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I am considering putting a VFR1200 engine into a small car. Does anyone have a diagram of, or be able to provide, the external dimensions of the engine?

I have derestricted the 1st and 2nd gear power limitations. I have made a simple scematic : You will get falsh readings on the dash when 1st or 2nd gear are engaged. I am busy decoding the serial link between ECU and dash. To be continued

They have the connectors and are getting ready to start shipping! Call Tracey at Bazzaz (909-597-8300, ext. 111). She is exceptionally nice and knowledgeable (her husband is a Jordan Suzuki mech. for Roger Hayden and works at Bazzaz in the off season). There are several of you ahead of me, but she expected mine to ship within a couple of weeks. I will put it on when I swap out those ratty OEM Bridgestones for my PilotRoad 3's over the winter. It will show 3rd gear in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd, but that is a small price to get rid of the nanny throttle. You know, Kawasaki and Suzuki sell their big GT's mostly unrestricted. I fail to understand why Honda would do this instead of just installing traction control (I know, the new blue VFR's having traction control). I love this bike, but as their technological flagship, it should have had traction control, cruise control, saddle bags, etc. as standard OEM equipment in 2010 (especially at that MSRP.....I paid less than 2/3 MSRP). Ride safe. Mark Z-Bomb Honda VFR1200F 10-12

Need help to take off the fuel tank covers on my VFR. I have undone all the clips and screws on the tank cover. However, there's one piece left and want to be very sure how to undo it before attempting so as not to break anything. I have attached a picture to indicate the point. Appreciate the help.

Hi everyone. I had a near dead experience past week due to my 2010 Honda VFR1200 having a major braking malfunction. I have owned the old school 2002 and 2004 vfr800 and they have been nothing but a blessing to ride, so I decided I give the vfr1200 a try. Got one a few months back in almost pristine condition and with only 13k miles. The other day I took this bike out for a ride in the back roads. Towards the end of my ride (I was riding a pretty good pace) Im going about 60 mph I apply the front brakes and nothing I apply the rears and nothing. The entire brake system it seemed was disengaged. I thought for sure I was going to crash but I somehow managed to make it out of the turn (If I didn't I would have been on the bottom of the mountain and pretty dead). When I came to a stop I noticed fluid dripping all over my rear tire which seemed to be coming from the rear brake caliper. After I came to a stop and restarted the bike in like 2 mins the front brake was working fine now but the rear brake was still gone. I got home inspected the brakes and I will include pictures of what I saw. I have never seen anything like this. The rear brake pads which were pretty new have been grinded down to bare metal, the disk pad is shredded and the caliper pistons have been pushed out with such force that they have peeled back into themselves like a banana, in the process the o-rings have blown and all the rear brake fluid has been leaked out. I would like to add that the front brake system is absolutely fine. You can imagine at this point I'm quite upset. I have a few questions from the VFR experts and mechanics in here. Look at the pictures and give me your input on what might have happened here cause i'm clueless. Can the ABS system on this bike completely disable both the front and rear brake systems? If yes isn't that a big safety issue? What would cause the pistons to act in such way? Any input appreciated I will soon talk to an expert mechanic that will inspect the bike and a lawyer.

Howdy folks. I figured I might as well join a forum or two for my new (to me) bike purchase, a 2010 VFR1200. I decided after a few years of tinkering, fixing, and building my 1975 GL1000 Goldwing that I was tired of dealing with carbs and wanted something more powerful and better handling that could also still cover longer distance rides. I have always wanted a VFR1200 ever since they came out, and while many people seem very split on their opinions of the bike, I can say that it feels like Honda asked me what I thought the ultimate bike was and built it. This is my GL1000, and she has been an incredibly fun old bike, especially after fitting progressive rear shocks and RaceTech front springs and Gold Valve emulators with a fork brace. A Hydraulic clutch conversion and a few other upgrades later, a bit of a diet, and some Suzuki Sunlight Copper Pearl metallic paint make one nice looking machine (if I say so myself). However, it is time to move on, so she is going to a new owner soon. Anyway, on to the reason I am here. I went out and got myself a younger "hotter" redhead. I was actually not planning on even buying a bike for a couple more months, but when I saw this bike up for sale for a really good price, I had to jump all over it. After the ride home, she has a tick over 10k miles, and has a House of Kolor Orange Pearl Metallic paint job (previous owner was a paint and body shop owner). It also has some Throttlemeister bar ends and came with a few extra goodies like a Corbin seat, taller clear windshield, and Honda Panniers. My next steps are to get new tires, as the front is worn very poorly, and they are skirting on 5 years old. I also plan on sending my forks and rear shocks off to Daugherty Motorsports to get setup for my rather large self as this suspension was definitely not intended to handle all 6'4 260lbs of me. While I know the high end Ohlins stuff is worth its weight in gold, I am not a hardcore corner carver/track rider, so it's all wasted on me. Plus I have read nothing but great things about DMr setups on these bikes. The only other things in my plans for this bike is a DAM slip on because I don't like the look or sound of the Two Brothers can that is currently on the bike, and maybe some lighting upgrades. Anyway, thanks for taking the time to read my ramblings, and sorry if the pictures are too big. I look forward to reading through other mods/upgrades and various discussions on this amazing bike.

Howdy folks. I figured I might as well join a forum or two for my new (to me) bike purchase, a 2010 VFR1200. I decided after a few years of tinkering, fixing, and building my 1975 GL1000 Goldwing that I was tired of dealing with carbs and wanted something more powerful and better handling that could also still cover longer distance rides. I have always wanted a VFR1200 ever since they came out, and while many people seem very split on their opinions of the bike, I can say that it feels like Honda asked me what I thought the ultimate bike was and built it. This is my GL1000, and she has been an incredibly fun old bike, especially after fitting progressive rear shocks and RaceTech front springs and Gold Valve emulators with a fork brace. A Hydraulic clutch conversion and a few other upgrades later, a bit of a diet, and some Suzuki Sunlight Copper Pearl metallic paint make one nice looking machine (if I say so myself). However, it is time to move on, so she is going to a new owner soon. Anyway, on to the reason I am here. I went out and got myself a younger "hotter" redhead. I was actually not planning on even buying a bike for a couple more months, but when I saw this bike up for sale for a really good price, I had to jump all over it. After the ride home, she has a tick over 10k miles, and has a House of Kolor Orange Pearl Metallic paint job (previous owner was a paint and body shop owner). It also has some Throttlemeister bar ends and came with a few extra goodies like a Corbin seat, taller clear windshield, and Honda Panniers. My next steps are to get new tires, as the front is worn very poorly, and they are skirting on 5 years old. I also plan on sending my forks and rear shocks off to Daugherty Motorsports to get setup for my rather large self as this suspension was definitely not intended to handle all 6'4 260lbs of me. While I know the high end Ohlins stuff is worth its weight in gold, I am not a hardcore corner carver/track rider, so it's all wasted on me. Plus I have read nothing but great things about DMr setups on these bikes. The only other things in my plans for this bike is a DAM slip on because I don't like the look or sound of the Two Brothers can that is currently on the bike, and maybe some lighting upgrades. Anyway, thanks for taking the time to read my ramblings, and sorry if the pictures are too big. I look forward to reading through other mods/upgrades and various discussions on this amazing bike.

Howdy folks. I figured I might as well join a forum or two for my new (to me) bike purchase, a 2010 VFR1200. I decided after a few years of tinkering, fixing, and building my 1975 GL1000 Goldwing that I was tired of dealing with carbs and wanted something more powerful and better handling that could also still cover longer distance rides. I have always wanted a VFR1200 ever since they came out, and while many people seem very split on their opinions of the bike, I can say that it feels like Honda asked me what I thought the ultimate bike was and built it. This is my GL1000, and she has been an incredibly fun old bike, especially after fitting progressive rear shocks and RaceTech front springs and Gold Valve emulators with a fork brace. A Hydraulic clutch conversion and a few other upgrades later, a bit of a diet, and some Suzuki Sunlight Copper Pearl metallic paint make one nice looking machine (if I say so myself). However, it is time to move on, so she is going to a new owner soon. Anyway, on to the reason I am here. I went out and got myself a younger "hotter" redhead. I was actually not planning on even buying a bike for a couple more months, but when I saw this bike up for sale for a really good price, I had to jump all over it. After the ride home, she has a tick over 10k miles, and has a House of Kolor Orange Pearl Metallic paint job (previous owner was a paint and body shop owner). It also has some Throttlemeister bar ends and came with a few extra goodies like a Corbin seat, taller clear windshield, and Honda Panniers. My next steps are to get new tires, as the front is worn very poorly, and they are skirting on 5 years old. I also plan on sending my forks and rear shocks off to Daugherty Motorsports to get setup for my rather large self as this suspension was definitely not intended to handle all 6'4 260lbs of me. While I know the high end Ohlins stuff is worth its weight in gold, I am not a hardcore corner carver/track rider, so it's all wasted on me. Plus I have read nothing but great things about DMr setups on these bikes. The only other things in my plans for this bike is a DAM slip on because I don't like the look or sound of the Two Brothers can that is currently on the bike, and maybe some lighting upgrades. Anyway, thanks for taking the time to read my ramblings, and sorry if the pictures are too big. I look forward to reading through other mods/upgrades and various discussions on this amazing bike.

I believe these are all with the stock pipe, and it's not clear from the naming what's going on in the first image; it may be just their baseline runs overlaid. ...if anyone understands "dyno lingo" let me know. lol These runs were done a while back when my bike had only 1700 miles on it. I can tell that the motor has woken up a bit since then so I'm looking forward to getting it back on the dyno with it fully broken in and the Akro pipe installed. Stock mapping (maybe the black line is with the Z-Fi unit and map): 1st gear with (black) and without (red) the Z-Bomb (removes 1st & 2nd gear limitations): 2nd gear with (black) and without (red) Z-Bomb: I'm told they have all the connectors for the Z-Fi unit, but are having some issues getting the right connectors for the Z-Bomb (hoping to be resolved in the next couple weeks). All this reaffirms what my butt tells me every time I hit the twisties (mostly all 2nd gear) ...WTF was Honda thinking with this BS limiting of the 1st & 2nd??? The way the power sags then comes on just SUCKS. For most of the twisty roads I've found in Southern California, 1st is just too short and 2nd is on the lugging side, which means you have to ride through that horrible trough constantly, usually pulling out of the apex of a turn. I can do it in 1st and stay up in the power band, but man talk about needing a LOT of throttle control! lol It's really a shame that Honda did this to cripple what is an otherwise very easy to handle 140-150hp bike. ...it really is borderline dangerous, and I can't wait to get it fixed permanently, even if it means having the gear indicator on the dash not working correctly anymore.

Does any one have any idea how I could modify a Z-bomb with an on off switch, to effectively turn it on and off at will? I have a Z-Bomb installed and plan to buy another to modify, the plan would be to put a switch on the dash or under the seat I know a poster used a switch after splicing wires to turn the restrictions on and off, perhaps this could be applied to a Z-Bomb?

I'm about to make a deal on a VFR1200 at Reno's Power Sports in Kansas City. I need some one in the area to check out the bike for me. A 2010, It has Leo Vince exhaust, hard bags, 13k miles on it. I'm dying to get back in the VFR world! Who can help me out? Could you make your saturday ride swing through KC????

I'm about to make a deal on a VFR1200 at Reno's Power Sports in Kansas City. I need some one in the area to check out the bike for me. A 2010, It has Leo Vince exhaust, hard bags, 13k miles on it. I'm dying to get back in the VFR world! Who can help me out? Could you make your saturday ride swing through KC????

I checked the manual and it only says "Honda Hypoid Gear oil SAE 80". It doesn't mention anything about GL-4 or GL-5. So any gear oil that is sae 80 will work? also these are the only gear oil I can find where I'm from: Will any of these work for the VFR 1200 Final Drive?

As some of you may recall, last summer I let my wife ride my 1200 for the first time and it didn’t end so well (link). Thus began the process to replace all the damaged bits. Most everything was done via a large purchase though Ron Ayers online catalog, but the scratched clutch cover got me thinking about the SEBSPEED Covers seen on other VFR generations. A PM went out to @SEBSPEED and we got the ball rolling. While Seb HAS done one other cover mod on a 1200, whoever ordered the other cover never reported back… it doesn’t count unless there are pictures right? Since the 1200 clutch is a bit different than the 5/6 generations, I thought I would post up some more details. Since I wasn’t quite sure what I would be dealing with or what sort of complications I would run into, I figured it was best to buy a new (pre-scratched) clutch cover and have it sent to Seb. This way, my bike wasn’t down while I figured out the details. My biggest challenge was the pressure plate. As seen here, the 1200’s slipper clutch is held in with a C clip instead of 5 bolts as with other generations. The problem isn’t really that the pressure plate is held in with a C clip, it’s that Honda went ahead and made the pressure plate and bearing a single piece. They do not separeate (easily) like with other generations. I’m sure someone with the right tools can separate the two, but I didn’t want to push my luck. Powdercoating the pressure plate is out. I’ve heard success stories about rattle canning the pressure plate, so I prepped the plate and rattle canned the snot out of it. About this time, I’ve got my new unpainted clutch cover from Seb. I had the eBay seller ship it directly to him, so I don’t have any before/after pictures, but Seb does some GREAT work (as can be read in MANY other posts). My powdercoater commented that Seb welded the ring inside and out… Seb made the inside welds look just as good as the outside ones even though they will never be seen… so . Since I was having the new cover powdercoated, I wanted to try and match the OEM color as close as possible. It’s not an exact match, but close enough since my old and new covers weren’t even quite the same color. Jacobson’s Welding and Powder Coating out of the Twin Cities did a great job on the paint. How did the install go? With the right tools, it was cake. Pull out all the bolts, a couple light taps with my handy rubber mallet, and the cover came right off. I was expecting a 2 hour ordeal base off other experiences I’ve read. Took me all of 15 minutes to get it done… and I was taking my time since I didn’t want to break anything. Just watch out for the CKT sensor attached to the inside of the cover… don’t want to break that… (I swear the picture was in focus when I took the stupid shot)... Cover is off, swap out old pressure plate with new painted pressure plate. I purchased a C clip tool specifically for this job… and boy am I glad I did. Trying to use a needle nose like I’ve done for years is for the birds… A quick test fit with the new cover. New gasket seal, replace bolts, torque everything to spec, and button everything up and you are all set! Sorry for the bad final pictures, I was really excited to take them in my dark garage… I’ll get better ones in the daylight.

I have a tentative interest in a 2nd gen 1200 DCT. Not much pickins' online; so wondering if anyone knows of any fs between Washington DC and Albany NY. thanks, Walter

I'm considering a tank bag for when I get my 1200. The OEM bag looks a little small but does look a quality piece of kit. Does that mount flap about at all? Any other issues/comments/positives? Does anyone with an aftermarket tankbag care to offer an opinion of theirs? Pics would be helpful and bear in mind I'm in the UK, not USA so availability & postage may be factors. Many thanks. edit: should have said I'm not really interested in a magnetic mount bag.

Hi Guys, I bought a set of used rims for my VFR1200 on ebay and had them chromed. I like the look, and think they make the porky VFR look a lot lighter and a bit 'sportier'. Here's a link to some more pics: https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipOA-Kns44H9K-5_rvWlNM-ofCDvUTB07zoBE9an Major chicken strips, just put the new Conti-Attacks on, and rode around the block before the photos. BLIGHT

I am on a road trip and it seems my right front caliper is pulsing (antilock). It is leaving very evenly spaced hash marks on my rotor. What might cause this and how can I disable anti-lock just to get through my trip without murdering that rotor?

I knew of the minor weight difference (25 lbs, 10kg) between the 1200 DCT and F models, but never realized that was enough difference for Honda to address it in the brake design. I mean, at 600 lbs, with luggage options and the like, a variety of rider weights, etc., is 25 lbs enough to make different size rear brake pads? Apparently it is. I need to replace the rear pads, and decided to stay OEM because I love the brakes on this bike. Why fix it with aftermarket? So, I trundled into the local dealer to get parts, gave the parts guy the make/model info and he ordered them. The following weekend I fitted them, or tried. Damn pads just would not go on. After some swearing and the like, I gave up and trundled back to the dealer to explore why. The parts guy checked the numbers on the DCT fiche, then checked the numbers on the F fiche. The PN's appeared both places, but he then noticed a second PN on both fiches. Eventually, he figured out the two models had different PN's for their rear pads! Who knew? Funny, the fiches didn't really specify which belonged with which model. So, I ordered the other PN and figured between the two I'd have what I need. The parts showed up a few days later, and sure enough, they are different. I was surprised to see the pads are smaller on the F model. I also noticed the reason the F model won't fit into the DCT caliper - it has a small flange that won't allow it into the DCT caliper. Trust me, it is effective. Below is photographic evidence. The MGE-D01 (top) is the DCT model pad, the MFN-D11 is the F model. The screw driver tip points to the flange on the F model pad that denies use on the DCT. You can see the DCT pads are bigger. Apologies to those that already knew this, but it was news to me and the Honda parts guy. Wonder if it is the same on aftermarket pads?