RAnderson Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 Ok, so I took everyone's advice and got myself a great chain and sprocket set from sprocketcenter. Now I am in the middle of the project and have a few issues... I realize NOW that I should have taken the front sprocket loose first so I could use the chain and brake for tension to get the front sprocket bolt loose. Since I didn't do it that way, anyone have any suggestions on how I can accomplish taking the front sprocket off with the chain already removed? (Yeah, in pretty proud of myself for getting as far as I did) Also... From what it looks like, the front sprocket looks alright (but I'm a brand new "mechanic" so what do I know?) but I was wondering if the sprocket should have that much play? https://youtu.be/ln5mI7ccYPg Also when I took the three bolts out of the thingy to get to the front sprocket (ok, I just looked it up - it's the clutch slave cylinder) the LONG bolts were badly rusted. I was afraid to attempt to pry the cover off, so I left the short bolt in tact, and continued to gain access to the front sprocket. <br /> This leads me to a few questions... 1.)How do you suppose those long bolts got so badly rusted? 2.) Should I attempt to gain access to the clutch slave cylinder so I can see what it looks like in there (not that I would be able to understand what I'm looking at)? 3.) How should i remove the rubbery feeling grime from the sprocket surroundings and cover? Sent from my Z987 using Tapatalk Sent from my Z987 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer rhoderage Posted December 5, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted December 5, 2015 I'll let the experts answer 1 and 2... 3. Yes, its chain lube 'spooge'. WD-40 should make quick work of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted December 5, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted December 5, 2015 Use a straight edged screw driver or blade to scrap the worst of the gunk out. The rust is from the bolt being installed with NO lubrication, so water seeps in & rusts the unprotected surface, gets hot cold, which helps rust. Be careful with the clutch slave cylinder, it has a spring inside & will push the piston out. Use a G-clamp to keep it in. If you don't understand it, then leave it, but its worth pulling cleaning & lubing the clutch rod, sticking out in fron tof the sprocket in your picture. To get the sprocket nut loose, you can put the bike in 1st gear & then use an impact wrench electric or air powered to undo the nut. If not available, then just put the old chain across the upper run & tie in place so the rear brake can be used to resist the losening of the bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAnderson Posted December 5, 2015 Author Share Posted December 5, 2015 I'll let the experts answer 1 and 2... 3. Yes, its chain lube 'spooge'. WD-40 should make quick work of it. Thanks. What about the sprocket movement in the video. Is that to be expected?Sent from my Z987 using Tapatalk Use a straight edged screw driver or blade to scrap the worst of the gunk out. The rust is from the bolt being installed with NO lubrication, so water seeps in & rusts the unprotected surface, gets hot cold, which helps rust. Be careful with the clutch slave cylinder, it has a spring inside & will push the piston out. Use a G-clamp to keep it in. If you don't understand it, then leave it, but its worth pulling cleaning & lubing the clutch rod, sticking out in fron tof the sprocket in your picture. To get the sprocket nut loose, you can put the bike in 1st gear & then use an impact wrench electric or air powered to undo the nut. If not available, then just put the old chain across the upper run & tie in place so the rear brake can be used to resist the losening of the bolt. Thanks, I understood most of that. I'll give it a try.Sent from my Z987 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer rhoderage Posted December 5, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted December 5, 2015 I did my chain 2 years ago so I don't recall offhand the play in the front sprocket, but from seeing the video I would also be questioning if that was right. Picture the bike going down the highway at 60mph with the front sprocket doing that... Take it off and get a good look at it, check the markings to make sure it is actually the correct sprocket for the bike (search on internet), see if there is any wearing on the mating surface and check the bolt that holds it in as well. I have a feeling once you get it apart it will become more evident... but perhaps someone with more experience will chime in, I recall that OEM front sprockets have a rubber cushion on the backside that reduce noise/vibes, so perhaps the aftermarket without it does naturally have a little more play...but I think that looks excessive. PS to add to my 'use WD-40' comment for around the front sprocket, a used toothbrush will work well to assist scrubbing the chunks out, and won't damage anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAnderson Posted December 5, 2015 Author Share Posted December 5, 2015 Easy peezy! First gear worked like a charm! Sent from my Z987 using Tapatalk I could be wrong, but I think this looks like the original sprocket. Sent from my Z987 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Havagan Posted December 5, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted December 5, 2015 While you have the sprocket off, check the speedometer sensor for wear. There's a nylon piece that fits over the sprocket nut that can wear/round-out and will cause a jumpy speedometer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAnderson Posted December 5, 2015 Author Share Posted December 5, 2015 Wow. Look at the difference between the old and new sprockets. Width and size of the teeth. I'm thinking I'll just put the old one back on. What do you think? Sent from my Z987 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted December 5, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted December 5, 2015 Pressure washing ? Wow. Look at the difference between the old and new sprockets. Width and size of the teeth. I'm thinking I'll just put the old one back on. What do you think?Sent from my Z987 using Tapatalk Sunstar counter sprocket ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAnderson Posted December 5, 2015 Author Share Posted December 5, 2015 What do you think? Looks pretty clean to me. While you have the sprocket off, check the speedometer sensor for wear. There's a nylon piece that fits over the sprocket nut that can wear/round-out and will cause a jumpy speedometer. Sent from my Z987 using Tapatalk Pressure washing ? Wow. Look at the difference between the old and new sprockets. Width and size of the teeth. I'm thinking I'll just put the old one back on. What do you think? Sent from my Z987 using Tapatalk Sunstar counter sprocket ?The new one says Super LiteSent from my Z987 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted December 5, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted December 5, 2015 The OEM front sprocket has rubber flanges to cushion the chain as it rolls on - you can probably see the grooves cut in to the rubber by the chain's side plates. IIRC AFAM makes one like that but most aftermarket counter sprockets lack the rubber cushion. Not a big deal really - it should work fine. What chain did you go with - was it a kit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shinigami Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 I prefer an OEM countershaft sprocket, but the Sprocketcenter kits are generally pretty good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAnderson Posted December 5, 2015 Author Share Posted December 5, 2015 The OEM front sprocket has rubber flanges to cushion the chain as it rolls on - you can probably see the grooves cut in to the rubber by the chain's side plates. IIRC AFAM makes one like that but most aftermarket counter sprockets lack the rubber cushion. Not a big deal really - it should work fine. What chain did you go with - was it a kit?DID OEM kitSent from my Z987 using Tapatalk Anyone know the measurement of the rivet flare the new chain should have? Sent from my Z987 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted December 5, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted December 5, 2015 The OEM front sprocket has rubber flanges to cushion the chain as it rolls on - you can probably see the grooves cut in to the rubber by the chain's side plates. IIRC AFAM makes one like that but most aftermarket counter sprockets lack the rubber cushion. Not a big deal really - it should work fine. What chain did you go with - was it a kit?DID OEM kitSent from my Z987 using Tapatalk Anyone know the measurement of the rivet flare the new chain should have? Sent from my Z987 using Tapatalk The rivet spec depends on the chain. Specs are here: http://www.didchain.com/chainTools.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shinigami Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 correct flare dimensions are on page 11 of this document. http://www.didchain.com/PDF/DID_2014usa_final.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 For future reference in regards to the front sprocket.... To avoid unnecessary torque on your gearbox, just drape the chain over the front and rear sprockets and use a zip tie for temporary tightness/resistence to remove the front sprocket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAnderson Posted December 5, 2015 Author Share Posted December 5, 2015 For future reference on the front sprocket, just drape the chain over the front and rear sprockets and use a zip tie for temporary tightness/resistence to remove the front sprocket.Putting the bike in gear worked like a charm. ThanksSent from my Z987 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MaxSwell Posted December 5, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted December 5, 2015 If you replace a thicker front sprocket with a thinner one (i.e. OEM) the female cap that engages the countershaft male nut may need to be slid on it's axle (shaft) towards the engine block to prevent rapid wear or lack of engagement. It happened to me; lost my speedo and odo until Miguel figured it out for me on the way to SumSum3 (thanks Miguel). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAnderson Posted December 5, 2015 Author Share Posted December 5, 2015 If you replace a thicker front sprocket with a thinner one (i.e. OEM) the female cap that engages the countershaft male nut may need to be slid on it's axle (shaft) towards the engine block to prevent rapid wear or lack of engagement. It happened to me; lost my speedo and odo until Miguel figured it out for me on the way to SumSum3 (thanks Miguel).Thanks for that piece of information it makes sense. What about the more narrow front sprocket? Isn't it closer to the engine block than one that is thicker and has a rubber piece on both sides(like the oem one)? Is there an adjustment that would need to take place to compensate for that?Sent from my Z987 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MaxSwell Posted December 5, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted December 5, 2015 If you replace a thicker front sprocket with a thinner one (i.e. OEM) the female cap that engages the countershaft male nut may need to be slid on it's axle (shaft) towards the engine block to prevent rapid wear or lack of engagement. It happened to me; lost my speedo and odo until Miguel figured it out for me on the way to SumSum3 (thanks Miguel).Thanks for that piece of information it makes sense. What about the more narrow front sprocket? Isn't it closer to the engine block than one that is thicker and has a rubber piece on both sides(like the oem one)? Is there an adjustment that would need to take place to compensate for that?Sent from my Z987 using Tapatalk You are describing exactly the one I mentioned: going from a (potentially) thicker non-OEM sprocket to the thinner OEM sprocket (or a non-OEM that is thinner than the previously installed one). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAnderson Posted December 5, 2015 Author Share Posted December 5, 2015 I wasn't talking about the speed sensor, I was talking about the alignment of the sprocket to the chain Sent from my Z987 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MaxSwell Posted December 5, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted December 5, 2015 I wasn't talking about the speed sensor, I was talking about the alignment of the sprocket to the chain Sent from my Z987 using Tapatalk Okay, sorry. Since I've never swapped out a chain and sprockets myself, I do not know the answer to your question. I'd guess there is nothing to worry about. There's room in there for a thin sprocket and a thicker one with out need for further adjustments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAnderson Posted December 6, 2015 Author Share Posted December 6, 2015 Thanks everyone for your help! Got everything on, all over got to do is find replacement bolts and nuts for the rear sprocket and I'll be set (I assume... Since I haven't cranked or ridden it, which is important) Sent from my Z987 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squirrelman Posted December 7, 2015 Share Posted December 7, 2015 Wire brush the long bolts clean, and be very careful NOT to overtighten them !!!!! Observe tightening sequence illustrated in FSM> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted December 8, 2015 Share Posted December 8, 2015 Listen to squirrelman. I ended up having to toss a few nuts. Pun intended. I gently tightened them to proper torque with a torque wrench, but still manage to strip a few. Buy extra nuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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