, if I had a great running engine with only a second gear problem, I would fix it myself. Also, forget the clutch for up-shifting when you're really trying to get down the road, blip the throttle off and click the gear, your tranny will thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WGREGT Posted November 8, 2012 Author Share Posted November 8, 2012 yeah, I know that the demo for the Viffer rider is different than most. Still, it only cost me $500 in parts and a few hundred to have the tranny cut. No big deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Phantom Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 While you're doing the rebuild, strip the clutch slave cylinder down as well - it can gunk up and cause the piston to stick halfway down the bore, so the clutch never fully engages. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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