Rice

If you are not too electrically challenged, you can do the following now or after issues begin. 1. Voltmeter, as everyone said 2. Cut plug and solder connections between your stator and RR 3. Add ground from RR directly to frame on one of RR mounting points 4. Cut and cap off the blue monitor wire (do search) and run a new one directly to the battery terminal. I have done steps 2 through 4 many years ago after my stator burned up and never had any issues since. Never even bothered to install the voltmeter 😉

I am definitely going. Will register shortly.

It’s only dangerous if you ride it, I guess. Will it kill you? Probably not. Why not get revalve? if you are looking at a shock swap, you must be riding at the limit of your OEM shock? The $400 bucks that he charges is the best money you can spend on your bike. Especially when coupled with thr fork upgrade.

Congrats Timmah!

Saw you going over 80 mph and in a turn at that... You are a very bad boy. VFRs are not supposed to do that.

I don't ride a lot. Never have, except for the time when I still considered commuting to work on a bike to be fun. So, my love for the sport is expressed during the annual trip to NC and 10-15 local rides. It's enough for me and I enjoy and value every ride.

looks good. Have more pictures of the whole bike? Also, how did you do it?

YESSS!!! It's alive! I'll be there. Can't wait.

I am part of these rides and couldn't recommend more. Good times always.

Hi All, I am facing a strange issue with my 93 and hoping that someone would be able to help. Symptom: Cylinder #3 is not working. Conditions: Spark is present Carb is a known to be running another 3rd gen w/o issues Timing is good on both front and rear banks with arrows aligned in opposite directions at T2 mark New starter clutch with correct numbers for 90-93 To me, it feels like the #3 cylinder is trying to fire out of sync with the firing order (if this makes sense), which creates knock and resistance to engine running. However, things don't improve much or at all if I disconnect the coil. Here is the video of it running at low RPM: And another at high RPM:

I feel your pain. I once dropped my 06 onto the door of my Lexus LS460. Didn't take pictures due to not wanting to ever be re-traumatized. This just proves my theory that garages are for bikes only.

One more thing to check before you go splitting the carbs are the carb overflow tubes. Two joined black tubes facing rear of the bike. If your floats are stuck or the fuel inlet plungers are gummed up, you will get quite a bit of fuel coming out of the two tubes. Run the bike with the tank lofted away and shine the light on the owerflow tubes to make sure that this is not the culprit.

Wanted to say ride it into the ground and swap the engine, but the only one I see on ebay is $2k. I would do the following: Do a leak-down and pressure test Pop the valve covers and inspect for obvious signs of ware on the cam lobes If no issues, ride it into the ground :)

ABS is one of the most robust systems out there. It works. I've always taken it on faith and have had several occasions to confirm it. If the ABS light is not on, it works.

I put on a set of Bridgestone T30 Evos during the 2nd day of the NC trip and WOW. I don't say that often. Just Wow. Never had so much confidence during hard riding. Anything I could through at them was absorbed without complaints in perfectly predictable manner. I cannot speak to the longevity, but they held up very well to 3 days of hard riding and look like they can carry me through another NC trip with ease. Previous B-stone S21s melted away in 2-3 fun days on me.

My vote is on suspension. for this money, you can get a nice rear shock, which is a good down payment on having a well-setup bike, which is a pleasure to ride and ride hard with confidence. Next step would be fork improvements (valves, springs) and finally taking it to a tuner to get set up for your weight and riding style. Pipes, PCs and other bling won't give you quite as much return on investment.

I would test the RR first and replace it if bad. Retest the Stator with engine off and on. Clean and tighten all grounds to the frame. Open, clean and dielectric grease all plug connectors. Add a ground wire from RR directly to frame at the RR mount point Solder Stator connections to the RR Do the Monitor Wire mod. I did this a number of years ago and never had another electrical issue since (knock on wood). Still running the original OEM RR. I did have to replace my stator at the time when I had same issue, but yours appears to be OK, so do check your RR.

I'd check your valves if I were you ;)

X-Ring chains have "X" cross-section of the O-Rings . Not sure whether there are any regular o-ring chains left on the market.

I always scrub them in and take it easy for the first 100 miles or so, regardless of whether it is really needed or not. It's cheaper than the alternative and doesn't hurt as much.

Great job! I love the simplicity of it. Doing a similar build now to get my son into the sport. P.S. Oil cooler - Will be interested in your experience with temps once it gets warmer. It would be nice if the cooler can be dropped w/o overheating.

I like it. Especially the amount of effort involved. Good job. Just don't add chrome or polished stuff. Keep it dark. Not that it matters in this case, but I wonder how much it weights and how it handles. In other words, is is comfortable to ride?

Registered, Booked, Locked and Loaded! Can't wait!

You might have something there. There are those tracking gizmos that allow to recover a stolen bike. Never seen one myself.

Alarm? Definitely not OEM.