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Gsxr Mirrors On 6th Gen


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Greg

I am still in but if more drop out I will need to review the final price, if the CNC shop will still proceed with low numbers.

Cheers

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Don't give up yet, folks. I met a guy today who does CAD drawing and machining. He wants to see the files, and has said he can get me a set made to try out, then perhaps make small batches for anyone

Hot pink with daisies and retractable streamers.

My GSXR mirrors arrived today. I did little tear down in the kitchen while Mrs. Carver was making Mexican roll your own style burritos and I think I can do with these what I thought I could. Pics and

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Greg, Ill stay in ,but yeah will call it quites if it bumps much more, sorry but was just going to store them anyways.

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IN:

wgregt

marooncobra

ultimateVFR

Switchblade

Waiting to hear from:

Lacy/VFR800R

Polarbear

Switchblade

highsideNZ

BTW, Switchblade is here twice, in and waiting to hear from...
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IN:

wgregt

marooncobra

ultimateVFR

Switchblade

Waiting to hear from:

Lacy/VFR800R

Polarbear

Switchblade

highsideNZ

BTW, Switchblade is here twice, in and waiting to hear from...

Thanks ..

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IN:

wgregt

marooncobra

ultimateVFR

Switchblade

Polarbear

Waiting to hear from:

Lacy/VFR800R

Switchblade

highsideNZ

BTW, Switchblade is here twice, in and waiting to hear from...

Thanks ..
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My thoughts:

As much as I'd like to put this to bed and send in an order, I'm guessing it's gonna be way more than $181/set for just the few of us this looks like it will be.

Another thing: If we go this route, with my current shop who designed the piece, even if they make these, I'm now finding out that I do not own the design. To me, this is...quite wrong. Seems the "design" is not for sale, apparently at any price. To me, this is a deal-breaker. In my mind, if you design a part (and make it) then I pay you, then...we're done and I walk away with the file. If I decide to make a million more somewhere else in the future, that's up to me.

Plus, to top it off, I know what these went for Round 1 with Darth. Yes, he may have gotten a few more (quantity 50) made, but I still think the quotes I'm getting are astronomical compared to what he paid, not that many years ago.

I'm inclined to find another designer, give him my/our collective thoughts, and walk away with the file to get bids.

Anyway, my .02. What are you guys thinking?

PS IF you have a one of these from the Round 1 that you'd be willing to lend me for a bit to have a designer get me a workable file, I'd be delighted to give you some $ to hold until they are returned. Of course I'd have it all set up on my end before you put them in the mail to minimize that time you'd be without them.


highsideNZ says:

"Ok

Count me in and I have a shipping address in Portland OR so costs should be domestic.

So we are saying that around $200 USD is the all up, plus freight.

And these are anodized black?

Cheers

Phil"


Yes they are anodized black. And yes, $200 is the all in amount I'm shooting for, only adding in freight. But that was when we had 8 folks. Still waiting to see who's in. The way it's looking now though, is less than that. Which means more cost for the rest of us. I'm inclined to rethink this...UGH.


IN:
wgregt
marooncobra
ultimateVFR
Switchblade
Polarbear

highsideNZ

Waiting to hear from:
Lacy/VFR800R

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Greg,

I'd quit screwing around with the shop you're using, especially if you've already paid for the design work. Beyond that, you can use the file I made for you. It's fully parametric, which is geek speak for fully editable. You'll need the software to make the changes, or I can do that for you. I guess I'm not fully up to speed on what needs to change, though.

If you look for another designer/consultant/shop to build just the file, you'll be in a couple hundred bucks. Time is money and no one outside of this community cares about how much time and effort you've expended thus far.

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If you need help, let me know. I work with a couple of designers that draw parts on a daily basis and don't care to "own" the file. I have had one of them do some side work for me in the past for minimum compensation.

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You know, for what it's worth, I wouldn't mind giving Wera's guys a shot at it. The design should not be picked up by anyone else. And, just for the record, at $180+, it is well over $200 for me in Canucks dollars, plus boots and shipping. Would be close to $300 actually, about $150 a side.

This being said, it is your call but I want to say again that we appreciate all the time you have put in this project.

C

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Wera...PM coming your way....

Thank you. Much appreciated. If I ever meet you in person I will buy you one beer. Two. Maybe three. Oh heck!!

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  • 4 weeks later...

Just to keep you guys in the loop:

I am talking to a local moto-part designer the week of the 15th sometime about these. He has thoughts of making them with a foundry? Not sure about details. I'l let you know more after we meet. He also knows a local shop who might be able to offer better pricing. Last week I talked to the machine shop @ UCLA about doing them actually (they have a low hourly rate) but they are closing for the summer to bring in $2 mil of new machinery. Shop foreman did say that they'd be glad to help us after they get everything up & running though, but I'd like to pursue these other 2 leads/ideas just in case. More when I know it.

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Sorry I'm late to the party. I'm still in. I will be incommunicado for the next two and a half weeks, but I will join in on the buy when I get back. 

 

Lacy

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  • 2 weeks later...
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On 2 mai 2016 at 0:36 AM, wgregt said:

Just to keep you guys in the loop:

I am talking to a local moto-part designer the week of the 15th sometime about these. He has thoughts of making them with a foundry? Not sure about details. I'l let you know more after we meet. He also knows a local shop who might be able to offer better pricing. Last week I talked to the machine shop @ UCLA about doing them actually (they have a low hourly rate) but they are closing for the summer to bring in $2 mil of new machinery. Shop foreman did say that they'd be glad to help us after they get everything up & running though, but I'd like to pursue these other 2 leads/ideas just in case. More when I know it.

 

 

Waiting very optimistically...  :cheerleader:    thanks wgregt... :beer:

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Greg,

 

Any update on the mounts? Just broke a mirror lane splitting. Van driver closed the gap when he watched me come up the inside!!

 

Cheers 

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Sorry guys, but no updates. I have been working 7 days a week, 12+ hours a day since early March, so I haven't been able to go get the ABS prototypes or shop them around like I wanted to. I hope things will get back to normal after the Memorial Day holiday for me.

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Well, hell.

 

You guys got me thinking I need to move on this, so I texted the guy that made the ABS models for me.

 

He says "I actually talked to a vendor I use here at work on the phone already on your behalf who has a casting foundry about these. He also has a machine shop in back. I'll go over tomorrow and take him your part. He's already said he thinks he can handle it in the machine shop, but I want to take him the part tomorrow and be sure."

 

So, it looks like wheels are already turning and I didn't even know about it. How's that for some good news?

 

Of course I'll fill you in once I chat with the guy personally.

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  • 2 weeks later...

update:

 

I met with the machine shop guy last friday in person, and had ABS samples in hand. He didn't quote a price yet b/c he suggested a few small things that might lessen the price (like extending the base a few mm in order to give the machine more room to grab the piece etc.) which I am having done the end of this week.

 

But, now that I got ABS samples, I have some issues. If you got ideas for fixes, I'd love to hear 'em, cause right now I don't like the solutions.

 

I've always hated/despised the idea of drilling the bolts. Makes them weaker and seems like a giant PITA. But that's the only way I see possible to solve the problem of getting the wire from one side of the suzuki mirror, across the bolt, and exiting the base to go into the fairing.

 

The wire right now needs to make it's way down the inside of the bolt about halfway, and exit out the SIDE of the bolt somewhere around the halfway point, at which point it then exits the base and goes into the fairing between the mounting bolts. And hopefully the hole drilled into the side of the bolt would line up with the hole in the base once everything was tightened down.

 

I thought maybe I could just keyhole a small semicircle on the side of the existing suzuki mirror mount hole, and run the wire ALONGSIDE the exterior of the bolt (and just make the bolt hole a little bigger to allow room for the wire to do this), then exit out the bottom of the mount like normal. Not have to drill the bolt at all. But...cutting that small notch would get rid of at least one of the OEM small bumps on the bottom of the suzuki mirror that would "lock" to the corresponding bumps on the mount we're making, which would make the whole "interlocking" bumps thing.....pretty useless. There are only 3 of these interlocking small bumps on the top of the mount and the bottom of the mirror to begin with, and taking one away gets rid of the benefits of doing the interlocking thing to begin with. Plus, there's really no room to cut the notch anyhow (see fotos below.)

 

So, as much as I hate it, drilling the hardened bolt seems like the only way. I can't see any way to get the wire to exit out of the bottom of the mount and still hide it, install the bolt cover cap, etc.

 

So...ideas?

 

PS The machine shop DID say the interlocking bumps thing on the mount would be problematic, and the corners probably would not be 100% sharp (as the router bit turns a round circle when cutting). Should we get rid of the bumps and maybe grind off the ones on the suzuki mirror to have two flat surfaces instead? Wouldn't fix the issue of the wire and drilling the bolt, but might make 'em cheaper? Might add vibes to the mirror and make them harder to keep in one spot and not rotate when riding though? Thoughts?

 

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I have very, very little practical intelligence for things like this, but I will venture one or two ideas anyways (feel free to shoot them down): 

a. could we drill a small hole on the "inside" of the mirror stem, the inside of the curved part and, if there were another hole in the fairing right next to the mount, that would remove the need to drill the bolt? Opposite to where it is coming out now on the stem?? Top of the stem on the 1st and 2nd pic on your previous post?? Maybe it would weaken the fairing too much? Not sure... 

b. is there any way to get a very thick soft washer to put under the bumps on the mirror and eliminate the need to grind them down? Maybe that would also secure the mirror to the mount if the washer acts as a soft surface to stop it from rotating? Something as soft as a rubber o-ring type if thing? 

 

There you have it, have at it and destroy as you wish. 

 

But I just want to reiterate that I thank you, Wgregt, for taking all this time to try and figure it out for us. 

 

Christian 

 

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a) Sounds like your idea would be to basically get the wire to exit the mirror at another location, maybe on the bottom of the stalk (you're seeing the underside of the suzuki mirror in those top 2 fotos), basically underneath where it is now?

 

Sure. Probably do-able, but you'd have to get the wire to come OUT of that hole somehow, which would mean separating the mirror glass/head from the shaft somehow (on other models this is done by breaking the glass to get to the bolt that holds them together...not sure how to do this on the gsxr mirror. It MIGHT be done by removing the signal part and gaining access that way maybe?) and then pushing the wire thru that new, somewhat hidden smaller hole maybe?

 

And yes you could then drill a hole OUTSIDE of the footprint of the mirror base on the fairing (which you'd see) to pass the wire to the electrics under the fairing.

 

But you'd see it.

 

b) The soft rubber washer (like a hose connection washer maybe that fits inside a water hose attachment point) might do the trick if it has enough friction to keep it from rotating. I'm all about not having to do extra steps like grinding the nubs off the bottom of the OEM mirror if we don't have to.

 

 

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Greg

 

I think the bumps will be required, even if slightly rounded, as this will prevent the mirrors from folding when under speed. The friction of the bevelled washers only may not be enough and tightening the bolt to its max to prevent this may cause cracking of the mirror arm.

 

With regard to the bolt we only need drill a 2-3 mm hole through the centre of the bolt to get the wire through the assembly. This will not weaken the bolt to the point of stress. In fact in my early engineering days I seem to remember that a tube has more strength than a rod?

 

Marooncobra

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What about the drilling of the bolt from the side (to meet the drilled hole down the shaft)? That weaken it at all? I can't drill the bolt all the way thru...that would put the wires exiting the bolt at the bottom when I need the wires to come out near the middle.

 

Hmmmmm.....unless for some reason the bolt was short enough that when everything got tight we still had some room for the wires to pass thru to the exit hole as they came out of the bolt. Hmmm...

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Greg

 

I need to look at the mirrors again to see the issue. I have only provided my last response from your photos and my old memory!! I am now at work but will look in the garage tonight when i get home. Gives me an excuse not to be sit in front of the one eyed monster in the corner and vegetate!!!

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