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86 VFR700F Retool or therapy or both


tsmitty

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So the wiring is about wrapped. I ran #10 +/- from rectifier to battery with 1 set of unions for the 30A fuses, and direct connect to stator. 

Next I want to make a good set of gauges from a donor set, I want to use the lense, faceplate and housing from the one and keep my milage...so my question for someone that has had their (86 F) gauges apart...does the needle pull off? how much will that coil spring un-wind when it does?

Thanks 

 

73's

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You can "manipulate" the odometer to match the original unit.  I wouldn't frown upon it because you'd be doing it to match the actual mileage.  You can at least get it real close. 

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56 minutes ago, Captain 80s said:

You can "manipulate" the odometer

I tried playing with it but couldn't figure out how. 

I may not need to after all, the old bezel with the broken lens cleaned up pretty well with  a very weak solution of car wash soap and water and a good lens and housing from the donor gauge and I think I'm good! 

 

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17 minutes ago, tsmitty said:

I tried playing with it but couldn't figure out how.

 

The one I did, the number wheels were spring loaded from the side to keep them engaged with each other.  I was able to slide them to the side to get enough play to manipulate them.  Think it was a VF500F that the original unit was smashed.  I have enough speedos from parts bikes I thought I'd give it a shot even if something went wrong.

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Just now, tsmitty said:

Thanks Captain, I'll take a look in a couple days.  sweetie and me are vacating for a couple days. 

 

Have a great time.

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The gauges turned out nice. untitledshoot-0950.thumb.jpg.50ca60f802375ed9e8a3f35c1a43ceca.jpguntitledshoot-0949.thumb.jpg.377eb862178bf70b7c5df62bccb60d42.jpg

This is what I did to the controls before I started memorializing my adventures on this forum; 

Every contact and mechanicals in the controls was full of gummed-up gunk...cleaned!

The start button was broken, I drilled out and re-pinned.

Ignition key switch was attacked with a screwdriver; the little dust door was folded in half and I had to create a new spot for that pivot pin in the switch housing.

Turn signal switch ... I think someone used chain lube on all this shit....anyways its all cleaned and working. (I don't expect the key switch dust door to last long...:( ⚰️

New sight glass and rebuilds for the hydraulics.untitledshoot-0950.thumb.jpg.50ca60f802375ed9e8a3f35c1a43ceca.jpg

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Now just waiting for the shock to come home from rebuilding, assemble the rear and pull the carbs. I have the o-rings to refresh the coolant plumbing as well. 

 

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I've been following all along, just don't have anything to add like more knowledgeable members.  Fantastic work.

 

Please share how you got the clocks and surround so nice.

 

Did the new sight glass come with the metal/chrome/ring thing? I ask as mine is scratched from my suboptimal painting attempt. 

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2 hours ago, Bren said:

Did the new sight glass come with the metal/chrome/ring thing?

Yes, came with metal ring and o-rings, got my instructions from utubing.

 

2 hours ago, Bren said:

Please share how you got the clocks and surround so nice.

I had a set of donor clocks for the housings and lenses. The housing exterior cleaned with wd-40 and wiped dry, interior with very weak solution of carwash soap and water, gauge, lenses and clock faces too.

 

Thanks Bren

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On 8/8/2023 at 11:43 PM, Terry said:

Honda marine make a nice 12v voltmeter. I had one mounted on my ST1100 that looked like a factory fitment.IMG_3027.thumb.JPG.6a216dab4a08c16b365e944e2238707e.JPG

Ok so Terry got me thinking about mounting a volt meter and having it blend in to the dash as good as this. 

So I got a gauge and am exploring the possibilities.untitledshoot-0955.thumb.jpg.3c1156b288180226dd0ed02204f116dd.jpguntitledshoot-0954.thumb.jpg.e338785e70f30868d6f354b6f5d490e3.jpg

If I could,I would have all the lettering and scale in red, battery too except for the 12,5 volt, 13 & 13.5 volt graduations in green and the Honda text removed. But check this out, this is whats got me so intrigued. Heres whats left from the gauges of the earlier project.

It would look so cool if I could nestle that section of bezel with gauge up at about the 8:00 position on the speedo.

 

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It looks like it belongs there, but with a FH0020A I'd much rather have a temp gauge in my line of sight.  If you had the inner cowl panels you could flush mount it in one.  Then you could choose one of the other Hondaline Gauges for the other side.

 

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I sold the Altimeter and Air Temp Gauges I had, but kept the Volt Meter.

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Panel mounted would look so cool but even if I could find and afford a set in this lifetime...I would be in tears drilling, gouging, tearing, ripping or otherwise putting a hole... 

 

I have often constantly wondered if I could try make some panels or a partial panel but just couldn't do the bike justice, maybe something along those lines along the left hand inner cowl. 

 

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15 hours ago, Captain 80s said:

Then you could choose one of the other Hondaline Gauges for the other side.

I would so put the clock on the other side...are you kidding me, that would look so flipping kool!! I would still want to black out the "Honda" in it. I don't know why that bugs me...redundancy maybe...

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Now, you got me infected! Where can I get this voltmeter? I want to put it on my '97. This is much cooler than a Digital one!

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12 minutes ago, Wald said:

Now, you got me infected!

lol   ebay...      sorry Wald

Start a thread, I'm going back to the chassis here in a week, just heard from the Carb Dude btw, then to the carbs. 

It would be great to watch you do the gauge and where you put it!

Hey Captain, you were talking to a guy in the other forum about starting a carb thread, did he ever start one? I would love to follow that one too. 

I also read somewhere Squirrelmans method for bench sync'ing the carbs that sounds genius to me.

Through the years I've had my carbs apart many many times but there are so many guys around here that just firkin amaze me of the level of experience. 

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1 hour ago, Wald said:

Now, you got me infected! Where can I get this voltmeter?

 

Do some shopping on this one.  You can find them thru some Honda Marine outlets for some deals sometimes.  It's usually the shipping from these places that kills it though. 

 

1 hour ago, tsmitty said:

Hey Captain, you were talking to a guy in the other forum about starting a carb thread, did he ever start one? I would love to follow that one too.

 

As far as I know...   crickets.  Maybe he contacted Squirrelman like I told him to.  Proper removal and installation is still no cake walk on them though, that's why I recommended starting a thread regardless.

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3 hours ago, tsmitty said:

I would still want to black out the "Honda" in it. I don't know why that bugs me...redundancy maybe...

 

For me it shows that it's a Honda Accessory, not a knock-off.

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45 minutes ago, Captain 80s said:

For me it shows that it's a Honda Accessory, not a knock-off.

Maybe a little VFR logo in there would be sweet.

This will be a fun sub-project.

1 hour ago, Captain 80s said:

Proper removal and installation is still no cake walk on them though

I plan on doing a meticulous tear down clean, inspect and install on here with help please. But I got to get her on two wheels first? Cant flippin wait.

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On 8/29/2023 at 3:04 PM, tsmitty said:

Panel mounted would look so cool but even if I could find and afford a set in this lifetime...I would be in tears drilling, gouging, tearing, ripping or otherwise putting a hole... 

 

I have often constantly wondered if I could try make some panels or a partial panel but just couldn't do the bike justice, maybe something along those lines along the left hand inner cowl. 

 

 

For years i kept mine in the closet stored safely, one in good shape, one with a broken ear, but no more! I want to enjoy life. I just recently plastexed mine back together and if they crack more i'll repair em again. Just looks so much cleaner now.

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If anyone has a decent fiberglass shop these could be reproduced i imagine, though yeah the prices would be nuts for such a small part...

 

I'm with capn on the voltmeter though, with modern regrec bypassing the melty red connector going straight to it's own fuse and the battery, soldered stator leads, just ignore it. You can also mount one of the trick single LED meters if you want, i've also got one i've been meaning to install but I just haven't gotten around to it. https://gammatronixltd.com/ There's one mode where you tell it to be stealthy/off under healthy voltage so you'll only see the light when it's over/under preferred range so i won't have to shut it off to keep it from bugging you.

 

I would really like to sneak in a tiny fuel gauge, something surface mount on top of a side panel for peace of mind. I can't seem to find any era appropriate looking ones though, or anything not huge and ugly. I found a tiny LED bar one that works on bikes with measurable hydrostatic pressure, but it won't work with our weird deep tanks that require pumps, i already asked if it would work with a float gauge(which we could get from 88/89 model and replace our low sensor) but it is not compatible. https://www.lskelectronics.com/store/FuelGaugePro-Bar-Graph-Display-Panel-Kit-p286787313 

 

I just recently redid the carbs on my 700 and used the guide from Joe over at v4dreams and it worked a treat, such a great resource. All the tips i needed, though i did take a ton of pics of the my own from all angles just to make sure I wasn't messing anything up. http://v4dreams.com/maintenance.html

I also read stuff bookmarked from magna forums that seems to work well for me: http://v4musclebike.com/articles/magnandy/Andy's Carb Cleaning Guide.pdf

Setting the bench sync was easiest for me with a 1/8" wide strip of paper(found that tip on some random forum post), dragging that under the throttle plate on the nonadjustable one first and setting the idle screw, the setting the other 3 to match using the linkage adjusters. On the bike at first start the thing was super close right off the bat, barely needed any tweaking to get about perfect per the MotionPro Sync Pro tool i've got.

 

I installed the metal fuel joints from vinscoottubes on ebay while I was at it, no more worrying about the plastic joints and old o rings. https://www.ebay.com/str/vinscoottubes

 

 

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5 hours ago, atx said:

I just recently plastexed mine back together and if they crack more i'll repair em again.

I have been looking but have seen nothing on ebay, not even a busted up panel...

Does plastex work well for you atx? I have some cracks and mounts to fix, but thats down the road a little bit.

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Yeah i love plastex. You have to be careful with the liquid portion because it messes with the finish of plastic it touches, but otherwise it's super easy to use. I used to mix it in a little cup and goop it on like epoxy, but i saw some vid where they put the plastic powder right on the area for repair then dripped the liquid onto it, and have had good luck doing that and doing that way a little bit at a time. It will stink up the whole house if you do it inside, so be careful haha. I've not tried plastic welding setups before, those might be the way to go for bigger jobs, but this works well for my uses. I used it all over the back of my fairings to repair and strengthen cracks, left it thick because who cares on the back, and it has held up well.

https://www.webbikeworld.com/plastex-plastic-repair-kit/

This page has a decent guide on what appears to be a rebranded version of it, i didn't try it this way either but looks good. https://www.polyvance.com/repair-broken-fairing/

 

 

 

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So, I'm still waiting for my shock to come home and am gearing up to pull the carbs. 

While the water pipe is exposed I have / or is coming;

o-rings, thermostat and hoses. Radiator checked and new cap. (back up radiator if needed)

The carbs are getting;

Alum fuel tubes/lines and o-rings.

The carbs were separated and in a box when the bike first came home.  Although I have had the carbs apart before back in the 80's and 90's I have not had to separate them (this was a first). So when I put the carbs together (3 years ago) they got; ebay rebuild kits, I think new boots (would have been OEM), We were missing 1 needle!.. so a New Dynijet Kit (I think it came with slide return springs), fuel tube o-rings, disassembled and ultrasound.

The bike ran well, so my son says I however thought it sounded and smelled a little on the rich side, I plan on lowering the needles 1 groove while I'm in there. I have some bulk screws to refresh the cap and bowl screws and boot bands, some of those were chewed up.

Am I missing anything?

How deep should this cleaning be?

Pics will come...

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