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I rode a 1280 KTM in Austin a few years back at the demo ride KTM tent. I really loved the awesome motor and supple suspension. It was way way way out of my price range. So I forgot all about it. Reverse course a couple of weeks ago I was bored at work on my break, scrolling thru cycle trader on my phone, just a bunch of boring metric cruisers and squid owned bikes. I decided to look at my local dealership online inventory. Oh snap they had a 990 Super Duke with 10k miles on it, and 5300 dollars. Just so happens I had the cash, fast forward. Turns out a squid owned it previously. Removed the mirrors, sprocket cover, hugger. Dropped it. But in decent shape. Price was right, made the dealer fix some stuff. But now I got 3 bikes in my tiny garage.

Well, went and saw it today, and I'm buying it. 2014 Deluxe with 4500 miles. Coffman Exhaust Helibar risers Puig Screen Volt Meter w/phone charger Phone holder OEM top box PAIR/Airbox mod Frame Sliders New Michelin Road 5s I'll put the cash together early next week and go scoop it up. I'm back in the family again, folks... @SEBSPEED I suppose we'll be in touch soon. 🙂

Hello! New forum member, first post! Have almost completed the building of a budget OKI 91-93 replica. 94 VFR+RC45 farings. Have a slip-on and is also planning to run just the connection pipe for sound of it :). Would like to remove airbox lid, but have heard that calls for major re-set of needles and jets. Searched but did not find any thread about it? And some pitcures to make it a bit more interesting! Looking fwd to hear the visdom from the croud! BR /Per from Sweden.

You could do the 'ol "HRC" rear brake fluid reservoir, i.e., short piece of Tygon tubing with a little cap on it. All of the parts can be ordered from Honda, but the Tygon tubing is cheaper elsewhere. Ciao, JZH

I've purchased a couple sets of these when I found them on sale for some future projects. NS125R Mirror - ebay They are obviously not a replica, but they are one of the few mirrors that has the correct type mount for a VFR. They are also available in Red, White and Blue.

Eh idk about wearing out tires fast, but if this type of TC is saving you in anything other than winter conditions, then at least we ride VERY differently haha. In my experience this type of TC is simply dangerous. On track if you are hard on the gas on corner exit and end up with the rear spinning up a little (its fine if you know what you are doing) this TC will apruptly cut ALL the power which can easily either: best case just throw you off your line and be very uncomfortable and obviously ruin your lap, or worst case make your rear slide out and send you sliding... I'v also been on public roads and have hit something uneven whilst being hard on the gas, which caused a small spin, which the TC fixed by again cutting power and just being generally sucky 😄. (This is all from my 800F, but it was pretty clear the 2015 1200F i rode had the exact same TC system). This type of TC is only suitable for slow road riding where it might be slippery, i.e winter basically, rain does not warrent this type of murderous TC haha. IF i could have it, i would. And i would just turn it off unless i was out riding in very cold conditions.

Classified. I could tell you, but then of course I'd have to kill you . . .

Congrats!

And you know about that from past experience. Right?

Just to wrap this specific question up, the ignition key can be completely taken apart, cleaned up, and re-assembled. It works like a champ after cleaning up all of the contacts inside with isopropyl alcohol...did not need to replace the cable after all. Will probably cancel my incoming order for the 2004+ switch and cable. It's a little bit of a pain to get at the Torx T40 bolts at the bottom to get it out, but I was able to do it without removing the triple clamp, handlebars, etc. I used a long-ish 3/8 inch ratchet with a pivoting head so I could angle the handle up out of the body work, and slowly got it out. There are three security-keyed Torx screws holding the actual switch to the tumbler. Once those are out and you have the switch and cable free of the tumbler, it's pretty easy to pry the plastic base out of the housing along with all of the switch internals. Clean it up, pop it all back together, and re-install.

Tinkering with the airbox will yield no performance (hp or torque) improvements to the engine's output and as mentioned above can result in flat spots and other undesirable rideability issues. The airbox is tuned to the engine to give it the optimum air / fuel mix for any given rpm / load. The thread below has a great explanation of the airbox's purpose and function (you may have to scroll up to see BusyLittleShop's explanation). Even though you're working with carbs vs FI, the principles of airflow volume and speed remain the same. Honda got all the performance out of the engine that it can give by tuning the airbox - best practice is leave it factory stock. If there were gains to be had, Honda would not have left that on the table. If desired, removing the PAIR system from it will shed a few pounds and won't affect performance or smoothness of delivery. https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/97395-full-exhaust/&tab=comments#comment-1122398