SEBSPEED Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 Still undecided on GVE's and new springs. I need to drop the tubes off Monday to have the air holes welded closed. Still have to polish up the brackets, bolt heads, etc. If you had a 41mm cartridge fork, you could just swap the 1000r sliders onto it an call it a day. Anybody with the USD front end on a 5th gen looking to get rid of their leftovers? Nice idea, but, the tubes are too short! :fing02: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer thx1139 Posted June 1, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted June 1, 2009 If you had a 41mm cartridge fork, you could just swap the 1000r sliders onto it an call it a day...Nice idea, but, the tubes are too short! :blush: damn! even longer than a gen5? :fing02: :fing02: sooo... anyone got leftovers from their frankenforked Valkyrie? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 The Valk has cartridge internals? WTF?!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JamieDaugherty Posted June 1, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted June 1, 2009 Still undecided on GVE's and new springs. I need to drop the tubes off Monday to have the air holes welded closed. Still have to polish up the brackets, bolt heads, etc. If you had a 41mm cartridge fork, you could just swap the 1000r sliders onto it an call it a day. Anybody with the USD front end on a 5th gen looking to get rid of their leftovers? I've mated a set of CBR600F4 internals to a set of 1000R forks on one of my bikes. So far so good! It's a little tricky getting everything setup correctly but luckily there are only a handful of parts that need to be machined to make it work. I'm in the middle of stocking some ZX9R internals into a set of VF500F forks. That might be more of a challenge, but still doable. Getting the valving correct is a little tough too, but fortunately I've got a decent amount of valving data to work from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer thx1139 Posted June 1, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted June 1, 2009 The Valk has cartridge internals? WTF?!? Yep. but I think they are bigger dia. than 41mm. Gen6 chopper anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 Still undecided on GVE's and new springs. I need to drop the tubes off Monday to have the air holes welded closed. Still have to polish up the brackets, bolt heads, etc. If you had a 41mm cartridge fork, you could just swap the 1000r sliders onto it an call it a day. Anybody with the USD front end on a 5th gen looking to get rid of their leftovers? I've mated a set of CBR600F4 internals to a set of 1000R forks on one of my bikes. So far so good! It's a little tricky getting everything setup correctly but luckily there are only a handful of parts that need to be machined to make it work. I'm in the middle of stocking some ZX9R internals into a set of VF500F forks. That might be more of a challenge, but still doable. Getting the valving correct is a little tough too, but fortunately I've got a decent amount of valving data to work from. You mean F3, right? F4's are 43mm, just like the F4i's & VTEC's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 The Valk has cartridge internals? WTF?!? Yep. but I think they are bigger dia. than 41mm. Gen6 chopper anyone? Whoa. I was about to go off on the Honda bastages until I remembered that cartridges don't necessarily = external adjustability... :fing02: I'd be pretty pissed if the Valk got external adjustments & the VFR didn't... :fing02: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JamieDaugherty Posted June 1, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted June 1, 2009 You mean F3, right? F4's are 43mm, just like the F4i's & VTEC's. No, I meant F4. The key thing to note is that swapped the internals, not the stanchion tubes. I replaced the damping rods with the cartridge assemblies. This required quite a bit of machine work and "figuring out" but in the end it's pretty slick. I posted a thread somewhere about it a couple of years ago when I did the work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JamieDaugherty Posted June 1, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted June 1, 2009 You mean F3, right? F4's are 43mm, just like the F4i's & VTEC's. No, I meant F4. The key thing to note is that swapped the internals, not the stanchion tubes. I replaced the damping rods with the cartridge assemblies. This required quite a bit of machine work and "figuring out" but in the end it's pretty slick. I posted a thread somewhere about it a couple of years ago when I did the work. Here are some pictures that might help. Internals installed: Machined F4 cap to fit VF1000R tubes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VF1000RS Posted June 1, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted June 1, 2009 Interesting. So how different are the F3 forks from the F4 forks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 You mean F3, right? F4's are 43mm, just like the F4i's & VTEC's. No, I meant F4. The key thing to note is that swapped the internals, not the stanchion tubes. I replaced the damping rods with the cartridge assemblies. This required quite a bit of machine work and "figuring out" but in the end it's pretty slick. I posted a thread somewhere about it a couple of years ago when I did the work. So you machined the F4 fork cap and re-threaded it to fit into the smaller tube, I can see that(too much effort for me though). What really throws me though, is the rebound adjuster. F3's had brass rebound adjusters, F4 and up have aluminum adjusters. :cool: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VF1000RS Posted June 2, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted June 2, 2009 Hmmm, I`ve got a set of F3 forks downstairs...and a set of R forks... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 Try it out, I wanna know if the F3 cap threads right in. I have 2 sets of F3 forks, 900RR forks, and a spare set of R forks in the garage right now, but too lazy to check on my own. :cool: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greatwhite Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 You mean F3, right? F4's are 43mm, just like the F4i's & VTEC's. No, I meant F4. The key thing to note is that swapped the internals, not the stanchion tubes. I replaced the damping rods with the cartridge assemblies. This required quite a bit of machine work and "figuring out" but in the end it's pretty slick. I posted a thread somewhere about it a couple of years ago when I did the work. Here are some pictures that might help. Internals installed: <picture removed for space> Machined F4 cap to fit VF1000R tubes: <picture removed for space> Now that, my good sir, is (to coin a younger generations word) "awesomeness"..... My compliments. :cool: Might that be a kit you would offer in the future? Sprung, valved and ready to install? If so, it's time to start saving my buttons..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JamieDaugherty Posted June 2, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted June 2, 2009 Interesting. So how different are the F3 forks from the F4 forks? Basically the same thing. The only real difference is that the F4's have low speed compression adjustment so the cartridge is a little different at the bottom. With a properly setup bleed hole and shim stack it works fine without the adjustment screw. So you machined the F4 fork cap and re-threaded it to fit into the smaller tube, I can see that(too much effort for me though). What really throws me though, is the rebound adjuster. F3's had brass rebound adjusters, F4 and up have aluminum adjusters. :goofy: Yes, I machined the cap to fit. After checking my notes, the cartridges that I ended up using were 98 CBR900RR parts. The F4 set was a little too bent. They are all pretty much identical internally. Good eye! Try it out, I wanna know if the F3 cap threads right in. I have 2 sets of F3 forks, 900RR forks, and a spare set of R forks in the garage right now, but too lazy to check on my own. :cool: No, it doesn't thread right in. The F3 cap has a much finer thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VF1000RS Posted June 5, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted June 5, 2009 Saw this was mentioned earlier... why not bolt a set of R sliders to F3 tubes and guts...? I`ll have to try it unless somebody has been there and gives me a good reason not to. How much shorter are we talking? I`ll have to have a look. EDIT: Well, I have F2 forks, not F3. Still looks doable if inclined to go that way except you`d probably have to mount the clip-ons under the top triple clamp. I`d have to throw the R triples on the F2 forks to see how the longer steering stem affects things though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 Saw this was mentioned earlier... why not bolt a set of R sliders to F3 tubes and guts...? I`ll have to try it unless somebody has been there and gives me a good reason not to. How much shorter are we talking? I`ll have to have a look. EDIT: Well, I have F2 forks, not F3. Still looks doable if inclined to go that way except you`d probably have to mount the clip-ons under the top triple clamp. I`d have to throw the R triples on the F2 forks to see how the longer steering stem affects things though. F2 & F3 forks are essentially the same; with one big difference - 1992 & 93 F2's had damping rod internals, while the 1994 F2 got cartridge internals. The 94 F2 fork became the F3 fork. They are quite a bit shorter, but I haven't measured the difference yet and all my F2/F3 forks are apart right now... I could measure the tube length for you to compare to your R if that helps(all my R forks are assembled!). I think you would need a gullwing triple at minimum to end up with geometry that's close to stock, although I have seen them used as - is. (See Joep's trackbike thread on the BBS, he's got a complete F2 front end on his 750F) Joep has not made any mention of interference between the front fender/tire and the cylinder head or radiator, and that includes track use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JamieDaugherty Posted June 5, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted June 5, 2009 Saw this was mentioned earlier... why not bolt a set of R sliders to F3 tubes and guts...? I`ll have to try it unless somebody has been there and gives me a good reason not to. How much shorter are we talking? I`ll have to have a look. EDIT: Well, I have F2 forks, not F3. Still looks doable if inclined to go that way except you`d probably have to mount the clip-ons under the top triple clamp. I`d have to throw the R triples on the F2 forks to see how the longer steering stem affects things though. It's quite a bit. I thought about this but determined that the internal parts/modifications as well as the machining of the fork caps was actually easier than trying to swap the stanchion tubes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 I think you would need a gullwing triple at minimum to end up with geometry that's close to stock, although I have seen them used as - is. (See Joep's trackbike thread on the BBS, he's got a complete F2 front end on his 750F) Joep has not made any mention of interference between the front fender/tire and the cylinder head or radiator, and that includes track use. Here's a decent side shot of Joep's bike: You can see he has the clip-ons under the triple to lower the tubes as much as possible, and had to trim the front fairing in order to accomplish that. I think if you do what he did, then add a nice Daytona or other dirt bike bar, you'd clear the fairing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 I haven`t tried to mount the breather, but I`m pretty sure it won`t fit. I may just block off the breather that returns to the airbox and do something smaller for the crankcase breather. Did something similar on my Mutant R with a T and a small K&N. Tom, any repercussions you can think of to blocking the airbox breather? Oil buildup in the box? I'm going through this right now with my 750, I have a filter & was planning to tee the airbox line into the case line, but haven't found a suitable size tee. A plug would be easier to make/find... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VF1000RS Posted August 4, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted August 4, 2009 I haven`t tried to mount the breather, but I`m pretty sure it won`t fit. I may just block off the breather that returns to the airbox and do something smaller for the crankcase breather. Did something similar on my Mutant R with a T and a small K&N. Tom, any repercussions you can think of to blocking the airbox breather? Oil buildup in the box? I'm going through this right now with my 750, I have a filter & was planning to tee the airbox line into the case line, but haven't found a suitable size tee. A plug would be easier to make/find... No repercussions have occurred. The airbox breather nipple is just a return from the puke box so any crankcase gases get run through the carbs and burned. I used some epoxy made for plastic and a piece of fibreglass cloth(or maybe it was duct tape ) to block off the airbox hole after I cut the nipple flush. You will need to vent the breather on top of the rear valve cover though(does the 750 have this breather?)Place your filter so this breather will have access to the air. I used a T so if there is any oil blow-by from the engine, it drains to the bottom of a tube attached to the bottom of the T, then capped it with the stock puke box drain cap. I can still drain the tube if/when neccessary. There is also a breather on the R that goes from the left side rear of the rear valve cover to the cases down by the tranny, leave this as is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 As far as I can tell, there is only the one breather coming off the rear of the case. I'll double check when I get home. How often do you have to clean your breather filter(or do you need to at all)? I'm worried about spooge... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VF1000RS Posted August 5, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted August 5, 2009 I may have cleaned it once? Maybe twice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 I may have cleaned it once? Maybe twice? Super. I have a plan now, thanks! :fing02: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Kel Posted August 5, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted August 5, 2009 I may have cleaned it once? Maybe twice? So, once every 500 miles then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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