The Phantom

YAY ROB! :thumbsup: It's a piece of cake, just get some aluminium sheet and go for it! Or, go with Plan B, a pair of high left/right cans like RC51 :salesman:

Another pic: border='0' alt='user posted image' /> Img_0719.jpg

My data is not for a Gen 5, but I can't imagine it could be too different. I got a pair of Wolf canisters, a riser-Y pipe, and the rear mounting bracket and licence plate bracket when I picked up my system - no undertray included. The understanding that I have is that what Wolf provided was fairly basic anyway. I just decided to make a new inner fender, and I started by making cardboard templates (apologies for the pic quality, taken on a phone camera a few years back): border='0' alt='user posted image' /> templates.jpg From these, I cut sheet aluminium to the templates, and bent it to suit, then had an OzVFR mate tee up a former colleague who was handy at welding aluminium: border='0' alt='user posted image' /> alloy undertray.jpg As the upper rails kink in towards each other where they mount to the main frame, I had to put a fold in each side and bend it in slightly, so the front-most face of the box is actually trapezoidal in shape. This makes it really easy to drop the box out of the subframe, so it was a worthwhile mod. The shape of the rear section that goes over the top of the canisters was dictated by the height of the canisters, and the crossbrace that sits under the pillion seat. The 'sunken' part over the riser pipe is so that the original seat lugs that slip inside the frame rails and prevent lateral movement could remain; I couldn't be bothered working out a different way to address this although it ended up being a fair bit of work. I made a CF cover for the riser pipes which is to be riveted in place. The oblique shape of the cut-out is because the y-pipe is offset, the 5th Gen Wolf riser was more symmetrical. Because of the size of the battery box, the rear pair of coils had to be relocated to the side of the bike - this was simply a mistake I made by not planning well enough. And even though the box is bigger, it's still not big enough to provide practical storage, it will only fit a battery, a toolkit and a puncture kit - I'd make it even bigger next time around (as if that's going to happen). As far as ride height goes - I cut the rear subframe gusset under the seat lock to allow the canisters to sit about 20mm higher - this meant that they sat a bit closer to the front of the bike (i.e. the rake of the riser pipe was decreased). I then flipped my eccentric, but this isn't an option for you Although you only have 6" clearance ATM, once the plastic inner fender is out you should find you can get the canisters closer to the seat. Then you'll probably have to rely on a shimmed shock to get any additional clearance you require. At 3.25" dia, your canisters will help a lot, and if the Gen 5 subframe rails are 8" apart like on the Gen 4, you should be able to get them fitted with a 1.5" gap between them which will further aid clearance. The Wolf cans are 4" diameter, I had to use a hydraulic jack to spread the frame rails by 0.25" to give enough clearance for my inner fender. The seat needed to have some plastic trimmed away to clear the new inner fender when the seat is being slid into place. I've also covered the underside with adhesive insulative foil.

Joe, The Evo Star is a relatively recent addition. People have been reporting great results from the original kit without the star for years.

Yep, same from 90-97.

Well I think I will - have always been interested in the Factory shift kit, and the Star wheel makes it that much better again. As has been mentioned, shifting is something that you're always doing, so you might as well enjoy it more.

Great write-up and a good front-page feature. Thanks JetPilot, Trace, and HS. Why not just mod the OEM star to replicate the Evo Star? Always looking for something to Dremel :lol:

I wouldn't have expected anything less. The bike just looks better and better, lovely work.

Wow I was right, this really did turn into an oil filter thread!

Goodie, an oil filter thread :beer: I have used the Yamaha filter for some time, ever since I saw this post to the big list back in 2000.

Too late now, but perhaps it would be worth putting a low-key "www.vfrdiscussion.com" decal on the bike somewhere?

Way cool, Rick :thumbsup:

Very smooth, Magellan. Two suggestions: 1. Lose the left peg feeler (or find the right-hand one) 2. Lube the chain : )

(Sorry late response - some crazy pagan festival came along and kept me offline for a few weeks) It's pretty cool, although it appears that the Goat buyers want something a bit wilder. Holden has just cut production of the Monaro so I guess Pontiac didn't sell enough of them... There was also an AWD version available here which was a bit of fun, if a bit on the heavy side. The sedan and ute continue, and the sports models are getting the 6 litre motor now :thumbsup:

Nice mod and write-up Trace. I'll get one for my bike and follow your tips for the install. I agree with your points regarding the pros of a shift light; my guess is that if you need to ask why? then you don't need a shift light... I remember running my 383 Chev down the quarter 15 years ago, one hand on the Mr Gasket shifter (LEFT hand of course! :P ), just waiting for that light to go off so I could shift the Top Loader up a gear and nail it again :thumbsup: On the bike (yeah yeah I know it's been a while, sit down Ian) I love drowning in the noise the donk makes at 10k+, but at those revs I find that there's usually an apex to concentrate on - if not another bike also going just as hard. A little flash will work nicely for me.