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Has anybody disconnected the electrical connections at the ecu, i was going to disconnect them for inspection and cleaning, but im not sure at what point they disconnect, some very careful prying and pulling hasnt worked, im trying to be very careful here. Where are the release clips?  any help would be appreciated.  bog

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Never unplugged them, but provided you are pulling on the Gray or Black plastic of the two connectors you shouldn't cause any problems. The fact they are both 26 pin and socket plugs there will be a fair amount of retention to overcome. Make sure there are no obvious press clips on the top or bottom of the plugs, then just pull rearwards at the same plane/angle of the plug. The Service Manual doesn't appear to state any specific method to removing the ECM plugs.

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I've done it.  Just take it easy.  I don't recall the orientation of the tabs specifically on that connector,  but they are usually on the side.  If you can't find them use a magnifier or take a photo with your phone and enlarge it for a closer look.  A firm grip on the tabs  with a gentle rocking motion will usually get them apart.  I'd avoid prying with a tool if possible. 

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ok, thanks guys. There are two small release clips on the bottom of both connectors, also there is a larger clip at the top of both connectors, about 1 inch in width. I have been spending the winter performing maintenance and electrical mods, im trying to be careful with these connectors, it would help if i knew at what point they come apart, will continue to play with it. my haynes manual simply says to disconnect, no details whatsoever.  bog

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Nothing to it, except you are dealing with 17 years old plastic micropin connection that was most likely never appart. I am certain you can already appreciate amount of force you used to pull. Hope you have good reason to take them appart... 😉

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Like with metal bolted connections, some lube would help. Use some silicone-spray between plastic connectors. Be extremely careful not to pull on any wires. That can dislodge metal terminals inside and cause connection issues when re-assembling.

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Honda no doubt only sells complete wiring harnesses, but the individual connectors and terminals are available from places like Eastern Beaver or Cycle Terminal--but it's usually better if you don't break them in the first place!  There's usually a locking tab on the top (or bottom), and a bit of wiggling should do it.  

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

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I had a heck of a time unplugging my ECU....... took my time, had to resort to some prying.... carefully so not to wreck the plastic.  Had to pry a bit on one side to keep the latch disengaged, then disengage and pry a bit on the other side.  Three hands would help, lol.  Take your time..... once apart, the next time isn't as bad.  They are a snug fit.  Don't think you can get OEM harness connectors for the ECU, shouldn't need to.

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I have no issues repairing harness down to pin replacement for sensors or actuators, I just recently restored Suzuki big bore outboard for example that uses Mikuni fuel injection,  but ECU connectors, nah... line gets drawn there.

 

 

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Which brings up question of WHY? There's no maintenance required for connectors that have been together for decades. They're sealed and there's no corrosion issues with terminals. Why?

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I bought a 1990 Honda ST1100 that had been standing in an open shed for 10 years. The carbs and fuel system were predictably crappy, but the thing that took me longest to hunt down was a low voltage reaching the ECU which caused a misfire over 4k rpm. Turned out to be corrosion in the red connector that feeds power to/from the handlebars. Personally I think unplugging, cleaning, greasing and re-plugging these connectors is good periodic maintenance. 

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Not sure if we are talking about the same thing. Once modern ECU connector get unplugged there is tight forrest of tiny male pins that can hardy be cleaned. Female terminals are not visible or accessible. I would go there to diagnose malfunction as guided by shop manual troubleshooting guide and diagnostic codes, at least there was a problem in the first place, but routine maintenance?

 

Modern ECU usually cost more than 1k and harness 500 plus...

 

 

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Well, you do need to remove the connectors to use one of these:

spacer.png

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

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42 minutes ago, JZH said:

Well, you do need to remove the connectors to use one of these:

spacer.png

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

 

Ooo... I haven’t see vbob for some time. Who has money for that, I would rather pierce if I have to. But you are missing the point, I am not opposed to doing diagnostic or repairs but to messing with it for no good reason.

 

 

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10 hours ago, Magneto said:

 

How do you call it in  Blighty then?

 If I knew what it was I could tell you .

Is it a diagnostic tool ?

I didn't know if VBOB is a slang word for the item or a manufacturer name

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17 minutes ago, DaveC said:

 If I knew what it was I could tell you .

Is it a diagnostic tool ?

I didn't know if VBOB is a slang word for the item or a manufacturer name

Commonly called a harness break out test box. Allows for easy checking of continuity, voltage/grounds and signals or even signal injection for every pin of the ECM. Handy diagnostic tool for the professional repairer.

 

VBOB = ?? I'll have a guess at Voltage Break Out Box!!

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They pop up on eBay from time to time.  I got one (with the diagnostic manual) for the princely sum of $10 (+ $18 shipping) a few years back.  I almost couldn't believe it when it showed up, as promised.  Mind, I haven't had any occasion to troubleshoot a Honda PGM-FI system since, but it's there in the shop if that ever happens...

 

Ordinarily, of course, there is no reason to remove the connectors, so I would not be doing so as a matter of "maintenance" on any of my bikes.

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

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3 hours ago, Grum said:

....

 

VBOB = ?? I'll have a guess at Voltage Break Out Box!!

 

Vehicle Breakout Box. They were big back in the day before OBD2, self diagnosis and live data in automotive world. Nobody is using them anymore. Motorcycles and outboards still use primitive management systems and vbob may be useful in those nishes .

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