Soldering Tips

[jaimev34]

I'm planning on installing a rear brake light modulator (Signal Dynamics - Back Off, to be exact) and I plan on doing it right by using a soldering iron. I usually do it the half-assed way, which is to remove the rubber sheath from each wire, then twist the wires and wrap the connected wires with electrical tape.

My questions are, being that I'm a soldering novice: where is a good place to buy a soldering iron? Do I need one with a temperature control? What would be the proper way of soldering something like this?

Thanks in advance!

UPDATE: I just got done soldering some wires from a radar detector to my license plate light wires!! First time soldering and it worked.

[checksix]

If you've got a Radio Shack (or whatever they're calling it these days) just get a cheap 35 watt soldering iron and some rosin core solder. Practice on some lamp cord or junk copper wire you've got lying around until you can get a nice bright joint with no dry or lumpy spots. If you search the internet there are plenty of soldering tutorials to help.

[SEBSPEED]

[mello dude]

^^^^ Thanks Seb, soldering is one thing that drives me wacko, I usually make a mess of it. :laughing6-hehe:

[SEBSPEED]

^^^^ Thanks Seb, soldering is one thing that drives me wacko, I usually make a mess of it. :laughing6-hehe:

As the saying goes...practice makes perfect.

[jaimev34]

Thanks for the replies, guys. As always, VFRD is a fountain of information.

[Rice]

I use butane soldering iron. No electicity to worry about and it develops enough heat to heat up any thickness of wire, which is typically a problem with electric iron.

Before twisting the two wires together, I dip them in flux - the one sold for plumbing. That way once heated up, the solder penetrates all threads and sticks immediately.

The whole procedure takes seconds. then the joint can be wrapped with electical tape.

[checksix]

I dip them in flux - the one sold for plumbing.

Plumbing flux contains acids and is generally not a good idea for electrical/electronic work. Rosin core flux should really be used. You can buy a little tub of it along with the solder and iron.

[ECX585]

checksix is correct--make sure the flux is a "no clean" solution. heat shrink tubing works nicely to insulate your exposed wire.

[Guest]

checksix is correct--make sure the flux is a "no clean" solution. heat shrink tubing works nicely to insulate your exposed wire.

Beat me to it,lol NO TAPE!!! lol ;) Make sure you tin the tip or it will never flow I went through 3 "broken" soldering irons from Wal-Mart before I figured it out :) Just my 2c Good Luck!

[jeremy556]

checksix is correct--make sure the flux is a "no clean" solution. heat shrink tubing works nicely to insulate your exposed wire.

This. Plus use two layers of heat shrink - one just large enough to cover the solder joint, and another that covers the first layer and a couple inches of insulated wire in each direction. Also, if you have multiple junctions in the same wire harness, stagger the splices so you don't end up with a huge lump of splices.

[dutchinterceptor]

checksix is correct--make sure the flux is a "no clean" solution. heat shrink tubing works nicely to insulate your exposed wire.

This. Plus use two layers of heat shrink - one just large enough to cover the solder joint, and another that covers the first layer and a couple inches of insulated wire in each direction. Also, if you have multiple junctions in the same wire harness, stagger the splices so you don't end up with a huge lump of splices.

Very good information! :fing02:

I've been pleased with my Weller like this one and have been using it for a few years. Definitely get an iron stand too so you don't burn yourself or set something on fire.....not that I've ever done that. :warranty:

My new favorite though is a butane iron and it's about all I use any more unless I'm doing something large. The blow torch tip works great for cinching up the heat shrink tubing!

A little overkill but one of these wire holding gizmos works as a third hand. It's virtually impossible to hold two wires together along with an iron and roll of solder without assistance although I'm sure most of us have tried.

[vfrcapn]

checksix is correct--make sure the flux is a "no clean" solution. heat shrink tubing works nicely to insulate your exposed wire.

This. Plus use two layers of heat shrink - one just large enough to cover the solder joint, and another that covers the first layer and a couple inches of insulated wire in each direction. Also, if you have multiple junctions in the same wire harness, stagger the splices so you don't end up with a huge lump of splices.

Very good information! :warranty:

I've been pleased with my Weller like this one and have been using it for a few years. Definitely get an iron stand too so you don't burn yourself or set something on fire.....not that I've ever done that. :biggrin:

My new favorite though is a butane iron and it's about all I use any more unless I'm doing something large. The blow torch tip works great for cinching up the heat shrink tubing!

A little overkill but one of these wire holding gizmos works as a third hand. It's virtually impossible to hold two wires together along with an iron and roll of solder without assistance although I'm sure most of us have tried.

:biggrin: on the 3rd hand clip gizmo. I picked one up at Harbor Freight IIRC, for probably less than $10. If you get a butane type iron make sure it's a good sized one like above. I've got a little hobby style that isn't good for much more than a couple 18-20g wires. I use a Weller iron like the one above for most projects.

I think my first paid job was when I was about 12 working for my dad, soldering replacement ROM's into cable TV boxes for about $.50/ea. :fing02:

[jaimev34]

Yeah, found it all at Radioshack's website. Pick it up tomorrow.

Thanks!

[Tightwad]

All good advice!

I personally use 2 irons...I have a heavy duty Weller soldering gun that I use for my production work, and an adjustable temp iron that I use for circuit boards and other smaller work. It will do bigger wires but I prefer my gun.

I also suggest using the thinnest solder (.032), and avoid the temptation to let the iron melt it....melt a bit on the iron to "tin" it, then make sure the wire is hot enough to melt the solder...it will just flow right in when the temp is right.

For circuit boards I usually set my adjustable iron to 310 degrees....I like to avoid destroying components. even then you have to be quick! This is the iron I have, I love it:

Soldering irons

[jaimev34]

I just got done soldering some wires from a radar detector to my license plate light wires!! First time soldering and it worked.

Got a two-setting soldering iron from Radioshack. It has a 15 Watt and a 30 Watt setting. I got some rosin core 60/40 solder. I waited for the soldering iron to get hot, then I tinned it with some solder. Next, I placed the iron under the wires to heat them up. Then I placed the solder on top of the heated wires and voila! The only problem was that the tip was getting solder caked on it from the tinning and from the runoff from the soldering wires. I didn't have a moist sponge or rag to wipe it off on, so I used a paper towel. I soldered two wires, but I noticed that the second one was harder for the solder to melt. Would a moist sponge/rag clean the tip of the iron much better?

Felt good to get it right.

[Tightwad]

To clean your soldering iron, get it hot, then dip it into a sponge that is wet, but not dripping. Most solder stations have a spot for a sponge (which dries when not in use and blows away). If the wires are different thicknesses, concentrate the heat on the thicker wire.

[spud786]

Yeah, found it all at Radioshack's website. Pick it up tomorrow.

Thanks!

a 25 watt, has decent melt and not to hot to do electrical damage , less wattage tends to be harder to melt

i hate the wait for melting

the double shring tube (sizing) is a good idea. watch out you keep the shrink tube away from the melting spot or it will start shrinking, earlier than you want.

[blkrabit]

Tip: don't blow on the solder joint thinking it will make it cool faster; the moisture in your breath will screw it up.

[TheBigCheese]

Lots of great advice, here's a few more tips:

This shrink tubing has hot melt glue inside, and forms a nice watertight seal. You can get it in bulk at electronic houses too. If it doesn't quite shrink tight to the wire, press it lightly while warm to form the seal.

http://easternbeaver...shrinktube.html

For tip cleaning, I like to use a product like this. It's just a random web link, I've had the same can for 20 years. It picks up blobs of melted solder but that doesn't hurt.

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/21-1075&CAWELAID=220234548

There is another type that I've never used:

http://www.allelectr...AL-STAND/1.html

I get pretty lazy and have had very good luck with Posi-locks, even in harsh underbelly applications with lots of road grime and water. I carry 10 in each size for road repairs - along with a yard of zip wire.

http://easternbeaver.../posi-lock.html

I've actually done one successful road repair with a cold fusion soldering iron. It was a break in a cable harness, so there wasn't enough pig-tail for the posi-locks and a butane torch might have been exciting near gasoline. But now I just rely on the posi-locks and accept that there are some repairs I won't be able to do.

http://www.amazon.co...sl_3dl2k6hds2_b

This has some close-up stills of the wire splice technique shown in the second video.

http://www.instructa...lice-everytime/

[Tightwad]

Nice links, but NEVER pay $1 for 4" of heat shrink...1/4" heat shrink is only $2.50 for 4 feet. Of course it helps if you buy in bulk already, but send me a PM and I will throw some in an envelope if you cover the costs.

[TheBigCheese]

Nice links, but NEVER pay $1 for 4" of heat shrink...1/4" heat shrink is only $2.50 for 4 feet. Of course it helps if you buy in bulk already, but send me a PM and I will throw some in an envelope if you cover the costs.

Agreed - for regular heat shrink. Adhesive lined is more expensive. But it's worth it if you want a waterproof seal.

You can get it in higher qty, here's where I bought last, $8 for 4' of 3/8" is still pricey.

http://www.cableties...ink-Tubing.aspx