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Tips & Tricks To Help Your Charging System

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This thread is getting crazy. Some things should probably be pointed out here before everybody starts de-evolving their 6gen charging system back to 1985.

Acceptable charging system voltage, as measured at the battery on a 6th gen is max 15.5 volts. There is nothing wrong if you are reading up to 15.5v. (hi beams on, @5000rpm)

Batteries tolerate a relatively wide-range of charging voltages. The Honda manual for a 4th gen lists 16 volts as acceptable maximum. My Schumacher model 10000A, digital electronic, microprocessor controlled "smart charger" frequently runs its charging voltage up to 17 volts.

Modern fuel-injection sensors and components, on the other hand, are sensitive to small fluctuations in voltage by design. Sensors frequently require precision down to tenths of a volt.

The remote voltage-sensing circuit on modern VFRs and many other new Hondas is there to help the R/R maintain correct voltage out in the harness, where the sensitive components are; not at the battery+ terminal.

Many FI, ABS and other parts are located downstream of the ignition switch, the fuse block, and splices and connectors in between. They all potentially contribute some resistance and voltage drop from the system. Add to that, wear and corrosion which are further antagonists.

Low voltage on the sensor wire signals the R/R to increase output. So, excessive resistance in this wire could cause over-voltage (15.6<). However, it could be a symptom of high resistance in any of the above mentioned locations. Check for resistance/ voltage drop at connectors, the ignition switch, the fuse box, there are several situations that could cause the remote wire to return a low reading, pushing up the R/R's output.

Finally, keep in mind that burned connectors are caused by (duh) heat. Excessive heat is not produced by voltage, or even current neccesarily, but from too much resistance for a given level of current. Check all those connectors, keep them clean, and use some kind of corrosion preventative on them. (Lately I've been using Ox-Gard.)

It's a new millennium people! :D

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If MR HONDA is so smart why do I have a fried stator connector on what I consider to be a relatively new bike?

Why all the cooked 30 Amp fuse wires here in the forum? Why do people have so many of the notorious fused BLUE connector block? Why did Honda recall and upgrade the Alternator assembly? Why are people getting free main wire harness replacements or doing it at their own expense?

I'm sorry it this is offensive - Honda makes a beautiful engine and drivetrain, and I absolutely love my bike, but their electrics remind me of the LUCAS Electrics in my old MGB. As one mechanic said "LUCAS Electrics - The Prince of Darkness!"

For the record there are exactly three items at play between the Black monitor wire and the positive post of the battery:

  1. The 30 Amp "A" fuse in the starter relay;
  2. The Ignition Switch;and
  3. The 10 Amp "Starter and Bank Angle" fuse.

I checked everything humanly possible. Fuses, wires, continuity, resistance, paths of travel, the orbit of the planets and Venus' trajectory reference Mars. Heck, I would have sacrificed a chicken if I thought it would have helped. I did kick the dog but he was humping the neighbors cat. That didn't help. Well, it helped the cat - I think.

My theory (with the help of several members here). The wire harness - especially the main power supply and charging line (Red/White) is undersized and insufficient for this bike. The monitor wire is somehow sensing resistance from the Starter, Bank Angle sensor, or a combination of them and jacking up the Regulator / Rectifier output voltage. This is causing an overcharging condition which cooks the undersized 30 Amp wire near the battery and then a cascade starts.

For the record. I have 28,000 Km on my 2002. I originally had made NO MODIFICATIONS or additions to the bike - pure stock from the factory. No FARKLES what-so-ever.

  • I replaced the burnt 30 amp ("B") fuse wire and upgraded the wire to the battery from the fuse as well.
  • A couple of days later I noticed a "burning nylon smell". My Stator to Regulator/Rectifier 3P connector was totally cooked and fused (I don't even know how the bike was charging at all). I cut it out and rewired BUT the stator wires were so hot they were melting the insulation around the NEW connections.
  • I replaced my Battery then RR in an attempt to fix the "cheap" items (BTW the stator tested fine according the the maintenance manual and every other possible check).
  • Finally I replaced the alternator / stator - my VIN was NOT covered in the alternator assembly "recall" according to 3 dealers AND Honda Canada.

I don't know what came first - the chicken or the egg? Did the battery take out the RR? Did the RR take out the Stator? Did the battery take out the stator? Did the crummy 16 gauge wire on the 30 Amp fuse put too much stress on the whole frig'n camel?

I know we aren't talking about trickle chargers but how about this from Yausa Batteries (the bold is my handywork) .... http://www.yuasabatteries.com/motor_battery.asp

Overcharging is an insidious killer; its effects often aren't apparent to the innocent purchaser of the ten-dollar trickle charger who leaves it hooked to the battery for extended periods. A trickle charger charges at a constant rate regardless of the battery state of charge. If that rate is more than the battery's natural absorption rate at full charge, the electrolyte will begin to break down and boil away. Many a rider has stored a bike all winter on a trickle charger only to find the battery virtually empty in the spring. Also, since charging tends to oxidize the positive plates, continued overcharging can corrode the plates or connectors till they weaken and break.

Undercharging is a condition that exists on many Gold Wings. Your voltage regulator is set to maintain your system voltage at around 14 to 14.4 volts. If you're one of those folks who rides the interstate highways with your voltmeter showing only 13.5 volts because you're burning more lights than Macy's Christmas display, you should be aware that that voltage is sufficient to maintain a charged battery but insufficient to fully recharge a depleted one. Remember, we said that gassing occurs when all or most of the lead sulfate has been converted back to lead and lead dioxide. The voltage at which this normally occurs, known as the gassing voltage, is normally just above 14 volts.

Yes the maintenance manual says 15.5V MAXIMUM at 5000 RPM. And yes I definitely noticed that my bike was charging anywhere from 13.7V to 15V + before the monitor wire mod.

However, short of a new harness, I now have a completely NEW electrical system installed and when I checked the battery voltage guess what? ---- 15V + and variable. Just like before. When I connected the black monitor wired directly to the battery - instantly I had 14.3V - rock solid. That is perfect as far as I'm concerned.

For the last 2 1/2 weeks I have been sourcing parts, replacing parts and tracing wiring diagrams. I have the full wiring diagram blown up to 3 x 4 feet on my garage wall! I have researched this issue on the web and with every mechanic and battery sales person that I can find that will talk about it -- and many that don't want to hear about it anymore.

Want a nice footnoted summary? Try this... Car Batteries are NOT 12 Volts

Yes he does say that you could go higher than 14.5 volts BUT that would be on specialized batteries (deep cycle batteries can also benefit). I think that 15V + is high. To each his own.

Oh ya - a big thank you to all that helped out with this post and others here at VFRD. Without you I would not have had a wiring digram, maintenance manual, a place to start investigating or a place to just get some extra info. Thank you all. I'm going riding. If this cooks my harness then so be it. It didn't seem to be doing much good the other way Mr Honda built it.

BTW if anyone needs an new alternator assembly - CARTER Honda Motorsports in Vancouver had ONE left as of last Friday. Good luck finding one otherwise.

MODS: 30 Amp Fuse wire improved, Black sensing wire directly to battery, and supplemental red/white wires from RR to battery.

TO DO: Reinforce the ground wires BEFORE my blue connector fuses, supplement the ground wires from the RR and post a full how-to with pics for everyone who wonders what the hell is going on here. Oh, and drink a beer.

Edited by talus

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If MR HONDA is so smart why do I have a fried stator connector on what I consider to be a relatively new bike?

Heh; I have a 4th gen! Don't have to tell me about failure-prone Honda electrics. Yer preaching to the choir brotha! Amen! :beer:

-and for what reason has Honda not yet adopted weather-resistant type connectors across the board? One can only wonder why a 10 year old Chevy Cavalier is full of sealed Packard WeatherPack type stuff; and yet Honda....

If reading 14.3 at the battery terminal gives you a warm fuzzy feeling, have at it.

However, we're now seeing posts from people currently having no trouble, yet being scared to the verge of chopping up their harness to de-activate a significant feature of the electrical system. -without even knowing what the black monitor wire is for.

When jumping the monitor wire pin of the R/R straight to the battery results in a big drop in V, what does that tell us? -that there is an unusually large differential between V in the charging circuit and what was being measured through the harness. You have proven this with the jumper wire. You did say you replaced everything except the harness... Bypassing the monitor circuit doesn't fix the problem, just treats a symptom. Elsewhere in the system we now have a low-voltage condition. (hope it's not at your ABS computer!)

The footnoted link was good reading, if a bit heavy on conjecture. It should be noted that the "specialized" batteries mentioned, like Optima are commonly known now as AGM or Absorbed Glass Mat cells. At first AGMs were rolled in cylinders inside the battery, like a six-pack of big capacitors. However nowadays rectangularly stacked mats are commonplace as well, like WestCo.

had to chuckle from the first footnote in that article:

"Batteries: Current Designs", Mike Dale, Motor magazine, November 1985

heh. :D

Peace; and Happy Motoring!

:wheel:

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Latest readings are as below. All done without headlights on.

Readings with the R/R disconnected:

Battery voltage with bike off = [12.6v]

Voltage with bike at idle = [12.42v]

Voltage with bike at 5k RPM = [11.30V]

AC voltage from stator at idle (all 3 legs checked across themselves) = [2-3 vac]

AC voltage from stator at 5k RPM (all 3 legs checked across themselves) = [3-4 vac]

Readings with the R/R connected:

Battery voltage with bike off = [12.6 V]

Voltage with bike at idle = [12.42 V]

Voltage with bike at 5k RPM = [12.39 V]

Voltage at R/R output at idle = 12.18 V

Voltage at R/R output at 5k rpm = 12.10 V

AC voltage from stator at idle (all 3 legs checked across themselves) = [2-3 VAC]

AC voltage from stator at 5k RPM (all 3 legs checked across themselves) = [3-4 VAC]

Well, it seems my stator is the one causing all the trouble. Is there any possible causes? Will loose wiring cause such a discrepancy?

And more bad news...my local dealer do not have stock of the stator! sad.gif

Anybody used the Electrosport ones, are they any good? - http://www.electrosport.com/electrosport_e...cal_honda1.html

Or are there compatible alternatives (other Honda models? Yamaha? Suzukis?)?

After recieving all the help here, I think it's only right for me to update. Btw, mine's a y2k 5th Gen.

I've ascertain that my stator is bad, and hence ordered an Electrosport one from somebody selling it off in this forum and (after hearing all praises) decided to get one from Ricks too. Here are the 2 stators:

medium.jpg

Funny, it seems the Electrosport ones is narrower than the one from Rick's. Which one is correct though?

medium.jpg

Then I open up my alternator and took out the old coil. I guess this is what you could call 'burned'. Anybody knows what can cause this?

original.jpg

Comparing thickness of alternator. The one from Rick's is of the correct dimension. I'll be keeping the Electrosport's one as a spare I guess. Anybody who had used Electrosport's stator coil can confirm that I got the correct coil?

medium.jpg

medium.jpg

Next, some readings with the new coil:

Bike at 2500 rpm: 14.68V

Bike at 5000 rpm: 14.68V

Stator AC voltage - 24VAC - 67VAC form idle to 5000 rpm

Voltage drop from batt positive to R/R black wire (voltage sensing): 0.287V (which fail the <0.2V requirement from Electrosport's fault finding guide).

Hence I wire the black sensing wire directly to the battery positive and obtained:

Bike at idle: 13.4V

Bike at 5000 rpm: 14.2V

I guess that's good news...until you guys are now debating the credibility of doing the black wire mod! Drats, I've already cut the wire from the harness side...

Edited by snowparang

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I don't think a minor variance in the thickness of the two units matters.

I think 14.2 V at cruising rpm is too high.

Here is my working theory and practice:

Your charging system should function like a battery tendender.

Your cruising rpm (where most time is spent) voltage should be just above your batteries steady state full charge voltage. Batteries differ so I won't give a specific number. My Oem Batt was at 12.6 & 12.5 for 18 months. My new Westco has sat at 13.0 & 12.9 for 5 years. This is what they both measured after sitting on a battery tender (digital automatic maintenance charger) over night and then unplugged for two hours. That is what I call steady state full charge.

If your charging system is working right your battery should measure the same after a one or more hour ride at cruising speed ( no extended stop & go or low speed running)

and then parked for two hours.

When I put my battery on the tender it goes up to 14.2 briefly if it was loewer than its usual 12.9 0r 13.0 then settles down to a constant 13.2. If the battery was already at 13.0 it just goes right to 13.2 and stays there.

When you crank your engine or run your lights without starting for a few seconds you battery will be low and 14.2 or 14.4 can be expected when you first start up but should soon settle down to around 13.2 after a few miles at cruising speed as the battery returns to full charge. Variables such as RPM and accesorries use wil cause the charge voltage to fluctuate more than it does with the bike parked and on the tender but if you see either less tan OR more than .5 volt above your steady state voltage, you have a problem.

I don't really know about the monitor wire on the 2000+ bikes but I feel sure the above applies to all 12 volt charging systems. Just one other thing, be sure your battery tender is suitable for the type of battery you have.

Latest readings are as below. All done without headlights on.

Readings with the R/R disconnected:

Battery voltage with bike off = [12.6v]

Voltage with bike at idle = [12.42v]

Voltage with bike at 5k RPM = [11.30V]

AC voltage from stator at idle (all 3 legs checked across themselves) = [2-3 vac]

AC voltage from stator at 5k RPM (all 3 legs checked across themselves) = [3-4 vac]

Readings with the R/R connected:

Battery voltage with bike off = [12.6 V]

Voltage with bike at idle = [12.42 V]

Voltage with bike at 5k RPM = [12.39 V]

Voltage at R/R output at idle = 12.18 V

Voltage at R/R output at 5k rpm = 12.10 V

AC voltage from stator at idle (all 3 legs checked across themselves) = [2-3 VAC]

AC voltage from stator at 5k RPM (all 3 legs checked across themselves) = [3-4 VAC]

Well, it seems my stator is the one causing all the trouble. Is there any possible causes? Will loose wiring cause such a discrepancy?

And more bad news...my local dealer do not have stock of the stator! sad.gif

Anybody used the Electrosport ones, are they any good? - http://www.electrosport.com/electrosport_e...cal_honda1.html

Or are there compatible alternatives (other Honda models? Yamaha? Suzukis?)?

After recieving all the help here, I think it's only right for me to update. Btw, mine's a y2k 5th Gen.

I've ascertain that my stator is bad, and hence ordered an Electrosport one from somebody selling it off in this forum and (after hearing all praises) decided to get one from Ricks too. Here are the 2 stators:

medium.jpg

Funny, it seems the Electrosport ones is narrower than the one from Rick's. Which one is correct though?

medium.jpg

Then I open up my alternator and took out the old coil. I guess this is what you could call 'burned'. Anybody knows what can cause this?

original.jpg

Comparing thickness of alternator. The one from Rick's is of the correct dimension. I'll be keeping the Electrosport's one as a spare I guess. Anybody who had used Electrosport's stator coil can confirm that I got the correct coil?

medium.jpg

medium.jpg

Next, some readings with the new coil:

Bike at 2500 rpm: 14.68V

Bike at 5000 rpm: 14.68V

Stator AC voltage - 24VAC - 67VAC form idle to 5000 rpm

Voltage drop from batt positive to R/R black wire (voltage sensing): 0.287V (which fail the <0.2V requirement from Electrosport's fault finding guide).

Hence I wire the black sensing wire directly to the battery positive and obtained:

Bike at idle: 13.4V

Bike at 5000 rpm: 14.2V

I guess that's good news...until you guys are now debating the credibility of doing the black wire mod! Drats, I've already cut the wire from the harness side...

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I'm not sure if this will help the discussion or not, but FWIW here are the readings I get on my 3 month old stock 2007 VFR (no mods):

resting voltage (overnight) 12.8

ignition on, not running 12.2

fully warmed up, @idle 14.6

@idle w/ hi-beams 13.3

@5000 rpm 14.6

@5000 w/ hi-beams 14.6

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I now have a basic understanding of how to accomplish these electrical mods but I have a couple questions before I start tearing into the bike.

1. How or is the R/R wiring mod associated with the main 30amp fuse mod/replacment?

2. How is the R/R wiring mod associated with the Blue Connector grounding mod?

3. If I do the main 30amp fuse mod/fix, do I still need to do the R/R wiring mod and the blue connector grounding mod or all of them?

4. If I have to do all of these electrical mods, in what order should I do them?

Right now, my only problem/concern is that my main 30 amp fuse is discolored and starting to melt... but is that reason enough to go ahead and do all of these mods? Any help would be much appreciated!!

Here are my current voltage readings:

A. Bike Cold not running

a. At the Battery – 12.77 vdc

b. Key on (with just the low beams on) - 12.00 vdc

B. Bike Started/Running @ idle but still cold

a. Voltage Climbed from 13.00 vdc to 15.1 vdc within the first minute.

b. The same condition with high beams on at first minute was 14.2 vdc.

C. Bike Started/Running at Operating Temperature and at idle.

a. 30 amp fuse is hot to the touch meaning cannot keep hand on more than 1 second.

b. R/R is hot to the touch, same as fuse.

c. Blue connector is barely warm

d. Voltage with low beams on – 15.15 vdc

e. Voltage with High beams on – Fluctuates from 13.66 vdc to 13.75 vdc

f. Voltage with Radiator fans on and high beams – 12.70 vdc

g. Voltage with Radiator fans on and low beams – 13.73 vdc

D. Bike running @ 2500 rpm.

a. Low beams - 15.16 vdc

b. High beams – 15.57 vdc

E. Bike running @ 5000 rpm.

a. Low beams – 15.17 vdc

b. High beams – 15.20 vdc

Edited by JSZR2

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I took my bike into the dealership to have the melted 30 Amp fuse done. What they did was add 2-12g wires instead of adding 1 thicker wire (as posted here), and replaced the stator. Now my readings from my voltmeter are:(not sure what they were before, as I just added the voltmeter)

Bike at Idle = 13.2 volts

Bike while driving = 15.2 Volts

Is this too high?

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Working on my electrical system mods at the moment and read again through ALL of the pertinent electrical threads. Still have a couple of questions.

On, my '02, I've upgraded the battery + wiring with 8 ga wiring, eliminating the stock 30A fuse holder and connector. I'm planning on adding the 10A fused direct-to-battery R/R monitor wire mod, and also increasing the capacity of the charge wires from the R/R.

My question is this:

Is there anything wrong with running the two extra charge (red) wires from the R/R connector to the point where my new 8 ga wire (30A fuse holder) mates to the smaller red/white wire?

I see this as taking the guesswork out of having 2 additional fuse holders (what fuse rating to use), as well as still being a significant upgrade over stock.

I am also wiring in an accesory fuse block for running ALL of my extras from, so that stock wiring only has to do minimal extra load.

Thoughts or suggestions before I go and cut the next round of upgrades?

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Guest pontiac_banshee

Ok read through the forum and found my 91 is different. I have only 5 wires.

Red - + ?

Green - - ?

Yellow -stator

Yellow -stator

Yellow -stator

Is the same hold true to this?

Any 90 - 92 VFR owners in here try there system?

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Ok, I have read this whole thread, and the others like it, twice. My questions should be an easy answer:

Bike:

2002 VFR w/ABS, 15K miles

Current Status:

30Amp fuse holder looks slightly discolored

Volt w/key off and overnight rest is 12.9

Volt with Key on, Engine off is 12.4

Volt with Engine idling is 13.2

Volt at 5K RPM is 15.4, or 15.8 w/high beam

I think that means I need to upgrade the wiring in 3 parts:

#1. 30 Amp fuse needs rewired with 12 Gauge wires

#2. Blue connector, green wire needs bypassed at connector and supplemental ground added

#2. Red/White wires need supplemented from RR to Battery, with 20Amp inline fuses for each

#2.1. Black sensing wire....do I have this on a 6th Gen? Do I need to do something with it?

And the dumbest question....where is the RR located?

Blue connector is on the left side...do I need to remove all panels? I have never had it apart.

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OK, I found the RR after much swearing, and 6 trips into the house. It appears to be located above the Radiator on the right side. It has rounded fins(some are taller than others).

I tested the voltage there, and at 5K RPM got:

15.6 volts from the Red/White wire,

16.4 with highbeams on, and

14.6 V from the Black/White wire.

At idle the Black/white gives 12.9V with High beam, 13.4 without....Black/White never goes above 14.4

I pulled the Black Connector out of the plug, and jumpered it to the positive lead of the battery. This gave me a solid 14.4 volts at all RPMs, with or without the highbeams on. I am very curious what the black/white wire is reading to get those voltages.

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I replaced my regulator with an aftermarket one(old one was bad) and added a battery to frame ground, a regulator to frame ground, and a regulator to battery hot.

With an analog volt meter the needle is rock solid @ 14v from idle to almost 12k rpm. Thanks for the wiring suggestions they definately help.

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Just wanted to report back on my fix.

I added a relayed circuit for the sensor wire straight to the battery. At the same time I added an accessory wire so I could charge my cell phone, power a CD player, what have you. I did not mount the accessory wires permanently because I was short on time prior to my trip. I did however use spade terminals to make it simple to disconnect the Cigarette lighter terminal, and plug something else in (tba as to what exactly).

I wanted to be able to monitor my voltage most of all, so I used a cheap multimeter as a voltmeter, and plugged the probes in a modified cigarette plug that I made. I had 14.37 rock solid the entire 1435 miles I logged, except when I used my high beams, then it was 14.31. Seemed perfect to me. I did notice that my battery is now stable at 12.6 after a night, where it should be, instead of 13.2 where it had been....sure sign that it was being overcharged before the mod.

The only scare I had was about 150 miles from home, I looked down at the meter and it was jumping around from 10-14.38 and back....rather sporadic and didn't make sense. My first thought was that my stator was crapping out, or my RR was...not the case. I pulled on the wires my multimeter was plugged into and it became rock steady again....I just had a bad connection.

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I cut the OEM harness connection from the r/r to the battery and simply ran 10guage directly to the battery. *BUT* - the accesory fuse block in the OEM arrangement pulls power on the downstream end of the main fuse, thereby having a direct connection to the r/r. In my modified state, that connection now runs THROUGH the main 30a fuse. Am I running the risk of cooking the 30a fuse or the holder?

I've read this thread three times and this mod makes the most sense to me.

What I will describe applies to my '98 with a 7-wire r/r (3-yellow, 2-red/wht, 2-grn/wht, NO blk monitoring wire).

1. Cut the OEM harness between the r/r and red/grn connector.

2. Splice two 12ga (or one 10ga) wires to the red/wht outputs from the r/r and connect these directly to battery positive. No fuse.

3. Splice two 12ga (or one 10ga) wires to the grn/wht outputs from the r/r and connect these directly to battery negative or frame ground.

4. Isolate/insulate the wires on the cut connector and plug it back in for safe keeping.

According to the wiring diagram, the red/wht pair (and grn/wht pair) are tied together soon after the connector anyhow. I would think the 30A main fuse is there to protect the wiring harness from the battery to the fuse block and ignition switch. With the r/r connected after the fuse, the harness is not protected if the r/r 'happens' to put out more than 30A. With the r/r connected directly to the battery, you enjoy best possible charging and the harness is ALWAYS protected.

Tell me what would be wrong with this?

-M

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I did notice that my battery is now stable at 12.6 after a night, where it should be, instead of 13.2 where it had been....sure sign that it was being overcharged before the mod.

At 12.6v your battery is in a discharged state.

There was nothing wrong with it at 13.2v

Full charge = 13.0 to 13.2 volts according to the service manual:

gallery_4773_2265_2280.jpg

02spec.jpg

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Just saw this on the Concours 14 forum:

icon_posticon.gifPosted - 10/04/2007 : 06:58:48 <A href="http://www.concours.org/forum/pop_profile.asp?mode=display&id=5425">icon_profile.gificon_email.gif icon_reply_topic.gif Stator is "oil cooled", common on bikes, it operates in the engine crankcase oil. The windings are epoxy coated to keep them out of actual contact with the oil.May not be news to some or most of you but it sheds some light on our VFR charging issues for me.

We all know that heat inreases resitance in electrical circuits. The harder we ride the higher the RPM and the higher the stator output and at the same time the hotter the oil gets and thus the less effective it is at colling the stator when it needs cooling most.

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Guest DiscoStu
Ok read through the forum and found my 91 is different. I have only 5 wires.

Red - + ?

Green - - ?

Yellow -stator

Yellow -stator

Yellow -stator

Is the same hold true to this?

Any 90 - 92 VFR owners in here try there system?

I just picked up a new-to-me 1990 with low miles. All lights flickering slightly on my first night ride so I checked voltages and would you believe 18V at 5000RPM??? All this talk of the mods to the newer bikes is interesting, but I'm with Banshee:

How do I get my 5 wire RR to put out less voltage?

Thanks.

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Is this fix recommended for the 6th gen's also or just 5th generation models?

Yes, very much so! I have sold 3x as many for the 6th gen.

Anything on 4th generation, thanks Tom

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Ok read through the forum and found my 91 is different. I have only 5 wires.

Red - + ?

Green - - ?

Yellow -stator

Yellow -stator

Yellow -stator

Is the same hold true to this?

Any 90 - 92 VFR owners in here try there system?

I just picked up a new-to-me 1990 with low miles. All lights flickering slightly on my first night ride so I checked voltages and would you believe 18V at 5000RPM??? All this talk of the mods to the newer bikes is interesting, but I'm with Banshee:

How do I get my 5 wire RR to put out less voltage?

Thanks.

If you have to much voltage, your regulator or sensing wire is bad...usually, the regulator is bad and needs replaced.

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Ok read through the forum and found my 91 is different. I have only 5 wires.

Red - + ?

Green - - ?

Yellow -stator

Yellow -stator

Yellow -stator

Is the same hold true to this?

Any 90 - 92 VFR owners in here try there system?

I just picked up a new-to-me 1990 with low miles. All lights flickering slightly on my first night ride so I checked voltages and would you believe 18V at 5000RPM??? All this talk of the mods to the newer bikes is interesting, but I'm with Banshee:

How do I get my 5 wire RR to put out less voltage?

Thanks.

If you have to much voltage, your regulator or sensing wire is bad...usually, the regulator is bad and needs replaced.

not sure, but i thought someone said the older bikes dont have a feedback wire....

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1999 and older don't have a sensor wire.

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Could someone PLEASE condense all of this into an easy to follow how-to for 5th gens with pictures ¡¡POR FAVORRRRR!!

After reading the whole thing I can longer think straight!! :fing02:

1999 and older don't have a sensor wire.

98 and older (ehem). In then end tightwad, as you can see, I smashed up my Vtecker and was forced to keep the 5th gen for I have no car... should have gon through with the 5th gen harness too, plug and play... almost... drool drool...

Edited by Auspañol

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b. Assuming it's my stator that's roasted, how do I confirm that? I've done the continuity checks and earth leakage checks as suggested by the manual and all turn out pretty fine. With the bike running, the AC voltage as measured from the yellow cables on the wire harness side reads between 2.8-3.2 vac.

c. Is there any way to damage a R/R by simple connecting it?

First off, fill in this chart. In brackets are typical good results.

Battery voltage with bike off = [12.5v]

Voltage with bike at idle = [13.2v]

Voltage with bike at 5k RPM = [14.0]

I get 12.6 volts - bike off, 13.5 volts at idle, and 12.5 at 5000 rpm when it should be 14.3. Battery is holding a charge fine.

Anyone want to help me out on this one?

I think I need to do the ground and positive lead rewire too. BTW, I have checked all the other readings and they're within specs.

I also added the pcu fan when I put on a new RR two years ago.

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Could someone PLEASE condense all of this into an easy to follow how-to for 5th gens with pictures ¡¡POR FAVORRRRR!!

After reading the whole thing I can longer think straight!! :beer:

1999 and older don't have a sensor wire.

98 and older (ehem). In then end tightwad, as you can see, I smashed up my Vtecker and was forced to keep the 5th gen for I have no car... should have gon through with the 5th gen harness too, plug and play... almost... drool drool...

The 5th Gens, especially the 98-99 are very easy(no monitor wire). Here are pics of the VFR developement for the 5th gen that should help:

5th Gen R/R Fix

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