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Is This Chain Dead? :)


Nas

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Hey everyone!

So my 6th gen VFR recently developed this noise when decelerating, being a noob in mechanics I turned to Google, and one of the first things to look at was the chain slack. Sure enough, my chain was quite a bit loose... Like hitting-the-center-stand loose :goofy:

I adjusted it so that it just touches the bottom of the swingarm, then as I was spinning the rear wheel I noticed there was this tight spot where the chain was getting so tight the wheel was quite difficult to turn by hand. I remembered I read somewhere the chain should be adjusted in a tight spot if there is one. So I readjusted it accordingly.

The bike itself is in good shape... the chain not so much.

IMAG0265.jpg

(I just had to show you that I do not abuse my bike, it's not in the same condition as the chain haha)

Now I have to warn you, the images are graphic. Hide your children! The chain has never seen any babying. In fact, it hasn't seen any cleaning products, period :D in its 34K+ km that's just over 21K miles. I never really cared about the chain looks. Plus good luck trying to keep it clean when you commute daily year round in Raincouver, British Columbia :D rain or shine or salted roads.

Lubing - yes, I was actually quite good with it until the last few months, not sure what happened. Time kind of ran away from me I guess. So the chain is of this wonderful orange colour now :goofy:

So anyway, looks like the chain is not at the replacement point yet according to the wear indicator (see photo). However, (see video below the photo) when I put the bike in 1st the chain is not rotating evenly. Is it because it is just rusty and basically ruined by now? I do not really mind replacing the chain and sprockets every three years / 20K+ miles, but do I need to replace it at this point? Or is it OK? Look at the axle nut cap @ 0:37 it's doing figure 8s :wacko:

Thank you for all the replies! Yes, even the ones giving me crap for doing this to the chain :beer:

IMAG0674.jpg

http://youtu.be/nT8ySBwhY_k

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Your axle nut is not doing a figure 8, the plastic cap in the hole is not inserted evenly.

With that chain slap I would not get in line with the chain again, you may lose more than a camera. :unsure:

New sprockets and chain. If you don't care about cost or rotational mass have your local Honda dealer do it with stock Honda parts. They sure seemed to last for you without maintenance.

The orange color you are seeing on the chain is the grease that packed between the O-rings to keep the pins lubed. Once you chain is worn out these O-rings no longer keep the grease inside.

I call it the red dust of death as the overheated grease now looks powdery.

If you want to do the chain and sprockets yourself, purchase a good quality X ring chain and have your local dealer pin the master link for you off the bike. Stock gearing is probably best as you commute on the bike.

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Take it to a shop or dealer, have them change your sprockets and chains, move on. If you really want, buy one of the chain sets linked above.

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Thanks for all the replies, folks! I guess new chain and sprockets it is ! Though I have to say the bike sure rides like new after the chain adjustment!

But yes, that chain slap is not looking good.

I have a couple of follow-up questions :wink:

1. So with regards to comments how the chain has been gone for a while. Am I completely misreading the wear indicator? According to this screenshot from the manual, my sprocket is not at the wear indicator mark yet, at least the way I understand this picture.

VFR%2520chain.JPG

2. Now if I do decide to keep the next chain clean, how do you do that? Any good products to give the chain a quick wipe before lubing?

3. From the DID chain/sprocket set description: Average life on a well maintained chain kit is 20-25K miles

Mine lasted 20K miles. So this means I had a well-maintained chain? :491::491::491: .

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1. So with regards to comments how the chain has been gone for a while. Am I completely misreading the wear indicator? According to this screenshot from the manual, my sprocket is not at the wear indicator mark yet, at least the way I understand this picture.

VFR%2520chain.JPG

2. Now if I do decide to keep the next chain clean, how do you do that? Any good products to give the chain a quick wipe before lubing?

3. From the DID chain/sprocket set description: Average life on a well maintained chain kit is 20-25K miles

Mine lasted 20K miles. So this means I had a well-maintained chain? :491::491::491: .

Maybe it is hard to tell from the angle of your picture, but it looks like yours has been worn out for a while. Draw a straight line down from the "Replace Chain" line. From your photo, it looks like the teeth are at least 1/4" or 3/8" to the right of that line. A good chain should have the sprocket teeth to the left of the line.

I get 18k-20k out of my chains normally with just lubing on occassion. I might actually clean it once during the life, but not regularly. Other have reported getting double that mileage with good maintenance. I got 40k out of the chain on my VTR, but it had a Scottoiler on it.

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This is where I bought my last few sets. I prefer the DID's over the RK's.

http://sprocketcenter.com/index.php/street-sprocket-applications/honda/vfr-800f-2002-2009/sprocket-chain-kits.html

Thanks for the link! The OEM size kit is $174.00 on that website, and I called a local stealership, they said $59 for the front sprocket, $115 for the rear, plus $203 for the chain :wacko: That's $374 plus 12% tax = $418.88 Holy crap.

I will definitely get it ordered from sprocketcenter.com instead.

Maybe it is hard to tell from the angle of your picture, but it looks like yours has been worn out for a while. Draw a straight line down from the "Replace Chain" line. From your photo, it looks like the teeth are at least 1/4" or 3/8" to the right of that line. A good chain should have the sprocket teeth to the left of the line.

I get 18k-20k out of my chains normally with just lubing on occassion. I might actually clean it once during the life, but not regularly. Other have reported getting double that mileage with good maintenance. I got 40k out of the chain on my VTR, but it had a Scottoiler on it.

LOL I am really an idiot. Now that I think about it, of course the indicator should be to the RIGHT of the sprocket teeth on a good chain!

Thanks for the explanation!

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This is where I bought my last few sets. I prefer the DID's over the RK's.

http://sprocketcenter.com/index.php/street-sprocket-applications/honda/vfr-800f-2002-2009/sprocket-chain-kits.html

Thanks for the link! The OEM size kit is $174.00 on that website, and I called a local stealership, they said $59 for the front sprocket, $115 for the rear, plus $203 for the chain :wacko: That's $374 plus 12% tax = $418.88 Holy crap.

I will definitely get it ordered from sprocketcenter.com instead.

Order the DID VX I think it is and not one of the other chain brands. It should be right around $200 or so. I also occasionally go with the RK but not with Sunstar or others...

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Keep in mind that a lot of riders prefer the OEM front sprocket because it's got rubber(like) dampening built in, where aftermarket ones are solid metal and seem to transmit more vibration.

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Keep in mind that a lot of riders prefer the OEM front sprocket because it's got rubber(like) dampening built in, where aftermarket ones are solid metal and seem to transmit more vibration.

True but I never noticed more vibration, just a little more noise from the front sprocket.

I can't really hear it over the gear driven cams and the Wolf exhaust. :cool:

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My last question is, should I park the bike until I replace the chain / sprockets?

The sprockets do not look mangled, and the bike feels fine when I ride it now that the chain has been adjusted. Though I think there is a bit of noise if I roll on the throttle suddenly, nothing if I'm smooth. I will park it if I have to, I wouldn't want to cause any further damage.

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If I had to ride it I would be judicious with my throttle hand. smooth on and off.

I have seen guys riding with sprocket teeth so worn you could hear the revs spike as the chain jumped around the rear sprocket but no forward motion...

the main concern for me for your chain is the tight spot that may fail unexpectedly.

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...

2. Now if I do decide to keep the next chain clean, how do you do that? Any good products to give the chain a quick wipe before lubing?

Just use kerosene just like the manual says... spray, wipe, pour, scrub, whatever you want... let it dry then apply chain lube. It is cheap, dissolves grime and oily stuff well, and it is the recommended solvent for use on o-ring chains.

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So I won't show a pic of my 30,000 mile chain that looks brand new. But I will say that WD-40 is better than kerosene. The kero leaves a crappy residue the WD doesn't. I know it's recommended by lots of manufacturers for lots of things as a great solvent but it pales in comparison to WD.

When I clean my chain with WD (every ride) and lube it with ATF it always looks clean and wet. When I used kerosene it looked dirty and dry. Strange but true.

I have 3 bikes with a combined 80K on their stock chains. Common ingredients...never ever chain lube...WD40 cleaner and ATF/gear oil. If I had to choose one the WD would be it as I think it is the secret to a long lived chain.

For the record the OEM RK chain on my 07 VFR is the best I have ever had. On the CS at idle you can't even hear it and not a single tight spot anywhere.

KEB

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Regina - OEM Chain and Sprocket Kits
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Chain threads are kinda like oil threads.

36K out of my last DID/Superlight set. Lubed warm with DuPont Teflon every 300 miles or so. Never cleaned with anything except WD40 on a rag occasionally. Chain saw quite a bit of rain, and dirt roads. Sometimes simultaniously.

At 36K the front 16T sprocket showed noticeable hooking. The 43T rear looked good for the mileage. The chain had a few stiff-ish links, but no missing rings or red dust. I adjusted the slack once in it's lifetime.

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I went out for a ride last winter when the streets were dry. In my haste to get on the road I forgot to check my chain (it was bone dry and stiff as a thick board I later found out). While accelerating briskly onto the freeway I suddenly found twisting the throttle did not produce the expected forward momentum. Managed to coast off the freeway and found my chain laying on the swingarm inside of the chain ring. I felt very lucky the rear wheel did not lock up. That could have been a bit messy.

Moral: never neglect your chain!

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My definition of a worn out chain is after the 3rd adjustment because that
is undeniable evidence that the factory installed grease is beginning to
fail to lube the critical pin roller junction hidden behind the X ring... the
length of the chain is growing because of this metal to metal wear... I can
not call a chain serviceable that is grinding metal... it's like saying that a
dry bearing that runs ruff is acceptable... the net result is another 2 to
3% drop in RWHP as more energy is lost grinding metal behind the X
ring...

After the 3rd adjustment happens at around the 8K mark the factory

grease thins out enough to begin metal to metal wear... you
may still claim the chain will last longer... but you may not claim there is
no the metal to metal wear going on... everytime you adjust the chain
you're in effect taking up slack caused by wear at the critical pin and
roller junction hidden behind the X ring... keep riding far enough and the
red oxides of harden metal exploded pass the X ring in the dreaded "Red
Dust"... but now you're guilty of chain abuse and possible breakage...

We don't have to guess about wear because Honda provided a handy
guide to monitor chain wear... stay with in the green and you'll be looking
for a new chain and sprockets at the 8 to 10K mile mark...

gallery_3131_51_39609.jpg

This is what we don't see behind the X rings... metal to metal wear
every time we adjust the chain that eats into our engine's available
HP... a new pin measures 206.5 and wears down to 205.5 at the 8K mile
mark... looks good to the naked eye but multiply that 1 thousand of an
inch times 108 links and you have 108 thousands of an inch wear or
about the range of the green marks provided by Honda's wear gauge...
202.8 show the very visible wear at the 12K mile mark... the pins are
turning red from extreme heat of grinding dry metal... a chain in this
condition may consume up to 6 to 8% of our RWHP... not to mention it
may snap into and cause case damage...

gallery_3131_51_50064.jpg


The orange color you are seeing on the chain is the grease that packed between the O-rings to keep the pins lubed. Once you chain is worn out these O-rings no longer keep the grease inside.

I call it the red dust of death as the overheated grease now looks powdery.

.

Negative... what you see is not grease rather the Red dust are iron
oxides of harden metal that are exploding violently pass the X
rings... the safety margin of strength built in the chain is expiring
with every turn of the wheel... what a rider risk is tossing the chain
which may crack the primary cover or worst yet foul the wheel and
cause an unwanted skid...


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Interesting take on the pin wear Larry.

I may purchase a less "robust" (read cheaper) X ring chain next time if I am to be changing it that frequently, a fat boy like me can't stand to lose 8% of my RWHP

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