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I rode a 1280 KTM in Austin a few years back at the demo ride KTM tent. I really loved the awesome motor and supple suspension. It was way way way out of my price range. So I forgot all about it. Reverse course a couple of weeks ago I was bored at work on my break, scrolling thru cycle trader on my phone, just a bunch of boring metric cruisers and squid owned bikes. I decided to look at my local dealership online inventory. Oh snap they had a 990 Super Duke with 10k miles on it, and 5300 dollars. Just so happens I had the cash, fast forward. Turns out a squid owned it previously. R

Well, went and saw it today, and I'm buying it. 2014 Deluxe with 4500 miles. Coffman Exhaust Helibar risers Puig Screen Volt Meter w/phone charger Phone holder OEM top box PAIR/Airbox mod Frame Sliders New Michelin Road 5s I'll put the cash together early next week and go scoop it up. I'm back in the family again, folks... @SEBSPEED I suppose we'll be in touch soon. 🙂

Hello! New forum member, first post! Have almost completed the building of a budget OKI 91-93 replica. 94 VFR+RC45 farings. Have a slip-on and is also planning to run just the connection pipe for sound of it :). Would like to remove airbox lid, but have heard that calls for major re-set of needles and jets. Searched but did not find any thread about it? And some pitcures to make it a bit more interesting! Looking fwd to hear the visdom from the croud! BR /Per from Sweden.

You could do the 'ol "HRC" rear brake fluid reservoir, i.e., short piece of Tygon tubing with a little cap on it. All of the parts can be ordered from Honda, but the Tygon tubing is cheaper elsewhere. Ciao, JZH

I've purchased a couple sets of these when I found them on sale for some future projects. NS125R Mirror - ebay They are obviously not a replica, but they are one of the few mirrors that has the correct type mount for a VFR. They are also available in Red, White and Blue.

Eh idk about wearing out tires fast, but if this type of TC is saving you in anything other than winter conditions, then at least we ride VERY differently haha. In my experience this type of TC is simply dangerous. On track if you are hard on the gas on corner exit and end up with the rear spinning up a little (its fine if you know what you are doing) this TC will apruptly cut ALL the power which can easily either: best case just throw you off your line and be very uncomfortable and obviously ruin your lap, or worst case make your rear slide out and send you sliding... I'v also been on

Classified. I could tell you, but then of course I'd have to kill you . . .

Congrats!

And you know about that from past experience. Right?

Just to wrap this specific question up, the ignition key can be completely taken apart, cleaned up, and re-assembled. It works like a champ after cleaning up all of the contacts inside with isopropyl alcohol...did not need to replace the cable after all. Will probably cancel my incoming order for the 2004+ switch and cable. It's a little bit of a pain to get at the Torx T40 bolts at the bottom to get it out, but I was able to do it without removing the triple clamp, handlebars, etc. I used a long-ish 3/8 inch ratchet with a pivoting head so I could angle the handle up out of the

Tinkering with the airbox will yield no performance (hp or torque) improvements to the engine's output and as mentioned above can result in flat spots and other undesirable rideability issues. The airbox is tuned to the engine to give it the optimum air / fuel mix for any given rpm / load. The thread below has a great explanation of the airbox's purpose and function (you may have to scroll up to see BusyLittleShop's explanation). Even though you're working with carbs vs FI, the principles of airflow volume and speed remain the same. Honda got all the performance out of the engine that it