hilbily Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 2008 model 27000 miles - I was going to wire up a Fuzeblock so that I can install a Blues Sea USB socket, a voltmeter, and my Autocom. Start looking things over. Main 30 amp fuse holder brown on one side, well crap. Pulled the starter magnet connection and one of the connections corroded and the connector burnt, well double crap. So i have decided its time to cover my butt. Will run the drill ASAP, Will order the VFRness as soon as I get a few spare bucks, will check the R/R yellow wire connection and correct (not sure what route to take with that one yet, soldier, Posi-Lock connectors, or stator hardwire kit from wiremybike). Hopefully I caught things before more damage is done and its a good thing there is still snow on the ground. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement connector for the starter magnet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted March 2, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted March 2, 2015 Sorry, I luck out the previous owner had already installed the VFRness . Here are the best connectors . http://www.easternbeaver.com/main/elec__products/connectors/connectors.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted March 3, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted March 3, 2015 As long as you're at 'the drill', you might try some Oxgard. I've used it on my '08 and so far all my connections look perfecto. I'm trying out Posilocks on my new stator - Shhhh . . . - I'm keeping a close eye on them and will replace with Tightwads hardwire kit if I start to have any issues. I went up 1 size to the yellows for 10 to 12 ga wire. I've had such good success with them in other applications I thought I'd give them a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer joepopp Posted March 3, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted March 3, 2015 Hilbily, Thanks for posting this! I'm new here and getting my feet wet with all of the "to do" stuff for my VFR. I'm currently reading all of the pinned topics in the electrical section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hilbily Posted March 3, 2015 Author Share Posted March 3, 2015 I am going to consider myself "lucky" at this point. Didn't have time to run the drill last night but did pull the right side fairing and pulled connectors, no signs of melting, burning, corrosion, nada. Still thinking about replacing with the Posi-Locks or a direct solder. Will make a decision once I have run the drill. At this point not sure the VFRness is needed but I do want to get a repalcement connector for the starter magnet and change the 30 amp main fuse holder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer jeffyjeff Posted March 3, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted March 3, 2015 In my experience, the VFR electrical systems shortcoming is mainly in the connectors. The previous owner of my bike had installed some type of aftermarket wiring kit (not sure if it was VFRness). It was way overkill...the wire gauge was excessive for the amperage. I tore all that out and wired back to stock with a redundant ground. That was 4 years and 53,000 miles ago. no melted wires yet. Jeff J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JZH Posted March 4, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted March 4, 2015 I am going to consider myself "lucky" at this point. Didn't have time to run the drill last night but did pull the right side fairing and pulled connectors, no signs of melting, burning, corrosion, nada. Still thinking about replacing with the Posi-Locks or a direct solder. Will make a decision once I have run the drill. At this point not sure the VFRness is needed but I do want to get a repalcement connector for the starter magnet and change the 30 amp main fuse holder. Posi-locks? Those ridiculously bulky, bodgy wire taps some people seem to think are the dog's danglies? You must mean something else! There are plenty of decent, environmentally sealed connectors out there to choose from, such as the ones Switchblade linked to. I have been happy with the Delphi Metri-Pack series, but you do need to buy almost in bulk sometimes. Good luck. Ciao, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hilbily Posted March 10, 2015 Author Share Posted March 10, 2015 Got it all cleaned up and hooked back up. Replaced the red starter connector with a new one. Took it out for about a 2 mile run yesterday. New volt meter was indicating 14.1 volts at idle and never changed up to 6k or 7k with low beams on. Flipped on the high beams and I dropped to 13.8 volts. Would these numbers alarm anyone else? I still plan on the VFRness and removing/replacing the yellow wires connection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wera803 Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 My 5th gen runs about 14.1V at speed and drops to 13.8V at idle. I had the stator rewound when it failed and asked for the high output. I also have a FH020 regulator. The yellow wires are crimped and soldered and I have a VFRness. The bike has always had voltages similar to this (except when the stator started to fail at 68k miles), so it is "normal" for my bike and I don't worry about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNRabbit Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 those numbers are fine. I would only worry if they began to drop. Usually an indication of trouble is when they begin to drop as the engine gets hotter.....that means the stator is going out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted March 10, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted March 10, 2015 Numbers look good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rectaltronics Posted March 10, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted March 10, 2015 I am going to consider myself "lucky" at this point. Didn't have time to run the drill last night but did pull the right side fairing and pulled connectors, no signs of melting, burning, corrosion, nada. Still thinking about replacing with the Posi-Locks or a direct solder. Will make a decision once I have run the drill. At this point not sure the VFRness is needed but I do want to get a repalcement connector for the starter magnet and change the 30 amp main fuse holder. Posi-locks? Those ridiculously bulky, bodgy wire taps some people seem to think are the dog's danglies? You must mean something else! There are plenty of decent, environmentally sealed connectors out there to choose from, such as the ones Switchblade linked to. I have been happy with the Delphi Metri-Pack series, but you do need to buy almost in bulk sometimes. Good luck. Unless I'm the one wildly misunderstanding something, the stuff that Switchblade linked to (at Eastern Beaver) is meant for a totally different purpose. I've never heard anyone have anything bad to say about Posi-Locks and Posi-Taps. What's the gripe?? Moving along... If something is gonna be soldered, learn about the Western Union splice. Works OK on most motorcycle -sized gauges of stranded wire. Use marine-grade (inner coated) shrink tubing over the splice for trouble-free performance in all weather. If you're gonna crimp, buy the right tool and dies for the crimp connectors you're going to use, and make sure you know how to crimp correctly. Crimps are incredibly strong if done right. And again, stick with marine-grade stuff. There really is a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted March 11, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted March 11, 2015 "Unless I'm the one wildly misunderstanding something, the stuff that Switchblade linked to (at Eastern Beaver)" These are made for Eastern Beaver connectors are made for the R\R on the right , Shindengen's R\R. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted March 11, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted March 11, 2015 Should have been a little more clear on there use . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 Unless you are rewiring everything, the Shindegen R/R ends up with another connection to adapt it to the bike. I find that a good OEM style Mosfet R/R is perfect and solves that issue. If your stator connector is that clean, don't change it! Usually a bad Stator connector is caused by corrosion or a stator beginning to fail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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