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About ridervfr

  • Rank
    Local Racer

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  • Location
    Hollywood, FL
  • In My Garage:
    91 VFR 750F (granite blue/owned since 95) - 93 VFR 750F (owned since 2014) 04 EX 500 - 98 YSR 50

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34 profile views
  1. Maybe in some foreign currency you could get 80,000 something. Name of the bike is "First Wife" you being a sane smart person like you are, do you think I would ever, ever sell her? Let me answer for you, NOoO : )
  2. You could use one of those old oil cans with a spout/spring loaded handle and fill it with DOT4 or Honda brake fluid and go through the bleeder that way, I don't understand the concept of changing nipples on the bike your working on though, does it belong to Governor Cuomo? I think he has pierced ones. Oh, your a Briton - Sorry mate to drag you into our chit show political arena. They bleed that way in the aviation field too btw.
  3. I have the commercial MityVac bleeder and let me tell you its TITZ. Works on stubborn clutch systems as well as the lame/brain linked brakes on these/gold wing bikes. I have run into problems with bleeders. I used new OEM Honda bleeder and lost lever, had weeping around the thread holes on the clutch, & calipers! I used teflon tape with lousy results and am not a fan as when we used to use these on compressors its a big no-no. I ended up using a 3M product that was a white paste and thread sealant which we used at the train yard. Fast forward to a year ago, when everything was going great with my 91 VFR and low and behold, I had a dragging front caliper. I ended up overhauling the brakes and (a little foggy on how I ended up getting here.) I replaced the braided brake lines with HEL ones (bike had FastLine ones from 20 years ago) and I wanted to change them. Long story short, I mentioned this problem I was having with the weepage around the bleeder nipple threads, his recommendation was to switch to his stainless steel bleeders. I did and problem solved. You know, I was pulling my hair out a while back when I replaced the slave cylinder and had the same problem, I used my 3M solution which is ok, but not my style. Nice to know there is a solution to the problem.
  4. Morgan Carburetor synch tool. I had the Motion Pro one with fake mercury and it sucked out loud. Morgan tool, I can do the synchronization on my Gen3 bikes in five minutes with three associated flash lights and a ninety degree screwdriver from my Triumph days. Tool is great as it simplifies the entire process which is key.
  5. Nice bike, like the solo tail section, Looks familiar - I am thinking about a different colour for my wheels next tyre change, I think a light gold might look good. Peace - oh, those are my two, black one has 81,000 miles almost a one owner, white one is a 93 I got 6 years ago and built up from a rolling wreck.
  6. I had that happen once on a 636 Kawasaki back in the day, I was using a Sear torque wrench at the time. I have three Snap On torque wrenches now, if I was working on your bike, I would not reach for any of them. A T-handle with a 10MM six point socket on the end would be all I need. Its too risky and not necessary to use a torque wrench on these small fasteners, cam caps, bolts you mentioned etc. If your concerned you could get new ones from Honda, I trust my feel on these things, flash to my installing a newly machined head on my Kawasaki, do I use a torque wrench? Yep, you better believe it, it has a torque sequence and three stages of tightening (I think) I re-torqued the head bolts upon the first valve adjustment. That is where torque is critical. You live and learn - you wont make that mistake again right? Peace
  7. Pretty kewel. First post as I just joined. I remember back in 90 I saw one on the street in NYC, have seen a few on the track in the past (not alot of them floating around really.) Used to see a nice RC45 at a dealership in NJ - now that same bike is beyond a red velvet rope (back in the day they wanted 27,000 for that 45 and that was back in late 90's. Peace
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