mello dude

I've been also curious on how thing are going for you sa1713....

-- Having trouble playing the vid

+1 on that.... You guys have been holding out on us... ---- I'm a geek foole, feed me.

Close to what I got....

Is there a photo build thread?

I decided to start almost over. I took the axle back out, wheel off, and pads out of the calipers. I bought a a dremel attachment kit ($11.50 on sale at Sears FYI) I bought high temp grease (Silaramic) Got out my buffing wheel. Every bolt that I took out got cleaned with the brass bruss on the threads and buffing wheel on the head. The slide pin from the calipers also got cleaned and buffed. I took a long brush attachment and cleaned off as much brake powder from the inside of the calipers as I could reach. Per the instructions of the grease I put it on the back of the pads, the groove for the front of the pads, and of course the slide pin. And still it rubbed. Off comes the wheel. I grease the axle and double checked my spacers were on the correct side. (I will definitely want to paint that red like mello dude.) I Follow the reinstallation instructions to the letter. Tighten everything up the way it was supposed to be and sit in front of the wheel... I grab the tire and spin! It's still spinning... still spinning... still spinning! And no shish shish shish! Mello nailed it. I believe that I tightened the pinch bolts at the same time and didn't seat the pads until the very last step. Oh, and the tire was on the ground... just an all around poor job the first time. So I wheel out my lady and get my gear on for the first ride since June 15th. (long story). Feels so good! wait a minute... whats that sensation? Damn thing wobbles on deceleration between 55-45 mph! I think the front tire is not balanced correctly. Shit. I have to take the wheel off again! Screw it, I am buying Dynabeads and calling it done! Thanks everyone for all the great help. My wife came out to help for a moment and she pointed out something to me. A year ago - seriously, only 1 year ago - I wouldn't even change the oil in my car. I have had the front end apart on this thing, the back end, read books and manuals, and spent a small fortune on tools and farkles. Ain't love strange? http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/75265-dyna-beads-wtf/ - Tire rotating forward in the correct direction? sry

Tomorrow I will pull the front wheel off again and take the rotors off again and check and see if I need to dremel sand the rotor mounting spots. The rotor mount area on the wheel is a machined surface, and it's probly not a good idea to hit it with a Dremel. -Veefer got me curious, and the service manual mentions the clearance between the caliper brackets and the rotor at 7mm min. -Where on the caliper is the rotor hitting? Having a brain fart on picturing it. PIc? - Do you have the left and right collars in the wheel mixed up? Remember I painted the right one red? - The wheel mounting procedure is important to follow, tighten the left side pinch bolts first, there could be clearance problems if you do it wrong. - Um, really dont like to debug by forum, I'm more a see it, touch it, smell it guy to figure stuff out.

The whole bike is put together with a ton of 6mm x 1.0 bolts. Get familiar with the Lowes hardware as they have a good selection of Grade 8.8 and 10.8 metric fasteners that will work out for non critical mount up stuff. Beats buying at the stealership or online all the time. Of course, sometimes there is no choice but to use OEM.

---- Would love to see a photo of a bare bones 5th gen engine with the attempt to mount in the bare bones 6th frame.

Its a 4th gen....

My VFR manual specs out 8k intervals for changing the oil, my Ducati specs out 7.5k miles. Seen BMW cars with something like 16k mile oil change intervals. Heck some cars (corvettes for one) don't even have mileage recommendations, they have an oil change light that turns on depending on a whole host of programmed conditions. Why not go with what the manufacturer calls for? Lots of people are under the impression that the engineers get to write the specifications to the letter that they want and believe is correct. Well, in a large corporation, quite often, that is only partially true. Some corps, it is a policy from the top, that they want to promote the appearance that they are Pro Green policy. Honda is big on this. So, what happens quite often is that marketing gets its orders and they have to take that and wrestle with the engineers to agree on a balance of policy and the balance of technical reality. So here, specing out a 8k interval may be totally possible, and some have demontrated it, as a company promoting long intervals seems to be a pro green, environmental help the earth thing and that is good PR for the manufacturer. But assuming 8k interval fits everybodys situation? Probably not true. (Why Blackstone gets business.) As an automotive engineer, I have been in quite a few situations that marketing insists that we have to change something for a policy or a cost issue. - Engineer says I need $25 to do this right, marketing come back and demands you only get $20. So your stuck and have to lowball components to put it together. Ad nausem. (sucks) - I'm guessing this happened to VFR wire harnesses.

Ive looked at a few of these Blackstone reports, and they strike me as an engine health report more than an oil report. Yes, they do the analysis of the elements in the oil. But are they saying the sample is acceptable and can run farther, longer? Are they saying you can run another 4000 miles? - Interpretation is key. What do you guys think?

Looks good! Damn thats a clean 5th gen!

Wow, fantastic! That's some impressive work.

Wow, that's pretty cool. Give us a riding report after you've been riding it awhile.