Jump to content

Voltmeter


Monk

Recommended Posts

Bumping back to life:

Monk,

How is your voltmeter holding up to the elements after you "water proofed" it? Also, how did you mount the guage - did you use velcro, 3M Dual Lock or the like? Would you buy the same gauge again? I definitely need a voltmeter and saw this same unit at a local shop this weekend. Lots to choose from out there, but this doesn't have to cross the border to get here. Thanks for your help - from a displaced Virginia boy.

Two sided tape, doesn't leak.

Where I put it is easy to see while riding.According to mine it reads 2 greens while riding normal .... Hi-beams will will make the 2nd green flicker while riding..... Heated vest will make it drop to one green while idling(so if I'm longer than a stop and go I'll cut the vest off, might not need to but why not).

I've checked my battery against the lights with my multimeter and it let me know one light is in the low to mid 13's ... 2 lights are high 13 to low 14's..........Hope this helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...
  • Member Contributer

To clarify.... LED meters and indicators draw significantly more current than an LCD meter. If you prefer to monitor the voltage with the bike off, you should use an LCD type meter, however these types do not use backlighting, so they are difficult or impossible to use at night.

If you choose an LED type meter like the Kuryakyn or the Datel these should be connected so they go off with the key. Make no mistake, an LED meter will discharge the battery enough to create a no start condition if the bike sits longer than a week or two.

Garry

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have mine on the tail light circuit as I dont have a separate tailight anymore on my VFR, after installing a lens under the brake light housing many years ago. Only thing is, I don't think the tail light circuit gives the most accurate readings, as I suspect that it could be downstream of or linked up other systems in the electrical harness in some way, so I think it would be best if you can hook it up as close to direct to the battery as possible, like maybe the ignition switch circuit hot wire.

Beck

95 VFR

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The reason to not wire directly to the battery is to protect the bike. If you have a short on the positive side then you have a very good heater element. As in a fire will most probably ensue. Look at something fused. Check the gauge of the wire, the thinner it is the smaller the fuse. AN 18 gauge wire on a 20 amp fuse can glow bright red before the fuse blows. On a small wire look for a 2 or 5 amp circuit at the highest. Do not destroy your bike with crappy wiring.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have mine on the tail light circuit as I dont have a separate tailight anymore on my VFR, after installing a lens under the brake light housing many years ago. Only thing is, I don't think the tail light circuit gives the most accurate readings, as I suspect that it could be downstream of or linked up other systems in the electrical harness in some way, so I think it would be best if you can hook it up as close to direct to the battery as possible, like maybe the ignition switch circuit hot wire.

Beck

95 VFR

Yes, anything but a relayed connection will show a voltage drop. It is super simple to install a relay, so why not?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

The reason to not wire directly to the battery is to protect the bike. If you have a short on the positive side then you have a very good heater element. As in a fire will most probably ensue. Look at something fused. Check the gauge of the wire, the thinner it is the smaller the fuse. AN 18 gauge wire on a 20 amp fuse can glow bright red before the fuse blows. On a small wire look for a 2 or 5 amp circuit at the highest. Do not destroy your bike with crappy wiring.

I wish Mother Honda was listening when she was building some of the pas generations of VFR... Sigh.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like that gear indicator. One of the nice little features that I liked from the old 650 Nighthawk. Here's mine. I like simple dial meters and with a 4-pin flat trailer plug, I can switch between battery through the tender pigtail or switched through tail light. I just leave it on the tail lights as now I know that for my bike they read about 0.5 volt lower. I'm going to be doing some wiring over the winter, so I'll probably add a relay and leave it at that.

post-22227-0-23377300-1318608721_thumb.j

post-22227-0-94805100-1318608546_thumb.j

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have mine on the tail light circuit as I dont have a separate tailight anymore on my VFR, after installing a lens under the brake light housing many years ago. Only thing is, I don't think the tail light circuit gives the most accurate readings, as I suspect that it could be downstream of or linked up other systems in the electrical harness in some way, so I think it would be best if you can hook it up as close to direct to the battery as possible, like maybe the ignition switch circuit hot wire. Beck 95 VFR
Yes, anything but a relayed connection will show a voltage drop. It is super simple to install a relay, so why not?

Ooooh noooo NOT ANOTHER RELAY!??......... I wonder if I could just wire it parallel to my Symtec grip heaters from the relay that powers it? But I bet there will be a voltage drop when I turn them on though.....

Beck

95 VFR

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dutchy - I think you want the light blue wire...it will be the same color for license plate light.

Voltage drop with a voltmeter isn't an issue as long as you know what the drop is...compare voltage at wire being used to that of the battery to know what that value is...then add it back mentally.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Voltage drop with a voltmeter isn't an issue as long as you know what the drop is...compare voltage at wire being used to that of the battery to know what that value is...then add it back mentally.

Oooooh Nooooo!,.....not another thing to think about while riding!....... :blink::rolleyes::happy:

Beck

95 VFR

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Voltage drop with a voltmeter isn't an issue as long as you know what the drop is...compare voltage at wire being used to that of the battery to know what that value is...then add it back mentally.

Oooooh Nooooo!,.....not another thing to think about while riding!....... :blink::rolleyes::happy:

Beck

95 VFR

I already have to make the 8% speedo adjustment in my head...a bit more math wouldn't kill me...of course mine reads correctly so I don't have to chance it...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Cheers Tightwad :beer:

Darkness has fallen over the land here and with the bike parked outside, I will make the switch tomorrow.

The battery had drained, after a few hours on the Optimate, she fired right up...

So the ground of the relay and the ground of the powerlet cable, can they go straight to the minus on the battery?

Update: it was the brown wire allright.....

I had used one of these clip-on thingies to tap into the wire, but the mantle on the wire was not penetrated by the metal thingie. The gauge much thicker than the little brown wire....

so all is well now, works a treat. We have amazing weather for the weekend so................................ will be riding tomorrow

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.