Member Contributer CHUCK2 Posted October 4, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted October 4, 2013 Ok...If I understand correctly, it's recommended to put solder on these connectors...but why?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MBrane Posted October 4, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted October 4, 2013 Because it improves the electrical connection to ground which is the whole point of that connector. I would give it a good cleaning first, and make sure it's dry before soldering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer CHUCK2 Posted October 4, 2013 Author Member Contributer Share Posted October 4, 2013 Ok...How should I go about cleaning it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer ggathagan Posted October 4, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted October 4, 2013 Electronics cleaner, available in most Radio Shack stores: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102649&locale=en_US Avoid tuner cleaner, which leaves a lubricant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V4 Rosso Posted October 4, 2013 Share Posted October 4, 2013 it's recommended to put solder on these connectors...but why??It seals the connection, keeping moisture out and preventing corrosion. Put the soldering iron to the back of the connector and when the connector is heated enough put the soldering wire against the other side of the connector to get a perfect seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JZH Posted October 4, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted October 4, 2013 (Obviously, with the connector removed from that bolt!) Ciao, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MBrane Posted October 5, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted October 5, 2013 You're going to need a high-wattage iron or a torch. I used a propane torch myself. If you go that route work quickly. As soon as the solder flows into the wires get the heat off of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer CHUCK2 Posted October 5, 2013 Author Member Contributer Share Posted October 5, 2013 Well...I got it nice & shiny. Then I soldered. Big mistake I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer dawson Posted October 6, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted October 6, 2013 Could have used a bit more heat. Nice job cleaning it though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamworth Posted October 6, 2013 Share Posted October 6, 2013 Well...I got it nice & shiny. Then I soldered. Big mistake I think. It was in fact perfect before the solder. There's a very good reason why wires in any vehicle from a scooter to an F22 fighter jet are crimped to their connectors and NEVER soldered. Soldering creates a brittle stress point right where it ends on a wire. Also any flux in the solder is very bad to have anywhere near electrical connectors. A proper crimp is far superior and is far less likely to fail under vibrations. There's nothing you can do with that connector now, it has been impregnated with solder and flux and this will lead to corrosion. Most likely it won't cause any problems, do not try to heat it again. Internet information is unfortunately worth exactly what you pay for it. Do not solder important connections on a motorcycle. Crimping with the proper connectors and proper crimping tool is far superior. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer CHUCK2 Posted October 6, 2013 Author Member Contributer Share Posted October 6, 2013 Well now you tell me!! I had a feeling that I should not have soldered it. Now the wires don't look so good because of the heat. :unsure2: Apparently others feel differently. But I do appreciate all replies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MBrane Posted October 6, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted October 6, 2013 Well...I got it nice & shiny. Then I soldered. Big mistake I think. IMG_4555.JPG IMG_4583.JPG You didn't tell us you couldn't solder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V4 Rosso Posted October 6, 2013 Share Posted October 6, 2013 There's a very good reason why wires in any vehicle from a scooter to an F22 fighter jet are crimped to their connectors and NEVER soldered.The wire is stil crimped to the connector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Texfoto Posted October 6, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted October 6, 2013 It was in fact perfect before the solder. There's a very good reason why wires in any vehicle from a scooter to an F22 fighter jet are crimped to their connectors and NEVER soldered. Soldering creates a brittle stress point right where it ends on a wire. Also any flux in the solder is very bad to have anywhere near electrical connectors. A proper crimp is far superior and is far less likely to fail under vibrations. There's nothing you can do with that connector now, it has been impregnated with solder and flux and this will lead to corrosion. Most likely it won't cause any problems, do not try to heat it again. Internet information is unfortunately worth exactly what you pay for it. Do not solder important connections on a motorcycle. Crimping with the proper connectors and proper crimping tool is far superior. I'm glad someone finally said it. Soldering is done on circuit boards for a reason. They don't flex. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFRocker Posted October 6, 2013 Share Posted October 6, 2013 Just a suggestion, before you try any more electrical updates, especially soldering, practice on some spare wire the same gauge you'll be using. That will give you an idea about how much heat and time it will take to get the wire and connectors hot enough so the solder will flow nicely into the connection. A mini butane torch works well for most wire-connector jobs but you still have to be careful not to overheat or you melt the wire insulation. You'll get better the more you practice and with the VFR electrical system that can be an ongoing process. I would suggest the Wiring upgrades available ,"wiremybike" has one. You might be able to clean up that solder job with either a mini butane torch or high wattage quick heating electric gun. You could also get new connectors and recrimp if you have enough wire, I wouldn't solder that ground, cleaned up and bolted back on is the way to go. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer CHUCK2 Posted October 6, 2013 Author Member Contributer Share Posted October 6, 2013 Well...I got it nice & shiny. Then I soldered. Big mistake I think. IMG_4555.JPG IMG_4583.JPG You didn't tell us you couldn't solder. Ya...I did fail to mention that one minute detail!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer CHUCK2 Posted October 6, 2013 Author Member Contributer Share Posted October 6, 2013 Thanks, Mike for the great suggestions. I do need to practice if I will be doing more soldering. Not sure why but the solder kept beading up & rolling off the connector at first. Maybe the iron I borrowed did not provide enough heat. I guess I should get a torch. The insulation did melt some & now the wires don't look so good. I sure wish I would have stopped messing with it after cleaning it. There is not enough wire to re-do it. Especially since I probably wouldn't get it right the first time. I'll check out Joshua's site. Maybe he has a way I can do something with the yellow wires. It'll bug the heck out of me to leave them as is knowing they're getting hot. Thanks again everyone for your input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bad Boy Posted October 6, 2013 Share Posted October 6, 2013 No harm done really, just looks ugly, excess solder is stuck to the connector, the wire and crimp are still good. The proper technique for soldering is to use the soldering iron to heat the wiring hot enough so the wiring will melt the solder. Then the solder will flow into the wire and connector. Very little solder is used. If you use the solder iron to melt the solder and the wiring stays below the melting temperature of the solder then the solder will not penetrate and pile up like in your picture. You can wrap the wire insulation with wet paper towel. For wiring this size a small pen sized electronics soldering iron does not provide heat fast enough to do a good job. Larger iron or torch heat up wiring quickly. I like to do both crimp and then lightly solder the crimp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted October 6, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted October 6, 2013 Thanks, Mike for the great suggestions. I do need to practice if I will be doing more soldering. Not sure why but the solder kept beading up & rolling off the connector at first. Maybe the iron I borrowed did not provide enough heat. I guess I should get a torch. The insulation did melt some & now the wires don't look so good. I sure wish I would have stopped messing with it after cleaning it. There is not enough wire to re-do it. Especially since I probably wouldn't get it right the first time. I'll check out Joshua's site. Maybe he has a way I can do something with the yellow wires. It'll bug the heck out of me to leave them as is knowing they're getting hot. Thanks again everyone for your input. I suck at soldering, just like you. Dont freak, because I'm glad somebody finally brought it up. A good crimp is a better joint. The automotive industry uses it near everywere and MIL Specs require it. Swear off soldering and next wire job, purchase the proper crimp tool for the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFR4Lee Posted October 6, 2013 Share Posted October 6, 2013 Swear off soldering and next wire job, purchase the proper crimp tool for the job. It's easier than soldering too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfrurknee Posted October 7, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted October 7, 2013 Chuck, You were misinformed from the beginning but no great harm is done. I would suggest that unless you can remove some of that solder glob try using a star washer under the terminal to maintain a good ground. Don't install it on the topside where the solder buildup is because when you tighten the connection the solder will spread out and migrate away from the pressure points. Suggest you get some solder wick, looks like braided copper about 1/8" wide. Heat it on top of the solder and if your iron is of high enough wattage the wick will do as its name implies and draw up the excess. You can probably get it at a Radio Shack and I would also recommend from the same source a butane soldering iron. They are cordless and their wattage can be controlled by the tip size you can interchange. The side of the torch can also be used to shrink heat-shrink tubing. Might pick up a package of that stuff, too. It can be very handy. Good luck with it, however you decide to tackle it. Like others have already mentioned, you were good to go after the terminal cleaning! Ernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted October 7, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted October 7, 2013 Maybe he has a way I can do something with the yellow wires. It'll bug the heck out of me to leave them as is knowing they're getting hot. Thanks again everyone for your input. First of all - a request. Could you just go to Arial font like everbody else? --- Been reading your threads, and with the OEM R/R and good stator. And you said you have a voltmeter up front to watch the system as you ride. Also caught your bike has 14k miles on it. -- Low, low mileage. So -- for the moment -- - its not broke, just clean the stator connector, be done with it and just ride it! When the R/R finally does its thing, with you will know in advance by your voltmeter, then worry about fixing what needs to be fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer CHUCK2 Posted October 7, 2013 Author Member Contributer Share Posted October 7, 2013 Chuck, You were misinformed from the beginning but no great harm is done. I would suggest that unless you can remove some of that solder glob try using a star washer under the terminal to maintain a good ground. Don't install it on the topside where the solder buildup is because when you tighten the connection the solder will spread out and migrate away from the pressure points. Suggest you get some solder wick, looks like braided copper about 1/8" wide. Heat it on top of the solder and if your iron is of high enough wattage the wick will do as its name implies and draw up the excess. You can probably get it at a Radio Shack and I would also recommend from the same source a butane soldering iron. They are cordless and their wattage can be controlled by the tip size you can interchange. The side of the torch can also be used to shrink heat-shrink tubing. Might pick up a package of that stuff, too. It can be very handy. Good luck with it, however you decide to tackle it. Like others have already mentioned, you were good to go after the terminal cleaning! Ernie Thanks, Ernie. The terminal does still mount nice & flat just like before I made a mess of it. So, maybe the star washer isn't needed? Perhaps I'm wrong but I think that I should just leave it alone at this point. I'd probably end up making it worse somehow. Maybe he has a way I can do something with the yellow wires. It'll bug the heck out of me to leave them as is knowing they're getting hot. Thanks again everyone for your input. First of all - a request. Could you just go to Arial font like everbody else? --- Been reading your threads, and with the OEM R/R and good stator. And you said you have a voltmeter up front to watch the system as you ride. Also caught your bike has 14k miles on it. -- Low, low mileage. So -- for the moment -- - its not broke, just clean the stator connector, be done with it and just ride it! When the R/R finally does its thing, with you will know in advance by your voltmeter, then worry about fixing what needs to be fixed. LOL...Ok Arial it is, mello dude! I'm still going to use Bold though. Thought Comic Sans MS made it more interesting somehow. Sounds like more sound advice though. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFR4Lee Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 Let's all go ride and not worry about what fonts someone uses. OK, I guess arial is kind of a standard. I use it for work. Wonder what would they say if I switched to New Times Roman or something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted October 7, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted October 7, 2013 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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