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Veefer800Canuck

Bls Footpeg Block Install

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One thing I am able to do is simply put a thick layer of electrical tape on the stand where it contacts the peg block which I'm considering doing at this point. That way,at least, it won't be metal to metal & they won't mar each other up.

With the brake pedal, I believe I understand how to take it apart to remove one of the nuts on the rod. But I can't quite picture how that will provide more adjustment for the pedal to be lowered though. It seems to me it would have the opposite effect. But I'm rather simple minded these days. It's probably one of those things which once I have it apart it will make perfect sense.

Can you confirm for me though that these blocks are NOT identical to each other? In other words, one will only fit on the right side & the other will only fit on the left side.

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Yeah, a weld bead would probably work, then fine tune it by grinding down.

If you look at the brake rod, the jam nut prevents you from turning the turnbuckle up all the way, efectively lowering the brake pedal on the other side of the pivot point. Also the brake rod is probably too long, and it will hit the turnbuckle, not allowing full adjustment, which is why I shortened mine. And I locktited the turnbuckle so the brake rod would not rotate during use and effect adjustment of the brake.

And yes, the blocks are mirror images of each other, so one is L and the other R.

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I finished adjusting the brake pedal & would like to share some things I found to be interesting.

The black lever bracket is threaded. I sure would have liked to have known that to begin with. Then I could have understood how this adjustment works. It did not create any problem & became obvious right away. Perhaps this would be common knowledge to most but I don't do this sort of thing everyday. I realize now if that bracket was not threaded it would have required a nut to be below it. The 2 nuts were easily visible on my bike. But in the pic above, the top nut is mostly hidden by the black rubber boot. I see it now but I did not before. I was confused. I was thinking the adjustment was made by only these 2 nuts some how & how could removing one make any difference. But now that I know the bracket is threaded, it makes perfect sense as I had mentioned it probably would once I got working on it.

I'm glad the threaded rod spins freely as long as the top nut is tightly treaded as far as it can be toward the master cylinder(which mine was not since I had loosened it when trying to make this adjustment originally) & can be moved around. This made removing that bracket & nut easy. Veefer, was the reason you used lock-tite because that threaded rod can spin? I made the adjustment as far as I could without cutting the rod. I end up having to lift my foot alittle bit off the peg for it to be on top of the pedal but it is less than before the adjustment. And no big deal to me.

I'm also glad that brake fluid does not leak when that rubber boot is removed. That would have rotted my socks big time.

Once that is all reassembled, adjusting the brake light switch was easy. I still have space for more adjustment without having to do anything to the spring.

Another interesting thing to me is, in the pics above, it appears that the foot pegs are positioned closer to the shift lever & brake pedal after the installation of the lowering blocks. Mine are located further away which I think I prefer. I'll be trying to post some pics I took soon.

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I did a similar mod to Veefer's:

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I don't think you need to weld though if you can't drill and tap the sidestand. Get a small hose clamp at the local hardware store and insert a small spacer, metal, wood, whatever and secure it with the hose clamp. Adjust the size of the spacer so the sidestand is spaced where you want it. I did end up cutting off the peg that projects perpendicular to give my toes more room.

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Thanks vfrcapn for the idea. I do have hose clamps of various sizes but I wouldn't like the way that would look. For now, I tightly wrapped a thick layer of electrical tape around the stand where it hits the lowering block. Being black on black, it's hardly noticable & creates a nice soft sound when contact is made. Instead of the bang of metal to metal. Time will tell how well it lasts.

I do like how your mod is done & looks. That will last forever & is easily adjustable. If I had the means & ability I might do that myself. But for now, I like my simple way.

How do you put the stand down without the peg that you cut off?

Thanks again. I do appreciate your input.

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Thanks vfrcapn for the idea. I do have hose clamps of various sizes but I wouldn't like the way that would look. For now, I tightly wrapped a thick layer of electrical tape around the stand where it hits the lowering block. Being black on black, it's hardly noticable & creates a nice soft sound when contact is made. Instead of the bang of metal to metal. Time will tell how well it lasts.

I do like how your mod is done & looks. That will last forever & is easily adjustable. If I had the means & ability I might do that myself. But for now, I like my simple way.

How do you put the stand down without the peg that you cut off?

Thanks again. I do appreciate your input.

Same concept with the electrical tape, it should last awhile but tape is cheap and easy to replace. I never used the peg to put the sidestand down, I just use the foot of the peg.

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Veefer, was the reason you used lock-tite because that threaded rod can spin?

Yes. I wanted everything to stay put and not rotate, therefore changing the pedal height or brake engagement point. Has worked 100% so far.

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Veefer, are your pegs now located some what forward from their factory location as it looks in your pics? What year is that part of your bike?

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so i went to install the BLS footpegs and the left side was no problem but can't say the same of the right. Basically best i can tell is that in order to get the brake pedal down far enough to be comfy w the peg lowered, one must indeed shorten the threaded brake rod as veefer800canuk says. but (see below - he evidently used a rod assy from another model) on my '02, the basic problem is that in order to shorten the rod enough to put the brake lever down to a comfy position, one must remove so many threads that, were one to remove the lowering blocks to take the pegs back up for sport riding, one would not have enough threads left - the clip that links the lever to the rod only allows for about oooh 3/8" of play total. So has anyone found a way around this conundrum, like perhaps a clip that allows more play ... anything that would allow one to actually go back and forth between having the lowering kit and not, with say under an hour of labor? I was thinking maybe I'd just get a second brake assy to swap out...any ideas greatly appreciated

However, in order to get the brake lever down as low as possible, I had to eliminate the locknut from the brake rod (red circle) and shorten the threaded brake rod (arrow). I used a drop of locktite to keep the lever bracket from moving and as far as shortening the threaded rod, well, when I did the RC51 fork mod, I had custom fit a CBR600F4i rear master cylinder and I had left the brake rod longer than stock "just in case". In case of what, I'm not sure, but that was probably the reason it needed to be shortened in my situation:
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Old thread or not, I just wanted to thank you Veefer for this thread. I just got my blocks in the mail and put them on. Wow! What a HUGE difference. I need to lower my brake lever and this is the thread that came up. Thanks again.

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Wow, has it been 6 years???

I haven't taken the BLS blocks off, Still running them, still working great.

Pay careful attention to the footpeg feeler mod I did, it's perfect. I would recommend the same.

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Wow, has it been 6 years???

I haven't taken the BLS blocks off, Still running them, still working great.

Pay careful attention to the footpeg feeler mod I did, it's perfect. I would recommend the same.

Its hard to believe but Peg Blocks, an exclusive VFRD product; is

entering its 6 year of keeping those knees in the breeze... I want to

thank Rob for his ingenuity and support that he tirelessly gives to

the membership and there's a table at Bubba Gumps reserved in your

name Rob anytime you return to Laguna Seca...

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Best Mod Ever!

Has kept me on a VFR when 40 years of basketball tried to force my 6'2" frame onto another ride. I now can walk into work on Monday without a limp.

KEB

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Just a quick thanks for this info.

I bought a set of lowering blocks for my 2000 VFR800.

I have yet to ride the bike with the lowering blocks installed but static testing tells me I'll be very happy with this mod.

TINK

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As will your knees. Great mod. I switched bikes earlier this year with another member on a ride and felt folded up like I was stuffed in a fridge. I wouldn't run a VFR without 'em.

The brake light thing can a bit tricky (at least on a 6th gen). I finally got a very small keychain split-ring at a hardware store and threaded it through the hole in the brake pedal and then through the end of the spring that goes to the switch. That gave it just enough extra length to keep the brake light from being on constantly.

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Just a friendly reminder that PEG BLOCKS, a VFRD exclusive product;
are still available to keep your knees in the breeze... the price + USPS
flat rate priority shipping are as follows... as soon as I receive Pay
Pal payment the shipping starts... my account: netters2@comcast.net

USA Peg Blocks $85.00 + Priority Shipping $8.30 = $93.30

Canada Peg Blocks $85.00 + Priority Shipping $27.90= $112.90

Europe Peg Blocks $85.00 + Priority Shipping $38.60 = $123.60

Australia or Denmark $85.00 + Priority Shipping $39.60 = $124.60

What you see is what you get..
gallery_3131_51_90651.jpg

Rob's INSTALLATION GUIDE
http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/34097-bls-footpeg-block-install/


VFRD site support
http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/77384-peg-lowering-blocks/

1stIntructionSheet.jpg

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THANK YOU BLS! Got mine, I just need to finish installing bags so I can go for a ride!

You're welcome... I'd like to thank Miguel for a great site and Rob for his great installation guide...

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Finally got these installed after ordering them a couple of months ago and having them sitting on my shelf. Did the usual stuff:

- adjusted the shifter down a notch or two

- extended the brake light spring by using a split key ring (as suggested by many here)

- rotated the adjustment rod as far as it goes to get the brake pedal adjusted as low as it goes

I've seen people post about getting the brake pedal lower by backing the adjustment rod all the way out and cutting off a few threads with a Dremel. I'm having trouble figuring how to get the pin & nut off, there's no room back there to get any leverage at all. Can you guys provide a little more detailed guidance around how to get that rod out to cut off some threads?

Thanks guys!

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I followed the procedure in my 03 VFR last night and did not have to cut the threaded brake rod at all but it’s at the max adjustment length. Did have to stretch, reassemble, restretch, and test the brake light switch and spring. Great info and thanks to an old thread!

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This thread has become very valuable as I just installed a used set of these blocks on my 01. I am going to put 6th gen pegs on it for more space for the kickstand and modify the kickstand to accomodate as seen here. I maxed out the rear brake adjustment and think it will be alright as it is barely used. Thanks!

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I have finished the kickstand modifications, as others have. Cut off the little foot and JB Weld-ed a small washer to keep the kickstand from going higher. Also installed 6th gen pegs becuase they are thinner. Right now I have just about 1 finger gap worth of space and it feels and looks good. 2 coats of Rustoleum satin black for finish. Can't wait to see how she rides!

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