threerotor Posted August 3, 2015 Share Posted August 3, 2015 Hey guys, I was messing around with the choke this morning. When you initially start on cold you want it all the way open and when it warms up you just close it right? So I did that this morning and then it shut off after I flipped the choke all the way closed. So I just left it open and rode to work. Usually it's all the way open anyways wasting gas like that. But I'm trying to take care of this lovely motorcycle. It won't start without giving it gas when you start it whether it's cold or hot. So at lunch time I started it in neutral and it just kept shutting off after a couple seconds of running. Like it would in the mornings if I don't hold the gas for a second and let it warm up. But it was warmed up.. What do you guys think is the problem? The float may be stuck now? I'd like to hear some opinions as I am gonna have to ride it home after work and troubleshoot it. I do have another VFR 750 a 95. I use for parts pretty much.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer auggius Posted August 3, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 3, 2015 I start up with choke on and let it run for a couple minutes then close the choke. No choked needed on warm starts. Sounds like you have a problem but don't know what. Too lean? I am not a carb guy. Have not touched mine nor synched them at all on my '95. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
threerotor Posted August 3, 2015 Author Share Posted August 3, 2015 Haha yeah it just happened out of no where it's all running with the choke on but i just realized I was riding it wrong haha. But I wanna do everything right so looks like I'm gonna have to open this baby up and see what's going on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beck Posted August 3, 2015 Share Posted August 3, 2015 I'm kinda confused by the OP's post as there seems to be confusion on what the choke position is when you pull on the lever or push it back to it's normal running position.First lets get it straight on when the choke is closed or open. It is closed when you pull on the choke lever (as it will minimize the air going into the carb and increase the gas flow. A "rich" condition.) to start the bike when it is cold, It is open when you push it back away from you (more air into the carbs for a "normal" lean condition.) when the bike is warmed up and ready to ride. On my 4th gen, I do not have to close/use the choke at all when the bike is still warm and I restart it. If I do use the choke when the bike is warm, the bike tends to flood. When the bike is cold, I usually only need to shut the choke about 3/4ths of the way and the bike will start OK. Then it only takes about a minute to get a good idle then I push froward on the choke lever to fully open it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
threerotor Posted August 3, 2015 Author Share Posted August 3, 2015 I'm kinda confused by the OP's post as there seems to be confusion on what the choke position is when you pull on the lever or push it back to it's normal running position.First lets get it straight on when the choke is closed or open. It is closed when you pull on the choke lever (as it will minimize the air going into the carb and increase the gas flow. A "rich" condition.) to start the bike when it is cold, It is open when you push it back away from you (more air into the carbs for a "normal" lean condition.) when the bike is warmed up and ready to ride. On my 4th gen, I do not have to close/use the choke at all when the bike is still warm and I restart it. If I do use the choke when the bike is warm, the bike tends to flood. When the bike is cold, I usually only need to shut the choke about 3/4ths of the way and the bike will start OK. Then it only takes about a minute to get a good idle then I push froward on the choke lever to fully open it. Ok so when I normally start/restart it, it's closed (pulled all the way towards me) but I never adjust it I just run with it, out of just not knowing. Maybe that's why I have to give it gas when I start it and hold it for a second til it warms up? Otherwise it will shut off.. So to understand you better, it's closed when you start it cold and then push it open when it's warm right? Pretty much like I was trying to do this morning but it started cutting off once it was open and now it's just cutting off after a couple seconds of being started. What could that be I'm not sure. If it wasn't starting at all I don't think it'd be flooding though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rectaltronics Posted August 3, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 3, 2015 Have you checked the breather filter? (is that the right name?) The little foam filter in a small plastic box under the gas tank, kind of hangs off a tube that goes to the carbs. That thing will gum up and cause that kind of problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
threerotor Posted August 3, 2015 Author Share Posted August 3, 2015 No haven't checked that yet but will check it out. Hopefully I can ride the bike home when I get off work in an hour lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mk2davis Posted August 3, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 3, 2015 The bike should be set up so that it holds idle when warm without the choke on. If the breather filter is suspect, you can take it off (solely for testing purposes, of course). Sometimes my 3rd gen doesn't like the choke turned off abruptly, but if I give it a little bit of throttle, turn the choke off, and then ease off the throttle, it works like a champ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbkenison Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 Sounds like your pilot jets are clogged, and the idle speed maybe set too low. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
threerotor Posted August 4, 2015 Author Share Posted August 4, 2015 Okay cool I'm currently putting the bike under the magnifying glass. That ride home was rough, had to hold the gas in 1st gear at every stop light to keep it alive lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
threerotor Posted August 4, 2015 Author Share Posted August 4, 2015 Disconnected the hose from the breather filter, started it and it still turned off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rectaltronics Posted August 4, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 4, 2015 Disconnected the hose from the breather filter, started it and it still turned off So that probably wasn't it but before you write that off totally, open the little box and make sure the filter didn't crumble and get sucked down the hose. And since you're there, if you've never replaced that filter, now is probably a good time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted August 4, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 4, 2015 http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/75397-carb-cleaning-tips/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
threerotor Posted August 4, 2015 Author Share Posted August 4, 2015 thought i'd send some photos, and read the replies maybe new jets would just be easier. i don't think a Sponge material can be used as an air filter lmao.. Dirty working previous owners this is garbage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted August 4, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 4, 2015 The shape of an oem airfilter frame is not rectangular... cannot tell if this is a proper aftermarket setup or a "here is one we prepared earlier..." As mentioned, also check the small secondary airfilter+tube. Below the bottom right corner of the main airbox. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
750 Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 Both my VFR's have clean carbs, very clean. Both start with choke fully open and it can be closed off within 30 seconds, both will then idle at around 950-1000 rpm until I ride them, they'll both idle around 1100 after a few minutes riding.One bike is standard carbs, one is with a dynojet kit set up to suit a sebring left exit exhaust . So I doubt jetting will change a thing. Take the carbs out and send them off to someone who actually knows what they're doing to have them professionally cleaned with an ultrasonic cleaner. Seal kits shouldn't be necessary but can be had from Litetek with a superior material being used http://litetek.co/ Worth it as if you keep using the bike without parking it up for months on end, they'll never need cleaning again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
threerotor Posted August 4, 2015 Author Share Posted August 4, 2015 The shape of an oem airfilter frame is not rectangular... cannot tell if this is a proper aftermarket setup or a "here is one we prepared earlier..." As mentioned, also check the small secondary airfilter+tube. Below the bottom right corner of the main airbox. Checked the filter and it was fine but yeah that's exactly what I'm thinking. Both my VFR's have clean carbs, very clean. Both start with choke fully open and it can be closed off within 30 seconds, both will then idle at around 950-1000 rpm until I ride them, they'll both idle around 1100 after a few minutes riding. One bike is standard carbs, one is with a dynojet kit set up to suit a sebring left exit exhaust . So I doubt jetting will change a thing. Take the carbs out and send them off to someone who actually knows what they're doing to have them professionally cleaned with an ultrasonic cleaner. Seal kits shouldn't be necessary but can be had from Litetek with a superior material being used http://litetek.co/ Worth it as if you keep using the bike without parking it up for months on end, they'll never need cleaning again. That's awesome. Nice bike will definitely take the carbs off and clean them or get them cleaned here soon. Yesterday kinda opened my eyes up a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rectaltronics Posted August 4, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 4, 2015 thought i'd send some photos, and read the replies maybe new jets would just be easier. i don't think a Sponge material can be used as an air filter lmao.. Dirty working previous owners this is garbage Holy crap, ghetto air cleaner. Last time I bought I used bike I sat there before I plunked my money down and did everything short of sticking a borescope in the sparkplug holes. Stuff like this is why. Good luck... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beck Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 That sponge used for a filter is totally inappropriate.I suspect that it's just mattress type foam which is too dense and most likely closed cell so that it is prety much impermeable to any usable intake air flow for the motor. Your first step should be to get a proper OEM air filter for the bike THEN, start form there to tune it back to roadability..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
threerotor Posted August 5, 2015 Author Share Posted August 5, 2015 Exactly! know air filters aren't supposed to be like that. I was mad when I saw that. So I took the carbs off today. I know it wasn't supposed that hard but geez, I took off the throttle cables, choke cable, and loosened the 4 clamps which were at ridiculously- hard to reach angles. The Throttle cable was not giving me much room to play with, I took off the top piece of plastic and would turn the rubber in whichever direction for more play in the cable but the little endings just weren't coming out of the slot. Hardest part of everything was that but I'm going to bring the carbs to work in the morning and clean them. I'm honestly wondering if it was just the choke-linkage thats so dirty that it got stuck or wouldn't move as freely as it should which could cause my problem but I'm not sure yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
threerotor Posted August 6, 2015 Author Share Posted August 6, 2015 Put the carbs back on today. Also found a slit in one of the fuel hoses and replaced the hose. The Negative terminal was getting a bad connection so I cleaned up the ground as well. Went to start it and it try's to start but just clicks now. Almost like there's not enough juice on the battery, checked the voltage and it's got 12V so I'm stumped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
threerotor Posted August 6, 2015 Author Share Posted August 6, 2015 Also changed the air filter with a brand new oem one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
threerotor Posted August 8, 2015 Author Share Posted August 8, 2015 I guess it's fixed, I don't what I did lol all I did was change the fuel pump from my 95 and the #3/4 ignition coils. Got my battery charged all the way. I ordered new handle bar grips because I kinda broke the plastic where one of the throttle cables is held in place. I can't tell if the throttle gets stuck but it runs fine now. Weird. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
threerotor Posted August 11, 2015 Author Share Posted August 11, 2015 Today after riding home from work it cut off and as I tried to start it again the battery sounded like it was dead again. Though it was just charged and is brand new. I jumped it ran it again and same thing after it was turned off. Where should I begin? R/R, stator, regulator? Any help is taken into consideration, thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted August 11, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 11, 2015 It sounds like you're saying the battery is good but struggling or not able to turn the motor over. If that's the case, check the starter relay, fuse and connections, connection at the starter motor and grounds. Follow the negative battery cable from the battery to the frame - remove it and check the condition. Clean if necessary and reinstall. Try using some Ox-gard on the connections - it helps clean up corrosion and improve connectivity. Home centers and Amazon have it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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