Auspanglish

Hey there Vifferarians... trying my best at a schematic of your bypass harness, is the following basically what HS has done? Yeah, I know, the proportions are out of whack... that's just my lack of finess with photoshop... Just to resurrect a question from this thread... would it be possible to include some way to manually turn the fan off for that scenario when you're finally able to accelerate up to over 80 km/h but have been stuck in traffic for a while and the fan is running, since at those speeds the natural airflow would be competing with the fan's airflow and I've definitely noticed that when this occurs it can also take some time for things to cool down... and what I'm looking for is having her run as cool as possible as often as possible... would that involve perhaps another long section of cable upstream of the splice you've invented, with an in-line switch for cutting off the supply of power to the whole assembly... like this: Or is it just not worth it?

Yeah, Josh, great thread mate!! But I can't see Flat Stanley in the photos!! Hehehe. It's good to read this thread, my 2003 VTECker has some 60,000 km on the clock and I'm only just starting to hear the odd CCT noise on letting off the throttle after giving it lots of gas... "blipping the throttle" so to speak. I know the sound oh too well from an old 1971 Toyota Hiace I had way back when... must've changed the CCT 3 times... in one year.

Top stuff AB-Oz Here's mine: PB-257M Lapis blue metallic 2003 VFR800 VTEC. Spain.

OK, thanks guys...

43mm!!! :rolleyes: :fing02: ...we are talking about the same thing right? The fork pipes/tubes which the clip-ons clip onto up the top... the part which slides up and down inside the cartridges... the part which goes into the triple trees... right? Hmmm 43mm, so the clip-ons off a VTEC aren't a direct swap for a 4th gen... which I believe (with more certainty) are 41mm

Hi guys, been looking around on these front-end swap threads for the diamater of the front fork tubes on the VTECker... is it 41 or 42mm??? Anyone?? (I measured mine but I don't trust my caliper to be very accurate, 2-bob el-cheapo job... oh yeah and while I'm at it... what's the diamater on the 4th gen?? Thanks in advance.

Thoroughly enjoyed that read... O2 deprivation hahahaha

Theeeere's another one goooone to the dogs.... tune in next week when you'll hear Miss Piggy say...

Lose 10 Hp jajaja... good stuff there, not a bad match at all. Perhaps slightly more orangey than original... but near enough is good enough in this case... maybe I wouldn't even have noticed if I had seen the photo without the revealing text of the thread. IN photos of course, possibly more noticeable in the flesh (or in the metal!! hehe). I admire you DIYers.

Nice stuff!! As far as the front fairing hitting the lights when braking (nose-diving hehehe), in the picture they don't seem to poke further forward then the front edge of the oil cooler/radiator, and since then it would appear he's located then even further back, so... but do be sure to be sure and let us know. As far as the light shining up a nd annoying you, you could always run some duct tape along the top if you've no time to pull them off and paint the top of the lenses.

Firstly, my apologies to the mods if this isn't the right subforum for such a topic. Secondly, many thanks to those who encouraged me to get the job done and especially to Baileyrock for his helpful advice and comments, I must say, even if it will increase his hat size, that I was inspired by his trackbike reapir thread to finally go ahead and repair my 2003 Lapiz Metallic Blue VFR800FI VTECker. Overall the damages were very similar to his trackbike situation. Except of course, mine has all the road trim and accesories often stripped off trackbikes. In the end I saved 4,000 Euros buying secondhand and doing the labour myself (with the help of a mate, in his garage). Parts replaced: - Front forks, wheel and rotors. - Nosecone fairing, side fairings and headlights. - Front mudguard. . Rear brake pedal and assy. - Windscreen. - Bar end counterweights. - Rearview mirrors - Odds and ends. I took advantage of the fact that I had her stripped down to: - finally install the Powerlet 12V plug in the steering stem (thanks Tightwad). - install rear shockie off an ABS model with only 10,000 km compared to mine's 45,000 km. So now have remote preload adjuster!! Things I discovered mid-op but hadn't acquired parts to remedy: - RHS radiator has a ding, but is 100% functional. - Nosecone subframe is bent upward, just enough to make lining up fairings a little tricky and to have the headlights annoying oncoming traffic. - Gastank has a ding. Things I should have done while I was at it: - install the VTR fan, just as I have done on my 5th gen, but the part hadn't arrived (arrived the day after I finished the repair work, typical)... seeing as I'll be changing the radiator as soon as I find a secondhand one in good nick, I'll kill those two birds with one stone. - change out the side cover as, initially the rash was just aethetically displeasing, but some asshat knocked the bike on it's RHS some time AFTER the accident when I had it parked out the front waiting to transfer it over to my mate's garage. Consequently it has obviously creased a little, to the point where there is an almost imperceptible leak... just looks like a stain, it's not enough to worry over, but I will replace it so as not to tempt fate. The bike ride's like a dream. I also took advantage of the fact I was changing the forks out, to drop the front some 5 mm for easier corner entrance.. sweet. There's just one thing I've noticed, and I only noticed it towards the end of a 1200 km weekend this one just gone by, whilst the bike is leaned over in turns, I can sense (not "hear" moreso "feel", probably through my feet) a sort of crunching, as if the chain weren't lining up, or some bearings were gone bad... it doesn't do it when the bike is upright and if I hold in the clutch and swerve from side to side, I can't notice it while the bike is leaned over... any ideas??? Needless to say, with the help of lots of research, common sense, and the powers of the dark side and some homage to the MC Gods, I pulled it off in 1.5 days flat... now I'll finally have to decide whether to keep the 5th or the 6th gen... oh well, perhaps a little Ouigie board will help with that decision... Anywho... here's a pictorial of the resurrection: By the wayside, due to an error at one of my tyre suppliers', I was supplied with a 190 rear Metzeler Racetec... I had had it on the 5th gen and no worries, didn't notice the difference, but went to put it on the 6th gen and lo and behold, it rubbed so hard up against the swingarm (near the shock linkages) that it polished it smooth. Funny that, on the 5th gen there's still like more than 10 mm clearance... is the VTECker's wheelbase shorter or is it just laid out differently?

Hi CP; could you send us any photos, pleaseeeee? :fing02: Hey David... fancy seeing you here!!! I want to stick a switch on mine as well, in the same way, hopefully Combine Pilot can give us a run down for the electronically cchallenged...

Please explain how I can do this... but, explain for electronical idiots if you would be so kind...

Lets see the next step could involve anyone (or all of the following). 1 a second pusher fan moving air out the right side rad. 2 a set of ducts that will keep the heat from the headers and the engine block from 'pre-heating' the cooling air that get flows through the rads. 3 more efficient non honda fan blade. 4 a special ambient temperature sensitive black box to alter the engagement temp of the left fan. 5 custom radiators. ps do not forget the locktite in the gluestick form for the nut. I prefer Gold BondTM for my nuts... no seriously, are you referring to the nut holding the fan blade on? The problema with a second fan on the inside of the right-hand radiator is there is very little room in there, due to the eccentric positioning of the motor in the chassis... There is just a very squeezy bit of room for a 10 cm PC style fan on the forward lower corner of said radiator. Otherwise, you could do like a friend of mine and zip-tie two PC fans on the plastic mesh on the outside of the radiator. I did the same but noticed no difference whatsoever as a PC fan doesn't create much more airflow than a human fart. In the end I removed them as the mechanical benefits did not outweigh the eyesore factor... in the end I removed bothe black plastic meshes as mines a silver VFR and I like the way she looks more w/o them... I hope that doesn't cause any problems... they don't hold anything together do they? I figured they were just for protecting the delicate radiator fins. So, anyways, I now am the proud owner of a VTR fan blade, my question is... can you post up step-by-step instructions on how to install... I'm wondering if there are any shortcuts, or ways to avoid bleeding the coolant... any special things I should keep in mind besides the loctite? Thanks a million in advance...

I've ordered the helix at my local dealer's over here in southeastern Spain. we have had unseasonably cool weather up until this week. Last night at around 20.00 hours (it's daylight until 22.30) I was forced to ride through satellite townships of my (smallish) city, which has undergone rapid expansion. On the outskirts you can find yourself traversing one small town after another with no gaps, loads of traffic lights and only one lane per direction. The bike rapidly got up to 106ºC and the fan kicks in, entering into that vicious cycle whereby the fan's effectiveness is nullified by the natural airflow created by the forward movement of the bike. I spent half an hour "boiling my eggs" and worried that the electrical system was suffering (heat is it's enemy). My R/R kicked the bucket two summers ago under identical circumstances. On arriving at my destination, I left the bike running to see if it was capable of refrigerating the system whilst stopped (no antagonistic airflow). No way José... it stayed at 104ºC, it did not rise, but it did not drop. The fan was on for what seemed like an eternity and eventually cut out WITHOUT having dropped the temp to 96ºC which is when the thermoswitch is designed to cut it out. I guess that is a safety mechanism, designed to save the battery... I hope I didn't blow a fuse. I no longer give a stuff, I am willing to try the experiment... from what we've seen so far it certainly doesn't appear to be any worse at least. I'm willing to risk the paint peeling or the plastic deforming... I doubt very much that will happen as while your riding, hot air is being forced through from the inside out anyway, and besides, the front and rear edge of the radiators are sizzling hot and physically in extremely close proximity to the fairing... Stay tuned for the results...

In full agreement: for street riding, there is usually no need for hanging off the bike. Upper body lean, a little countersteering and perhaps a slight butt shuffle across should suffice. I believe however that the original enquiry was about the wobble when he does feel the need to hang off and is doing so through s-bends... I'm not condoning hooligan riding styles and knee-scraping in town or on commuting slabs... just addressing his enquiry in the purest sense of his uncertainties... if he is going to hang off... it's all in the legs. Both Jeremy and BR explain this in greater detail than I well before my post. We've all been on twisty mountain roads where hanging off is commonly practiced and most of you VFRD veterans can be seen doing so in the MC meet pics posted up around here... at least on the more spirited rides... this doesn't mean to say that we're all hot heads and squids, but occassionaly and in the right circumstances we like to test our metal... I for one have never put a knee down, never scraped a knee pad, 'cause I don't even have leathers... I have two textile suits.

Ditto on that your legs should be supporting the weight in these situations, if in the brief space and time you have ina switchback you're: 1. Lifting your weight off the seat 2. Shifting to the other side of the bike and planting your other cheek on the seat 3. Replacing the weight on said cheek. ...you will probably cause that wobbliness. It's all in the legs. If the transition from one corner to the next is less abrupt, you'll have plenty of time for the lazy man's version... otherwise... work those quadriceps!!! Emmm... the term "butt movements" has me feeling a little queezy... :laugh:

Dude that is one schweeeeet looking bike... top stuff!! I think these guys confused theri morning dose of ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) with the lysergic variety (Vitamin T). :goofy: Great riffs though!!