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Repainting my bike


HispanicSlammer

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Really thinking of a dedumbo job too, welding in some flat pieces where the dumbo ears go and cutting in some flush mount led blinkers

I've got a set of non-led oval flush mount blinkers in my toolbox, perfect for the job. PM me if you want them, gratis - I won't even let you pay the shipping.

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Really thinking of a dedumbo job too, welding in some flat pieces where the dumbo ears go and cutting in some flush mount led blinkers

I've got a set of non-led oval flush mount blinkers in my toolbox, perfect for the job. PM me if you want them, gratis - I won't even let you pay the shipping.

I have some hardbody LED units I bought for a coworkers cbr1000 - he bought two sets thinking they only came one a piece and so I have his extra set.

post-491-126618956346_thumb.jpg

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I had my Zephyr done in Mustang Laser Red by an auto shop a long while back, and it has held up really well. I can't comment on cost, what with the time and country differences, but it was worth it.

Glenn

... Is it possible to get anywhere near the finish you find on stock paint, in custom colors? Would I get a good quality finish if I took the bodywork off and dropped it off at an auto body shop to have it professionally sprayed? And if I had it professionally done, say I chose something simple, like the tangerine bike up thread, how much should I expect to spend?

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Well I did a lot of work in the last 6 hours, mostly working on the plastics, sanding and smoothing, fabing up dumbo insterts and such for the turn signalsgallery_491_4444_221682.jpg

Black ABS Glue To fill scratches disolved abs glue dries hard as a coat of abs plastic

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Plastic welded on a new tab shaped with a dremel and then drilled to fit the holding pin, then abs glue to reinforce the back

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Sanded the scratches removed the scratched up vfr graphic and filled the deep scratches with abs plastic glue

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sanded scratches smooth filled a deeper hole with abs glue let dry overnight till hard

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Oatey ABS Glue I used some thick black abs glue to fill the holes and scratches, stuff just dries on solid sort of like epoxy body filler but its actually abs plastic dissolved in solvent. Some glues are just the solvent some like this brand are abs disolved in solvent when it dries it leaves a fresh coat of abs glue which can fill holes and be shaped and sanded smooth.

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makeing a template out of cardboard using the old front cowl to make an abs plate to fill he hole

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cut new plates out of the old front cowl using my drill press and a round sand drum to shape to the correct form.

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Drilled mounting holes Counter sunk to form around a set of hardbodies LED turn signals

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Plastic welding in the dumbo plates abs glue on the back and later on the front to fill holes, then sanding it all smooth tomorrow after it dries

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Mocked up the turn signals to get a feel for how it will look when done.

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Looks good so far Miguel, may I suggest reinforcing the backside with some cloth of some sort?

I've heard of folks using Fiberglass cloth soaked in ABS cement, and apparently that works (though I haven't tried it), but there must be some sort of product meant for that??

Maybe some of the experienced bodyworkers will chime in......

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Looks good so far Miguel, may I suggest reinforcing the backside with some cloth of some sort?

I've heard of folks using Fiberglass cloth soaked in ABS cement, and apparently that works (though I haven't tried it), but there must be some sort of product meant for that??

Maybe some of the experienced bodyworkers will chime in......

Rob, the dumbo section has a backing lip that it sets inside, nice and flush, I sanded the paint off both the plate and cowl and glued it in, then as you can see went back in and welded the crack, along with that I gooped more abs glue on the front to fill in places where I did not fill. Its in really solid, as it is, I might have some fiberglass cloth somwhere I will look into it. I will probably plastic weld in a bead also on the backside tomorrow after the abs glue has all dried.

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OK, I would just hate to see it all finished and shiny, then after some time/vibrations and miles, have the joint where the "fish" is glued in start to crack out on you.

sad.gif

LINKAGE: http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=171&Itemid=11

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Not fiberglass cloth - you want the mesh sheetrock tape, yes the stuff you use on drywall. That works well with glue, or use fine stainless steel mesh with your plastic welder.

It is important to note that I am using ABS rods to weld in the dumbo plates and glued it with abs plastic glue, the kind im using is simply black abs resin disolved in acetone and Methyl Ethyl Ketone, so its all the same stuff once the solvents evaporate and it dries as solid abs. Rob the repair done on that bike used an epoxy that dried harder and more brittle than the surrounding abs, mixing media can have bad consequences, I am using nothing but abs here. I removed the paint where I glued it together and also where I welded it in.

http://www.oatey.com/apps/catalog/instance_assets/assets/MSDS_Sheet/1300E_tmpl_us_e3_OUT.pdf

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It's also important to note that the body panels on the VFR are not made strictly from ABS plastic; Honda actually uses different plastic formulations for different panels, which is why I only use Fiber Flex sticks with my plastic welder, and Norton Speed Grip for other repairs.

Fiber Flex: http://www.urethanesupply.com/storefiberflex.php

Speed Grip: http://www.nortonautomotive.com/speedgrip-auto.aspx

It's also important to clean the two areas being welded with rubbing alcohol before welding.

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When I welded a square piece of abs I cut from the front cowl to repair the rear cowl tab I tugged in it pretty good to see it would come loose, I am pretty satisfied with the weld, I later gooped on abs glue for more reinforcement, then cut and shapped the tab to fit and then drilled it for the pin hole.

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Rear cowl holes now filled in and sanded smooth

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Right Fairing scratches filled in I went to town with the orbital sander and smoothed out the abs glue I gooped into the scratches which were now all filled in nicely

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Front cowl right side I had to go in and fill another hole with the the plastic welder then sanded it all smooth

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reinforced the back layed in another bead of abs weld rod

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left side reinforced

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filling in a large gap I noticed the signal on the left side had a significant gap where the dremel got away from me, I filled in the gaps with abs glue and I am going cut the lens out with a utility knife and then pop it out. I sprayed the signal with Pam to keep the abs glue from sticking to it - sanding it smooth tommorow - it should pop right out.

I let it dry for about 2 hours now and the abs glue is gotten pretty hard, I was able to peel it off the signal lens. I will wait till tommorow to see about removing it and hopefully it forms a nice lip around where the lens is. I will smooth it out and sand it flat then. I will have to give it a strait gap so that the paint does not prevent it from fitting inside, either that or I will just tape off the indented area and not paint it. Not sure we will see how it comes out tommorow. I am removing my ohlins tommorow and putting in a piece of wood where the shock goes so I can send it for rebuild. Then I am taking a trip to the powder coaters to get my new wheels done! Gotta take off the tires and remove the brake disc and bearings though, remove the valve stem anyway since I want to replace them with 90 degree stems.

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Are you also filling the access hole underneath the headlight for the European daytime running light?

I had that done on my upper, before the crash. Will probably have it done again for the new paintjob.

HMM... had not thought of it? I bought a replacement panel for it, since the orginal one is somewhere in the bushes on the Black Canyon.

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It's also important to note that the body panels on the VFR are not made strictly from ABS plastic; Honda actually uses different plastic formulations for different panels, which is why I only use Fiber Flex sticks with my plastic welder, and Norton Speed Grip for other repairs.

Fiber Flex: http://www.urethanesupply.com/storefiberflex.php

Speed Grip: http://www.nortonautomotive.com/speedgrip-auto.aspx

It's also important to clean the two areas being welded with rubbing alcohol before welding.

Yes but after sanding on it for the last 2 days I am certain its the same abs, the glue sticks to it and nothing else I sanded it like hell and it would not come off, no flaking off at all, its the same composition as the abs glue. The dumbo insert I pushed on it and proded it seeing how well the glue and weld job did, its really solid! I tried prying some of the white weld out with a screw driver and its in there really good. It would take another crash at 50mph for it to break or a tip over with the bike on it. Radars sliders should help prevent that.

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easy......

bike_normal.jpg

Yes, this is the way I will go when its time to paint my 5th gen... whit some small detail differense thro..

One of the best looking 5th gen I know :fing02:

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Here is someone else's 5th gen done to look like an SP2 (photo courtesy of Sebspeed):

nicepaint.jpg

How abouth this but red instead of white and a white wing and wheels?

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HS, don't know how much more you plan to prep on your own, but if you want to do the sealing & priming, do yourself a favor and use the good stuff - SEM products. These are professional products in a rattlecan, I've seen various cheaper brands that just flake off, or worse yet, dissolve under the new paint and bubble up/destroy a new paint job! :fing02: Look for the stuff at an autobody supply store, autobody shop, or any good auto parts store(NAPA carries it here in my area).

This stuff: http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/sem-high-build-primer-surfacer-aerosols-p-15358.aspx

No, it's not cheap, but this is one of those times where you have to tell yourself, "gotta pay to play". Some body shops won't touch your stuff if you've done the prep & primer, or best case, will refuse any guarantee on the paint. On the other hand, if you walk in and show them the can of SEM you used, they will be much more willing to work with you. I've been there/ done that many times, on both sides of the fence(working in a shop/bringing my parts in for paint).

I'm pretty sure all the panels have the plastic type molded in somewhere, will look like a bunch of random letters and symbols like 1234 > PP or summat.

EDIT: Before you get to that point, you'll want to use some of this(after a good alcohol wash) to get your inconsistencies and sanding scratches leveled out: http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/usc-icing-polyester-finishing-putty-p-10969.aspx

Good stuff, leagues above Bondo. Easy to work with and sands to a very nice feather edge. Sorry if I'm rambling on & on about do this, do that, just trying to help. I can talk you through 99% of this work so if you get hung up or have a feeling there might be a better way, get in touch.

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I already have the paint, I am using a catalized primer and paint combo specifically made for painting plastics, lots of solids and my gravity fed hvlp gun. 2 coats of primer, 2 coats of base, tape off for the stipes and then clear coats. This is not a rattle can paint job! Problem is its way too cold to spray - shoot even the paint stripper I got for the tank wont work at these temps. I am going to use my bike shed for a spray booth, its perfect for it it opens up in the front and back for lots of air, just wash it all down with my power sprayer then hang some plastic drop cloths, make a place for a fan and filter on the front and back door and go to town. Just doing plastic repairs now. I spent a good couple of hours last night on it, then shifted gears and removed my ohlins shock to send out for a rebuild. Man that thing was filthy!

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I am taking my time on this project, I got a good 3 months before it gets warm enough to spray. I am gonna have the sanding smoothed out, I spent alot on the paint and primer, reducers and catalyst. All I can say it will look much better than it did before I got started. Much better than it did at tmac 09!

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I already have the paint, I am using a catalized primer and paint combo specifically made for painting plastics, lots of solids and my gravity fed hvlp gun. 2 coats of primer, 2 coats of base, tape off for the stipes and then clear coats. This is not a rattle can paint job! Problem is its way too cold to spray - shoot even the paint stripper I got for the tank wont work at these temps. I am going to use my bike shed for a spray booth, its perfect for it it opens up in the front and back for lots of air, just wash it all down with my power sprayer then hang some plastic drop cloths, make a place for a fan and filter on the front and back door and go to town. Just doing plastic repairs now. I spent a good couple of hours last night on it, then shifted gears and removed my ohlins shock to send out for a rebuild. Man that thing was filthy!

In case there was any confusion - I wasn't implying or expecting you to spray color or clear with a spray can. Just trying to help by recommending products that I know work well - not just from my own experience, but from working hand-in-hand with pros who have 20-30 years experience on the job.

Looking forward to seeing your bike all pretty!

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