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Not sure if this has been posted on VFRD but long time VFR specialty product company Tyga Performance is now selling full RC30 conversion kits to suit 4th Gen VFR750. All bodywork, subframes, infill panels, exhaust system... the works. Even a replacement fuel tank. They look incredible and are literally plug and play. Bodywork Set 1, GRP, Painted RC30, RC36-2 RC30 Style, Street | TYGA-Performance The interest in this kit on the Facebook "RC/RVF Replica Group" is immense and a lot of bikes are going to be converted, so now's the time to grab a 4th Gen. Especially a cosmetically challenged one.

I know it made the rounds on the FB group. Like you, I figure it will be tough to find a 4th gen starting about now. May be a good idea to hang on to an unmolested one even.

I am the muttonhead in this (what should be) finale in the VFR saga. Looking at shock length and not bike ride height caused me many hours of headaches. Even I can't believe it. The next time that each shock is out I will measure to compare. For now, they both stay bolted in and as they are. Yellow VFR00 hot sag numbers came in perfect after some adjusting. Front is 24/34 and rear is 10/30. This is after a few changes to get rear ride height very close to VFR98, which I love. The yellow bike front forks are a touch (1.5mm) higher in the triples (front of bike is lower) and the rear is a touch higher (w/in 1.5mm) measured up from the axle...but close enough for a lackey. Simply everything feels better with the geometry changed. Braking. Seating. Pressure on arms. Mid corner direction changes. Everything. Patience paid off. I was ready to light it on fire...like I am with the ABS FJ1200 wheels/brakes that cost the earth. I rode both VFRs back to back today to verify/set hot sag. While they feel different because the components are different, they are both pretty excellent. Absolutely adequate for any kind of riding. I planned to be zippy in the mountains tomorrow, but all 7 buddies bailed, so I'll likely just roll around the lakes here, which is a 4-5 hour ride.

Got some on order, will post when fitted.

This is standard procedure and how I learned it. However, I cannot convince my kids to do it this way. Good old times!

I did wonder if a degree of colour blindness might be at play here. That would certainly put a different colour on it; if you'll excuse the pun. Good luck 🤞

Electrical fault finding can be very frustrating particularly if ( like me) one is not that experienced at it. That's why many of us use the experts on this site. However, it is really important to follow the steps of advice exactly and report back findings on those steps as requested. That's also the better way to learn because the approach has logical structure. Missing out bits, giving half answers or introducing new stuff makes having the conversation frustrating or downright infuriating. We're all human and everyone offering help on here is genuinely interested in getting a fellow biker back on the road. But being frustrated by half answers will test anyone's patience eventually. I do hope you get this sorted. Cheers!

8. So you're saying the Green/Blue from the ECT somwhere changes to a Blue/Gray at the Instrument Panel? AND that doesn't appear on the Pre or Post 99 Drawiings! AND if you look closely, unfortunately the colored drawing shows a Gray/Blue wire........That is incorrectly colored and is actually a Gray/Black (Gr/Bl) wire and goes to the Fuel Sender. However, with BOTH drawings there is NO reference to a Blue/Gray (Bu/Gr) wire amongst the 17 Instrument Panel wires? The ONLY two Blue (main wire color) wires at the Instrument Panel are a Blue/Red = Oil Pressure Light, and, Blue/Black = Hi Beam indicator Light. I don't have a 5th gen, never have, so I can only go by relevant drawings be they Right or Wrong!! So it's impossible for me to verify this Blue/Gray wire you talk of. 9. Go back and check I added the number 9 to that paragraph this morning to draw attention to it. "you sound very condescending no reason for that". Short memory mate, and yes I do have reasons. And still no mention that you have replaced the ECT. I hope you fitted a genuine OEM and not some Chinese cheapy! However, you've got tons of info provided which should hopefully resolve your issue, you just need to use it, along with the Service Manual and wiring diagram. Info - Wire coding and drawings.. Eg A Bu/Gr - Blue is the Main wire colour, Gray is its stripe being the trace. No trace = a solid color wire. See attached wire table. AND - I do mean it, Good Luck and hope you have it resolved soon.

And to avoid repeating myself yet again...... Refer Items 6,8 and 9 above! Info - Wire and trace colour at the ECT may have faded due to heat cycles.

Hi Presson. Assuming his wiring loom hasn't been swapped out, his version is the After 99 model having O2 sensors which are wired into the Gray connector. However the ECT sensor wire colors remain the same between the two versions. Far easier working with the earlier nice Hi Rez colorized drawing for 99% of fault finding, compared to the correct but Black and White after 1999 version. See attached, sorry no color version available. Gray connector is on the Right.

Today season opened The Bandit was a positive surprise, ok the aftermarket can a bit louder to my taste but that's easy to fix. Rides good, engine more flexible than I had believe, no sky rocket but still fun. Well it's still ice on local lakes And you had to take it easy as roads partly covered whit light gravel from winter that has not been taken from the road yet Also a add to garage today, 2 wheels as electric engine that assist as you pedal A Yamaha moro07 30th anniversary model.

ECT has two sensors in one. The ECM has no intel of the coolant temp to Instrument Panel sensor, so No Fault Code for it. Do you have three wires at the ECT. And one of them Green/Blue? This wire should definitely be at the Blue 10P connector for the Instrument Panel. If its not, something is horribly wrong or strangely modified!