We Don't Need No Stinking Cush Drive...

[JZH]

I'm trying to sort out the rear-end mods to my FP to match the NR rear wheel (or at least not embarrass it) and I've come to loathe the RC36 cush-drive monster hub-sprocket-carrier-thing, or whatever it's called. I've considered fitting an entire RC30 swing arm, which would be the dog's bollocks, with its exotic brake torque arm and sexy good looks, but they are about 35mm shorter than the RC36 swinger (not to mention kinda rare on the second-hand market). And there's no place to mount the torque arm to the RC36 frame, either...

RC30 Swing Arm1.jpg

RC30braketorquearm2.jpg

And here's the OEM RC36 swing arm:

Hideous braced swingarm 2.jpg

(Okay, OEM doesn't look this bad, but I couldn't resist!)

But, I think I could simply replace the sprocket carrier with the one from the RC30. In fact, I may have to, as I'm using a modified RC30 axle/hub to fit the RC40 rear wheel. OEM RC30 rear sprocket is 40T, and RC36 is 43T, but it shouldn't be hard to find--or even have made--an RC30 rear sprocket with 43T, methinks.

The two-pot sliding brake caliper has to go as well. I've got an SP1 (RC51) rear caliper and m/c on the way, which is modern, gold and probably a lot lighter. I'd love to mount it below the swing arm (like on the RC30), but as the torque arm mount is on the top of the swing arm, that might be difficult...

RC36 cum RC30-04.jpg

I have collected a number of extra swing arms in the garage (I'm an aspiring BC Guy...) and yesterday I was pleasantly surprised to discover that the NC30 alloy torque arm uses the same mounting bolts as the OEM RC36 swiss-cheesed steel torque arm (though it is longer). You can see it peeking out from behind the rear brake disc on my 4-bolt-converted NC30:

PA250014x.jpg

I should be able to do something with that, the SP1 rear caliper, the RC30 sprocket carrier and some sort of peek-a-boo with the rear brake line...

Oh, back to the reason for my post: any reason I should try to keep the cush drive?

Cheers,

[JZH]

The MV Agusta swing arm should work, but you will have to be very careful to match the (a) the wheel centre line and (b) the chain run.  I was surprised that the RC30 swing arm was so different than the RC36 swing arm...

 

 

This is a pic of the RC30 ride height adjuster (the seller did not know if this was the HRC or the Maxton version, but it doesn't say "HRC" to me!), which is used when people switch from the original 18" rear wheel to a 17" wheel.  If I had a CNC mill, a block of 60mm x 85mm x 165mm alloy--and the ability to use it--I would re-make mine to be more like this.  But that's a lot of "ifs"...

 

Thanks; I remember Chain Gang from an earlier project.  The guy doing my sprockets is an "old school" machinist with an interest in bikes, so I think I'm in good hands.  We shall see...they should be done next week!

 

Ciao,

[Dutchy]

MV? Did someone say MV?

 

 

 

 

Parked right next this APE

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ha! You thought Aprilia did you?

[JZH]

Upitty Datey Time...

 

So, the friendly machinist (John Hemming Engineering in Stropshire, UK) had suggested I buy a stainless steel 43T sprocket blank from him instead of him machining the steel one I'd bought from Sprockets Unlimited, because he could order it from his supplier with elongated holes (which would look much better than drilled holes, for sure).  Then he offered to take the steel blank sprocket off my hands in exchange, so I bit his hand off... 

 

 

The RC30 torque arm is just sitting on top of the swing arm at the moment, as I have nowhere to attach the frame-end, but I intend to do so at some point.

 

I think the sprocket looks great, but it really needs to be black!  I wonder if I can get it PVD coated?

 

I like the OEM-look of the rear disc, but it's a bit corroded, so I will replace it with an EBC rotor.

 

 

Looks pretty straight to me...it was me that was crooked!

 

     

 

Durbahn hugger...

 

 

What's left to do:

 

1. Re-make the top shock mount (oh, well, the previous design was just a test--which failed to clear the swing arm...bugger).

2. Make a new under tray/battery box out of sheet aluminum.

3. Modify Durbahn hugger (yep, have to put a saw to it because it was designed for a taller wheel/tire combo and looks a bit "off-road" at the moment).

4. Modify VFR1200 lower yoke fork stops (just trim, really).

5. Make up a braided-stainless-steel-rear-brake-line-through-the-swing-arm.

6. Relocate/locate "Dr_Bean" modified OEM fuel pump and new Shindengen series reg/rec (from 2014 Suzuki DL1000--I'm thinking about putting it in the airstream).

7. Fit SP2 forks/VFR1200 triples (w/0.5mm shims on lower tubes)/CBR600RR3 brakes/CBR929 R-157 front mudguard/SP1 front wheel/SP2 rotors/shiny new R-157 OEM fairings...

 

Ciao,

[JZH]

On 8/8/2016 at 9:41 PM, JZH said:

What's left to do:

 

1. Re-make the top shock mount (oh, well, the previous design was just a test--which failed to clear the swing arm...bugger).

2. Make a new under tray/battery box out of sheet aluminum.

3. Modify Durbahn hugger (yep, have to put a saw to it because it was designed for a taller wheel/tire combo and looks a bit "off-road" at the moment).

4. Modify VFR1200 lower yoke fork stops (just trim, really).

5. Make up a braided-stainless-steel-rear-brake-line-through-the-swing-arm.

6. Relocate/locate "Dr_Bean" modified OEM fuel pump and new Shindengen series reg/rec (from 2014 Suzuki DL1000--I'm thinking about putting it in the airstream).

7. Fit SP2 forks/VFR1200 triples (w/0.5mm shims on lower tubes)/CBR600RR3 brakes/CBR929 R-157 front mudguard/SP1 front wheel/SP2 rotors/shiny new R-157 OEM fairings...

 

1.  Still trying to get this made.  As it is absolutely essential, I shall persevere!

 

2.  Mostly done.  Bought a sturdy sheet metal bender on eBay--works a treat!  The new fuse box and the OEM starter relay will mount in the open area to the right of the battery, so I think I won't close it off at that end (to allow access to the wiring from the side), or I could make a removable panel or something.  The lone bolt and nut to the left of the battery is holding the new reg/rec below the tray (the others are hiding under the crossbar of the subframe), where it just clears the hugger at full travel (I hope)...  It will eventually be replaced with a button head, methinks.

 

 

Now I need to re-paint the slightly modified subframe, which I had lying around from my old FL.  That's a Motobatt MBTX12U sitting on the plastic spacer they provided, so I think it's sitting at YTX14BS-height.  It clears the seat as is, so I think I will keep it there.

 

3.  Done.  Before:

 

After:

 

Too bad this currently uncluttered view is going to get covered up by a side exhaust until I can implement my wicked underseat end can plan (scored a set of four ultra-narrow Lasers for something like £40 on eBay).  I will need to bend and weld a new subframe to fit it (not to mention fabricate the exhaust tubing), but that can be done mañana...

 

Shit!  I just realised that my TBR link pipe is low-exit, and I wasn't planning on re-fitting the passenger pegs.  Hmmm... 

 

4.  Not yet done.  But I can probably "top" them using my drill press if I have to.

 

5.  Not yet done.  Have the hose, fittings and tools.  Had the bright idea to run the wheel speed sensor cable (for a GIPro gear indicator) through the swing arm as well.  Tidy, tidy is the goal.

 

6.  Fuel pump will be returning to the OEM location.  Reg/rec is mounted as below:

 

Not because it really needs to be mounted in the airstream, but because that's one of the only places I could find to put the massive thing!

 

7.  All in due course.  A "mere" Frankenviffer front end conversion should be a doddle compared with the rear suspension upgrade palaver.

 

8.  This doesn't look so bad:

 

However, after years of electrical fiddling on this bike, its wiring harness is far from stock and now includes a lot of extra wires and circuits that I no longer need (mainly for auxilliary lights and other things like horns), so I decided to pull it and carefully re-do it.  That necessitated drawing up a complete wiring diagram for my still fairly electrically modified bike.  Thankfully, (a) wiring harnesses for these "old" bikes are still very straightforward and (b) here in the UK I can easily buy every imaginable colour-coded wire I need to maintain the OEM wiring color code system (from Kojaycat and/or Vehicle Wiring Products).

 

Ciao,

[The Phantom]

NR wheel...

[The Phantom]

NR wheel...

[JZH]

Yes, and none of this would have been necessary if it wasn't!

 

Amazingly, the shock mount adapter is now DONE (many thanks to our own KenG), so I can finally move on to the other things.  I may have to re-make the adapter later, depending on how the bike rides (it is, unfortunately, not adjustable), but I think it is in the ballpark.

 

Ciao,

[V4 Rosso]

Do you have a front wheel that matches the rear (in looks)?

[JZH]

The original NR front wheel had five spokes and was 16" in diameter, so I never really looked too hard for it.  The FR-FV six-spoke wheel is similar in appearance, but the BST carbon front front wheel does have five spokes...  I'm sticking with the FR-FV wheel for now.

 

Ciao,

[JZH]

I took some time off to concentrate on other things, but now that I'm looking again at the motorcycle carcass on my lift, I seem to be going backwards!  The new shock mount made it clear that I will need to get an offset front sprocket made--I hate the fact that, because sprockets are consumables, any custom sprockets will have to be re-made each time the sprockets wear.  Anyway, I've been working on the VFR1200 front end, so it's progress at least.

 

Ciao,

[atx]

Could you not just get an adapter/spacer made for the front sprocket? That way you are only getting that piece made once, and can still buy consumables off the shelf next time.

[JZH]

Thanks, but that would be too easy!  I should have said "inset front sprocket", as it needs to move closer to the engine.  There's enough clearance between the chain run and the engine case to move about 10mm, and the sprocket has to kinda hang back over the output shaft in order to get the chain lined up with the rear sprocket and the chain guide. 

 

OTOH, it might be a better idea to move those two things outwards, which could be done with spacers and re-drilled holes, respectively.  I wanted to avoid drilling new holes in the swing arm, but who's gonna know? 

 

Ciao,

[VFR4Lee]

On 5/2/2016 at 0:01 PM, JZH said:

Nothing like reviving a seven year old thread...

And, no, I haven't actually done anything.

 

How is that Legend of Procrastination application coming?

[JZH]

6 hours ago, VFR4Lee said:

 

How is that Legend of Procrastination application coming?

 

Is it still available?!?  I thought Murray had that one sewn up!

 

Ciao,

[VFR4Lee]

First app turned in is the first loser.

 so I hear.

[JZH]

On 10/26/2016 at 4:38 PM, JZH said:

Thanks, but that would be too easy!  I should have said "inset front sprocket", as it needs to move closer to the engine.  There's enough clearance between the chain run and the engine case to move about 10mm, and the sprocket has to kinda hang back over the output shaft in order to get the chain lined up with the rear sprocket and the chain guide. 

 

OTOH, it might be a better idea to move those two things outwards, which could be done with spacers and re-drilled holes, respectively.  I wanted to avoid drilling new holes in the swing arm, but who's gonna know? 

 

Indeed, I ended up doing just that, and it looks fine.  In fact, the old chain guide mounting holes are actually concealed beneath the chain guide (which I moved 9mm outboard), so I'll just pop in some grub screws to seal up the four redundant mounting holes and forget about them!

 

 

So, went back to the OEM front sprocket and spaced the rear sprocket 3mm outboard.  This way, I'll "only" have to get a rear sprocket made when I want to change chain/sprockets.  (Well, it's better than having to get both sprockets custom made!)

 

I re-mounted the Durbahn rear hugger to clear the new chain run, and ordered some CBR900RR rearset brackets--which I believe will be perfect for anchoring the RC30 torque arm.  More bling!  (I won't actually be re-positioning the bike's footpegs; the OEM footpegs will simply mount over the bracket on the LHS using longer bolts, and I will probably do the same on the RHS for symmetry's sake.)

 

 

These are quite nice (but 4x the cost), so could be an option for later, if I decide I really want to re-position the footpegs:

 

 

Almost done with the rear of the bike, just the wheel-speed-sensor-cable-and-brakeline-through-the-swing-arm to do.  I will also mount a "shark fin" chain guard at some point, but I'm still trying to find one that works and looks okay.

 

Ciao,