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5Th Gen Dyno Reading 72Hp!


adeyren

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Harp Lager!!! Urrrgh. Stella or Kronenbourg over here! Or better still.

Leffe (Leffe Brune 6.5%, Leffe Blond 6.6%)

"Brewed in Leuven, just to the east of Brussels, Leffe is strong and malty and comes in two main varieties. Leffe Blond is bright, fragrant, and has a slight orangey flavour, whereas Leffe Brune is dark, aromatic and full of body. Very popular, but a little gassy for some tastes."

Heaven

I will try it next time .

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60 horse will get you 130mph, my old VF500 had 59whp & managed just shy of 130 with me on it ! And that was on the road, the 130 was dyno speed with no air resistance.

I am pretty sure that he said it hit 130 mph EASILY on the road. There is no way you are doing that with 72 hp. you would need to be full tuck for ever, down hill, with the wind at your back, with a ridiculously optimistic speedo. Besides the fact that the vf500 is considerably smaller than a vfr800.

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Sorry guys been working like a dog last two days hence no replies. Have been on to another Dyno shop (http://www.rkperformanceparts.com/). Take a look at their in shop turboed 1200 Bandit on the dyno.Perhaps mohawk may know about them. They are about equidistant from both of us. Anyway got the bike booked in there for next week for a run as she is ie untouched since last ride. He reckons the guy didn't pinch the pair valves off last time and this will lead to a lean reading. Does it make this much difference? Am no expert in stuff like this but i'm learning fast! He also said don't believe all quoted bike manufacturers bhp readings. Hes had a BMW HP 4 on his dyno, 177bhp as against the factory 198. How much power do you lose in transmission etc on a bike? I used to race a Range Rover special a few years ago. Had a Alfa Romeo 3.0 V6 rear mounted engine, BMW Gertrag box driving a Discovery transfer box. Had the engine dynoed and then the car dynoed. 230bhp engine and 195 whp at the wheels which you can expect as there is a lot of transmission parts on that vehicle ie two props, two heavy duty diffs, four heavy duty half shafts etc etc.Soon as i get the bike done i will post the graphs for you to look at

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I thought as much, hopefully the new run will throw some light on everything.

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Dyno runs are very dependent on the operator as well as the weather/altitude. For comparison sake you should have a baseline to start from, and have the same operator at the same weather/altitude conditions for consecutive runs.

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Dyno runs are very dependent on the operator as well as the weather/altitude. For comparison sake you should have a baseline to start from, and have the same operator at the same weather/altitude conditions for consecutive runs.

Plus 1! Best point so far!!!

Dyno runs are very dependent on the operator as well as the weather/altitude. For comparison sake you should have a baseline to start from, and have the same operator at the same weather/altitude conditions for consecutive runs.

Plus 1! Best point so far!!!

A single dyno sheet is pretty worthless for anything other than bragging rights, without some sort of baseline.

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60 horse will get you 130mph, my old VF500 had 59whp & managed just shy of 130 with me on it ! And that was on the road, the 130 was dyno speed with no air resistance.

I am pretty sure that he said it hit 130 mph EASILY on the road. There is no way you are doing that with 72 hp. you would need to be full tuck for ever, down hill, with the wind at your back, with a ridiculously optimistic speedo. Besides the fact that the vf500 is considerably smaller than a vfr800.

I used to ride an sv650s, with 70bhp.

125mph indicates was the most i ever got i think. It certainly wasnt 'easy' to get there. It slowed down past 100mph.

The vfr will obviously get to 130mph easily (and more) with full power as we all know, but i dont think itd get there with 70bhp either.

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60 horse will get you 130mph, my old VF500 had 59whp & managed just shy of 130 with me on it ! And that was on the road, the 130 was dyno speed with no air resistance.

I am pretty sure that he said it hit 130 mph EASILY on the road. There is no way you are doing that with 72 hp. you would need to be full tuck for ever, down hill, with the wind at your back, with a ridiculously optimistic speedo. Besides the fact that the vf500 is considerably smaller than a vfr800.

I used to ride an sv650s, with 70bhp.

125mph indicates was the most i ever got i think. It certainly wasnt 'easy' to get there. It slowed down past 100mph.

The vfr will obviously get to 130mph easily (and more) with full power as we all know, but i dont think itd get there with 70bhp either.

A 75 hp kawasaki had a topspeed over 160 mph ( If you had the balls to do it on that fragile 2 stroke bike) Even a good streamlined fairing rises the topspeed, so it is difficult te compare different types of bike. The same hp might give a big difference in topspeed.

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Finally got the bike on another Dyno Thursday, see the two readings. As you can see they are about the same as the guy who did the second reading said his Dyno reads slightly low. When we got the bike bike in the Dyno room he said that it smells like its running rich.When Rich from R K Performance lifted the tank to pinch the air valves off he noticed straight away that the air box was not fitting correctly allowing air in which is why the first guy said it was running really lean although he didn't mention the air box. When he looked at the map the first guy had compensated for this by dumping loads of fuel in at low revs then really leaning off at high revs! The upshot is Rich reckons there's a plug going down or maybe a dodgy coil.

On the way home after about 20 miles i noticed at approx 4000 rpm the bike felt like i was stamping the rear brake on and off and not pulling at all. Was going to change the plugs anyway but how can i check for a dodgy coil apart from replacing it?

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The problem with coils is they break down under load, so a resistance test cold will not show any issues :( You can rig up a coil rpm meter, you can get these quite cheap, they wrap a wire around the ccoil HT & that induces a pulse for the meter to read rpm. You can use one & move it around the 4 coils to see which loses rpm when the bike stumbles. Pull the plugs first & you might get an indication as to which one is bad.

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Finally got the bike on another Dyno Thursday, see the two readings. As you can see they are about the same as the guy who did the second reading said his Dyno reads slightly low. When we got the bike bike in the Dyno room he said that it smells like its running rich.When Rich from R K Performance lifted the tank to pinch the air valves off he noticed straight away that the air box was not fitting correctly allowing air in which is why the first guy said it was running really lean although he didn't mention the air box. When he looked at the map the first guy had compensated for this by dumping loads of fuel in at low revs then really leaning off at high revs! The upshot is Rich reckons there's a plug going down or maybe a dodgy coil.

On the way home after about 20 miles i noticed at approx 4000 rpm the bike felt like i was stamping the rear brake on and off and not pulling at all. Was going to change the plugs anyway but how can i check for a dodgy coil apart from replacing it?

Buy an infrared thermometer. Go for a short ride and measure the temperatures of the four headers. They should each have aproximately the same temperature. I personally think, that your bike is running on 3 cilinders. So changing plugs is the first thing to do.

One simpel test might be helpfull. Start the engine and disconnect the low voltage wire's one by one of each coil. Every time the engine should stall or have a lower rpm. When there is no lower rpm or stall, you have found the faulty coil.

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Thanks mohawk and VFR Bert, first thing i was going to do was pull the plugs anyway and the test for the coils is a good idea, thanks. One thing i noticed on the round trip to the Dyno shop |(90 miles) is the fuel consumption has rocketed and exhaust is black. On another matter am thinking of changing full exhaust system from my current Delkovic s/s system. Can anybody personally recommend another? Preferably easily available here in the UK. From what i have read the Delkovic is not that good although it sounds great with the baffle removed!

Ps can anybody point me to a thread on how to remove the pair valve system?

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Dutchy's bike in september didn't run properly and the exhaust gas smells for fuel.

On a maintenance day of the Dutch VFR forum i noticed, one of hiss coils wasn't connected to te plug. His bike ran on 3 cilinders and was still rideable in a normal way. Your problem sounds about the same and 72 hp is about the hp a VFR has on 3 cilinders.

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Thanks mohawk and VFR Bert, first thing i was going to do was pull the plugs anyway and the test for the coils is a good idea, thanks. One thing i noticed on the round trip to the Dyno shop |(90 miles) is the fuel consumption has rocketed and exhaust is black. On another matter am thinking of changing full exhaust system from my current Delkovic s/s system. Can anybody personally recommend another? Preferably easily available here in the UK. From what i have read the Delkovic is not that good although it sounds great with the baffle removed!

Ps can anybody point me to a thread on how to remove the pair valve system?

You could check out Motad based in West Midlands - they do a really nice full stainless and it's less than £500 from memory. Much better quality than Delkovic and you've got factory support. Your symptoms sound like you're on 3 cylinders especially with all that soot - dead plug or coil perhaps. Doesn't it feel sickly? I had a Pan European with the same problem but it felt like there was a potato up the exhaust pipe - no top end or proper acceleration.

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Yeah I said 3 cylinders,laymans guess 72hp is about 3/4 of what you should have.my bike was on 3 when I bought her,I knew she wasn't right,so figured a good service into the buying price,turned out it was just a front plug lead not connected properly.

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kyojitsu, thanks for that. In fact on Monday am going up to Motad to pick up a full system, they are only up the road from me so saves on the postage. They are also going to give me a tour of the factory!! think you are both right ie running on three but funnily the bike feels ok? Still pulls ok and gets to 130.Gonna be pulling the plugs this weekend as a prelude to a full going over this winter.

New exhaust, braided brake and clutch lines, chain, sprockets,synthetic oil,clutch strip, relocate rectifier,LED bulb conversion, powder coated wheels (gold?), caliper rebuilds, fairings cleaned up and repaired and anything else that will probably crop up.

Wouldn't mind the calipers a matching gold but what's the best method to paint them?

People say i am mad spending money on her, why don't i get an all singing and dancing sportsbike? Answer, they're boring! My bikes got character, sounds gorgeous and does everything i want ie scratching around, touring, track days and is plenty fast enough for me without being overly technical and hard to work on.Ever tried keeping up a constant 120? Bloody hard work.

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My bike has motad headers,one thing you'll need to do is trim the lower side of the right hand fairing a bit,becuase the headers run a bit lower than the oem ones and touch the fairing slightly,you'll see a lot of vfrs with aftermarket headers with a melted bit on the bottom right of the fairing,just needs maybe a 1/4 inch trimmed off where it's going to be touching, you'll see it anyway when you fit them,

I have a Fuel end can/motad headers, the motad silencer is a bit too quiet from what I read,I have the baffle out,400mm can,great sound now. Fuelexhausts.com are based in Cumbria.

my wheels are gold,done very well,I'd like the calipers gold also, I'm going to add some vinyl wrap on the fairing,the solid green is a bit too dull I think,might add a bit of gold also,the plastics and fork lowers are in as good as new condition.

Funny when I test rode this bike I knew she'd been sitting a long time,only done 1000 miles in the last 6 years,so I expected her to be running bad,and I knew she wasn't right,but she still drove well enough,then I found she was only running on 3 cylinders! plug lead not connected right,still needed a full service and check over,

I think these bikes are well worth investing in,I just need to brighten the looks of her up a bit, the good thing with the vinyl is it can be removed anytime to put her back to stock colour.

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Did you get your wheels powder coated? Definitely need the can louder. One thing about the DK can, sounded good with no baffle as long as round town you kept the revs down. I think the gold should look good with the red. Will bear in mind your tip about the fairing.

Where in Ireland are you? Went on a weeks ride there in August from Kinsale up the West Coast awesome place, great roads, scenery and everybody so friendly. Definitely going again. Am coming over next year for the NW 200.

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I go to the northwest every year,give me a shout if your over might see you somewhere around Portrush,I'm from Donegal so it's not far away,great roads up here,what part of Britain are you from?

it's well worth touring Donegal,we don't get as many tourists as Kerry,mostly British and Europeans come up here so the roads aren't too hectic in the Summer,down the west coast is great too,the Dingle peninsula,Connor pass and Slea hd area is one of my favourites,also the Healy pass between Cork and Kerry,who needs the Alps!! LOL.

Check out the Fuel exhausts,great quality and sound,not too loud at lower revs but great as you open the throttle.The wheels were already gold when I bought her,whoever done them done a great job.

Here's what she looks like now,thinking of adding some white like the second pic,maybe not as much.

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Finally pulled the plugs today. As you can see one plug (No 4) doesn't look like its been firing at all, very clean with no sooting marks or anything. It looks almost new! Lead looks OK so seems like a dodgy coil, trouble is wont be able to get one soon too near Xmas.

Also checked the air box not supposedly "fitted correctly". Have recently fitted a K & N filter and they have a lot thicker, deeper rubber seal on them hence the box does not clamp down as far as a standard filter although it is sealed. Any body else noticed this?

PS No 4 is on the far right

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