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cleaning aluminum/magnesium parts


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I am trying to clean the front brake brake caliper mounts, they are aluminum or magnesium.. I cant tell if they have a coating on them, it doesnt seem so. They have black on them that I have tried degreaser, never dull, white viniger, steel wool .. nothing seems to touch this stuff.

I am sure a bead blaster will but that is a few months down the road if at all this year.

Any suggestions?

post-19783-0-88514400-1298324051_thumb.j

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On the SSSA, I use the same spray that I use when I clean the chain. This stuff:

http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?L1=&L2=&L3=&L4=&item=TUC_98-0075_G

No other cleaner came close to getting some of that crud off, but this stuff blasted it away with no elbow grease required.

Mike

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That piece is aluminum, and the black stuff is brake dust. A glass bead blaster would clean it in a jiff - but if that's not an option, then you might try gasoline and a stainless wire brush.

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A aerosol can of brake cleaner will clean brake dust. That's what it was invented for.

I invite you to try both. I guarantee you, that with old caked on dust, you'll have better luck removing the dust with a petroleum based product vs mineral spirits.

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I know its frustrating to find just the right stuff for a paticular job, I have several type of clean it stuff on the shelf myself.

For your job I would try this - S100 tarnish remover + the polishing soap

http://www.s100.com/s100_fr.htm

I have found it to be a great crud remover on aluminum -- most times.

>>> Of course the "F - it" fall back is to grab some 1100 grit finish paper and go to town, even through its a lot more work.

Good luck

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Be sure to use a brush that is softer than the work piece so it doesn't scratch. I have a brass brush and some stiff nylon brushes for this type of thing. On some nylon brushes I have cut the bristles to about 1/2 length to make them more aggressive on difficult situations.

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A aerosol can of brake cleaner will clean brake dust. That's what it was invented for.

I invite you to try both. I guarantee you, that with old caked on dust, you'll have better luck removing the dust with a petroleum based product vs mineral spirits.

I already have, and I find brake cleaner has worked pretty well combined with an old tooth brush for over 3 decades. But, not all brake cleaners are equal.

Personally, I only buy the Auto Zone brand stuff, as Chemtool and others never work as well.

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i'll try some gas and a brush first.. Cheaper.

Thanks for all the ideas...

There are more friggingh cleaners out there claining to work and a lot of them dont...

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I invite you to try both. I guarantee you, that with old caked on dust, you'll have better luck removing the dust with a petroleum based product vs mineral spirits.

mineral spirits are petroleum based :fing02:

saw it on the discovery channel .

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On the SSSA, I use the same spray that I use when I clean the chain. This stuff:

http://www.cyclegear...m=TUC_98-0075_G

No other cleaner came close to getting some of that crud off, but this stuff blasted it away with no elbow grease required.

Mike

I just tried a can of that last night and it really works. It cleans better than brake cleaner or carb/choke cleaner and doesn't have a harsh odor.

mtx_chain_clean_611_MD.jpg

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Like your part the gold calipers on my RC30 was caked with black brake dust... I got it clean again with a 3M gray mirco fine pad and a trimmed acid brush with the help of mineral spirits...

gallery_3131_51_80522.jpg

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Like your part the gold calipers on my RC30 was caked with black brake dust... I got it clean again with a 3M gray mirco fine pad and a trimmed acid brush with the help of mineral spirits...

gallery_3131_51_80522.jpg

Nice...that is the clean I am looking for.

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A aerosol can of brake cleaner will clean brake dust. That's what it was invented for.

I invite you to try both. I guarantee you, that with old caked on dust, you'll have better luck removing the dust with a petroleum based product vs mineral spirits.

I already have, and I find brake cleaner has worked pretty well combined with an old tooth brush for over 3 decades. But, not all brake cleaners are equal.

Personally, I only buy the Auto Zone brand stuff, as Chemtool and others never work as well.

Doesn't matter what brand it is, it all flashes off too quickly. They're all fine for general cleaning and maintenance, but since we're talking about crud that hasn't been cleaned in 20 years, you need to get a little tougher. On the dozens of brake related parts I've restored, brake cleaner (even with a brush) has never brought a part completely clean on its own. Maybe our individual definitions of "clean" don't equate?? My standard is "looks like new"... :comp13:

Some brands work better than others, because some are chlorinated & some aren't. The chlorinated stuff is more aggressive(good luck finding it, btw). Read the can before you buy... Most of these brake cleaners are a mix of half a dozen or more solvents - including pet based and alcohol. Gasoline is more aggressive than kerosene, and doens dry off in seconds after you shoot it so you actually have time to scrub the damn thing!

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Maybe our individual definitions of "clean" don't equate?? My standard is "looks like new"... :comp13:

I can attest to Seb's 'clean' ideal. He had me polish my nuts (sprocket nuts) last year when we did my sprocket and chain swap.

I just cleaned my rear caliper (11 years of crud) with a stiff nylon brush and various stages of WD40, kerosene and brake cleaner.

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How about the alloy wheel cleaners? I don't know if they work on old dust but with alloy wheels even very black from brake dust, it works without rubbing. Just spray, wait for 15 mins and spray with water. You can help the affect with a brush while it does not dry too fast to affect the dust.

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A aerosol can of brake cleaner will clean brake dust. That's what it was invented for.

I invite you to try both. I guarantee you, that with old caked on dust, you'll have better luck removing the dust with a petroleum based product vs mineral spirits.

I already have, and I find brake cleaner has worked pretty well combined with an old tooth brush for over 3 decades. But, not all brake cleaners are equal.

Personally, I only buy the Auto Zone brand stuff, as Chemtool and others never work as well.

Doesn't matter what brand it is, it all flashes off too quickly. They're all fine for general cleaning and maintenance, but since we're talking about crud that hasn't been cleaned in 20 years, you need to get a little tougher. On the dozens of brake related parts I've restored, brake cleaner (even with a brush) has never brought a part completely clean on its own. Maybe our individual definitions of "clean" don't equate?? My standard is "looks like new"... :comp13:

Some brands work better than others, because some are chlorinated & some aren't. The chlorinated stuff is more aggressive(good luck finding it, btw). Read the can before you buy... Most of these brake cleaners are a mix of half a dozen or more solvents - including pet based and alcohol. Gasoline is more aggressive than kerosene, and doens dry off in seconds after you shoot it so you actually have time to scrub the damn thing!

WTF?

You just like to argue and think that you are the only one that is right all the time?

I don't know what your problem is with my suggestion about using a product that is designed for the application. You jump all over me and my suggestion like I am wrong and you have the ONLY answer.

THEN, you go and INSULT me by suggesting I don't keep my motorcycles and cars as clean as you do, like YOU are THE authority on clean! There are a few members here that can attest to just how clean my bikes and cars are.

You are not the only talented one here on this board, I can assure you.

I made a suggestion of using a product DESIGNED for cleaning what the OP wanted to clean. You could have made a similar suggestion and not quoted me or put me down, and all would have been cool. But no, you seem to want to hound me and my suggestion, trying to cut me down.

Whatever your problem is, enough already.

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For really stubborn crud, I have found that oven cleaner works very well. Downside, it will discolor the metal if you leave it on too long. I use a stiff toothbrush, spray the oven cleaner on the brush and scrub briefly, rinse with water. It takes some time, but works when nothing else will. Finish up by scrubbing thoroughly with warm water and dish soap.

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WTF?

You just like to argue and think that you are the only one that is right all the time?

I don't know what your problem is with my suggestion about using a product that is designed for the application. You jump all over me and my suggestion like I am wrong and you have the ONLY answer.

THEN, you go and INSULT me by suggesting I don't keep my motorcycles and cars as clean as you do, like YOU are THE authority on clean! There are a few members here that can attest to just how clean my bikes and cars are.

You are not the only talented one here on this board, I can assure you.

I made a suggestion of using a product DESIGNED for cleaning what the OP wanted to clean. You could have made a similar suggestion and not quoted me or put me down, and all would have been cool. But no, you seem to want to hound me and my suggestion, trying to cut me down.

Whatever your problem is, enough already.

Care to take this offline via PM? I think you've got quite the overreaction going on. Was not looking to insult you!

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I usually have good luck with S100 on just about anything. If that doesn't do the trick, I reach for some sea-foam.

I've not tried this, but it isn't terribly expensive or risky. Might be worth a shot on brake/road crud too: Pine Sol degreaser thread

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What about a poor man's bead blaster.... DIY Soda Blaster.

Although I've never tried it, a friend of mine claims that it works great for carbs. Might not be strong enough for caked on brake dust.

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Maybe our individual definitions of "clean" don't equate?? My standard is "looks like new"... :comp13:

I can attest to Seb's 'clean' ideal. He had me polish my nuts (sprocket nuts) last year when we did my sprocket and chain swap.

I just cleaned my rear caliper (11 years of crud) with a stiff nylon brush and various stages of WD40, kerosene and brake cleaner.

I actually spent a lot of time when I was younger polishing my nuts......

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Maybe our individual definitions of "clean" don't equate?? My standard is "looks like new"... :comp13:

I can attest to Seb's 'clean' ideal. He had me polish my nuts (sprocket nuts) last year when we did my sprocket and chain swap.

I just cleaned my rear caliper (11 years of crud) with a stiff nylon brush and various stages of WD40, kerosene and brake cleaner.

I actually spent a lot of time when I was younger polishing my nuts......

:laughing6-hehe:

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