Crewwolfy Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 Forgive the brevity, posting this from the phone in the garage.. Turn the key, nothing happens. Clock works, but no headlights, instruments, fuel pump, etc. Battery is good. Pulled and reinstalled ignition module over the winter; bad connection. Getting no resistance on key ON. The female end of plug shows no circuit. Moved to the red/green plug near the battery. Green male side shows no resistance. Red female side shows no circuit. Ideas? Sorry, all fuses are good too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted March 29, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 29, 2014 main fuse? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfrAustin Posted March 29, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 29, 2014 Real knee jerk reaction to this but I am sure you checked the fuses, battery connections and checked that your grounds are fresh. The main ground to the frame on the right can oxidize. "Battery is good"? when was it good? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crewwolfy Posted March 29, 2014 Author Share Posted March 29, 2014 Yeah, fuses are all good. Battery was last used before winter, but was indoors on the trickle charger. Multimeter reads 12.7. Ground looks fine, but will continue to investigate there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFR4Lee Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 Battery was last used before winter, but was indoors on the trickle charger. I hear you guys had a harsh winter. Indoors house, or garage? Load test it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted March 29, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 29, 2014 another thing. CLEAN your fuses. .. dirty blades can and will impede current Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted March 29, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 29, 2014 One of the interlocks switches side stand or run\stop switch . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crewwolfy Posted March 29, 2014 Author Share Posted March 29, 2014 Unfortunately I can't perform a load test on the battery, as I can't get a load to it, and the local AutoZones don't perform such a test on motorcycle batteries. It was kept in the apartment. I don't believe the side stand or kill switches are an issue, as the dashboard would still light up in that case. The fuse connections looked good, but I'll pull them and clean anything that might need it. The fact that I get a no-resistance circuit at the ignition module, but nothing after, has me most concerned. Looks like the red/green plug connects to the starter, so I don't think that's an issue here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfrAustin Posted March 29, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 29, 2014 Can't stop thinking you missed a fuse that is out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer IntAceptor Posted March 29, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 29, 2014 Cat-O'-Straphic battery failure. I had it happen to me once. There is enough punch to work the clock but nothing else. It happens. In my case it happened in front of a Harley friend after just telling him I ride Asian because I don't trust Hogs. Needless to say, the embarrassment factor was through the roof but he helped me get a new battery so I could get home. I was 750 miles away at the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted March 29, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 29, 2014 I thinkin the key switch now, clean it with WD40 .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crewwolfy Posted March 29, 2014 Author Share Posted March 29, 2014 Thanks guys. I'll check the fuses again, then off for a new battery. Ah, missed page 2. Key switch looks good, getting a circuit when ON. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted March 29, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 29, 2014 Take a car battery and jump it, just dont start the car ..... It will tell you if its the battery .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crewwolfy Posted March 30, 2014 Author Share Posted March 30, 2014 Key switch is showing a complete circuit. Just checked fuses. All look good. Are there fuses not near the battery? Tried jumping from car (off), no change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted March 30, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 30, 2014 Not the battery .. The plot thickens ... Time to download the manual and start checking the relays .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer dalesvfr Posted March 30, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 30, 2014 You said you 'don't believe' the sidestand will make a difference - have you tried sitting on the bike with it up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 I'm on tapatalk so can't see what model your VFR is in your profile. If it's a 6th gen there are fuses up the front rhs of the bike. To the right of the instrument panel. Have to remove small fairing panel to access. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crewwolfy Posted March 30, 2014 Author Share Posted March 30, 2014 Sorry, 5th gen. The side stand switch was removed by previous owner. I'll take a look at the circuit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted March 30, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 30, 2014 the side stand would NOT stop the dash from lighting up. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crewwolfy Posted March 30, 2014 Author Share Posted March 30, 2014 So I'm seeing that all three of these circuits should complete with the key ON. How do I accurately test this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted March 30, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 30, 2014 do you have a test light/ probe ? clamp the neg post on the battery and start probing ! 1st the at the fuses.. as in getting power to the fuse.. have you check your GROUND wires yet?? i mean broken ground means no juice flowing.. pull your connections again.. are all the tangs straight? all the receivers in the right spot? nothing slipped or pushed out of the block? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MadScientist Posted March 30, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 30, 2014 Luckily for you, I have a very disassembled 5th gen in my garage atm. If you want to check the ignition switch, you will have to move the front upper fairing away from the dash board and surround. I have my dash and surround completely removed, but you do not need to go this far to access the connector. Look for a whitish natural nylon plug with 3 wires coming in as shown below: You will need to disconnect this connector and use a multimeter to probe the "blade" side of the connection. With the key in the off or locked position, there should be no continuity between any of the wires. I will PM you the information for the resistance between each of the pins as labelled below as this information can be very easily used to hotwire a vfr (not that it is difficult in any way, just don't want to publish where anyone can see it) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crewwolfy Posted March 30, 2014 Author Share Posted March 30, 2014 Ah. Thanks, Mad Scientist! I've removed and reinstalled the ignition module, so I'm intimately familiar with this connector. When the key is in the ON position, I'm getting low ohm continuity between two of the plugs. Perhaps one of the wires/connectors is in bad condition. I'll investigate. Considering this is the only change made since it last ran, I'm guessing this is the problem. I'll post my findings. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MadScientist Posted March 30, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 30, 2014 Ok, wasn't sure where you were in the circuit. The important wire is the red/black wire (IGN) from the switch. With a battery hooked up and the switch on, if you probe the hot side of the fuse box at the G, D, or C fuses, you should see batt voltage. There are no relays between the ignition switch and the fuse box. Edit - if you need me to measure continuity on anything to compare, let me know, I have access to nearly the whole harness right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crewwolfy Posted March 30, 2014 Author Share Posted March 30, 2014 Noted. I'll check this next. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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