Member Contributer HumalogAddict Posted April 18, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 18, 2014 Well I thought I had this all resolved last summer with the new main fuse holder, soldering a few connections and a VFRness but I'm having charging issues (surprise, surprise....) ever since I took by bike out last week and had a quick question about the resistance readings from one yellow wire coming from the stator to another. (First off, yes the battery is good. Had it load tested yesterday) Anyways, I was using the service manual troubleshooting steps and then decided to have a look at the electrosport flow chat. The service manual states that if the resistance is between 0.1 ohms and 1.0 ohms, to go to the next step. In the flow chart however, if readings are not between 0.5 ohms and 2.0 ohms, the stator is found to be at fault. Now my readings are AB: 0.3, AC: 0.2 and BC: 0.2, which is fine by the service manual standards but not by the flow chart standards. I know a lot of other things can be in play and I may be back with full results and more questions but was simply wondering which range of readings to go by. Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MBrane Posted April 18, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 18, 2014 Are those readings with the stator hot? Test both the resistance, and AC voltage output with the stator hot. They will often test OK cold, but fail when warmed up. As long as the wiring shows some resistance the windings are not hard shorted, and the stator will be functional. Those readings are on the low side so it could be soft shorting. If the AC voltage output is low as well the windings are deteriorating which puts too much current into the R/R. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MadScientist Posted April 18, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 18, 2014 That is almost identical to my 5th gen. DId you measure AC voltage with the bike running? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted April 18, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 18, 2014 +1 on a hot resistance check. You may as well do a pin to ground check too. Should be nada - infinity, no conductivity. And the AC volts - idle to 5k and up. -Whats da numbers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer HumalogAddict Posted April 18, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 18, 2014 Thanks for the help guys! So I got the bike warm by letting it idle for 10-15 minutes. Got it up a little past 100 C (about 212F). I imagine that is what would be considered a hot test but please let me know if this is not the case. Resistance was a little higher, more or less 0.3 - 0.4 for each pair (AB, AC and BC). Testing in ohms from each yellow wire to the engine casing got a beep each time. AC voltage at about 500RPM is really low... AB is about 18v and both AC and BC are around 26. Have I found my (or one of my) culprits? Thanks!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 JUst about in every case a bad stator is generally shorted to ground stator, if its bad, doing the stator to ground test, there will be no need to go further. So back off ac, ab ect. set your meter on Mega ohms, in order to detect the slightest continuity, this is why you need to be on a real high setting, or you can miss a short. How does this test come out , each yellow wire to ground? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer HumalogAddict Posted April 18, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 18, 2014 Testing in ohms (with the continuity setting selected) from each yellow wire to the engine casing got a beep each time. So that would indicate continuity and therefore a short to ground correct? (sorry I'm slightly electrically challenged ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 From what I can gather your stator is shot. V AC readings should be identical for all three combinations and equal to roughly 11.5 V AC per each 1000 rpm. I understand you are taking those readings with the stator to R/R disconnected, at least that is the proper way to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer HumalogAddict Posted April 18, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 18, 2014 Yes, this is with the bike warm (about 100C), revs at about 5000rpm and the stator disconnected from the RR. Weird how it would die during the winter storage months. I was having very slight charging issues at the end of last season but I though it was just the cold weather making it harder to start. Oh well, I guess at 60000km (37000 miles) that's not too bad for the original stator. I'll also order a Ricks's RR as I imagine it's a question of time before that goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 Testing in ohms (with the continuity setting selected) from each yellow wire to the engine casing got a beep each time. So that would indicate continuity and therefore a short to ground correct? (sorry I'm slightly electrically challenged ) I would say so, but anything other that infinite on an ohms (digit) scale reading = shorted stator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted April 18, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 18, 2014 +1 ---------- Stator shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MBrane Posted April 19, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 19, 2014 Yeah it's the heat cycles not the heat itself that destroys the insulation on the windings. I bet when you pull that stator out it will look like top brown toast on top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted April 19, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 19, 2014 I got my Ricks stator (and mosfet RR) through wiremybike.com Will see if I can fit it this weekend... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer IntAceptor Posted April 19, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 19, 2014 If and when you do the high resistance (megohm) stator test, be sure to keep your fingers off the pointed leads. Most ohm meters that are better than junk will read a resistance through your body and give you a false reading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer HumalogAddict Posted April 19, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 19, 2014 Thanks so much for the help guys, it's much appreciated! My new Ricks stator is ordered and on it's way. This is a fine example of why this forum is so damn great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 Since you went aftermarket(your off the radar) but was your original Oem and how many miles on the bike? If it has the original connector its probably the oem . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer HumalogAddict Posted April 20, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 20, 2014 It was the original stator and the bike now has just over 60 000km (about 37 000 miles). It no longer had the connector though as I cut that off and inserted 12 gauge wires and bullet connectors instead last year (see my previous thread where I though I had it resolved). Rick's seems to have some great feedback so I decided to go with them for both the new stator and the RR I bought as a spare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MBrane Posted April 20, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 20, 2014 I just pulled my Rick's stator with nearly 40K on it for other reasons, and it looks pretty good. A little brown on top, but nowhere near burnt. Looks like I will be extending my stator replacement schedule to 50K for this round. I will replace this one anyway, and keep it as a spare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MBrane Posted April 28, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 28, 2014 My guess would be the connection simply became loose with vibration, and heat cycles which led to arcing which led to a deteriorating connection which led to heat in the connector which continued on the downward spiral. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted April 28, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 28, 2014 My guess would be the connection simply became loose with vibration, and heat cycles which led to arcing which led to a deteriorating connection which led to heat in the connector which continued on the downward spiral. That's way I direct wired mine . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MBrane Posted April 28, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 28, 2014 My guess would be the connection simply became loose with vibration, and heat cycles which led to arcing which led to a deteriorating connection which led to heat in the connector which continued on the downward spiral. That's way I direct wired mine . That's a good way to go, but a couple zip ties on the connector has worked well for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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