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Whats the verdict on removing combined braking system. I'm fabricating a new stainless lobster back exhaust system that will have undertail mufflers and I'm tight for space at the rear end. I have thought about removing the terrible combined rear brake system and replacing with independent. It would seam that if I was to do this now it would make it alot easier to route new exhaust. Any feedback would be much appreciated

Had to sell my beautiful 5th Gen recently and found the box of rare parts I never had time to instal. The big ticket items are namely rare Corbin seat (removable passenger backrest), DMr fork kit, and brake de-link kit. None of these were inexpensive, so my loss is your gain.CORBIN LADY GUNFIGHTER SEAT -- SOLD!!! -- This kit was originally $700 which is hard to believe. The leather saddle works in conjunction with the Honda seat cowl for a cool solo look or remove the seat cowl and install the handrails for two up sport touring. With the cowl removed, the saddle design accepts the Corbin removable backrest which is included in this sale. Saddle mounts to the stock internal hardware for a clean installation and is fully adjustable to provide your passenger with a tailored fit. Backrest locks in with a single bolt. SOLD!!! -- 5TH GEN BRAKE DE-LINK KIT -- SOLD!!! -- This kit allows you to convert your 5th gen linked brakes to a standard style setup by swapping VTR1000 (Super Hawk) fork lowers on the 5th gen upper fork tubes and replacing the stock brake parts with standard brakes from Honda models including CBR600 and RC51. I’ve curated nearly every part needed for this from operational, non-damaged parts ordered on eBay over the past year. The only items you will need to purchase are rear brake lines.De-Link Kit Includes:* 2003 RC51 SP2 front brake hose/lines (part num: 45125-MCF-D31) * 2003 CBR 600RR front brake master cylinder assembly (part num: 45510-MEE-006)* 2003 RC51 SP2 rear Brake calipers (part num: 45150-MCF-D32)* 2006 CBR 600F4i rear brake master cylinder assembly (part num: 43510-MBW-E12)* VTR1000 fork lower/ fork case (part num: left side 51520-MBB-003; right side 51420-MBB-003)* 5th Gen Fender mounting brackets from Mello Dude Garage -- these allow you to keep the 5th gen stock fender and mount direct to the VTR1000 lower fork legs. SOLD!!! -- DMr FORK CARTRIDGE KIT -- SOLD!!! Originally purchase for $595 a few years ago. The DMr cartridge kit offers a complete fork upgrade with the addition of having the valving preassembled - that means you do not need to have prior fork revalving experience to install it. The is new in box (NEVER installed) with detailed instructions that guide you through every step. Kit includes all new compression valving, new rebound valving, damping rods and adjustable cap assemblies. Springs are also included.According to Daugherty and folks here on VFRD, there is no other fork upgrade available on the market that offers this level of performance at this price.Kit Includes:* All new DMr BD Series compression valving* All new DMr BD Series rebound valving* Includes springs and spacers for a direct fit* New damping rods and adjustable caps* Adds external damping adjustment on models not equipped from the factory* Valving setup and spring rate configured specifically for each rider and application* Utilizes OEM cartridge tubes, no need to pay for what you don't need* All valving parts are preassembled* Includes detailed instructions for easy installation

The cause of pad retraction is not subject entirely on the return spring in the master cylinder. There is ALSO a significant reaction based on the characteristics of the main piston bore seal holding to the piston. This is why the retraction is only a slight degree compared to the extension of the piston stroke. The rubber seal gets deformed in its place to be pushed forward and forced outward from its recess groove. This coupled with the release of pressure in the fluid ( by the master cylinder return spring) allows the force now held in the deformed seal to pull the piston rearward enhanced by its secure fitment on the outer diameter of the piston. That is why the seal is square. Now the second realization is HOW the sliding caliper works. Since there is no hydraulic piston on the far side of the caliper, only a wall holding another brake pad....there is no hydraulic force generated behind this pad to bring it into intimacy with the rotor disk. This is important to realize. Without the sliding action of those pins allowing the caliper body to slide freely AWAY from its initial positioning on the rotor disk ( by not being a solid unit) to a more backward position, closer to the fixed part of the caliper mount...the outer pad will not be brought..INWARD...into contact with the rotor. This is done by a backward force pushing the caliper itself away from the disk while stil maintaining the first pad’s contact with the rotor.Its a first single inner pad contacting the disk...than pushing the caliper rearward to bring the outer(hub side) pad against inner side of the rotor. Now both brake pads are clamped against the disk. The only other way to make both sets of brake pads clamp onto the rotor... without the movement of a sliding caliper.... is by pro viding a hydraulic chamber and pistons on the far side of the caliper to give a moving brake pad its impetus pushing the pads inward while the calip[er body is fixed to its mounting on the fork leg. you will note that the pad spring actually is notched so that this pad will not slide by design. It is fixed against the back wall of the caliper. This now provides you with crucial information to realize how necessary it is to properly use the flexibility and the clamping axle bolts to center the wheel’s axle and rotor disks to maximize the outboard pad's clearance on caliper installation. There is a limited amount of pad retraction on the piston side of the caliper. Make the axle location adjustment for a definite clearance with the fixed brake pad.... when the brake hydraulic force is inactive. That way the retraction force of the pads is maximized( as little as it is.) Cleanliness and polish on those slide rods is critical as well as a good silicon grease., Inside the boot that covers their exposed end. And their freedom to move independently of the caliper body HAS to be obvious when its mounted on the fork. If the caliper is not properly positioned relative to the the disk, the pad retraction on the side without pistons will be slight to none at all and this all depends on the amount of return slide action it is permitted when the Hydraulic pressure is off. The only variable you can control is the location of the disk relative to the caliper and the free action of the caliper slide rods in the rubber grommets. This information is critical to understand why there is a drag on the brakes. And the reason for little free spin of the front wheel when brakes are released.

Hi VFRD, I have a question regarding the linked brakes (no, I will not de-link). I have ridden the VFR after winter pause and I noticed something. If I apply the front brake first, than the rear brake and let go of the front... The rear brake lever falls down by a few centimeters as if there was not enough brake fluid. Normally I would not ask but I don't remember this happening before winter and the bike just had a fluid change. It is either a bad fluid change or my bad memory. The latter being slightly more possible. So can you please go out and try this on your 5th gen? PS: My thoughts are that this should happen because of how the secondary brake cylinder works but I need it confirmed.... You know... I sort of don't want to crash...

I just picked up a 1998 VFR800 two weeks ago and today the brakes virtually locked up on me as I was pulling into my drive after a long hot ride. I say virtually as I was able to use the motor to muscle the bike up the drive but the brakes were so tight I could not push the bike in any direction without engine power. (At this point I am realizing that I should have tried to get it on the center stand so I could tell if it was one wheel or both, duh!) As they cooled they gradually released a bit. I had noticed on earlier rides a little dragging after a ride but assumed that was normal as I have had the same feeling with other bikes, and today it was way worse. I have the mechanical sense of a 9 year old girl so any help or advice would be much appreciated!

Hi All. After 57,000ks and with a 1800k upcoming trip, thought I'd replace the original front pads. I've always been a fan of the EBC HH's and 9,000ks ago I replaced the rear pads with EBC FA488HH's. A few days ago I fitted two sets of EBC FA390HH's ($59.95 a set AU!) to the front, I have to say, I am very impressed with these new pads, there is just so much less effort on the brake lever required for the same amount of braking compared to the original Tokico pads. Just thought I'd pass this snippet of info on, EBC HH's are a great brake pad, so impressed I won't use anything else. YMMV. Cheers.

Has anybody tried this?, does it work? Delinking vfr 800, 2001, brakes. Problem; I want to get rid of left front brake SMC and assy. (do not ask me why) I have this foolish idea, which needs your confirmation, that it can be done. Solution; Remove left front fork case/casing and replace it with another (same as existing right fork) right fork casing. Remove front left brake SMC and assy (no.06454MBG415) from the front left brake and replace it with rear brake sub assy (no. 06432MBG405). Fits perfectly. tried it. Bolt now the left front brake with rear brake sub assy to fork casing. (Have not tried this since I do not have an exstra right fork casing) Done, only problem I can see is that bolting the front fender on the right fork casing,needs spacers. Does it work/fit? As far as I have measured it should fit. Has anybody tried this?

Hey all, looking for a bit of advice on replacing the rear brake rotor, attempted to replace it today and found that it seems to be mounted on the opposite side of the hub to the wheel (which I found strange) now what I need to know is has anyone actually changed one and if so how is the hub removed and is it a massive job to do

Hi VFR owners and enthusiasts, will you please help me with my dilemma? I saved up some money to put into my VFR (Fi 01) and I have bought a few upgrades for it (future birthday gifts, you know). I wanted bars and stuff that goes along with it 😀 so I got : -LSL superbike handlebars conversion kit (+some bar weights to go with them...I want to keep the stock ones in case I want to return to original form) -Fren Tubo custom braided brake line kit (longer to be able to route them "stock" way even with higher bars) -New steering head bearings ("tapered" set from Tourmax to rid me of old sticky "balls" I've got...😁No pun intended, when I first wrote this) -New (read longer) throttle cables (from 1100 PanEuropean) to keep the cable routing original -And finally new chain and sprockets I've got several questions for people who have done similar mods or just have more experience than me, please. I can do the handlebar conversion by myself BUT I cannot do the other "supporting" mods because I lack tools and experience with them (riveter for the chain and I definetely cannot bleed empty brake lines without tools or set the bearings properly without messing up) 1) In which order should I tackle the mods? All at once, or in small portions? 2) If I give this job to a mechanic, how much should I expect to pay? (maybe I could work with him and help him? ) 3) Clutch hose was promised by supplier of the LSL kit but none arrived, when I contacted him he said it is a mistake on his web (confirmed by LSL that they do not supply the lines)... I want to do the mods with the stock line which should be possible... If I have to change the line, I will go with braided line as it has to be cheaper than OEM Honda line which costs more than 100$ here. The question is: "Are there any differences between hydraulic clutch line and brake lines/ fittings? Which fluid is used? My guess is it is hydraulic but haven't checked the manual yet. 4) Should I watch out for some specific problems?/ Should the mechanic be prepared for something? He services my friends Varadero (also linked brakes, similar year of manufacture) which he rebuild after a nasty crash from bottom up and he knows his stuff so I trust him but still... VFRs have their specific needs 5) I own the bike for a short time so I don't know much about previous service history. Should I clean the calipers even though they work fine just because the brake lines will be apart? I will definetly remember something right after I post this so thank you in advance for your help and please have patience with me. Martin

Hi. I've got 2004 sixth gen vfr and have issue about brakes. Front brakes gives wobbly feel when i press it but don't have that problem with linked back brake. i've cleaned sockets, pistons and checked pads they were all fine. Im starting to think one of the discs is bent. I might give a shot to bend it back cause in worst case scenario i need to replace it anyways. The question is do i need to replace both front discs or can i just switch one? Does having one new and one old disc affect handling in any major ways?

Hi everyone, Does someone know if the front brake calipers from a 3rd Gen 1992 vfr are completely identical to those of a 4th gen 1996 bike? Clearly the discs are very much different but I have the feeling that the calipers are identical. The brake pads for both bikes are the same but I need to know 100% about those calipers. Will be grateful if someone tells me with certainty if I'm right! Greetings, Ivan

Looking for some information please. I have just been arranging for a new set of tyres for my 8th gen. While shopping around some people have told me that the caliper bolts are stretch bolts and need to be replaced when they are dropped to get the wheels out while others have not mentioned it at all. Has anyone else had the same mixed message? Thanks all

My brakes pulse badly after installing new OEM pads. I probably hit the new pads too hard, too soon in the bedding-in process. Any input/insight would be greatly appreciated. Preamble: I did a delink with 5/8" front master cylinder and RC51 SP2 calipers [32mm/30mm pistons] on my 5th gen. These brakes were operating smoothly, running Galfer street/track pads with 80% pad left. Then I rode member RVFR's 5th gen. His full CBR600F4i front brake system [5/8" master cylinder and F4i calipers with 32mm/34mm pistons] running OEM pads STOPPED LIKE WOW with full control, great modulation. The actions I took: [1] Installed OEM pads in my SP2 front calipers. I carefully scuffed the existing stock rotors with emery paper, starting with coarse, then medium, then fine, to remove material the Galfer pads had deposited on the rotors' surface. Cleaned the rotors with brake cleaning fluid until rag came away clean. [1A] Noted that the brakes with new OEM pads were working normally on surface streets and freeway on the way out to the country road where I would bed the pads. [2] Bedded the pads in to transfer pad material from the new OEM pads to the just-scuffed rotors. All brake applications were made smoothly, starting with light lever pressure then increasing quickly to high lever pressure, then releasing steadily, never 'snapping' the lever pressure off. Made 6 hard decelerations from 70mph to 30mph, with no cooling time between brake applications and never slowing to less than 25mph [Never coming to a complete stop]. [3] After the 6 decelerations from 70mph to 30mph, was careful not to come to complete stop and rode with no brakes for several minutes to allow full cooling of the brake components. The result: Front brakes pulsed intensely from high speeds [80-100mph] or mid speeds [50-70mph] all the way down to 20mph or less before they smoothed out. Even at 20-30mph, strong application of the brakes caused pulsing. Hypothesis: I believe I started too hard on the bedding in process; I probably should have done 4-6 decelerations from 40mph to 20 mph with modest lever pressure before moving on to repeated heavy braking from higher speeds. In the bedding process I applied too much brake force too suddenly and deposited pad material unevenly. Attempted solution: I went back to the emery paper and scuffed the rotors again, doing three rounds on each side of each rotor with coarse, medium, then fine emery paper. The pulsing smoothed out somewhat, and now, 1200 miles later, has smoothed further, but is not gone. Research indicates uneven deposits of pad material may be a major cause of pulsing brakes: https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?21352-Not-warped-discs-but-pulsating-brakes! Post #16 here has some pointers: https://www.pnwriders.com/threads/cure-for-pulsing-brakes.194058/ Next steps: [1] Definitely purchase dial indicator and check rotors for warping/runout [2] Possibly have rotors bead blasted. [3] Possibly send rotors to truedisk [truedisk.net] to have them ground flat. [4] Possibly install new OEM pads after bead blasting or flat grinding.

I have an 2014 8th gen with 11,000 kms. A week ago I noticed some shuddering when moderately braking. Very concerning. I put the bike on the front stand and spun the tire. At one specific spot you could hear a grinding sound. Marked the spot and turned it to examine the rotor and found a small piece of raised metal about 2 mm long, 0.5 mm wide and raised enough off the surface to feel it easily with a finger nail. Brake pads are obviously grooved out at the spot of this lump. Haven't checked the rotor run out yet, got to borrow a run out gauge. Getting it this week and will post an update. Hoping they are not warped and stoning down the piece of embedded crap will solve the shudder but not hopeful. anyone else have warped rotors? Has anyone changed rotors and if so, what did you put back on - aftermarket or OEM?

After a landscaper knocked my 1998 VFR800 over in the parking lot outside my apartment (with a lawnmower... that slid down a hill... across a sidewalk... and over a curb!), their insurance company has decided to total my bike and offered me $2085 (base NADA value without any market or modification consideration) to take it away, or about $1200 if I keep it. I have already counter-offered, and the insurer has replied with a request for how I reached my value, so I am building my case for an increased valuation based on average price for similar model years and the value of the parts and accessories on the bike. Unfortunately, since I only got my VFR in May of this year, I was not the one who bought and installed any of the parts, so IDing and valuing them has been a task. Most of the accessories and parts have been easy enough to ID, but I can't tell where the front brake rotors came from, and the PO hasn't been responsive to my questions. Here's a crappy cellphone pic: There aren't any clear identifying markings that I can find, and the hub just lists the minimum disc thickness. I was thinking they might be Galfers, but I have searched ebay, revzilla, and google in general, and I haven't come up with a rotor that exactly matched the design of this one, Galfer or otherwise. Any thoughts or ideas are appreciated!

Hi guys, As a new vfr owner I have a question about linked brakes and low speed u turns etc. I can usually apply the rear brake in slow speed situations to stabilize the bike and make it stand up, does linked braking that includes the front brake also being applied affect that negatively??

Bike is an '85 VF500, but these calipers were used on many models and are similar to other makes, as well. I had to pull what Honda calls the "collar" because they were rusty and gummed up. They didn't move like they should. It's the barrel shaped piece in the pic. I canNOT get this thing back together. The caliper and grooves are clean, the collar is lubed with brake assembly grease, the collars are brand new OEM Honda. I can get the boots in the grooves in the caliper, but they stick up just enough to snag on the collar and roll under. OR...I can get them on the collar and then I can't get them past the caliper body and into the inner groove. Tips or tricks? This is a "before" pic. It's supposed to look like this. There's a groove inside the caliper and a groove on the collar. There are corresponding ridges inside the rubber boot.

Hello All, I am completely stuck here and need some help. I inadvertently engaged the linked brakes on my 2007 ABS while the front calipers were removed. The center piston, left caliper, deployed but was prevented from popping out by the brake pad. I know this piston is the one actuated by the LBS and connected to the rear system. However, for the life of me I can't get the piston back into the caliper to reassemble the bike. I have opened every bleed valve I can find as well as the rear master cylinder, the piston WILL NOT BUDGE. What am I missing? I have read and re-read the Manual as well the extensive DIY thread on bleeding the system. No luck. Please advise. I'm sure I'm missing something simple but, I am completely stuck. Thanks in advance for any advice, thoughts or tips.

Hi there, I have searched, but to no avail. My front wheel has a screatching sound on occasion. I believe it to be the brake slider pins are sticking, how do I go about greasing them, and what grease should I use. I have an 02 vfr non abs with 30k on it. I don't believe its the front bearings because when I take the calipers off, the wheel spins freely. and when I took the calipers off and pushed the pads back by hand the problem when away for awhile. its only noticeable at slow speeds. thanks in advance. Mike

I've just finished stripping, cleaning & re-building the calipers on my 08 6th Gen, replacing all the seals on the calipers plus new fluid following the excellent guide on this site, plus new pads in the rear. Took it out for a test this afternoon, front brakes are awesome but the rear brake needs a long push down to get anything at all but then on the subsequent 2 presses, the pedal moves less and braking improves quickly to being very impressive. Now I'd have thought it meant I hadn't bled all the air out but surely that would mean the pedal depressing a long way every time, not just the first time and it wouldn't subsequently get really, really good. Which it does. So I'm confused and not being an expert in any way, shape or form on brakes, thought I'd ask the assembled masses for thoughts on what the issue could be. New pads? Never had an issue before fitting new pads. So what could it be? Have I put the caliper or hoses back together improperly? Any clues greatly appreciated.

I knew of the minor weight difference (25 lbs, 10kg) between the 1200 DCT and F models, but never realized that was enough difference for Honda to address it in the brake design. I mean, at 600 lbs, with luggage options and the like, a variety of rider weights, etc., is 25 lbs enough to make different size rear brake pads? Apparently it is. I need to replace the rear pads, and decided to stay OEM because I love the brakes on this bike. Why fix it with aftermarket? So, I trundled into the local dealer to get parts, gave the parts guy the make/model info and he ordered them. The following weekend I fitted them, or tried. Damn pads just would not go on. After some swearing and the like, I gave up and trundled back to the dealer to explore why. The parts guy checked the numbers on the DCT fiche, then checked the numbers on the F fiche. The PN's appeared both places, but he then noticed a second PN on both fiches. Eventually, he figured out the two models had different PN's for their rear pads! Who knew? Funny, the fiches didn't really specify which belonged with which model. So, I ordered the other PN and figured between the two I'd have what I need. The parts showed up a few days later, and sure enough, they are different. I was surprised to see the pads are smaller on the F model. I also noticed the reason the F model won't fit into the DCT caliper - it has a small flange that won't allow it into the DCT caliper. Trust me, it is effective. Below is photographic evidence. The MGE-D01 (top) is the DCT model pad, the MFN-D11 is the F model. The screw driver tip points to the flange on the F model pad that denies use on the DCT. You can see the DCT pads are bigger. Apologies to those that already knew this, but it was news to me and the Honda parts guy. Wonder if it is the same on aftermarket pads?

Hi there, Looks like I need to replace my front brake pads on my '98 VFR. I was just going to buy replacement OEM pads from the local Honda dealer for $40 a set, but I read on some forums like this one: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/6-brake-pads-front/page-3 that recomended EBC pads, and this model in particular for the 5th gen: EBC Sintered FA261HH. Here they are on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/EBC-Brakes-FA261HH-Disc-Brake/dp/B006B28A94/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Honda%7C59&Model=VFR800%20Interceptor%7C20140&Year=1998%7C1998&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=motorcycle What do you guys recommend? From what I've read sintered are stronger and are better for performance riding like at the track, but can do more damage to your rotor. I'm all for stronger brakes to avoid rear ending a car and otherwise escaping dangerous situations, but if I'm mostly looking to tour, should I just stick with organics? Are sintered pads more likely to lead to a crash if I panic and tap the brake lever mid turn? Thanks guys!

Those of you paying attention to the RC79 Instant Suspension Tune thread will know that I changed out my stock tires a few weeks ago. I went strictly by the manual for pretty much everything, including the bizarre tighten / loosen / tighten procedure for the bits on the front forks. Everything except one thing... The manual says all the bolts holding the brake calipers on are supposed to be replaced with new bolts. Really? New bolts with every tire change and brake job? At $11+ apiece..? What's the liability, having not replaced them? Or, how many remove/install cycles can we get away with and why? What are the chances that a Honda dealer shop would ever even bother? FWIW I see the same bolts are also used on every CBR600RR since 2005.