Jump to content
trmoyer

Check in and questions

Recommended Posts

First I want to introduce myself and work on a few things. I’ve been riding for nearly 30 years and had a whole host of bikes. I picked up a 98’ last year with about 15k miles on it after suffering a very bad accident with my wife when we hit a deer in September 2018.
 

The previous owner went through and replaced all fluids, hoses, thermostat, chain, fork seals and the usual odds & ends. It’s a pretty clean ride for her age considering. 

 

Things have been good up to now. We were out for a ride, rolled up to a stop sign and stalled it (forgot to shift back to first). I immediately hit the started button just to have it not want to crank and watch the dash go blank. A quick check of the battery cables, all was snug, I was able to bump start it and make it back home. It restarted with no issue once back. I grabbed a few tools and my Fluke, check resting voltage, voltage drop on crank to start & running, all seemed within spec. I check connections from the stator, rectifier and battery terminals. The connectors look “ok” but do show age. Before jumping into the deep end I’ll recheck the chassis grounds. Is there anything else on the common list of items to check out? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome to the asylum trmoyer. Wise choice of a fifth gen. We'd love to see a picture of your machine if for no other reason than to prove you are not a figment of our imagination. :tongue:

 

I'll leave suggestions on you problems to the experts. For me, electrickery in FM - Frickin' Majik. With a newer r/r and a VFRness (by WireMyBike.com, a member here on VFRD) installed in whichever machine I'm currently riding, my electic problems have disappeared. OxGard on all the connections under the seat makes for surer conductivity. Also, based on older recommendations, I've planned to have a stator sent in for rewinding to improve that function. That in on the top of my to-do list. 

 

Good luck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There’s a wealth of knowledge to be had here, just like anything, over time issues come along and there are very keen folks around to ask questions to. I hope to hear others chime in on this too. 
 

A couple pics, one from when I’d just gotten her, center stand and stock exhaust still and one not long after dropping the stand and factory muffler. I’m not a huge fan of the aftermarket can that’s currently on it but it’s on there for now, it’s a bit LOUD. I’ll swap it out one of these days. 

 

 

7A3AE77E-7303-4957-BDCE-15E2F2F3C2C5.jpeg

B71499B7-8773-467B-8D6E-ACD4C822BCBD.jpeg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll put money on the R/R is dead, its notorious for that year bike.. 

Run this  charging system check out... 

The grab a new R/R from www.roadstercycle.com

 

And as typical the stator connector is probably burn... 

 

Cheers

 

btw - I have a factory muffler in the closet, I'll trade you even for the one you are running now. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the pictures. You obviously have great taste in mc's.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Assuming you have a Good healthy battery with clean tight connections.

 

Then check the state of your Main Fuses A and B they are both 30amp fuses located at your Starter Relay. They suffer badly from high resistance connections and wiring. Visually check the fuses for overheated spade connections, tidy up any overheated wiring. Check the 4P Plug to the Starter Relay for any signs of heat stress.

 

Mello Dudes - "The Drill" is an excellent diagnostic check for your charging system. Your symptoms of "Hit the Starter and all is dead" smells a bit like a Mains Fuse/wiring issues, considering you were able to push start it and make it home.

 

Good Luck, keep us posted.

 

image.png

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Awesome guys, I appreciate the pointers. I did a basic run down yesterday but will dig back into it deeper tomorrow when I’m home from work. The info mentioned and diagram is all pretty basic so I’m hoping for success! Check and recheck 😁
 

I’ll update the thread for sure. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok guys, I went through the drill and here’s the results. 
 

I checked out the battery health on my tester and it’s good.
 

I checked the 30amp fuses(I did replace one as I wasn’t happy when testing it), terminal connections and main ground point on the right side on the chassis. 
 

Resting voltage was 12.5, cranking voltage dropped to 10.0, idle settled at 13.1’ish, at 5000rpm I saw 13.6 at first by eye but when checking the min-max on my meter it showed 14.4, I’m not convinced though as it wasn’t steady. 
 

Checked the stator and had between 0.2-0.3ohm back and forth across the abc combo.

 

Checked for continuity of abc from the stator to ground and found nothing. 
 

With stator connector apart I checked the AC voltage while running and had 20 or so at idle and climbed easily to 50+ at 5000rpm. 
 

So, with the inconsistency running voltage at 5000rpm would it be safe to consider the R/R may be a potential issue? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Before you do anything else I'd suggest you cut out the stator connector and hard-solder these wires with plenty of heatshrink to follow. That connector gets dirty and the resistance will increase dropping the charging voltage. That said, anything up to 14.8V is deemed as "in spec" in the manual. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The connector could be suspect that’s for sure but I wasn’t getting to far ahead of myself before hearing opinions. See pictures. 

98FEC98B-57B8-4429-AB85-26AED40F4135.jpeg

F0977D45-8DC1-418F-AE44-2D15D17B597A.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Concerned about your battery..... your resting voltage should be around 12.8-9 if fully charged, cranking voltage better than 10 as well.... so I suspect it wasn't fully charged, which "maybe" affected your charging readings...... I'd recheck with a fully charged battery and see whazzup then.  Meanwhile, those stator connections must be clean and good, solder them up.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep those stator connections look bad. Definitely solder and sleeve, then see what your charge readings are.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree with the stator connectors, it’s warms to the touch pretty quick, not hot but warm so I’m assuming resistance there.

 

Side question. When looking at parts such as R/R and others in the charging system who’s the go to? Seems both WireMyBike and Roadstercycle are mentioned regarding parts. Is there a preferred vendor or is it a flip of the coin? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Roadstercycle SH847 Kit is what you want. The Shindengen SH847 R/R is the latest in Series technology and the harness bypasses the factory wiring harness with improved charging, grounding, and circuit protection. The R/R is genuine and Jack bench-tests them before shipping. There’s no Chinese garbage, as some of the others are peddling. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, ducnut said:

Roadstercycle SH847 Kit is what you want. The Shindengen SH847 R/R is the latest in Series technology and the harness bypasses the factory wiring harness with improved charging, grounding, and circuit protection. The R/R is genuine and Jack bench-tests them before shipping. There’s no Chinese garbage, as some of the others are peddling. 

Agree that the SH847 is the latest technology and the ultimate way to go, although it's physically larger and takes a little creativity to mount. That said the Fh020aa is fine too, and the stock size, an easy mount.

I'm running it now. IF it ever dies, I'll jump to the 847 and work out a good mount scheme.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
42 minutes ago, mello dude said:

Agree that the SH847 is the latest technology and the ultimate way to go, although it's physically larger and takes a little creativity to mount. That said the Fh020aa is fine too, and the stock size, an easy mount.

I'm running it now. IF it ever dies, I'll jump to the 847 and work out a good mount scheme.

 

 


^^^ Spot-on.
 

I ended up mounting mine on the underside of the rear fender. On my SV, I mounted it under the seat. 

1652310F-E199-4EFC-8C64-539BEC6EEDB3.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As an additional precaution, smear OxGard on all your electircal connections to increase conductivity when your put everything back together.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
39 minutes ago, MaxSwell said:

As an additional precaution, smear OxGard on all your electircal connections to increase conductivity when your put everything back together.

Yeah, that’s a sure thing. I use a product very similar at my job all the time on connections. Sort of second nature anymore 😊

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was going to solder the stator connector leads so that potential was out of the equation but see there really isn’t any slack built into the harness, unless there’s more to give where it snakes down around to the stator cover. I brought everything needed in from my work truck so unless I use the cable stretcher 😉 or resort to adding to the stator leads (which is my last resort at the moment) I’m going to run it as is with a bit of KOPR-SHIELD CP8-TB smucked in the connections. 
 

In the meantime I have a charger hooked up and my meter keeping an eye on things. I’ll rerun a few checks and take her for a ride. 
 

I’m still planning on ordering a Super MOSFET Kit from Jack. For the price it’s cheap insurance. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Update: I let the battery set on the charger and it finally settled at 12.9. When I started the bike at idle it initially was 13’ish and when increased to 5000rpm it didn’t really climb, when back to idle it was 14.0. Repeated this several times, 14.0 at idle then dropping to 13.4 at 5000rpm. 
 

Opposite of what should be going on. Is it an indication of the R/R or am I over looking something? Connections and grounds are good. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That’s usually the R/R.
 

When I ordered my Roadstercycle SH847 kit, I added extra length to both sides of the harness and additional sheathing. This allowed me to run things wherever I wanted. 
 

Best way to conserve wire is to unpin the connector. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You're on the right path IMHO... new R/R for sure.  Connections need to be clean and tight, temporarily, if you need to ride, you could remove the terminals from the connectors..... either clean and solder them, or Oxgard and crimp them tight, wrap with electrical tape.... until your new R/R gets there.  I ordered extra length from Jack too, had to chop off a lot of the yellow wires to get to clean wire, I used uninsulated butt connectors and good shrink wrap, crimped then soldered the bastages.

What I found a little odd was the stator wires are only 16 gauge best I could tell, should at least have been 14.... and Jack's yellow wires are 12 ga.  The PO of my bike had the R/R replaced (with an OEM), and the connections were fried very badly, I just caught it in time.  Either of the mofsets will handle it.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Excellent! 
 

I’ve emailed a couple times with Jack and I’m going to get an order placed. All I can say is he’s super quick to respond and explains everything. 
 

I’ll post an update when I install the Super MOSFET kit. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just for clarification, the SH847 is a Series R/R and the FH020 is a MOSFET R/R. They’re two completely different circuitries. Series opens/closes the charging circuit, as needed. This allows the R/R and stator to run much cooler, as the stator isn’t constantly producing energy. It’s a superior R/R. MOSFET is still a shunt-style R/R, just like the original. It gets hot, just like the original. The circuitry is better than the original, which is why they’re more reliable. The stator is required to constantly produce energy, since the regulator is constantly shunting it off as heat. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.