Grum

Yeah, as mentioned first up! load check your Battery!! Then buy yourself a multimeter, you can't properly work on bike electrics without one And knowing how to use it! TIP - First thing, with any electrical issue ALWAYS verify the health of the Battery no matter how old or new, and make sure the terminals are clean and tight.

That's why I mentioned it. I've never used the high position but could see yours doesn't seem to look right. Refer to you Owners Booklet regarding the seat height and as mentioned make sure the height setting collars are fitted when using the High position. If the collars are not fitted and the front is located in the high stay you could be stressing the seat structure.

Yep as Thumbs mentioned left side white circled switch.

If you purchased from a dealer perhaps they could contact the previous owner, the original items are probably of no use to him. The disc rotors look like the EBC brand. Do a Google search, you'll see. Once again, if the bike has the H.I.S.S system its important you have two keys as they have an embedded Transponder chip that comunicates with the ECM, if the correct code is not read at Ignition Switch ON = No Engine Start. If you loose the one remaning key, or it's Transponder Chip fails, you could be in for an expensive and inconvenient situation. If you ONLY have the one key then get a new Transponder Key Blank cut and then programme it to your ECM. The Service Manual (VFR800F/VFR800X) Downloadable from the forum explains this, or take the bike to a good Honda dealership and they can do the process for you, for a fee of course!!

Very strange that the Heated Grips which should be there are missing!! I've heard that running them at level 5 for long periods have caused the grip rubber to degrade in some instances. Noticed there's lots of aftermaket changes and additions. Curious as to why the front disc rotors are not OEM? - Did you get the separate pillion seat and handles? - Two keys? Especially if your bike has the H.I.S.S system. - Tool kit under the seat? - Owners manual? - Were you supplied with the OEM Screen and Exhaust? - Looks like the seat is set to the high position, check that the two seat height raising collars have been installed. Unless you have records that the Brake and Clutch fluid have been replaced recently then replace and flush the fluid, an easy job on an 8gen. Coolant, if no replacement record should be done as well. Enjoy the 8gen.

When you say the battery is good, how old is it? And have you had it load checked? Assume you have verified the Main Fuse A 30amp in the Starter Relay is good? Check for any burnt or overheated stress signs on the fuse itself and that it fits snugly into its leg sockets. Do you have the wiring diagram for your bike and do you have a multimeter? Make sure the connector plug to the Starter Relay has no sign of overheated, burnt or high resistance joints especially for the Red wire and Red/White wire. Suggest as a starting point you measure the 12v feeding your fuses in the fuse box and work back from that, If the 12v for the fuses is absent follow the Red/Black wire back to the Ignition Switch. The Ignition switch (when On) joins the incoming 12v from the battery (via Main Fuse A 30amp) on the Red wire to the Red/Black wire which then feeds 12v to your sub fuses within the fuse box. If needed follow this voltage back to the battery on the Red wire? Somewhere between the battery and your fuse box is where you appear to have lost 12v.

Hi Mowhawk. Would seem to be an impossibility that the engine could run with both Ignition and Kill switches to Off. Discounting any strange wiring mods! His mention of..."I replaced the battery as I was attaching the wires to the battery it was refusing to turn off I had a little Google and I tapped the solenoid with the rubber bit of a screwdriver, it went back to normal" This made me think he was referring to the Starter Motor, with the possibility of a sticking solenoid or a wiring short. Until we get some better details from the OP it all sounds a little vague to me. Cheers.

Bit more info.... Are you saying the Starter Motor wont turn off? Or are you saying the engine continues to run with Ignition Off, Kill Switch Off, and can't be turned off? Are there any wiring modifications? If its a Starter Motor issue.... With a multimeter set it to Buzzer or lowest ohms range. With the red plug removed from the Relay, and Ignition to Off. Probe the Red wire and the Yellow/red wire spade connectors of the plug (not at the relay) flex the lead and make sure you see No Continuity or Buzz. Any intermittent buzz or continuity means you have a short.

Hi Skids. Excellent advice already there for you. Just to add one more for a snippet of info. Any damage to the Molybdenum butterfly seal coating, will cause additional bypass air resulting in high uncontrollable idle. Bottom line is the main cause of Hi Idle is either the Wax Unit (or blocked coolant flow through it as mentioned), additional air into the throttle bodies (vaccumm hoses, throttle body mounting boots) or perhaps a dud TPS or ECT signal. Assume you don't have any Fi Flashing Codes. Terry raises a good key point here, if your idle very slowly returns to normal just relying on engine temperature heat soaking the WU then that is a good sign coolant flow through WU could be restricted or blocked, this could be within the WU itself or the hoses. Cheers.

Assuming the Starter Relay wiring is similar to the VFR. Remove the Red Starter Relay electrical connector and undo some of the insulation tape. Check for a Red wire to Yellow/red wire short. Refer attached picture. Take a look at the Starter Circuit wiring diagram attached, you'll see if this short happens your Starter Relay Coil will energize permanently until you either disconnect the Battery or remove Main Fuse A 30amp, housed in the Starter Relay. Once you have sorted I would Definetly replace the Starter Relay just on spec as it would have taken a beating, I hope the Starter Motor has survived the ordeal.!!

Mate. Don't forget that beneath the nice glossy paintwork and fairings, it's just another 6gen, nothing special or different behind it's fancy dress. I had the same feelings about my own RWB, a lovely bike, but the 8gen has blown all those cares away. Pictured (Dec 2007) - My buddy and his sexy 2006 Black. I fiited some nice Staintune exhausts to both bikes, they look and sound great. The white wheels, especially on your 8gen, look great. Don't regret it, move on. Seriously, the 8gen is a far superior bike, IMO. Still think a nice aftermarket exhaust will further add to your bikes good looks and of course that delightful 90deg V4 sound. Cheers.

Getting your warm engine idle back to 1200rpm will make a big difference. I guess I wouldn't trust any CHP service dept. used to working on Harley Electra Glides to work on a VFR! Change your clutch technique....From a stationary position going from neutral to in gear with some vague partial pull in of the clutch is a BAD technique!!! If you use all fingers on the clutch and pull it in fully this is the best option. You will minimize the chance of a forward jolt when going from neutral to in gear, minimize clutch drag and clutch wear as you were probably within the friction zone, lessen any load on the engine possibly keeping it cooler while stationary, and the launch assit function should work well and consistently from the fully pulled in position. However once on the move can revert to any clutch method you like! Be wary, some aftemarket levers don't trigger the clutch switch properly and have caused issues. I trust you have NO problems with In Gear engine starting Sidestand Up. This is another indication that the clutch switch is working......or not. Personally I have no issues with the launch assit function, it's bearly noticeable and works well. I've not seen or heard a bad report about it, mostly it's owners just observing that it's there and curious about the rpm increase on clutch release in gear.

Yep you've got yourself a super reliable vfr a joy to ride. What's the history, how many miles/k's ? And as Presson states, fire away with any questions, we are all here to help. Good luck with the purchase. And welcome 8gen owner.

Firstly, make sure your warm engine idle is set to 1200rpm. The idle speed adjustment knob is just forward and above the clutch slave cylinder. And yes, there is the launch assit function that increases rpm with clutch release when in gear. With a warm engine this is approximately 250rpm, with a cold engine it can be higher. Under normal conditions the function should be almost unnoticeable. Might also be worth confirming the clutch switch operation (both electrically and mechanically) you need to be sure that with clutch pulled in you hear the switch click well before the handlebar. Just checked my 8gen and this happens at around 60% of lever travel, clutch lever setting at 4. Perhaps it's your clutch technique of not pulling the clutch lever in far enough to activate the clutch switch? For a few good reasons, clutch should be fully pulled in from a stationary start!

Your last statement sounds like it's returned to normal ops. The ABS system is critical on good battery voltage, so just check the state of your battery and clean tight battery terminals, any doubts about the battery, have it load checked. Have you downloaded the Service Manual? If not you can download it from this forum. Section 16 ABS tells you all about it. Like the ECM the ABS has its own diagnostic error codes. Good luck hope this helps.

Followed Philois1984's idea and had the same job done by Officeworks, really happy with the results especially for a garage pic. Not far off 100,000k's of faultless smile inducing riding with the 8gen, definitely the best of the four VFR's I've owned, by a long shot. Thanks again to VFR80025th and Terry for the poster arrangement. Cheers All.

My Bad .....Sorry Mohawk misread left and right as looking at picture and drawing relative to the wax unit. Like your idea of reverting to a cable choke for a 5gen, Less clutter under the TB's and one thing less to give you problems.

Hi Mohawk. I think the hose positions are opposite to what you've described. Looking at the drawing and the OP's picture, both are oriented the same. So looking at the left or forward hose connection at the wax unit the drawing shows that going to the T/Stat housing (outflow). The right or rear hose (inflow) goes to the "left side V of the engine". Not sure whether the flow direction through the wax unit is critical, but best to have flow per the drawing I guess.

Yikes Dutchy, what is all that white stuff??

Many Thanks VFR80025th and Terry. A large print in the garage is going to look great. Picture size of the file looks like it will match nicely to A2 format = 594mm X 420mm Cheers.

Kon'nichiwa ogenkidesuka Phil. Excellent stay stay stay!!!. Tell them you'll take it for a ride to give it some good exercise, explain that this would be extremely beneficial for the bike.

Agree, good points you raise Terry. Cheers.

Agree with bmart. Is it really worth the effort going with a non genuine item for maybe a once in a lifetime replacement? Also considering its a pain in the arse job, why not be confident in knowing you've fitted exactly the right one and only needing to do the job Once? Simply drilling bypass holes in a non genuine T/Stat doesn't sound like a good plan just to save a couple of bucks. Both 5th AND 6gens use the same T/Stat P/No. 19300-MBG-003 listed as $43.45 on Partzilla. Should be plenty of stock around. Love a 5th gen in Yellow - Looks a gem.

Magic looking 5th gen Terry. Very Nice shot. Cheers