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pres589

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Everything posted by pres589

  1. What kind of goofy website is that?? The kind cyber squatters put up. What you want is probably here; http://www.wpracingusa.com/
  2. Movie was pretty cool, thanks for showing your work, seeing more of the front end exposed without plastic in the way makes me wonder again about the changes required to strip an RC46 down and transform it into a naked bike. If it wasn't for the cooling system... I had wondered what the area behind the headlights looked like but the video makes it seem pretty easy to deal with that and hang a headlamp from the forks. But that cooling system would take a lot of very creative work to make visually clean.
  3. pres589

    IMG 0175

    That place really is a nice dealership, used to work a mile from there, good pricing and fun to walk through to the parts department.
  4. U-joint between filter socket and ratchet extension helps a lot. So did cutting the center of the v-fairing out with a Dremel and a grinding tool. I did that only after cracking part of the V-fairing when tugging on it trying to get a filter in and out. I do my own changes and I always got my hand nicked up on the flashing at the edges of the fairing trying to do this without removing body work. It's made changing the oil a lot easier.
  5. Are you sure it isn't a hydraulic chain adjuster for the cam chain? A lifter tick would be a scary thing since wear would cause the clearance to shrink, not grow, so they 'tighten up' with mileage. Noise from the chain adjusters, aka CCT's, is common on Honda motorcycle from the beginning of their use to today.
  6. If the engine was properly fueled there wouldn't be a lean miss, which requires more throttle to make the same power. Cut out some wrist twist, get mileage back. I'd believe in the lean running thing if this engine actually liked to run that way, and it obviously doesn't.
  7. Just curious - how would this be an improvement over the PCV and AutoTune modules he already has fitted? Seems like he has complete control over A/F ratio and fueling, except for a few anomalies here and there. PCV cannot, I believe, remove fuel. You're still working off of the factory map, just adding pulse width where it seems best. PCV is not a bad system but it's a rung below a full ECU, which a Megasquirt or Microsquirt is. Like a Micro can drive ignition parts as well as injectors, control fans, etc. It is somewhat limited as far as how many injector drivers it brings to the party but as long as your intake trumpets are synced and the injectors are all at flowing "the same" then it shouldn't be an issue. What makes me think going to a 'squirt would be better than a PCV is how every story of PCIII or V install reduced fuel economy to get a bike to run right. It shouldn't be that way. I believe best mileage and performance would be found with a fully tune-able system like a 'squirt. I've yet to install one though so big grain of salt here. But if I were going to the effort of swapping harnesses and ECU's, I'd replace it with something that would let me actually tune the thing, otherwise I'd go PCV and possibly the autotune.
  8. What about a de-pin job on the cable assembly side ECU connector, the plug, and re-pin into a connector appropriate for the 2006+ ECU? I don't know what kind of tooling would be best to do that but it seems about 100x easier than what you're talking about doing. Or if you want to go to the extreme of modding basically the entire electrical system on the bike, why not look into a Microsquirt working in tandem with the factory ECU? This assumes one thing, that the factory ignition is well set up and the tractability problems are on the fuel side, but if you want to take that bet, it should be pretty easy to get a 'squirt going running off of tach signal from a coil on the bike. What happens then? Easy integration of a wide band O2 sensor with the microsquirt for real time data logging (you'll want something like a netbook running in a piece of luggage) and building of a fuel map for your bike. You wouldn't have gear to gear differences in mapping but I don't think it would be missed. The factory ECU could deal with sensors like the ignition and running the fans and such (or with a relay you could control one with the 'squirt, which seems like a great idea) and all that other less interesting stuff as well as the VTEC nonsense. I just don't see much gain in this with the 2006+ ECU. My 2 cents and I know of no one that's done the MS route and I've been talking about it for a couple years and gone nowhere with it.
  9. The Microsquirt variant of the Megasquirt would make much more sense. Part of the problem is making sure the breaker wheel signals from things like the crankshaft position sensor need to be supported; the VTR1000 has been successfully Microsquirted so perhaps the VFR800 would be a drop-in, but maybe not. A winter in a heated garage and, say, a thousand US dollars to spend on test equipment and a Microsquirt and all the cabling/connectors could probably see it done the first time by someone knowledgeable, and I've considered diving into it but I never seem to have space or funding.
  10. After market exhaust & rapidbike module. I seem to have missed a memo; what's the Rapid Bike module like to deal with? I've pulled up some info on the thing via Google, is this thing easier or harder to deal with vs. the Power Commander? Besides a lower price, why would I or wouldn't I want a Rapdi Bike module?
  11. My 6th just turned over 25k and I'm going to replace the fuel filter this spring, it's original and I'm noticing an increase in midrange lean-surge. It may also be the amazing "gasoline" available here in Denver... it's enough to make me consider shipping in 55 gallon drums of gasoline from KS, but that's another rant for another time. In any case, I'm going to start treating this is a every 3 years or ~24k mile item from now on, and will do it during the yearly coolant/brake/clutch fluids swap in the spring I guess. This time I got from ATE Super Blue to ATE Type 200, no more smurf juice looking at me through the sight glasses, and Honda Coolant with a tablespoon of Redline Water Wetter. I love maintenance!
  12. Can you give us some more information? Budget, what do you find lacking currently, etc? How tall are you? What are you hoping to do with the bike, what kind of riding do you normally do? The stock seat seems to suit no one, after that it just depends. I'm considering a number of changes to my bike but I'm somewhat budget limited, I think this is going to be the year of improved fueling and then more riding gear for myself, perhaps luggage as well, just have to see how the finances roll for 2010. But I don't know what you're looking for so not sure what to tell you.
  13. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250471542055&viewitem= Something like that, yeah. I'm a little surprised more people on here haven't gone after a set for a Civic or similar and divided them up into 4 sets to split the cost. I don't know this specific brand or anything, it's just an example. I think RAYS sells them as well.
  14. Has BLS made an appearance in this thread yet? Maybe we should get these two together, get a little contract engineering work started. Between all the posts it looks like 50 to 60 lbs could be saved before things just get painfully expensive. Where would I say painfully expensive starts? When the cost of a new VFR has been invested in his new VFR. So, whatever could be done for 10 grand. Glad it's not my money... And I haven't seen anything pessimistic or overly negative here yet. Actually a lot of really great suggestions have come up so far and I bet there are more to come. Here's a couple more; If you keep the stock swingarm, Civic lugnuts work. Meaning, titanium lugnuts meant for a Civic work. You'll still be better off trying to get a different swingarm mounted if you care about weight as much as you seem to, but if you stick with stock, here you go. The stock headlight assembly is kind of weighty, maybe look there, go to a single lamp and a dummy or something, I bet there's half a pound waiting to be freed up there if you're willing to forgo the excellent stock lighting and aesthetics. If you can figure out a way to go to a single radiator and fan there's probably a couple pounds to be saved there, and you may get better cooling out of it as well when sitting still. Solo seat.
  15. I applaud your passion to conceptualize your idea and follow it through to fruition; however, in so doing, you're gonna have to shed about 100 lbs. off the bike and increase the engine's output by at least 30%. How do you intend to do this? Complete de-link is about 10 pounds saved, right? He's probably dropped a pound or pound and a half with the change in front wheel. Good titanium exhaust could save 15, and completely removing the PAIR system & a little work with a hole cutter to open up the airbox could be a couple pounds. What are we up to, 30 pounds? There's that lighter weight forged rear wheel for the 5th & 6th gens out now that saves a couple pounds, and then... uhm... I guess there's a swingarm swap to the Ducati stuff that's been talked about that can save a couple pounds. So if he throws a cubic yard of cash at this thing he might hit 40 pounds of weight reduction. That's an admittedly highly optimistic estimate on my part. And probably outside the lines drawn for this specific thread so I'll stop now.
  16. Wasn't there a lower RPM limit to where the Power Commander would not function? I seem to remember mention of the unit not being effective below 4,500 RPM or some such number. Does this newest unit act the same way?
  17. I just hit 9,000 miles on a set of Pirelli Diablo Strada's on my 6th gen VFR. From evidence shared by others, I am light on the throttle and long on the slab. Wonder how long the set of PR2's will last me, and no I'm not running a PP front / PR2 mix. The Strada's have held up really well, so much better than the D220 Front / D204 Rear mix I had on before (ruined the stock D204 front with less than 100 miles on the bike, don't ask), I just wanted to try something new.
  18. If you can give me an idea of what number of pins you need there, and what gauges, I could take a look through an ITT Cannon MIL-spec catalog at work tomorrow. Cannon's catalog is the easiest one I know of to actually find things, although Positronics isn't bad either. MIL-spec just gives you a nice part number so that any company that makes that part number will work, the parts are not company specific so you can mate a Cannon male plug to a female receptical made by Positronics, for instance. They're also weather hardened. I also have no idea what they would cost you on the open market, but they'd be a great way to get a lot more pins into a smaller package than the multiple three-socket connectors you're using now, if you want to reduce size. If not, no big deal, just thought I'd offer a little help. Cool project, I love the look of of the RC45 from the front, can't wait to see how your conversion turns out.
  19. Finally someone else that blends oils makes a statement, I was starting to feel alone here.
  20. I'm in a state of flux on this one, but I've got a bunch of Shell Rotella T Synthetic and am using that as a "base" to which I've added, as of this last change, Suzuki 10w40 MC oil, non-synthetic. I've noticed a bit nicer shifting with less of a notch to the action of the shifter. Thinking I may try a Kawasaki or Honda oil next go around, one quart of the MC oil and the rest Rotella T. Addendum; Purolator "auto" filter, 4,000 mile change interval.
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