Member Contributer MadScientist Posted April 3, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted April 3, 2015 At the bottom of your dyno readout, the Air:Fuel ratio is shown, as read by the sensor attached to the dyno apparatus. The blue line on your graph is the "before tuning" line and the red line is the "after tuning". Whoever previously tuned your bike had it running so rich that it was below the detection limits of the sensor (or range of the display), so in essence it flat-lines at the bottom of the graph at 10.8:1. The chemical equivalent point (stoichiometric) for air to fuel is ~14.8:1. Essentially, you need 14.8 grams of air to burn 1 gram of fuel. If you don't have 14.8 grams of air (less than 14.8:1), then fuel will go unburned or incompletely combusted out the tailpipe. However, peak power is not necessarily achieved at the stoichiometric ratio. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer BusyLittleShop Posted April 4, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted April 4, 2015 Chain and sprockets are both brand new. Considering fully synthetic next change.Any recommendations? Start with Baileyrock's oil thread... read 540 Rat's test of 151 different oils and how they rank against wear... number 4 on the list is $25 a quart 5W30 Motul 300V Ester Core 4T motorcycle specific oil... number 10 on the list is $5.60 a quart 5W30 Mobil 1, API SN synthetic car oil... http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/80405-new-oil-thread-for-winter/ I personally tested whether a motorcycle specific oil produced better wear numbers than a Passenger Car Motor Oil (PCMO)... Selected were Amsoil MCT 10w30 and Mobil 1 AFE 0w30... as you can see the wear and shear rates were about same... big difference is price $12.95 qt for Amsoil or $5.60 qt Mobil 1... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer BusyLittleShop Posted April 4, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted April 4, 2015 Chain and sprockets are both brand new. Considering fully synthetic next change.Any recommendations? What's important about a fully synthetic oil are the molecules which are the same size and composition which decreases friction... In a mineral oil the molecules vary in size and composition which increases friction... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFRMAN Posted April 4, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted April 4, 2015 Just got new chain and sprockets so hopefully get them fitted next week,if it gives a gain of 10hp wow,she's fairly quick as she is,for my ability anyway. I use Motul 10w40 semi synthetic 4T Ade, it's an oil that's well thought of here among fellas who know bikes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer CHUCK2 Posted April 4, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted April 4, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer adeyren Posted April 7, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 7, 2015 How is the fuel mileage now? Just done a "proper run" of 167 miles with my son as pillion on a full tank and a top box.Averaging 80 - 90 mostly motorway with a really quick blast on an empty stretch of mway indicating 130 on the clock but with a 16t sprocket so not sure what real speed is.Average fuel was 44.5mpg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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