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slowbird

Wellnut install

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I've tried googling and looking on the forums but I can't see what the problem is.

One of my wellnuts fell out. I've got new wellnuts but I can't get them fitted into the fairings. I've tried both Factory OEM Wellnuts and cheap aftermarket ones and they don't fit.

The diameter of the hole isn't large enough to fit the wellnut into it.

Are they supposed to just slide/press in? Or are they supposed to be this impossible?

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What you are showing is a wellnut that has been compressed in place so long, it’s lost it’s elasticity. You need to pull that on through and replace with a new OEM wellnut.
 

I replaced all mine, on my ‘98, because I got tired of fighting the old ones. 

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Bro,

You have to plug it between the fairing and that hole on your frame

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You have the wellnut correct on the bodywork. Then, another one goes into the bracket you’re pointing to and sandwiches the bodywork, between the infill and bracket. 

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8 minutes ago, ducnut said:

You have the wellnut correct on the bodywork. Then, another one goes into the bracket you’re pointing to and sandwiches the bodywork, between the infill and bracket. 

Ducati fan fixes the VFR forum.  A sign of the coming apocalypse?

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LOL

 

A tip for ya: tighten the bolts just enough to compress the well nut about 50%. Don't squash 'em. They last a lot longer that way.

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If one looks at a virgin well nut it is longer and uncrushed. Put it in the hole you removed the crushed one from. When screwing the pan screw into the well nut after fitting the lower cowl to the upper cowl the screw will compress the well nut, expanding it's width so it will not pull out of it's hole. 

This parts fiche shows what you may need to visualize the process:

 

https://www.hondapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/hon/5053e92af870021c54be367b/lower-cowl

 

#14 in the uncrushed well nut. #13 in the pan screw

 

If you do not already have one, the Honda Service Manual is a necessary book for working on your machine. I use a "store-bought" one because I do not have a smart phone or laptop. You can download a copy from this site. Put it on a thumb drive and take it to a commercial printer for a proper paper copy. The first chapter General Information reveals much needed info. 

 

Another useful tip: Honda (Japanese) cross-headed screws, which look like phillips-head screws, are shaped to not cam-out - phillips head screws are designed to cam-out. So JIS screw drivers, in a couple of sizes, are necessary to preserve the heads of all Japanese mc screws.

Here is a good explaination:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VpqUhIZ-EJo

 

Good luck with all your future mc work.

 

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Yeah JIS screwdrivers/bits are a must have if you wrench on Japanese vehicles.

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1 hour ago, GreginDenver said:

Ducati fan fixes the VFR forum.  A sign of the coming apocalypse?

No longer a 900SS owner, as I sold it a few years ago, to the right person. But, my 5th Gen is a keeper. 

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Thanks for the quick replies all.

I have no point of reference because the wellnut fell out awhile ago.

 

 Wait wait....so the well nut doesn't go into the fairing like the one beside it? It goes into the metal bracket that the fairing slots ontop of?

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1 hour ago, MaxSwell said:

This parts fiche shows what you may need to visualize the process:

 

https://www.hondapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/hon/5053e92af870021c54be367b/lower-cowl

 

#14 in the uncrushed well nut. #13 in the pan screw

 

 

 The parts fiche shows the wellnut going into the fairing! lol so that's what I've been trying to do.

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1 hour ago, slowbird said:

Thanks for the quick replies all.

I have no point of reference because the wellnut fell out awhile ago.

 

 Wait wait....so the well nut doesn't go into the fairing like the one beside it? It goes into the metal bracket that the fairing slots ontop of?


Yes. It goes into the aluminum bracket. 

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23 hours ago, MBrane said:

Yeah JIS screwdrivers/bits are a must have if you wrench on Japanese vehicles.

Or screw-drive...LOL:beer:

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2 hours ago, BuzznerSuntrusts said:

Or screw-drive...LOL:beer:

If you mean a powered screwdriver, it will still benefit from a JIS tip.

 

Manufacturers ramping up industrial production of war materials for WWII had hired many "un- or under-skilled workers. Rather than having them torque every fastener, they made phillips head screws will cause the tip to self-torque out of the fastener at a prescribed point.  

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Did u get it in?

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On 4/10/2020 at 4:46 PM, ducnut said:


Yes. It goes into the aluminum bracket. 

 

 Doh! 🤦‍♂️

Well I feel dumb. I didn't even think to try it in the metal bracket because every other well nut on that panel goes into the fairing. 

Next time I'll look at the other side for comparison. 

11 hours ago, boOZZIE said:

Did u get it in?

I've been busy with work. I'm a 911 dispatcher and these days have been busy. I'll be off in a  couple days and will get into the garage to try again and will report back. 😉

 

 Thanks all. 

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Remove the fairings enough times and you’ll get used to Honda’s idiosyncrasies. Everything on a VFR has a certain way, contrary to common sense. Haha. 

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I had to get 1 back into a fairing hole the other day.

The metal bracket maybe easier.

 

It is tricky and may take several attempts but what I did was squish it to get a section of the lip thru the hole.

Hold that little section in place and slowly push and rotate the fat side of the nut to expose more of the lip thru the hole until it's in place.

 

You may need to cus a couple of times as required😉

 

 

 

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I've found it nearly impossible to align the three pieces to attach that inside screw. I've given up. That thole is empty now, and I'm a lot calmer.

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Yeah, that one can be futile.

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Do yourselves a favor and invest in Dzus fasteners for all the well nut screws on the front! You'll love it! Just get the clip on backings and the type of fastener your prefer. Mine are black D-Ring except for the very top inner (the ones in question that fasten to the metal bracket), and those are 4mm allen button head because they are slightly recessed and the D-Rings won't go flat. Those 10 (Five each side) are the easiest to do with nearly no modifications required. I only had to slightly enlarge each outer hole to get the Dzus to fit and the clip backing fits over the inner panel. I don't bother with the capture washer, I just pull them completely out. I think it's easier to fit the panel back on without the fastener sticking out of it.

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15 hours ago, JimMoore said:

I've found it nearly impossible to align the three pieces to attach that inside screw. I've given up. That thole is empty now, and I'm a lot calmer.

Likely your front subframe is bent from a tip-over. Put that one in first, and leave it loose until you get the others in In fact leave them all loose until they're all started.

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On 4/13/2020 at 11:35 AM, BuzznerSuntrusts said:

Do yourselves a favor and invest in Dzus fasteners for all the well nut screws on the front! You'll love it! Just get the clip on backings and the type of fastener your prefer. Mine are black D-Ring except for the very top inner (the ones in question that fasten to the metal bracket), and those are 4mm allen button head because they are slightly recessed and the D-Rings won't go flat. Those 10 (Five each side) are the easiest to do with nearly no modifications required. I only had to slightly enlarge each outer hole to get the Dzus to fit and the clip backing fits over the inner panel. I don't bother with the capture washer, I just pull them completely out. I think it's easier to fit the panel back on without the fastener sticking out of it.

I know what you mean. I had the fairing kit from Probolt for my old 4th gen and loved the 1/4 turn D-ring fasteners it came with. 

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Posted (edited)
On 4/10/2020 at 1:25 PM, MaxSwell said:

If one looks at a virgin well nut it is longer and uncrushed. Put it in the hole you removed the crushed one from. When screwing the pan screw into the well nut after fitting the lower cowl to the upper cowl the screw will compress the well nut, expanding it's width so it will not pull out of it's hole. 

This parts fiche shows what you may need to visualize the process:

 

https://www.hondapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/hon/5053e92af870021c54be367b/lower-cowl

 

#14 in the uncrushed well nut. #13 in the pan screw

 

If you do not already have one, the Honda Service Manual is a necessary book for working on your machine. I use a "store-bought" one because I do not have a smart phone or laptop. You can download a copy from this site. Put it on a thumb drive and take it to a commercial printer for a proper paper copy. The first chapter General Information reveals much needed info. 

 

Another useful tip: Honda (Japanese) cross-headed screws, which look like phillips-head screws, are shaped to not cam-out - phillips head screws are designed to cam-out. So JIS screw drivers, in a couple of sizes, are necessary to preserve the heads of all Japanese mc screws.

Here is a good explaination:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VpqUhIZ-EJo

 

Good luck with all your future mc work.

 

As for wellnuts, the best are from Honda but expensive. I’ve had good luck ordering from amazon but one has to look at the sizes- thread size, length and diameter. Never really had a problem and I’ve been replacing them for 20 years... really quite simple.

JIS screwdrivers- it took a lot of “crammed-out” Japanese fasteners till I discovered that we’ve been using USS screwdrivers that don’t fit Japanese “cross-headed” screws. Actually the screwdriver that comes in every Honda tool kit is a JIS screwdriver-try it out on the countersunk screws on your brake/clutch reservoir cap. Go to partszilla and you can order just the stem and handle by themselves, about $1-2.00. 

 

Edited by Mac Morgan
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