Battery On Its Way Out?

[enzed_viffer]

Every now and again, when I go to start the VifFerraRi, the starter sort of 'lurches' (spins as normal, then has a brief strugglesome moment, then the bike kicks into life. And the clock has reset itself to 1:00. This has nothing to do with temperature - it was coldish this morning, but the bike spun up alright first thing - it didn't misbehave till I stopped for gas and restarted it again, by which time it was fully warmed up.

I've just measured the battery voltage, and it's around 12.5V at rest, and fine when the motor's running, so the R/R is not on its last legs.

The battery has been in the bike since I've had it (about three and a half years), so it's at least that old, but could be much older for all I know. So, is this just a simple "the battery's tired and on it's last legs" thing?

The last two bike batteries I replaced were on my '98 VTR1000 and '90 VFR750, both when the R/R was toast, and I misdiagnosed it as a battery problem. Before that, my '85 VF500 had the same battery the whole time I had the bike (about 6 years). Hence the doubt, and posting this question - I haven't had a battery naturally reach the end of its life since back in the 70s.

[ki-speed]

I had the same issues at about the same battery age.

Replace battery!!!!!!!!

[VFR4Lee]

I had the same issues at about the same battery age.

Replace battery!!!!!!!!

Also check RectumFryer and charging system to be sure it's A OK.

Sounds like the batt though. Same symptoms as mine last batt. :laugh:

[Rice]

I had the same exact issue.

It went away completely after I did the 30 Amp fuse mod.

My battery is original from 2002.

I do use trickle charger (when I'm not too lazy to plug it in).

Did you have the harness recall done?

[BonusVFR]

New Battery - resetting the clock only works for so long before you start needing a push!

[AB-Oz]

G'day Ian,

I've got the same problem mate, try to start, bike skips, clock resets, then it starts.

I've got a permanent voltmeter so checked the voltage on the short commute to work. at 5000 rpm it read 12.7-12.9. Sitting at the lights at idle it quickly dropped to 12.1 or so...

I think I'll try the electrex fault finding chart over the weekend, pull the tail off and check the reg/rec connections...

[Rivcyko]

I had the same exact issue.

It went away completely after I did the 30 Amp fuse mod.

My battery is original from 2002.

I do use trickle charger (when I'm not too lazy to plug it in).

Did you have the harness recall done?

:fing02:

D-oh!

Wrong year. :beer:

[Bikerholic]

I had similar problem earlier in the month. then it got worst. I don't know if it is related thou. My bike would cut off multiple times during my ride mostly when i rev it up during deceleration. Dealer says they couldn't find anything wrong with the electrical system and only tighten the kick stand kill switch. I had to push start it multiple times. (Battery was waiting for me at the post office back home which me and the VFR were away for a bike rallies) I'd finally install a 14S instead of the 12S OEM battery today for the higher CCA (Cold Crank Amp). Will soon see if this fixes my engine cut off problem.

Recall work done back in end of March.

[xenocide]

I have a 5th gen and was just going to post about this happening to me too. My battery is supposedly 1 year old and my speedo and LCD panel will randomly cut out on me and then resume functioning while riding from time to time. It's very infrequent but seems to happen every couple hundred miles or so. Usually while riding. I have the vfrness and a fan on my regulator as well and have no issues starting the bike. I don't know if it's related but I'm looking for help as well.

[Smitty]

I had similar problem earlier in the month. then it got worst. I don't know if it is related thou. My bike would cut off multiple times during my ride mostly when i rev it up during deceleration. Dealer says they couldn't find anything wrong with the electrical system and only tighten the kick stand kill switch. I had to push start it multiple times. (Battery was waiting for me at the post office back home which me and the VFR were away for a bike rallies) I'd finally install a 14S instead of the 12S OEM battery today for the higher CCA (Cold Crank Amp). Will soon see if this fixes my engine cut off problem.

Recall work done back in end of March.

I had similar issues, it was the R/R.

[Smitty]

I have a 5th gen and was just going to post about this happening to me too. My battery is supposedly 1 year old and my speedo and LCD panel will randomly cut out on me and then resume functioning while riding from time to time. It's very infrequent but seems to happen every couple hundred miles or so. Usually while riding. I have the vfrness and a fan on my regulator as well and have no issues starting the bike. I don't know if it's related but I'm looking for help as well.

...and I had this issue too. The problem? Battery connections were not real tight (just snug).

[Guest]

I had this prob when I got my bike....new battery installed no more problems!!!!!!!!!! Id do the battery 1st its cheap insurance anyway scince its been awhile, and then if that didnt cure the problem Id go to the R/R and some of the other members ideas...but Im betting the battery will cure you!!!!!!!! Good Luck!

[Guest]

I had the same issues at about the same battery age.

Replace battery!!!!!!!!

Also check RectumFryer and charging system to be sure it's A OK.

Sounds like the batt though. Same symptoms as mine last batt. :beer:

+1. Had the same problem. A new battery fixed the clock problem, but the R/R needed to be replaced...so which was the real problem? Fix your R/R before it ruins a new battery.

Greg

[mechdziner714]

I had the same issues at about the same battery age.

Replace battery!!!!!!!!

Also check RectumFryer and charging system to be sure it's A OK.

Sounds like the batt though. Same symptoms as mine last batt. :beer:

+1. Had the same problem. A new battery fixed the clock problem, but the R/R needed to be replaced...so which was the real problem? Fix your R/R before it ruins a new battery.

Greg

Just went thru this whole scenario myself, replaced the RR & added vfrness and all is well again. BTW the battery I thought was dead tests fine now, it wasnt being charged properly w/ the bad RR. So if your sure the RR is OK then just replace the battery.

[vfrcapn]

G'day Ian,

I've got the same problem mate, try to start, bike skips, clock resets, then it starts.

I've got a permanent voltmeter so checked the voltage on the short commute to work. at 5000 rpm it read 12.7-12.9. Sitting at the lights at idle it quickly dropped to 12.1 or so...

I think I'll try the electrex fault finding chart over the weekend, pull the tail off and check the reg/rec connections...

Had the same problems on my '99 and went through a few batteries until I did the 30amp RR wiring upgrade, add a larger parallel wire from RR(+) direct to battery(+), assuming RR checks out ok. Clock reset/dead battery issue appears to have gone away and voltages are still strong year & half later.

[enzed_viffer]

Whelp, I did some more testing, and although the battery tested more or less OK according to the workshop manual, I decided to buy a new one, because it's easy to replicate the instrument resetting problem. So, I set out to Motohaus, to visit my bike guy, who'd said he didn't have a YTX-12BS, but only a 14. "No problemo!", thought I, as the wise VFRders had confirmed that a 14 and 12 were the same dimensions, and the nly difference was the higher CCa rating for the 14.

WRONG!!

The YTX14 is about a centimetre taller. :laugh:

That might've been OK, except my Elka remote reservoir lives on top of the battery case, so there's no room for a taller battery.

WHich I didn't find out until I'd ridden the 25 minutes to the shop, taken my battery out, removed the 14 from its carton, and stood the two side-by-side. Luckily I hadn't already paid for it.

None of the other bike shops I rang had one, so I'm still using the old battery.

[Bikerholic]

Whelp, I did some more testing, and although the battery tested more or less OK according to the workshop manual, I decided to buy a new one, because it's easy to replicate the instrument resetting problem. So, I set out to Motohaus, to visit my bike guy, who'd said he didn't have a YTX-12BS, but only a 14. "No problemo!", thought I, as the wise VFRders had confirmed that a 14 and 12 were the same dimensions, and the nly difference was the higher CCa rating for the 14.

WRONG!!

The YTX14 is about a centimetre taller. :rolleyes:

That might've been OK, except my Elka remote reservoir lives on top of the battery case, so there's no room for a taller battery.

WHich I didn't find out until I'd ridden the 25 minutes to the shop, taken my battery out, removed the 14 from its carton, and stood the two side-by-side. Luckily I hadn't already paid for it.

None of the other bike shops I rang had one, so I'm still using the old battery.

Are you sure? I got the S14 and did a side by side and all look to be exactly the same.

As for my battery/charging problem: So far after the replacement with the S14, its been running/starting fine.

Battery Type: YTZ12S

Voltage: 12

Capacity: 11

Dimensions: 6" x 3 7/16" x 4 3/8"

Weight: 8.1 lbs.

Metric Dimensions: 150mm x 87mm x 110mm

Metric Weight: 3.7 kg

Polarity:

Acid Volume: N/A

Amps: 1.1

C.C.A.: 210

Battery Type: YTZ14S

Voltage: 12

Capacity: 11.2

Dimensions: 6" x 3 7/16" x 4 3/8"

Weight: 8.6 lbs.

Metric Dimensions: 150mm x 87mm x 110mm

Metric Weight: 3.9 kg

Polarity:

Acid Volume: N/A

Amps: 1.1

C.C.A.: 230

[Veefer800Canuck]

Get a YTZ-14S, which is an AGM style. Standard in the ST1300.

NOT a YTX series, which is a regular lead-acid style.

YTZ is 3/4 inch shorter, just add a plywood spacer at the bottom of the battery tray.

Superior design, 50 more cranking amps.

http://www.motorcyclebatteriesusa.com/batt....asp?battery=85

[Guest]

my '99 was doing this a while back... not too long after a dead R/R left me on the side of the road.

[enzed_viffer]

Hmmmm.....

I was searching the forums to see if I could determine what's wrong with my bike, and I found this thread.

Shortly after my last post, I ordered a YTS14S (or whatever the standard battery is) and ended up with some Chinese replica. I was not happy, but fitted it anyway, as I was assured it was "Really good" and "That's what we're fitting to all our bikes" and "Even the Yuasa batteries are made in China now".

The VFR's been hard to start latelyish, and after it sitting not used for 4 days, when I went to start it, it wouldn't turn over - Eggs Zachary like my earlier posts!

So, last night, I checked it with the multimeter: 12.4V at rest. Jump started the bike off my wife's car battery, and it started instantly (if not sooner). The voltage was 14.8V at idle, and the same at 5k rpm, so the R/R looks fine. Ran it for a goodly while, then started it again - started fine. Current draw-off is 1.0mA, so it's within spec. Stuck it on the charger overnight, and this morning it started well.

So... I can only assume that unless the charging varies (and is less when the bike and/or R/R is hot), the charging is OK, but the battery is marginal. This means I've got just over a year's use out of the Chinese battery, which is pretty piss-poor. The cheaper battery is false economy, so the next one will be a Yuasa again.

On the way home tonight, I'm going to see f I can find a reasonably priced voltmeter for the dash, otherwise, for the next few days I'm going to stick a multimeter in my tankbag and see what's what.

[VFR4Lee]

Cheap plastic Chinese crap. :fing02:

A Battery Tender type charger might help.

But if you get in a decent ride once a week or so, it shouldn't be necessary.

Looking at my service log, I'm on the third battery in my 1998 VFR.

Second battery installed 11/2001. Rectifier replaced 8/2002 after it died during a trip, so battery may have suffered.

Third and current battery installed 2/2008.

So, about 3.5 - 4 years on the first battery, and over 6 years on the second battery.

1.5 so far on the third. :fing02:

[Vee-Ef-Ar]

My RR killed the original (Yuasa) = around 9 years.

The replacement Yuasa has been running fine for the last 3 years.

NZ, buy the proper battery, or as Rob suggested the upgraded one.

Run the normal tests, hot and cold, then go from there.

Something tells me this will solve ALOT of your recent trouble.

[enzed_viffer]

A Battery Tender type charger might help.

But if you get in a decent ride once a week or so, it shouldn't be necessary.

It was on a electronic charger last night, and I'm planning to install the plug-in leads tonight, so I can charge it regularly if I choose to.

OTOH, if I can find a decent voltmeter to install on the bike, I might just do that instead. Or as well. It helped me to diagnose a tired R/R on the VTR when I installed one on that. If I can't find one, then I'll work out a way to connect my multimeter to the battery, so I can ride with it in my tank bag and see what's going on. Might find some interesting numbers when the bike's over 90C....

I normally ride it every day to work - about 20 minutes there, and slightly longer on the way home, so it should be charged enough.

[vfrcapn]

I normally ride it every day to work - about 20 minutes there, and slightly longer on the way home, so it should be charged enough.

I mentioned last May in this thread everything was good with a newer battery and wiring upgrade. Now the battery is over 2.5 years old and the same issue is popping back up. It needs a battery tender once a week to keep it charged, or a longer ride than my typical 15-20 minute errand runs. I haven't checked the battery yet but it just seems like they're not made to last very long. (I have the Yuasa AGM battery.) For now I'm just putting it on the tender overnight once a week and that seems to be fine. Those short rides just don't seem to deliver enough charge.

[VFRDYLAN]

I'm having the same issue right now. I'm almost positive it is only the old battery.

This will be the second battery since I've owned the bike (about 6 years). I use a trickle charger (when I remember to plug it in) and I have a datel voltmeter installed. When running, the bike with charge between 14.63 - 14.65 consistently. Replaced the R/R about 1 1/2 years ago.

Since the weather is getting colder here in NH, I'm pushing my luck...so I need to get is swapped this weekend (or so). Is the AGM upgrade battery worth the extra $$. My last battery is just a wal-mart variety, but I've had decent live.