BusyLittleShop

Busy Little Shop is the North American annex of HRC...

Manufactures don't make their own Rec/Reg units but a so called "Yamaha Rectifier" worked better than my so called "Honda Rectifier" to establish a constant 14.2 volts no matter the RPMs... I went through 2 stock RC45 R/Rs at $227 each and 1 $300 stator and still I suffered the problem of low volts to the point where the engine would hesitate and quit... only after I give up on Honda's stuff and tried Yamaha's stuff did I have the joy of finishing my ride... There's not a lot of extra space on the RC45 for extra stuff... I had to mill off 1/2 inch off the fins and then design and machine a custom aluminum hanger... but now I show a constant 13.7 to 14.2 volts no matter the RPMS... I've completed this mod for other RC45 owners suffering from charging and running problems... 2003 to 2006 Yamaha R1 Rec/Reg

Even though an 90º V4 sports perfect primary and second balances they still vibrate to some degree and the one thing to eliminate if you feel more vibrations or hear an odd rattle is a loose exhaust system because it will amplify any of those vibrations to an annoying level... tap the pipes with the palm of your hand to test if any bolts points or connections are loose... also check the foot pegs bolts and anything bolted to the foot pegs...

Mercy!!! I'm relieved you're not hurt... jettisoning your hub at any speed is dangerous... proper torque and stake will limit this to a one time affair... This also happened to VFR4Lee in 2016...

No CNC... just a manual Lathe and Mill at the Busy Little Shop to machine my magnesium triple clamps...

Negative... Mr.Honda's V4s are evolutionary not revolutionary...

You know me Patrick... I'm just a dumb guy with a Lathe and Mill...

Mercy Patrick... flow equals more separation not pressure... quote Dr. Haas "It is time to introduce the concept of lubrication. Most believe that pressure = lubrication. This is false. Flow = lubrication. If pressure was the thing that somehow lubricated your engine then we would all be using 90 weight oil. Lubrication is used to separate moving parts, to keep them from touching. There is a one to one relationship between flow and separation. If you double the flow you will double the separation pressure in a bearing. The pressure at the bearing entrance is irrelevant." "In fact the relationship between pressure and flow is in opposition. If you change your oil to a thicker formula the pressure will go up. It goes up because the resistance to flow is greater and in fact the flow must go down in order for the pressure to go up. They are inversely related. Conversely if you choose a thinner oil then the pressure will go down. This can only occur if the flow has increased." Quote Rat540 "Plain bearings, such as rod and main bearings are lubricated by oil flow, not by oil pressure. Oil pressure is NOT what keeps these parts separated. Oil pressure serves only to supply the oil to this interface. The parts are kept apart by the in compressible hydrodynamic liquid oil wedge that is formed as the liquid oil is pulled in between the spinning parts. As long as sufficient oil is supplied, no wear can occur. In addition to this, the flow of oil through the bearings is what cools them."

True... but now the freer flowing and cooler running 30 grade oil is recommended to be used in all conditions... You can bet that Honda's engineers have tested it to make sure it will meet and exceed your mileage expectations... Feel free to release those ponies...

Mercy Danno!!! You can get that last 2-3hp by Honda's recommended oil or equivalent... you're not risking your engine by running a freer flowing 30 grade... Honda's engineers have tested it to make sure it will meet and exceed your mileage expectations...

No maybes about it... Blackstone's 35 years worth of racing and street motorcycle oil analysis shows no significant differences in WEAR between the grades... in other words either our 50 grade or a 30 grade will meet and exceed our mileage expectations... what is significant between 50 & 30 grades is less HP and higher Temps from unwanted oil drag... The Importance of Viscosity? Quote Blackstone Labs The viscosity, or thickness of the oil, is not nearly as important as many people think. Oil retains its nature no matter what thickness it is.Think about this: automakers are continually recommending lighter multi-grade oil in new engines. The reason is increased efficiency. It takes power to pump oil through an engine, and the lighter the oil, the less power required to pump it. The oil’s ability to act like a solid and protect parts is not related to its thickness. If that doesn’t sound quite right, consider this: The gears in a heavy duty Allison automatic transmission are doing the same work as the same machine equipped with an Eaton manual transmission. Due to the hydraulics of the automatic, it runs on a 10W automatic transmission oil.But the manual transmission uses a very thick (sometimes up to 90W)gear lube oil. The gears of both types of transmissions will have a similar life span. We don’t find any significant differences in wear, regardless of oil thickness.

A couple of ponies can also be freed with no loss in mileage expectations by running a 30 grade synthetic oil ...

THE CHOICE The choice is yours but I'd start plugging because there is mounting evidence that plugged tires work and are safe... I have yet to note anyone armed with first hand knowledge to the contrary... REPAIRS Minor tire repair is limited to an area of three quarters of the normal section width. The maximum diameter of penetration damage and/or cracking at the base of the injury should be no greater than 3mm. The repair patches must not overlap. For permanent repair,it is only recommended that small punctures restricted to the tread area be repaired, using a rope type plug. The current condition of a tire is important in determining whether a tire is suitable for repair. Some damage limits include: if the tire has reached its minimum tread depth as indicated by the TWI (tire wear indicator); ply separation, separation of inner liner and or cutting of ply cords by penetrating object; brittle or cracked rubber caused by exhaust heat; broken or bent bead wire, damaged bead zone; damage caused by under-inflation; softening or swelling of rubber due to oil or chemical attack; punctures too close together; damage or previous repair of a puncture outside of area specified for suitable repair. MY EXPERIENCES My screwed Rennsport... boo hoo... My plugged Rennsport that covered 2K miles and not in moderation either... it's seen over a 140 mph more than once... Inside the Rennsport for proof that the rope type plugs stay intact whereas my mushroom type plug started to come unstuck... You can see by the diagram that Safety Seal plugs that are installed properly establish an mushroom shape inside the carcass that holds fast under pressure... you'd have more luck pushing the plug inside carcass than you'll ever have it pop out under pressure... Self Vulcanizing Ropes are convenient to buy and convenient to install for the Do-It-Yourself owner unable to locate a shop to assume the liability of a inside Combi Plug for such little profit... 3 Steps on the rode again Self Vulcanizing Ropes... Rope1) Ream hole with tool provided in the kit found at any parts store Rope2) Insert rope with tool provided in the kit and trim excess Rope3) Inflate tire to proper PSI I don't recommend the inside Combi / mushroom type plugs because I discovered that the inside patch is solely dependent on a bond between a plug company's material and the tire manufacture's rubber compound... that's a crap shoot the two chemical compounds are compatible enough to hold a bond when the rubber is stationary and at room temperature... but tires are elastic bodies designed to flex from completely round to completely flat at every rotation... every rotation builds heat that works against that bond... every rotation flexes that mushroom patch from round to flat that works against that bond.... so we have heat coupled with flex working against the two competing chemical bonds from being as consistence as a self vulcanizing rope plug installed from the outside.. 7 difficult steps for a due-it-yourself or for a shop to install an inside Combi Plug whereas the Self Vulcanizing Ropes are convenient to buy and convenient to install for the Do-It-Yourself owner unable to locate a shop to assume the liability of a inside Combi Plug for such little profit...

We should all be concerned because mechanics and manufactures agree... roughly 60% of total engine wear occurs during cold start up conditions before oil can circulate through the engine... best to turn the engine over waiting on the light before combustion... Liquimoly Flow Test... 5w30 flows quicker than 10w40 or 15w40... so when choosing grades its best to pick a 5w30 over a 10w40...

Riders have been working on "sit in-out rigger motorcycles" since 1910... nothing new there... MonoTracer Video Historical view of the Monotracer... 1910 first Monotracer 1950 NSU Flying Hammock 2009 MonoTracer Peraves MonoTracer

Check this stand out... https://youtu.be/YF_sNujjYX4

Hiya Mo I did stop and drain Mr.RC45 hot but will not any more after reading the article... I will long time drain the pan room temp...

I agree... short time you're draining the whole engine... long time you're draining the pan... you get more of the old oil out with just draining the pan because it takes time for the oil to migrate under the force of gravity out of the whole engine and into the pan...

Negative... there is no objective reason to follow this advice...

Water will rust... stuff will cling... Dump a about 1/2 quart of gas inside the tank and add 20 or 30 good size ball bearing... seal if off and vigorously agitate... flush with gas and repeat until clean... Remove bearings with a stick magnet...

Motorcycle troubleshooting is a form of problem solving... It is a logical search for the source of a problem so that it can be solved... it ain't about jumping to conclusions... always eliminate the battery first... because you find that 90% of the time it proves to be the weakest link of your bike... and so much depends on correct voltage that it's pays to have your battery tended to a charger at all times... Start with the battery for it's the weakest link in the whole system... To determine the condition of an Maintenance Free battery give it a refreshing charge... wait 30 minutes... measure terminal voltage... 12.8 or higher is a good battery... 12.0 to 12.8 is a insufficient charge... recharge... 12.0 or lower... battery unserviceable...

You're welcome... Looking for options??? try Busy Little Shop's 3 step method of bike cleaning: 1) At the end of day soak a soft wash cloth in HOT water and remove bugs and road grime... repeat as necessary and keep the rag HOT... 2) Apply Meguiars detailer mist to a soft rag and then to fairings and gas tank and buff to a shine... 3) Apply a little gasoline to a soft rag and degrease chain and magnesium wheels... Meguiars wheels to a nice luster... After 20 years and 62,000 miles of perverted highway I've never once hit Mr.RC45 with a garden hose... to me it's bike abuse because it promotes corrosion in all the little nooks and crannies...

You're welcome...

10% lost can be a worn chain or running grade 50 oil... you should look to changing sprockets and chain every 8k to 10K miles and run synthetic 30 grade because oil drag is real... Blackstone's 35 years worth of racing and street motorcycle oil analysis shows no significant differences in WEAR between the grades... in other words either your 50 grade or a 30 grade will meet and exceed your racing expectations... what is significant between 50 & 30 grades is HP and Temps... the amount of unwanted oil drag which will the 2 to 3 lost of HP and the increase in Temp

Barbaric hammer blows would not be needed if owners would stop hitting their prize with a garden hose... it's tantamount to bike abuse...