ChiefGodzilla Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 So I have my exhaust off for stud replacement and to fix a leak. While it is off should I sandblast it or take after it with sandpaper? I do not intend to paint it just yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted February 13, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted February 13, 2016 If it's steel then get it blasted & ceramic coated. Whatever you do don't leave it bare unless it's stainless ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer YoshiHNS Posted February 13, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted February 13, 2016 Unless it was that terrible, I would save the blasting for another time or right before it got painted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChiefGodzilla Posted February 13, 2016 Author Share Posted February 13, 2016 ok so no blasting, but what about wrapping? do I clean it then wrap or just wrap and ignore the surface rust? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted February 13, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted February 13, 2016 sand it! or use navel jelly to eat away at the rust.. depending on how bad it is.. spray with hi temp paint . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MadScientist Posted February 13, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted February 13, 2016 I would recommend against wrapping non-coated, non-stainless headers, especially already rusty ones. The wrap will accelerate the decomposition of the headers. Just sand/wire wheel as much of the rust and loose coating off, wipe the headers down with acetone and do what gll recommends. I've used the rustoleum pictured above as well as stuff labelled for headers/exhaust, either one works fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rush2112 Posted February 13, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted February 13, 2016 If you plan on sandblasting and ceramic coating don't use glass beads to blast; the silica can remain embedded on the metal surface and cause the ceramic coating not to adhere as designed and can flake. Use aluminum oxide or similar for the blast media. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChiefGodzilla Posted February 14, 2016 Author Share Posted February 14, 2016 Well I sand blasted a small portion of my collector and I love the texture it left, anyways to clear coat it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted February 14, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted February 14, 2016 Well I sand blasted a small portion of my collector and I love the texture it left, anyways to clear coat it? maybe high temp silver... EXO-ARMOUR HIGH TEMPERATURE CLEAR COAT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted February 14, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted February 14, 2016 Well I sand blasted a small portion of my collector and I love the texture it left, anyways to clear coat it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MadScientist Posted February 14, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted February 14, 2016 Personal experience with VHT "Flameproof" high temp clear says that it discolors yellow, clouds, then crumbles in the first 4-8" from the head on a carbed, water cooled, 600cc inline 4 cylinder where all 4 downtubes are in the frontal airflow path. This does not happen immediately; it took about 3-4 weeks in midwest summer riding conditions. The VHT label says 1300-2000F, so I'm guessing that frequent, intermittant exposure over the bottom of this limit will eventually degrade the coating. The bike was operated frequently in stop-and-go traffic. Otherwise the coating is fairly durable and was a MAJOR PITA to remove when the coating went pear-shaped. Ended up with "silver" ceramic coating. There are other choices on the market that may perform better, so YMMV with those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve27bha Posted February 14, 2016 Share Posted February 14, 2016 I can report on my UK experience with a 750FR used for commuting daily for 10 months of the year, 8,000+ miles p.a.. The collectors were shot-blasted and painted with VHT paint and cured as per the instructions in March 2005. I don't remember the make of paint. This pic shows the outlet in Sept 2006 with full rust coat. Here is the result of two years' use in March 2007. The outlet flange sheared off and I replaced the whole lot with a Motad - excellent kit. So, VHT paint is not a long-term fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChiefGodzilla Posted February 16, 2016 Author Share Posted February 16, 2016 So I need to find a way to stop my current exhaust from rusting that does not require a lot of money..... Why did I buy her as a commuter.....so much work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted February 16, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted February 16, 2016 so much pleasure...... If looks are important to you, remove surface oxidation/dirt and rub this stuff on it http://www.amazon.com/MEECOS-RED-DEVIL-402-Stove/dp/B002HNSC8A/ref=pd_sim_201_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=51adwavfCVL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR155%2C160_&refRID=1BRH3JYZW0GSGF2D1JM6 It will eventually rust from the inside I reckon.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 I did the stock cast iron exhaust manifolds on my truck with the VHT flameproof silver. Sandblasted them thoroughly down to perfect white metal, and applied the VHT spray as per directions. Coating, drying time, baking, everything was to the T as per instructions. Fitted them, and the coating was flaking off within 2 weeks. Junk Junk Junk. Never again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rush2112 Posted February 18, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted February 18, 2016 Eastwood ceramic exhaust paint... http://www.eastwood.com/paints/hi-temp-engine-paints/exhaust-paints.html Prep correctly and it works, full disclaimer... I had issues with the spray nozzles splattering on the silver the last time I purchased but Eastwood Company customer service is great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coupedupsubie Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 Are you guys that are using the VHT header paint also using the primer? If you don't properly clean, prime, then coat you will have issues. I put roughly 3,000 miles on my headers. I even have one spot where I removed all the paint with a stainless polish and didn't recoat. Oh, I also painted them below the recommended temp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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