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  • Member Contributer
Posted

Cap. have you played around with that piece of fabric I sent you? the reason I asked is one of your in-fills; the left lower mount screw well is disintegrating at the bottom. Both the top and bottom screw locations have been epoxied. Well I'm thinking of that cloth material, it bonds so well to that abs plastic. I'll get some pics tomorrow, I know my description is pretty weak. 

  • Member Contributer
Posted

I know exactly what you're talking about.  That epoxy job was a "oh shit, I need this done right now for tomorrow" job, always meant to be revisited and correctly redone.  The epoxy was the right stuff, just no reinforcement plan in the moment.  Was just trying to keep the pieces from literally falling apart.  The fact that it lasted this long is pretty remarkable.  That plastic and that epoxy are perfect mates.

 

I think that "fabric" is a good application for those areas.  I was even planning on making some plastic "donuts" to go around the mounts on the back side for additional strength.

 

 

  • Like 1
  • Member Contributer
Posted

Yes! on the same track!

I'll talk later with you about it.

  • Member Contributer
Posted
19 hours ago, Captain 80s said:

I was even planning on making some plastic "donuts" to go around the mounts on the back side for additional strength.

The stuff won't adhere to any epoxy. But still a great idea.

This is what I guess would be plan 1... 

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This is what I was thinking; I have some ABS sheet. ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BJDKZWDF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 )

Making a new counterbore bottom, using the cloth as double sided sticky, then filling the back with more sandwiched abs and that plastic repair powder. Cant remember the name right now...Plastex or something.

 

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The con's of this would be loss of counterbore depth. The "shoulder screws" would need spacers to make up for the thickness change so the pretty infill still floats... 🙂

The pro's are top ascetics around the screw (hope) new pliable plastic to float around that shoulder screw.

Whats your thoughts?

Posted

I was thinking drilling thru the tube and the side of the gauge mount bracket as is right there, small bolt and nut, conical washer. The tube would be so much more sturdy or rigid not smushed down there. 

  • 1 month later...
  • Member Contributer
Posted

So my son Jay calls me up and says "the bikes dead, it acted like it was out of gas so I turned on the pump switch and that helped for a while then it ran out of fuel, dead"! Well the repair vehicle (me) with the I'll fitting, extremely loud back up pump to the rescue with success! What frustrates me is, the flipping thing was brand new, not 10 miles on it!

 

Is there a distributer that carries decent fuel pumps or am I rolling the dice on ebay again??

Thanks...

 

 

  • Member Contributer
Posted

You put a Chinese $10 one in it? 

  • Member Contributer
Posted
1 hour ago, tsmitty said:

So my son Jay calls me up and says "the bikes dead, it acted like it was out of gas so I turned on the pump switch and that helped for a while then it ran out of fuel, dead"! Well the repair vehicle (me) with the I'll fitting, extremely loud back up pump to the rescue with success! What frustrates me is, the flipping thing was brand new, not 10 miles on it!

 

Is there a distributer that carries decent fuel pumps or am I rolling the dice on ebay again??

Thanks...

 

 

 

What was it?  Generic?

 

You're gonna want to work on adapting a straight inlet/outlet style pump to gain some selection.  

 

Look at the attached K&L Pump application chart.  I look for used genuine Mitsubishi pumps of the 18-5529 style on eBay.  I find the newest, lowest mile one that has a return policy.  I have done this about 7 times now and have only got one dud.  They instantly refunded me and didn't want want the pump back, so I got a good amount of formed fuel line and clamps for free.

 

All the other pumps have worked perfect.  The last one I got was from a YZF600, had 14K miles on it and looked brand new.  $30 shipped.  Pump.jpg.b92e79b356ee26099dbbbc0b6802e6a3.jpg

 

You can also buy a new K&L or TourMax pump (both genuine Mistsu) but they are not cheap.

K&L_Fuel_Pumps.pdf

  • Thanks 1
  • Member Contributer
Posted
8 hours ago, bmart said:

You put a Chinese $10 one in it? 

I did...😔

8 hours ago, Captain 80s said:

I look for used genuine Mitsubishi pumps of the 18-5529 style on eBay.

Thanks, I'll do that. Thanks!

  • Member Contributer
Posted

Thanks again Captain, I spent some time this morning web shopping and will see what Jay wants to do, he got the cash, my budget was blown on that tail cowl from sixdog, hell I'm selling shit off no-a-days! haha Don't regret buying that tail cowl one bit though...that piece is so pretty!

I saw some new Mitsubishi pumps you mentioned as well...it wouldn't hurt me if Jay wanted to go that route too...

 

  • Member Contributer
Posted

Still asking about the Chinese ones. 

 

I've used a bunch of different ones to rebuild the track bike fuel pumps and the CB-1. The cheap chinese ones don't last very long and do not work consistently. There are Japanese ones available also. Those have worked well for me on the track bikes. For the CB-1, I eventually ended up with a Honda one from another bike and just swapped the connector. 

 

Being stuck on the side of the road with a "new" pump sucks... At least with the old ones (carbs) you can usually knock them with something and they work a while longer, enough to get you home or to a destination. 

  • Member Contributer
Posted
1 hour ago, bmart said:

Still asking about the Chinese ones. 

Yes it was a 30 dollar made in china sold in US and it still took a month to get here. I thought...how can china fuck up a fuel pump! 

Well I'll be looking while Jay decides how he wants to go, I did encourage a new mitsubishi or D&L as the Captain mentioned as an option.

I would love to have some lucky fucker to just get on her and go for a day or two without a chase vehicle... 

 

But, on a positive note, slowly the bike is getting sorted out as best I can, it only has about 25 or so miles sense her rebirth last fall, unfortunately I can only account for about a mile of that. 

  • Member Contributer
Posted

I pulled the trigger on the YZF pump. Thanks for your help looking Captain.

I would love to talk Jay into riding the bike to Vintage Days at Mid Ohio this year. She's not a show piece but she aint no slouch. 😉

 

  • Member Contributer
Posted

Like I said, you're gonna have to get a little creative getting the lines turned to go up and over the coolant tank.  I've used some brass 90 deg fittings on some other bikes where I created room for the extra length coming out of the pump.  Small section of fuel line with the fittings butted right up to the pump spigots,

 

Some others have cut the fuel pump spigots short and eliminated the bead.  I haven't had to resort to that.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
  • Member Contributer
Posted

Just getting started here; I had my work area full of slot cars and track I was eBaying...

Can the pump be moved and lay any flatter?

Posted

When I revived mine the fuel pump leaked...I bought a new Chinese one...which immediately blew the fuse on trying it. Turned out to be wired backwards. 

 

I ended up taking the points out of the leaking one and fitting them to the original pump (that I'd replaced with the current one but kept because of learning you could replace the points on them). 

 

Anyway, its worth keeping the old pumps for that reason (unless leaking) or the diaphragm itself has split (ie it's still ticking but not actually pumping).  You can get aftermarket replacement points or buy cheap "identical but for the ends" pumps and swap out the internals. 

  • Member Contributer
Posted
2 hours ago, tsmitty said:

Just getting started here; I had my work area full of slot cars and track I was eBaying...

Can the pump be moved and lay any flatter?

 

Of course.  Also, you might be able to make a small bracket to move the pump rearward a little to bridge the pump holder and the subframe mount.

 

I'm very close to doing this same project and have been thinking about it, but haven't actually started fitting and modding anything.

  • Member Contributer
Posted
2 hours ago, tsmitty said:

Just getting started here; I had my work area full of slot cars and track I was eBaying...

 

About 2 years ago I sold my AFX slot car stuff that I had saved since they were new as a kid.  I had A LOT and had some sought after stuff.  I did pretty damn good.  Saved all of the track that had broken tabs, my 4 favorite cars (two MagnaTraction and two G-Plus), a power section, transformer and two controllers.  I'm gonna lay out a track on the ceiling of my shop with two cars "racing".

  • Member Contributer
Posted
22 minutes ago, Captain 80s said:

I'm gonna lay out a track on the ceiling of my shop with two cars "racing".

Have you seen Carrera Digital slot cars? Please do some YouTube research; it might change the direction you go...lane changing, computer interface...lap times...6 cars at a time racing. Sad to sell it.

 

1 hour ago, Captain 80s said:

Of course.  Also, you might be able to make a small bracket to move the pump rearward a little to bridge the pump holder and the subframe mount.

I may do just as you said, bring it up and tilt it just a little flatter still maintaining the little drain. 

The F/Pump you linked to earlier never got delivered and I know this will bring a cringe, I'm putting a new Mitubichi on it. Please keep me posted or pics of how you do yours.

3 hours ago, Fastdruid said:

Anyway, its worth keeping the old pumps for that reason (unless leaking) or the diaphragm itself has split (ie it's still ticking but not actually pumping).  You can get aftermarket replacement points or buy cheap "identical but for the ends" pumps and swap out the internals. 

Thanks Fast. I peeked under the cover at the points! and slowly put the cover back on...haha 

But I wonder if the bottoms can be removed...replaced or exchanged?

  • Member Contributer
Posted
9 hours ago, tsmitty said:

Have you seen Carrera Digital slot cars? Please do some YouTube research; it might change the direction you go...lane changing, computer interface...lap times...6 cars at a time racing. Sad to sell it.

 

I'm not going any direction.  If I had room for a slot car track to stay assembled, I wouldn't have sold my vintage stuff in the first place.  It would be part of my giant man cave, along with my sold 1/24 vintage slot cars, HO train tracks, LP collection and coin op pool table.

 

My mock track is going on the CEILING.

  • Like 1
  • Member Contributer
Posted
45 minutes ago, Captain 80s said:

My mock track is going on the CEILING.

ok. Get it.

  • Member Contributer
Posted

The real fuel pump, it appears, is on a slow boat from Japan. 

When I put this together last year, I used Motion Pro 5/16 with some not very confidence inspiring clamps.

What should I be using?

I have a low profile brass 90 coming out of the tank.

 

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Cant remember right now where this bracket came from.

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  • Member Contributer
Posted

Happy 4th ! 

 

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Sorry no scenic background...we don't get out much... haha

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Cant thank you enough Captain 80s for those awesome infills

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  • Like 1
  • Member Contributer
Posted
27 minutes ago, tsmitty said:

Cant remember right now where this bracket came from.

 

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I believe that is the side stand mount to lower cowl bracket.

  • Like 1

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