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86 VFR700F Retool or therapy or both


tsmitty

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Hmmmm.....   something doesn't seem right.  The collar should be vulcanized into the rubber of the bushing. If worn / damaged, the whole bushing gets pressed out and replaced.  The inner collar is not meant to spin or be removed from the bushing.

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32 minutes ago, Captain 80s said:

Hmmmm.....   something doesn't seem right.

Yup! probably my explanation. Don't worry, most the time I know what I'm saying.

I prob don't have the terminology right I'm talking about the linkage pivot point at the lower shock clevis.

No rubber there. Here's some picks. 

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3 minutes ago, tsmitty said:

Yup! probably my explanation. Don't worry, most the time I know what I'm saying.

I prob don't have the terminology right I'm talking about the linkage pivot point at the lower shock clevis.

No rubber there. Here's some picks. 

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That's not the stock bushing.  Not sure if you know that.

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3 minutes ago, Captain 80s said:

That's not the stock bushing.  Not sure if you know that.

I kind of remember the home madeish looking clevis, the one that came with the shock (it was new, saved for a while) must have been too narrow or something. The pin and bushing I don't remember, at the time I don't think I would have had access to the tooling to make that change. 

Well when someone torqued this mess together the both ends of the tube flared into the bushing and...

 

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The center collar of the stock bushing is thick wall and as I said, doesn't move or spin.  It can take the factory torque of the clevis bolt.

 

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It appears somebody was "fixing" a problem that likely didn't exist.

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24 minutes ago, Captain 80s said:

It appears somebody was "fixing" a problem that likely didn't exist.

Is there an aftermarket alternative for the bushing?  If not, I may have to fab up a larger pin. Is there a distributer for seals like the honda gods using on this piece? I might be able to stuff two of those in there as well.

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I might have a whole linkage piece you can have for a very attractive price if interested. 

 

Also, perhaps instead of a bolt you might come up with a clevis pin from McMaster or Grainger that is the right size.

 

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39 minutes ago, Captain 80s said:

Also, perhaps instead of a bolt you might come up with a clevis pin from McMaster or Grainger that is the right size.

Or a nice long shoulder bolt, its a nominal size. The bushing ID is .502ish 

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On 6/18/2023 at 2:24 PM, Captain 80s said:

Your Fox Twin Clicker is/was a great shock.  I would set yours to at least 275, or whatever it is now if already longer.

The shock was set at about 275 it showing signs of seepage at the shaft seal. The shackle thru bolt holes have been repositioned; you can see two older holes have been welded up but it still looks usable.

I'm slowing my jets down a bit here. Yes I want to replace that link piece if you have one, the shackle bushing Honda put in there is a must and getting that shock rebuilt is a must as well. I can't let that shock sit there like that and I sure don't have the knowllage and tooling to pull that job off! I have some smaller projects to do in my basement to get me thru the hot summer days coming up. 

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Here is what the shock looks like. I'll clean it up and send it in on of these days. Thanks for the link to the shock dude Captain. 

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Looks like somebody extracted the clevis off of a stock shock and adapted it to the Fox.

 

I did something similar on the RC26 adapting a Fox Shock from a CBR.

 

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I cleaned up a little in the garage and thought I would evaluate this journey of mine; the bike is coming along nicely I think. I know some will read this and say I spent too much money, they're right! I spent some bad money too, referring to the radiator and FII wire harness, regrettable but nothing to kick myself too badly about. My priorities have mainly been electrical (except engine stuff), suspension, engine electrical/tuning, aesthetics. I messed up last time and let this bike get out of the garage not in working order. Not this time! 

As for the therapy part of this swan song; its been wonderful to work on this old girl, I kid you not I have sat in the garage just staring and remembering story after story trip after trip...yeah, the "therapy" part of this whole deal is coming along nicely as well...

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7 minutes ago, Captain 80s said:

Looks like somebody extracted the clevis off of a stock shock

Am I good here in your opinion? It has no jamb nut though, is one needed?

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17 minutes ago, Captain 80s said:

Looks like somebody extracted the clevis off of a stock shock and adapted it to the Fox.

Captain I just don't remember doing this stuff, especially the brass bushings on the linkage. Well there is about 20000 unaccounted for miles on the bike; "junior skid mark" must have hammered the shit out of the bike until he took the carbs apart and couldn't put them back together and sold it. lol 

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34 minutes ago, tsmitty said:

Am I good here in your opinion? It has no jamb nut though, is one needed?

 

I think it is a very good idea to add one.  You can find them pretty thin if needed.  It's undue stress on the threads, and the whole system, without it in my opinion.  Even though it can't actually back-out or go anywhere.

 

But I don;t see any problem with the clevis itself as long as it passes inspection for cracks, damage or failing weld.  It def looks like a stock Honda clevis.

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On 5/2/2023 at 10:22 PM, Terry said:

The rubber feeler on the sidestand pre-date the introduction of the sidestand switch. Their purpose is to flick the stand up before you hit hard parts when you have forgotten to raise the stand. I learned (the hard way) that they don't always work when you flick into a slow tight turn really quickly...

 

I must admit I wondered why the earlier RC24/26 had one while the later RC24 didn't. The 88-89 RC24 however has a sidestand switch with both a warning light and a cut-out!

 

Unsure if the later one would just fit though (and you'd have to import from Europe etc), Honda moved the position of the gear change shaft so things are a bit different in that area. 

 

https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/honda-motorcycle/750-MOTO/VFR/1986/VFR750FG/Frame/STAND-1-/13ML7G41/F__2300/2/10147

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https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/honda-motorcycle/750-MOTO/VFR/1988/VFR750FJ/Frame/STAND-2-/13ML7G41/F__2301/2/10171

 

 

 

 

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18 hours ago, tsmitty said:

Here is what the shock looks like. I'll clean it up and send it in on of these days. Thanks for the link to the shock dude Captain. 

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The spring on the Fox comes off really easy.  Back off the pre-load adjuster, slide the lower stop up and remove the split ring.  You could do some better pre-cleaning before the shock service and maybe save a few bucks.  Suspension techs really don't like grungy shocks and forks when they get them.  You could at least ensure a more positive attitude towards your shock.

 

Could also prep and re-paint your spring if you are so inclined.

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On 6/18/2023 at 6:25 PM, tsmitty said:

Thanks Captain, that's very relieving to know!

What are your thoughts on the shock? 

I don't know the model number, red coil spring. I have no reason to think anythings wrong but I don't know if it still has any, I guess nitrogen, and sure don't know the pressure it needs.

I ain't looked yet, is shock length in the manual...?    lol

 

Stock '86 270mm

Stock '87+ (uses different linkage and a harder shock) 280mm

Recommendation generally is to use the '86 linkage with up to a 295mm shock (ideally an adjustable one).... but that is really needed if you're also fitting CBR600F2 or CBR600F3 wheels with more modern tyres as a 160/60 R17 is 41.4mm smaller diameter (1.63") which lowers the back ~20mm  (~4/5"). 

 

They can afford to go up quite some way before it gets anything other than stable, you can lower the front instead but then you start to lose ground clearance. Not a problem on the road but is if it goes to the track (as found out with the footpegs!)

 

Also if you've already stiffened the front then effectively it's raised it quite a bit. Fork springs are almightily soft as stock, I measured mine (stock) as 40mm (~1.5") unloaded/static sag while it should be about 30-35mm (for the road).

 

That said, I'm genuinely unsure about wtf is going on with the Honda claimed rake/trail on these, having drawn it out based on measurements from mine ('88) the claimed 27°40' and 108mm (4.3") is physically impossible. Either the '86 runs a different offset and they didn't update the specs or they're measuring rake and trail individually under different conditions! I figure though using a 120/70R17 front can take it to about 26° while keeping trail at a nice 100mm (4in), or a tiny bit more for the original tyres (as they're larger diameter which all things being equal increases trail). 

 

 

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14 minutes ago, Fastdruid said:

 

Stock '86 270mm

Stock '87+ (uses different linkage and a harder shock) 280mm

 

 

86 is 265

87 is 275

 

I have both sitting on my bench in the shop right now and verified it before reporting 30 posts ago.

 

After a good read of this thread it seems like the OP has already gone thru a bunch of stuff and is just trying to restore what he created years ago, not reinvent the bike.

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Captain; I am going to clean that shock up. I didn't think that spring would come off so easily I'll try, but after flexing that front fork .300 trying to straighten it I told myself I was done with springy things! lol 

Fastdruid; thanks for the set-up advise. I'll put the shock back at just under 11", the way it was. The bike is basically in retirement just like its owner lol. It will never see the aggressive riding she once did. I'm just here preventing decay lmao in both the bike and me! 

 

                    Fact: I found it bad luck to go into a track weekend with clean wheels!

                   Assumption: Duct tape must have been on sale that week!

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Loved that v4 torque coming out of the corners. Never got to experience slicks only DOT's.

 

6 hours ago, Fastdruid said:

They can afford to go up quite some way before it gets anything other than stable, you can lower the front instead but then you start to lose ground clearance. Not a problem on the road but is if it goes to the track (as found out with the footpegs!)

I was never that talented to asses what the bike was doing let alone what needed to be done to correct a problem that may or may not have existed lol. I was totally clueless of even basic suspension,   And its way too late to learn now! At the time all my attention was being spent on trying to control this machine that was by far faster than I! lol As for "sag and ride height, ground clearance" and all that mumbo jumbo, its over my head and another dogs fight for this project; Im going to hang the shock when I can afford to and move on to the engine, that's all pretty much bolt on shit with a few surprises along the way I'm sure...

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Don't get me wrong guys I'm pretty proud of my abilities with the bike; out of a group of 30 riders I finished about 15 position that's in both 750 and super bike on DOT's, I think 10 lap sprints...thats if I actually finished lol 

Being lapped in super bike will make your butt pucker!

 

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untitledshoot-0748.thumb.jpg.e5ac60ac83a060ce19735b7980d55f53.jpgSo I pulled the cover to put a clutch in and found this. The second clutch plate in from the outside shows bluing, the plate is flat, parralell and thickness is the same as the others. The friction discs on either side of the steel disc don't look unusual. 

 Then I saw something not so good.  Broken starter clutch. So is this a game changer? Does anyone have one for sale. Can these be repaired? How should I proceed?

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