Member Contributer coderighter Posted September 9, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 9, 2011 Back in March I install A CompuFire "series" R/R. I've put a couple thousand miles on it and it works very well. It runs very cool., and under normal load it's cut my stator current in half . Notes: I made a bracket out of aluminum so I could turn the R/R 90 degrees, putting the fins in the air flow. I used the factory wire to the battery but made a branch circuit at the R/R to power the headlights. This lowers the current on the stock wire by at least 30%. This also makes the lights brighter do to less voltage loss. I fused it at 10 amps. I removed the stupid extra white nylon connector by the battery and replace the fuse holder with a bladed fuse, less connections. Mount plate splice Reg 2 Reg 3 fuse Reg 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snake Posted September 9, 2011 Share Posted September 9, 2011 where did you get the connecters for the three yellow wires to match the connecter on the compufire rr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer coderighter Posted September 9, 2011 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 9, 2011 where did you get the connecters for the three yellow wires to match the connecter on the compufire rr Believe it or not, Napa Auto Parts. I found out online that there are an authorized dealer. My local store had them in stock. Just take the end that comes with the CompuFire with you. The wires only reach if you mount the R/R with the wires pointing in the direction of the yellow leads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted September 9, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 9, 2011 Nice --- thanks for the photos - -- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snake Posted September 10, 2011 Share Posted September 10, 2011 where did you get the connecters for the three yellow wires to match the connecter on the compufire rr Believe it or not, Napa Auto Parts. I found out online that there are an authorized dealer. My local store had them in stock. Just take the end that comes with the CompuFire with you. The wires only reach if you mount the R/R with the wires pointing in the direction of the yellow leads. do u have the part number for that connecter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer DaveB Posted September 10, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 10, 2011 Glad to hear someone else has successfully gone the series R&R route. I installed mine back in April. I like the way you took the wiring directly to the lights and the battery, I just went directly to the battery. Do you think it was worth making the bracket to orientate the cooling fins with the air flow. I just mounted mine with the existing holes and it runs nice and cool despite the fins being in the wrong orientation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beck Posted September 10, 2011 Share Posted September 10, 2011 How is that mounting plate mounted on to the frame spar? Did you use a "Rivnut" threaded insert on the threaded hole? If you didn't, consider doing so as it would make for a more stable/stronger mechanical connection, plus it will give you a chance to clean up the holes you drilled into the spar so you don't have any sharp edges/stress risers. Beck 95 VFR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted September 10, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 10, 2011 I broke down and finally whipped out the credit card and ordered one these R/Rs.... I'll do the photo thing on my install. - I like that bracket idea......... ------------------ PS - one stocker '98 - '99, 5th gen "upgraded" OEM R/R for sale. 13.8v at 5000rpm. 3000 miles old.-- $70 shipped Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer rangemaster Posted September 10, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 10, 2011 VERY slick installation. Could you possibly explain in a bit more detail/diagram: made a branch circuit at the R/R to power the headlights. This lowers the current on the stock wire by at least 30%. This also makes the lights brighter do to less voltage loss. I fused it at 10 amps. I'm guessing you made a "Y" branch off the R/R positive and went strait to the headlights how? Handlebar switch, fusebox? GREAT idea, just trying to figure out how to do it, I've done everything else to the electrical for reliability I can think of. Thnks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer coderighter Posted September 11, 2011 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2011 where did you get the connecters for the three yellow wires to match the connecter on the compufire rr Believe it or not, Napa Auto Parts. I found out online that there are an authorized dealer. My local store had them in stock. Just take the end that comes with the CompuFire with you. The wires only reach if you mount the R/R with the wires pointing in the direction of the yellow leads. do u have the part number for that connecter? No, sorry. I just took the CompuFire plug with me and the Napa clerk had a catalog and we just matched it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer coderighter Posted September 11, 2011 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2011 Glad to hear someone else has successfully gone the series R&R route. I installed mine back in April. I like the way you took the wiring directly to the lights and the battery, I just went directly to the battery. Do you think it was worth making the bracket to orientate the cooling fins with the air flow. I just mounted mine with the existing holes and it runs nice and cool despite the fins being in the wrong orientation. Well heat doesn't seem to be a problem with these R/R but I don't really know that for sure until I tried it. However, by mounting it that way the R/R input leads reach to the stator lead perfectly. Beside, more cooling never hurt a R/R. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer coderighter Posted September 11, 2011 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2011 How is that mounting plate mounted on to the frame spar? Did you use a "Rivnut" threaded insert on the threaded hole? If you didn't, consider doing so as it would make for a more stable/stronger mechanical connection, plus it will give you a chance to clean up the holes you drilled into the spar so you don't have any sharp edges/stress risers. Beck 95 VFR The frame has threaded inserts so I just countersunk flat head bolts into the 3/8 plate I made. To mount the R/R to the plate, I used threaded inserts. After I test fit everything, I removed the inserts, gave them a light coating of JB weld, and put them back in the plate. A Helicoil would have worked also, but I had the inserts handy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer coderighter Posted September 11, 2011 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2011 VERY slick installation. Could you possibly explain in a bit more detail/diagram: made a branch circuit at the R/R to power the headlights. This lowers the current on the stock wire by at least 30%. This also makes the lights brighter do to less voltage loss. I fused it at 10 amps. I'm guessing you made a "Y" branch off the R/R positive and went strait to the headlights how? Handlebar switch, fusebox? GREAT idea, just trying to figure out how to do it, I've done everything else to the electrical for reliability I can think of. Thnks! In my post there is a picture of a splice with three wires. The two to the left are the R/R output and the bike feed. The wire on the right is my headlight branch circuit with a fuse holder. I have HID lights so I have separate relays that switch the branch to the ballasts. You could do the same with the stock lights or order a HID kit from Tightwad. Full disclosure- I make the latching relay and delay relay for Tightwad's HID kits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer rangemaster Posted September 11, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2011 VERY slick installation. Could you possibly explain in a bit more detail/diagram: made a branch circuit at the R/R to power the headlights. This lowers the current on the stock wire by at least 30%. This also makes the lights brighter do to less voltage loss. I fused it at 10 amps. I'm guessing you made a "Y" branch off the R/R positive and went strait to the headlights how? Handlebar switch, fusebox? GREAT idea, just trying to figure out how to do it, I've done everything else to the electrical for reliability I can think of. Thnks! In my post there is a picture of a splice with three wires. The two to the left are the R/R output and the bike feed. The wire on the right is my headlight branch circuit with a fuse holder. I have HID lights so I have separate relays that switch the branch to the ballasts. You could do the same with the stock lights or order a HID kit from Tightwad. Full disclosure- I make the latching relay and delay relay for Tightwad's HID kits. Hey, no problem, thank you very much, sir. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JZH Posted September 12, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 12, 2011 where did you get the connecters for the three yellow wires to match the connecter on the compufire rr Believe it or not, Napa Auto Parts. I found out online that there are an authorized dealer. My local store had them in stock. Just take the end that comes with the CompuFire with you. The wires only reach if you mount the R/R with the wires pointing in the direction of the yellow leads. do u have the part number for that connecter? No, sorry. I just took the CompuFire plug with me and the Napa clerk had a catalog and we just matched it up. It's a fairly common sealed automotive connector called a Weather-Pack (pn.12015793, I believe). It is very similar to the ones I'm using, which are called Metri-Pack and made by Delphi. (They are both made by Delphi, actually: http://delphi.com/manufacturers/cv/connection-systems/. For some strange reason CompuFire just gives you one half of the connector and the housing for the other half...? I ended up going with the Metri-Packs because of the wider range of products, and excellent availability through places like Mouser and Waytek. Ciao, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer coderighter Posted September 13, 2011 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 13, 2011 Here's a link to the NAPA page. I believe the part # is NW725170. https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt=Weather-pack&Ntk=Keyword&Nty=1&Dn=0&D=Weather-pack&Dk=1&Dp=3&N=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 They give you the housing but not the connectors? I used to use those connectors (1 wire) on the VFRness with fusepanel, but I quit in favor of a simple bullet. Any 3 wire connection should work...bummer that they didn't give enough extra wire with the R/R, if you ever have an issue and have to redo you might be pushing the limit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer coderighter Posted September 14, 2011 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 14, 2011 They give you the housing but not the connectors? I used to use those connectors (1 wire) on the VFRness with fusepanel, but I quit in favor of a simple bullet. Any 3 wire connection should work...bummer that they didn't give enough extra wire with the R/R, if you ever have an issue and have to redo you might be pushing the limit. Ya, not sure what they're thinking by not including the connectors. I do like the fact that they are weather tight. I believe if all the connectors on the bike were weather tight, a lot of these 'wiring problem' would not exist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer coderighter Posted May 11, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted May 11, 2012 Just an update. It's been over a year now and all has been perfect. I know not really much of an update, but no news is good news. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Misspent Youth Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 Just an update. It's been over a year now and all has been perfect. I know not really much of an update, but no news is good news. Amen. Thanks for the update. This change is on my to-do list. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted May 11, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted May 11, 2012 Just an update. It's been over a year now and all has been perfect. I know not really much of an update, but no news is good news. I only have a few months running on mine, but its working just fine. I would guess it runs at a whole 105 degrees, based on the hand touch test. The old stocker would burn me if I touched it more than 2 seconds. - I would def do this again. How many CF R/Rs do we have on VFRs here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Misspent Youth Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 Just an update. It's been over a year now and all has been perfect. I know not really much of an update, but no news is good news. How many CF R/Rs do we have on VFRs here? Don't know, maybe 3 or 4. I know there's at least one on the Triumph speed triple board - he's happy, too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 Haven't installed mine yet, but I sure like the sound of "no news is good news" Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer coderighter Posted May 12, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted May 12, 2012 Just an update. It's been over a year now and all has been perfect. I know not really much of an update, but no news is good news. I only have a few months running on mine, but its working just fine. I would guess it runs at a whole 105 degrees, based on the hand touch test. The old stocker would burn me if I touched it more than 2 seconds. - I would def do this again. How many CF R/Rs do we have on VFRs here? On mine, the frame is always hotter than the R/R. Just for the record, I'm running 35w HID's and all LED's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandyRedRC46 Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 i have one on my bike too. it runs very cool. i have led's, hid's, and a vfrness. everything seems good, unless i go over 11,000 rpms, then my voltage spikes. not too much of a problem though, the voltage stays normal if i manually turn my fan on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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