Grum

Hi Skids. Excellent advice already there for you. Just to add one more for a snippet of info. Any damage to the Molybdenum butterfly seal coating, will cause additional bypass air resulting in high uncontrollable idle. Bottom line is the main cause of Hi Idle is either the Wax Unit (or blocked coolant flow through it as mentioned), additional air into the throttle bodies (vaccumm hoses, throttle body mounting boots) or perhaps a dud TPS or ECT signal. Assume you don't have any Fi Flashing Codes. Terry raises a good key point here, if your idle very slowly returns to normal just relying on engine temperature heat soaking the WU then that is a good sign coolant flow through WU could be restricted or blocked, this could be within the WU itself or the hoses. Cheers.

Assuming the Starter Relay wiring is similar to the VFR. Remove the Red Starter Relay electrical connector and undo some of the insulation tape. Check for a Red wire to Yellow/red wire short. Refer attached picture. Take a look at the Starter Circuit wiring diagram attached, you'll see if this short happens your Starter Relay Coil will energize permanently until you either disconnect the Battery or remove Main Fuse A 30amp, housed in the Starter Relay. Once you have sorted I would Definetly replace the Starter Relay just on spec as it would have taken a beating, I hope the Starter Motor has survived the ordeal.!!

Mate. Don't forget that beneath the nice glossy paintwork and fairings, it's just another 6gen, nothing special or different behind it's fancy dress. I had the same feelings about my own RWB, a lovely bike, but the 8gen has blown all those cares away. Pictured (Dec 2007) - My buddy and his sexy 2006 Black. I fiited some nice Staintune exhausts to both bikes, they look and sound great. The white wheels, especially on your 8gen, look great. Don't regret it, move on. Seriously, the 8gen is a far superior bike, IMO. Still think a nice aftermarket exhaust will further add to your bikes good looks and of course that delightful 90deg V4 sound. Cheers.

Getting your warm engine idle back to 1200rpm will make a big difference. I guess I wouldn't trust any CHP service dept. used to working on Harley Electra Glides to work on a VFR! Change your clutch technique....From a stationary position going from neutral to in gear with some vague partial pull in of the clutch is a BAD technique!!! If you use all fingers on the clutch and pull it in fully this is the best option. You will minimize the chance of a forward jolt when going from neutral to in gear, minimize clutch drag and clutch wear as you were probably within the friction zone, lessen any load on the engine possibly keeping it cooler while stationary, and the launch assit function should work well and consistently from the fully pulled in position. However once on the move can revert to any clutch method you like! Be wary, some aftemarket levers don't trigger the clutch switch properly and have caused issues. I trust you have NO problems with In Gear engine starting Sidestand Up. This is another indication that the clutch switch is working......or not. Personally I have no issues with the launch assit function, it's bearly noticeable and works well. I've not seen or heard a bad report about it, mostly it's owners just observing that it's there and curious about the rpm increase on clutch release in gear.

Yep you've got yourself a super reliable vfr a joy to ride. What's the history, how many miles/k's ? And as Presson states, fire away with any questions, we are all here to help. Good luck with the purchase. And welcome 8gen owner.

Firstly, make sure your warm engine idle is set to 1200rpm. The idle speed adjustment knob is just forward and above the clutch slave cylinder. And yes, there is the launch assit function that increases rpm with clutch release when in gear. With a warm engine this is approximately 250rpm, with a cold engine it can be higher. Under normal conditions the function should be almost unnoticeable. Might also be worth confirming the clutch switch operation (both electrically and mechanically) you need to be sure that with clutch pulled in you hear the switch click well before the handlebar. Just checked my 8gen and this happens at around 60% of lever travel, clutch lever setting at 4. Perhaps it's your clutch technique of not pulling the clutch lever in far enough to activate the clutch switch? For a few good reasons, clutch should be fully pulled in from a stationary start!

Your last statement sounds like it's returned to normal ops. The ABS system is critical on good battery voltage, so just check the state of your battery and clean tight battery terminals, any doubts about the battery, have it load checked. Have you downloaded the Service Manual? If not you can download it from this forum. Section 16 ABS tells you all about it. Like the ECM the ABS has its own diagnostic error codes. Good luck hope this helps.

Followed Philois1984's idea and had the same job done by Officeworks, really happy with the results especially for a garage pic. Not far off 100,000k's of faultless smile inducing riding with the 8gen, definitely the best of the four VFR's I've owned, by a long shot. Thanks again to VFR80025th and Terry for the poster arrangement. Cheers All.

My Bad .....Sorry Mohawk misread left and right as looking at picture and drawing relative to the wax unit. Like your idea of reverting to a cable choke for a 5gen, Less clutter under the TB's and one thing less to give you problems.

Hi Mohawk. I think the hose positions are opposite to what you've described. Looking at the drawing and the OP's picture, both are oriented the same. So looking at the left or forward hose connection at the wax unit the drawing shows that going to the T/Stat housing (outflow). The right or rear hose (inflow) goes to the "left side V of the engine". Not sure whether the flow direction through the wax unit is critical, but best to have flow per the drawing I guess.

Yikes Dutchy, what is all that white stuff??

Many Thanks VFR80025th and Terry. A large print in the garage is going to look great. Picture size of the file looks like it will match nicely to A2 format = 594mm X 420mm Cheers.

Kon'nichiwa ogenkidesuka Phil. Excellent stay stay stay!!!. Tell them you'll take it for a ride to give it some good exercise, explain that this would be extremely beneficial for the bike.

Agree, good points you raise Terry. Cheers.

Agree with bmart. Is it really worth the effort going with a non genuine item for maybe a once in a lifetime replacement? Also considering its a pain in the arse job, why not be confident in knowing you've fitted exactly the right one and only needing to do the job Once? Simply drilling bypass holes in a non genuine T/Stat doesn't sound like a good plan just to save a couple of bucks. Both 5th AND 6gens use the same T/Stat P/No. 19300-MBG-003 listed as $43.45 on Partzilla. Should be plenty of stock around. Love a 5th gen in Yellow - Looks a gem.

Magic looking 5th gen Terry. Very Nice shot. Cheers

Try bench testing the Relays. Apply 12v to the center pin, Ground/Negative to the right pin. Do you hear the relay click? Does 12v appear on the left pin? I'm not familiar with the internal triggering of the coil and only assuming that a non pulsed ground might also operate the relay, worth a try. Also suspicious of the relay type, configuration and quality you may have purchased. 1993 OEM part is - RELAY, FUEL CUT (SHINDENGEN) 36100-MN4-008 Interesting Info..... for a 97 model someone posted this pin to wire configuration..... -Top/ left to right - Bl, R/Y, Bl/Bu. Yet according to Partzilla 1993 and 1997 fuel cut relays are the same part number!! Sorry, I don't own a 93 or 97 to physically check for you. Confusing!!! You may need to experiment with the wire to pin config with your bench testing of the relays!

Yep, agree with the Captain. See Attached pic shows it. For Info - Black/Blue = 12v power to Fuel Pump Black = 12v input. Red/Yellow = ICM engine run signal to energise relay. #4 Ignition Coil Ground pulses.

Mileage is stored in non volatile memory which is why you can remove the battery and later replace it and Not lose that data. Yes, if you move the LCD to another cluster your odometer reading should be kept. Looking at the bad state of your cluster corrosion wise. A replacement cluster, if you can find one, might be a good option. And its Grum not Chum!

Hi Pete. And Merry Christmas to you. Phew...I hope you didn't have to blow all your redundancy payments on that service? Good to hear the bike is running great. Hope your new job goes well, good luck. Cheers.

You won't be needing a "shock spanner" 8gen has hand adjustable rear preload. Might be handy for a 6gen owner!

The 8gen. has the best and most reliable electrics of any VFR. Numerous previous gen electrical gremlins have been overcome. My voltmeter tells me the charging system produces a rock solid 14.5v at the battery no matter the rpm or selected load eg. hi beam or heated grips etc. Also, if your 8gen VFR, be it hot or cold doesn't start virtually quicker than you can release the Starter Button then something isn't right....they are that good.

Hi Billy. Glad you got the all important chain adjusting C spanner. Chain needs replacing! Sounds a little early at 23,000k's but unless the chain was neglected, tension and lubrication wise, then save your money, OEM sprockets should be fine for at least another chain. I've only ever used either RK, EK or D.I.D. high quality Japanese chains and averaged well over 30,000k's per chain, with the four VFR's I've had. My current 8gen has done over 94,000k's, regularly lube, clean and check the chain tension, I'm still running the OEM rear sprocket and has no visible sign of wear, however, I do have a new rear one to fit come the next chain replacement. (somewhere around 110,000k's !) Throwing away sprockets with every chain replacement is not always necessary and will depend on a number of factors! Inspect them before binning them. Where I live we don't add salt to the roads in winter, that probably also helps. And yes with chains and sprockets YMMV. Oh Yes - The chain size you need for an 8gen is a 525 with 110 links. My previous two chains were 124 links that I cut back to 110 (Inclusive of the Master Link). Standard steel sprockets are 16 and 43 tooth.

Have you checked sub Fuse A 10amp Clock fuse? Clean up and make sure the 6 LCD mounting screws are making good contact to the copper track. Make sure the electrical plugs are clean and making good contact, a smear of Ox-Gard on connector contacts will help. Follow the Red/Green wire 12v clock power with a meter making sure you measure the 12v at the Blue Connector then follow the track to the top right screw of the LCD, check for 12v at this point, check all the six copper tracks for the LCD. After having a good look at a clean instrument panel picture I have, that Purple Wire link is NOT correct. Its jumpering 12v power of the Brown/Blue wire 12v from fuse G, to the 12v Battery Clock Power of the LCD Red/Green wire from fuse A. Have a close look in the area circled in red, its very suspect as being open circuit, thus the reason possibly for wrongly linking another power source using the Purple Wire link! Download this excellent colour wiring diagram of your bike it will help you with wire colour codes mentioned and the Instrument Panel wiring etc. Bottom line is to Firstly - Remove the Purple Wire link. Secondly - Repair the suspected open circuit track highlighted and, confirm with a voltmeter that you now have 12v via the Red/Green wire with Ignition Off at the top right LCD mounting screw which is where the clock 12v battery power goes to. See the second picture for what your repair might need to look like, the small red circles show open circuit corroded copper tracks that the Red wire bypasses.