Member Contributer redmarque Posted November 23, 2009 Author Member Contributer Share Posted November 23, 2009 Just thought i'd let you guys know what's happening... I've had a couple of email communications with Norman Hossack which has been quite usful. Norman stated in one of his emails that he wouldn't build one of his designs with less than 24 degrees rake.. i'm still waiting for a reply as to why he thinks that - will have to wait and see.. seams to have the opposite opinion to others. Based on this and my own thoughts I've decided to relax the rake angle on the design from 17 to 20 Degrees, mainly this will allow the handlebars to be nearer the rider and give the bike a more conventional look overall. (standard fairings should fit better) i'm still on the look out for a used cbr600rr top and middle panels but tempted to buy a race fairing because the're cheap and available. As to frame material 4130 now seams the best choice. my welding grasstrack friend tells me that he's found that it doesn't distort as much as T45 or CDS5 tube. Currently i'm calulating how much tube/steel i'll need to buy.. crunch time's here. Hand over the money! Red Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted November 23, 2009 Share Posted November 23, 2009 Nice to hear of some progress Andy. I wanted to ask, but figured you'd post when you had updates. :wheel: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2fast2young Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 So sweet! Keep at it, Red!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beck Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 Just thought i'd let you guys know what's happening... I've had a couple of email communications with Norman Hossack which has been quite usful. Norman stated in one of his emails that he wouldn't build one of his designs with less than 24 degrees rake.. i'm still waiting for a reply as to why he thinks that - will have to wait and see.. seams to have the opposite opinion to others. Based on this and my own thoughts I've decided to relax the rake angle on the design from 17 to 20 Degrees, mainly this will allow the handlebars to be nearer the rider and give the bike a more conventional look overall. (standard fairings should fit better) i'm still on the look out for a used cbr600rr top and middle panels but tempted to buy a race fairing because the're cheap and available. As to frame material 4130 now seams the best choice. my welding grasstrack friend tells me that he's found that it doesn't distort as much as T45 or CDS5 tube. Currently i'm calulating how much tube/steel i'll need to buy.. crunch time's here. Hand over the money! Red 4130, fantastic! it should come up to be a fine, strong and light frame for the bike. A "Reynolds TI" sticker on it might look good too, if that's what you will be using. Are you planning to powdercoat or polish/nickel chrome the frame..ala Harris?? I vote for powdercoat...red would be nice, but I've seen some black powdercoated frames on late model KTMs that also look great. Beck 95 VFR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 If you're going to powdercoat or paint the frame, I vote for a silver finish that "looks" somewhat like natural unfinished white metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer redmarque Posted December 5, 2009 Author Member Contributer Share Posted December 5, 2009 Cheers Guys! Powercoat satin black for the frame - or red not quite sure yet. mixture of Gloss and Matt Black bodywork... Like a KTM RC8R (big fan of these) I've picked up a 2005 Ducati 999 top fairing which could be good if I re-locate the stacked projector holes to side by side. now looking for the mid fairing sections. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 Cheers Guys! Powercoat satin black for the frame - or red not quite sure yet. mixture of Gloss and Matt Black bodywork... Like a KTM RC8R (big fan of these) I've picked up a 2005 Ducati 999 top fairing which could be good if I re-locate the stacked projector holes to side by side. now looking for the mid fairing sections. Check out the chinese kits, they're cheap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted December 17, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted December 17, 2009 (edited) I am just a spectator for this but - Very cool! - -- I am amazed by all the technical talent we have on this web site....... MD Edited December 18, 2009 by mello dude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
douglasthecook Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 Any progress??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer redmarque Posted January 22, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted January 22, 2010 Cheers Baketech - will have a look at that issue of BIKE. Hugo's Morlaco was a great infulence on my MK1 original design, which you've probably noticed! :fing02: Have you seen his Moto2 bike: www.bottpower.com As always I've had some non-bike projects/work have been in the way recently. Updates on the bike: Revised the latest design. Main tubes are 1.125 inch and joining tubes 1 inch. rear of fork legs are now 1.125 dia. Ordered the 4130 steel tubing yesterday - so hopefully will have something real/progress to show in the next couple of weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 More Hossack front end goodness: http://magpulronin.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer redmarque Posted January 22, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted January 22, 2010 (edited) Now that's a very cool looking machine.. frontend is a girder with headshock though. (like a confederate wraith) Edited January 22, 2010 by redmarque Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer redmarque Posted March 11, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 11, 2010 I know It’s been awhile… but I’ve had some time to spend on Mk2! Frame fixture/jig is almost complete, some shimming and repositioning will be required once the tubes are cut and in place. Tubing profiles are all unwrapped from the CAD model. Some scratching of head will be involved to make a template for the bent connecting top tube. Also the order in which the tubes must be fitted and welded has to be worked out so they all go in without problems. In preparation for reworking the rear sub-frame design, I’ve purchased a pattern rs125 seat unit. It will require some “modification” to blend from the tank cover… but I’m please with the general look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Vee-Ef-Ar Posted March 11, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted March 11, 2010 :wheel: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted March 11, 2010 Share Posted March 11, 2010 :cheerleader: Go Red Go! :cheerleader: :biggrin: I like the tail, I would love to see some flexible LED's grafted in there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer redmarque Posted March 11, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 11, 2010 You can always count on SEB for encouragement! Cheers! :cheerleader: Liking the LED stip tail-light idea too... how about a cylon/night rider effect on switch on? :cheerleader: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FLk0Ye2Vo7Y This has been very handy over the last few weeks.. making sure that the horizontal/verital tubes are perfectly alined to each other. It can be zeroed at any angle for reference and acurate to .1 Degrees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted March 11, 2010 Share Posted March 11, 2010 I've been looking locally for one of those angle finders, but haven't found one. I'm going to have to order one online, I'm sure I have a few uses for one! And yes, you can buy a module that will run your led's like that... :cheerleader: lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted March 11, 2010 Share Posted March 11, 2010 ps - got any close-ups of your 600RR/RC51 rear caliper mod? Or is it just a mock up right now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer redmarque Posted March 11, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 11, 2010 Got the angle gauge from 'ebay' for about £23 UK pounds. Here you go Seb. It's a cut and shut job of the standard 5th Gen mounting and a trimed down 600RR caliper mount with 8mm 6082 T6 plate shaped and welded in between (it's not my welding btw) I had to grind down the caliper's back to get the wheel spoke clearance. whether this setup will work well has yet to be proved as the caliper is back to front on the disc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted March 11, 2010 Share Posted March 11, 2010 Nice, thanks! I think it will work just the same facing in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer redmarque Posted March 11, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 11, 2010 Cut the front upright tubes using the paper profile and careful use of angle grider! Sure enough they fit perfectly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer magicman Posted March 11, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted March 11, 2010 I've been following this for quite a while, and I'm glad to see you getting it together. Take your time and get it right. The suspense is worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer redmarque Posted March 15, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 15, 2010 (edited) A VFRD Member asked me about my rear caliper mod and how I delt with the torque arm. So hopefully this will help explain with pictures.. I trimed off the orginal mounting from the existing torque arm plate. Backside of the caliper needed to be trimed down to miss the wheelspokes - there is still plenty of metal left Removed the CBR600RR axle mounting and mated between the two by welding in profiled 8mm thick 6082 plates If i was making this again I think I would have positioned the caliper upright or slightly forward of the axle. Replaced the stock mounting bolts with stainless items and machined the bolt heads to make the wheel sit flush. There's curtainly some weight loss over stock; plus mounting the caliper above the arm will cut down on the amount of dirt, brake dust and corrosion. Rear wavy disc is from "BRAKING" http://www.braking.com/bk/sito.asp?pag=4 Edited March 15, 2010 by redmarque Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted March 15, 2010 Share Posted March 15, 2010 I like your idea of moving the caliper forwards, it would have the benefit of positioning the bleeder nipple upright, so you could bleed the rear caliper without removing and repositioning it, which is one of my beefs with the stock 5th gen setup. Nice work Red, and I can't wait to see HossackViffer MK II on the road. You should powdercoat the frame Red like a Ducati! :blink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted March 15, 2010 Share Posted March 15, 2010 I like your idea of moving the caliper forwards, it would have the benefit of positioning the bleeder nipple upright, so you could bleed the rear caliper without removing and repositioning it, which is one of my beefs with the stock 5th gen setup. Nice work Red, and I can't wait to see HossackViffer MK II on the road. You should powdercoat the frame Red like a Ducati! :blink: CBR600F4i caliper has the same mounting pattern, but the banjo bolt and bleeder are swapped. Little known fact. :beer: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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