Popular Post lastfleetadmiral Posted January 7 Popular Post Share Posted January 7 Hi Everyone. My first Post So I'm building a VFR using a lot of different bits and pieces to get in the end my version of a 6X replica. Highlights are Triumph Daytona 675 Wheels. Triumph T595 Forks (45mm) Powder coated Frame, Engine Ported, Vapor blasted and painted. I will start posting photos of the build as it progresses 13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer RC1237V Posted January 9 Member Contributer Share Posted January 9 Looks good already, keep 'em coming! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted January 9 Member Contributer Share Posted January 9 Welcome to VFRD from across the North Sea. Been to Reading a couple of times in the late 80's early 90's for work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lastfleetadmiral Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 Triumph forks now mounted with custom made tube's and modified internals to suit the extra length. These forks are nice and chunky 45mm with full preload, rebound and damping adjustment. Now if anyone has standard forks on a RC 24 in could do with the measurement from the bottom of the frame were the bottom yoke meets the frame to the center of the wheel spindle as i should have taken this measurement to aid setting up the new front end 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lastfleetadmiral Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 The Triumph 675 wheel brake discs line up nicely with the calipers so no work needed there. I need to make a 28mm long spacer for the RH side of the front wheel (as your sat on the bike) as the T595 uses a speedo worm drive so no spacer this side and the 675 wheel does not. The T595 spacer on the RH side is 21mm long (it uses the spindle shaft to take up the other 7mm so i cant just use two of these (I'm putting on electronic instruments so no need for a speedo worm drive. Everything needs tweaking when putting none standard kit on anything so everything takes time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted January 27 Member Contributer Share Posted January 27 I really enjoy build threads... looking good, keep the photos coming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer bmart Posted January 28 Member Contributer Share Posted January 28 Love the frame and engine colors. Blue and black would go nicely with those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lastfleetadmiral Posted February 3 Author Share Posted February 3 Been busy today. I have built the short engine and mounted in in the frame. The gearchange Mechanism is a POS. and i wasted over 90 minutes trying to get the spring paw together and working all to no avail. Will look at it again tomorrow to see why i cant seem to make it work. Some pictures below showing todays activity 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lastfleetadmiral Posted February 3 Author Share Posted February 3 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lastfleetadmiral Posted February 11 Author Share Posted February 11 A bit more done yesterday. More of the engine assembled. Water pump is a mess and will take time to clean up. I have had to get new front discs are the 675 ones are 310mm and the T595 320mm. Lucky there is a kit for the 675 to upgrade the discs to 320mm so its a straight forward purchase but a lot of money. Still a couple of Brembo Discs mated to the 4 pot calipers should make it brake with vigor 🙂 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lastfleetadmiral Posted March 3 Author Share Posted March 3 A bit more done today. New clutch plates fitted with heavy duty springs. Cylinder heads fitted and the new exhaust headers attached. Rear headers a bit of a pig to get in, I has to put a jack under the engine and remove the top shock mounting bolt to get enough clearance to get the rear headers in place. one of the original exhaust studs I had to drill out but managed to tap 7mm and put in a 7mm to 6mm stepped stud. Next part of the build will to be attach the cams and get the timing sorted before the clutch cover goes on. At this point i will loop the oil cooler inlet and outlet so i can fill the engine with oil and spinning the starter motor check the oil pressure and gear selection before moving forward. Talking of gear selection the selector detent mechanism is a terrible design, I note changed on the 88/89 models to a better set up but not backward compatible. My detent spring is well past its best, they are only £2 but are obsolete stock so while i do have one on order with Dave Silver Spares I'm not sure i will recive it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lastfleetadmiral Posted March 3 Author Share Posted March 3 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Lorne Posted March 3 Member Contributer Share Posted March 3 Great work so far, looking forward to seeing your project completed. Wish I had shed to work on my own bikes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lastfleetadmiral Posted March 24 Author Share Posted March 24 A bit more completed today. The Engine is now fully built and timed up. Just waiting on fitting the oil cooler to spin it over on the starter motor with no spark plugs in to check oil pressure. Rear sub frame has been loosely mounted along with the rest of the exhaust. Big shout out to Gave Silver Spares who accepted an order for the gearchange detent spring an item they did not have in stock and listed as "No Longer Available" that the sourced and got to me in two weeks for £5.00 including postage. This was a show stopper as the old spring was so week that it was failing to push the paws home and so not changing gear smoothly. A Few more pictures of progress 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lastfleetadmiral Posted March 24 Author Share Posted March 24 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted March 24 Member Contributer Share Posted March 24 Looking so good!! Very cool. Loving it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted March 24 Member Contributer Share Posted March 24 Whats the plan for handlebars? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lastfleetadmiral Posted March 24 Author Share Posted March 24 Triumph T595 Handle bars. They mount under the top yoke but then rise above so will sit about 50mm lower than the Honda Bars. You can get a riser kit for the triumph bars that would get them very close to the Honda Height 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted March 24 Member Contributer Share Posted March 24 Those are cool bars, love the hinge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted March 24 Member Contributer Share Posted March 24 Hey looking great! Dude, those K&N filters with the welded nut on the end have a history of metal fatigue at the spot weld and cracking, then leaking. There's plenty of info on the net about it, and I am sure some members here have experienced it first hand. Plz consider an alternate. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lastfleetadmiral Posted March 31 Author Share Posted March 31 Got the carbs fitted and the new instruments in place along with the rear mudguard assembly. Now comes the hard part of wiring everything up. I need new oil cooler hoses as the ones that came with the bike have numerous pin holes in them that got exposed once the rust was removed. Part of me is thinking of bypassing the oil cooler as for £35 there is a bypass pipe available on line, however my gut tells me to retain the cooler and make new pipes as i very much doubt any 35 year old used hoses will be much better than the ones i have. Getting the carbs back on was simpler than i expected no doubt helped by the fact I replaced the rock hard original runner stubs with new ones. Can any one help with a measurement of the distance from the front wheel spindle to the underside of the bottom yoke. It needs measuring with the front wheel of the ground and no load 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lastfleetadmiral Posted April 4 Author Share Posted April 4 Instruments now powered up. Need to mount the magnets into the RH front disc bobbins so the sensor can pick up the rotation but its not going to be difficult. My biggest current pain is the oil cooler pipes that are completely shot. I need to find a solution to this that doesn't cost the earth and replaces with new items as every second hand set i have thus seen are understandably little better than the ones i have currently. Sometimes its easy to forget these bikes are approaching 40 years old. Now for a bit of a plug. I've just finished reading Matt Oxley book "Racing Hitler" If you don't know Matt he's a long Standing Motorcyclist Author. Its a great read about the quest for the Motorcycle speed record between the wars 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lastfleetadmiral Posted April 28 Author Share Posted April 28 Managed to get quite a lot done. Found a good oil cooler with very good pipes this has allowed me to fill the bike with oil and confirm oil pressure is good. Fitted the new radiator and finished wiring the new switchgear but in the process I think I fried the ECU by sending voltage through the clutch switch. I also modified some plug caps from aliexpress for a cbr600 to fitvthe vfr as you can see in the photos. Clutch slave cylinder is leaking badly so will replace with an aftermarket Oberon one 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lastfleetadmiral Posted April 28 Author Share Posted April 28 I have also got the speedo magnets into the disc bobbins nicely 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lastfleetadmiral Posted Sunday at 09:07 PM Author Share Posted Sunday at 09:07 PM Getting a spark issues: This information may be useful. So after a good twenty hours of head scratching thinking my modifications has messed up the ecu I have got to the bottom of the missing sparks. Every test I ran seemed to suggest that everything was good on the ignition circuit I have voltage at the coils with the ignition switched on and 13v voltage at the ecu. Belling the wires showed continuity. The only test that came back odd was the ohms on the pick up coils.and as my honda manual states 450 to 550 and as my return was 300 i went down the rabbit hole of thinking it was a pick up coil problem. As i was able to test a friend RC30 and this returned 450 I assumed this was the issue. Lucky for me this same friend builds RC30 engines from RC24 cases so had spare pick up coils and three sets all returned the same value as my bike. In the after checking I had not left the firing pin out of the spray clutch i cut into the ecu live wire and attached a directc12v supply and hey presto sparks. Now what's was the issue. when I was trying to start the bike I was getting a voltage collapse to the ecu. On stripping the loom I fould that at the point the feed from the kill switch splits into three feeds. Two for coils and one for the ecu water had entered the loom and corroded the connection. Stripping and soldering the connection solved the problem. So one for the books on working on a 35 year old bike. Your wiring loom may be compromised internally and it's real hard to diagnosis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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